Hi all,
I have just acquired an 84 fj1100 for 2x cases of beer and the deal included a husqvarna 250wr! The husky is running and riding, however the fj runs and idles but it's got a pretty sticky throttle and isn't very responsive (slow to drop back down after revving).
I really would rather not take carbies apart if I need so I was going to spray some carbie cleaner down the throat and hope that clears everything out and makes things slide again (bike has sat for about 3 years with fuel in it)
How the hell do you get out the air box so you can spray the cleaner straight down the carbies??
Any help is appreciated!
Craig
G'day Craig, if you're going to the trouble to remove your air box, do yourself a favour and give the carbs a proper clean while you have that bastard air box off. There are two 17mm bolts ( one either side) that secure the rear subframe to the main frame, remove them, this allows you to tilt the subframe out of the way enough to pull the air box out. There are carbie cleaning instructions in the Files section on the main menu page of the Forum. Follow these instructions closely, to save yourself from doing the job again if you don't.
Removing the air box is easy compared to installing it. You will soon learn why most of us use the Unifilter pods.
Good luck, it's a job worth doing as you will discover when you get the FJ up and running properly.
Regards, Pete.
Since the bike was effectively free, I'm keen just to see if I can get it running relatively smoothly before spending money on it (carby rebuild kits, seals).
Call me optimistic but I'm kinda hoping I can spray some carby cleaner down the throttle body and suddenly it runs well :good: I know that isn't probably going to happen but it's worth a shot. How much play does the air box have? Is there enough to disconnect the carbs from the box and get the hose of the spray carby cleaner into the throat?
Thanks for the prompt response!
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 06:06:06 AM
Is there enough to disconnect the carbs from the box and get the hose of the spray carby cleaner into the throat?
Thanks for the prompt response!
If that's all you want to do, pull the air filter out of the air box to get access to the carb intakes via the filter boots.
I really don't think you are going to achieve anything by spraying into the carb bodies but give it a go. Most of the blockages and gunk builds up in the float bowls (pilot jet main jet etc) Good luck.
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 05:33:51 AM
I have just acquired an 84 fj1100 for 2x cases of beer and the deal included a husqvarna 250wr!
Helluva deal. :good2:
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 05:33:51 AM
I really would rather not take carbies apart if I need so I was going to spray some carbie cleaner down the throat and hope that clears everything out and makes things slide again (bike has sat for about 3 years with fuel in it)
Wish in one hand, sh*t in the other, see which fills up first. :blum1:
Sorry, no amount of hope is going to help you. Spraying down the carb throat is pretty much guaranteed to not clean anything that's important. It's a waste of time and carb cleaner.
You need to take them apart to give them a proper cleaning. No way around it.
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 05:33:51 AM
How the hell do you get out the air box so you can spray the cleaner straight down the carbies??
Some people have an idea that it's hard, for some reason. Don't believe them. FJ is one of the easiest bikes to pull the airbox on that I have ever seen.
0. Make sure bike is on the center stand.
1. Take off the seat, side panels, and tank.
2. Loosen the clamps holding airbox boots to carbs
3. Remove the three small airbox mounting bolts.
4. Take out the air filter - 3 Philips screws on the side hold the airbox cover.
5. Remove the two large bolts holding the subframe to main frame. Use a flat screwdriver to bend back the vibration clip tabs.
6. Tilt the frame back and wangle out the airbox. Watch for the vent hose on the front of it. It will probably pop off while you mess with it.
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 06:06:06 AM
Since the bike was effectively free, I'm keen just to see if I can get it running relatively smoothly before spending money on it (carby rebuild kits, seals).
You can give carbs a clean without replacing anything. Just be careful to not mess up bowl gaskets. You have to at least pull and clean the emulsion tubes to have a positive effect.
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 06:06:06 AM
Call me optimistic but I'm kinda hoping I can spray some carby cleaner down the throttle body and suddenly it runs well :good:
You're optimistic. Optimism is what keeps prisons full.
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 06:06:06 AM
I know that isn't probably going to happen but it's worth a shot.
It isn't worth a shot. Nothing probable about it - it's not going to happen. Period, full stop.
It's your money and your time, you want to waste it, it's your call, but I would advise against it.
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 06:06:06 AM
How much play does the air box have? Is there enough to disconnect the carbs from the box and get the hose of the spray carby cleaner into the throat?
It's two bolts between loosening and removing it. These gymnastics are completely not worth it.
Seriously, there are no shortcuts to getting an old bike running.
QuoteSeriously, there are no shortcuts to getting an old bike running.
That should be a sig line.
To paraphrase something I remember from 15 years ago, when I was on the EX500 list:
Newbie: It still doesn't run right. I don't know why, I cleaned the carbs except for down inside all the little holes.
FOG: The only important parts to clean are down inside all the little holes.
Geez you blokes know how to make a guy feel welcome........... :empathy3:
Looks like removing the carbies is the only/correct option. I have printed that carb removal guide as well as the illustrated one (I'm more of a picture book kinda guy) so we will see how we go......
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 03:03:54 PM
Geez you blokes know how to make a guy feel welcome........... :empathy3:
It's just that you are yet another seeker in a VERY long line of folks looking for a quick solution to this. Would hate to see ya disappointed. :yes:
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 03:03:54 PM
Looks like removing the carbies is the only/correct option. I have printed that carb removal guide as well as the illustrated one (I'm more of a picture book kinda guy) so we will see how we go......
:i_am_so_happy:
Good plan.
Craig, we may seem (at first) to be a bit harsh, but please understand the advice you are being given is advice based on trying to do things the easy way, only to end up disappointed....We are trying to keep you from doing the same mistakes we have done.
It's the old Chinese proverb: A smart man learns from his mistakes, but a wise man learns from the mistakes of others.
Carb 101: Half measures will avail you nothing.
Cheers laddie, and welcome!
Pat
or another note......
anyone want to buy a 1984 FJ1100.....idles, but could probably do we a carby clean :rofl2:
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e191/Dudleymini/IMG_2263.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/Dudleymini/media/IMG_2263.jpg.html)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 10, 2017, 03:48:12 PM
Craig, we may seem (at first) to be a bit harsh, but please understand the advice you are being given is advice based on trying to do things the easy way, only to end up disappointed....We are trying to keep you from doing the same mistakes we have done.
It's the old Chinese proverb: A smart man learns from his mistakes, but a wise man learns from the mistakes of others.
Carb 101: Half measures will avail you nothing.
Cheers laddie, and welcome!
Pat
it's all good, to be honest it was probably what I expected to hear.......lets just hope i don't balls it up :wacko3:
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 03:51:06 PM
or another note......
anyone want to buy a 1984 FJ1100.....idles, but could probably do we a carby clean :rofl2:
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e191/Dudleymini/IMG_2263.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/Dudleymini/media/IMG_2263.jpg.html)
I'd give you four cases of beer, double what you paid for it, but something tells me we are nowhere near being close geographically. :wacko2:
I have a bike I got for free, but it came in five crates. I never get nice stuff that cheap...
You're not wrong......I jsut updated my profile but I not sure the postage would offset the cases of beer :lol:
This is the Husqvarna 1980 250WR chook chaser that was also included
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e191/Dudleymini/IMG_2266.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/Dudleymini/media/IMG_2266.jpg.html)
I know this is starting to deviate from the original topic, as well as being an incredibly newbie question to ask but as im sure you have guessed I literally know nothing about these bikes..
am I meant to use some sort of fuel additive when filling up that tank, or were this bikes designed to use unleaded fuel??
Thanks again for all the help
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 04:37:54 PM
am I meant to use some sort of fuel additive when filling up that tank, or were this bikes designed to use unleaded fuel??
Everything has been using unleaded fuel since about the early 1980s.
FJ needs no special additives. Non-ethanol is better, but you can go with plain old Regular from the cheapest pump at the filling station.
Quote from: JPaganel on February 10, 2017, 03:57:48 PM
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 03:51:06 PM
or another note......
anyone want to buy a 1984 FJ1100.....idles, but could probably do we a carby clean :rofl2:
I'd give you four cases of beer, double what you paid for it, but something tells me we are nowhere near being close geographically. :wacko2:
I have a bike I got for free, but it came in five crates. I never get nice stuff that cheap...
I'll up the ante to five cases of beer and a bottle of JD and I'll drop them around to you when I come to pick up the bike!
My fuel bowls looked like this, imagine what the rest looked like, it wouldn't start.
Quote from: oldktmdude on February 10, 2017, 05:58:46 AM
G'day Craig, if you're going to the trouble to remove your air box, do yourself a favour and give the carbs a proper clean while you have that bastard air box off. There are two 17mm bolts ( one either side) that secure the rear subframe to the main frame, remove them, this allows you to tilt the subframe out of the way enough to pull the air box out. There are carbie cleaning instructions in the Files section on the main menu page of the Forum. Follow these instructions closely, to save yourself from doing the job again if you don't.
Removing the air box is easy compared to installing it. You will soon learn why most of us use the Unifilter pods.
Good luck, it's a job worth doing as you will discover when you get the FJ up and running properly.
Regards, Pete.
These are the bolts Pete was talking about and make sure it's on the centre stand (so you don't damage my bikes carbies) (by the way what beer do you drink?)
And as Pete and everyone else has said "do yourself a favour"
I have succumbed to peer pressure (its like high school all over again)........ :good2:
I am going to be taking the carbies off and giving them a bath, my reluctance was due to the fact I have only ever taken apart 2-stroke carbies, but with the guides from this site and a VERY rough idea of carbies I'm sure I will be able to stumble through it!
At the moment I'm planning on keeping it, Australia (NSW) has a "club" rego scheme where it only costs $50 to register your bike and you can ride it on club events and up to 60 times a year whenever you want. Its a really cheap way of running cars/bikes that are older than 30 years old. Having a little fella and another one on the way, this is a really cheap way to keep playing with and riding bikes.
See the files section....there is complete tutorial for FJ carbs
I have previously printed off the PDF and found the illustrated carby thread which both look to be very helpful.......now its just suck it and see.
No Worries Mate, she'll be right,
Been exactly where you are now and mines still going and mine were absolutely filthy.
Make sure you've got some good screwies so you don't stuff the screw heads and jets
Quote from: Sparky84 on February 11, 2017, 12:26:26 AM
Quote from: JPaganel on February 10, 2017, 03:57:48 PM
Quote from: cahop on February 10, 2017, 03:51:06 PM
or another note......
anyone want to buy a 1984 FJ1100.....idles, but could probably do we a carby clean :rofl2:
I'd give you four cases of beer, double what you paid for it, but something tells me we are nowhere near being close geographically. :wacko2:
I have a bike I got for free, but it came in five crates. I never get nice stuff that cheap...
I'll up the ante to five cases of beer and a bottle of JD and I'll drop them around to you when I come to pick up the bike!
My fuel bowls looked like this, imagine what the rest looked like, it wouldn't start.
Sparky84, did it run ok after the carby clean up? did you run into many other issues?
It ran ok, made it to mechanic to get blue slip but it wasn't idling too good, had to give it a bit to get going.
In my haste I didn't give the idle circuit a good enough clean out!
But that was my fault, no air compressor just a bike pump and just wanted to get a few rides in.
I pulled them apart again and did a thorough cleanout with a mates compressor.
Running sweet now and no real other issues, didnt even need to change any gaskets. Been on the dyno with no problems.
Just made sure I didn't stuff any screw heads or the gasket on the fuel bowl.
Had 4 containers labelled and placed all bits of carbs in each so I didn't mix them up.
Just take care
Quote from: Sparky84 on February 13, 2017, 09:19:45 PM
Had 4 containers labelled and placed all bits of carbs in each so I didn't mix them up.
I use egg cartons. They are great to keep small bits from rolling around. :good2:
So peer pressure has worked, carbies are out of the bike. 3 of the plungers were stuck fast. Was kind of reassuring finding them stuck, I would have been concerned if they were all operating perfectly.
Now to the dismantling!
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e191/Dudleymini/A81EC0D0-A36B-47D4-979E-A5A3B21C6EA5.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e191/Dudleymini/9522BF27-1DD8-4F77-97EA-EC6AB62365F1.jpg)
Hi Craig
Isn't it good to find something wrong after all that hard work and a little spray wouldn't done jack.
Nice egg carton, is that free range or a cage carton?
At present it looks like your numbering is arse up but it doesn't matter, as long as you know which one is your one and not the other one
Cheers
Funny you mention the numbers being arse about, as I did them I spent a little bit of time trying to come up with the correct order.......then thought bugger it I'll just take a photo with the numbers showing and the orientation of the carbs and that will ensure I have a good reference.
Yeah was good to know that the spray wouldn't have worked.....as you said means the extra work was worth it.
I didn't have any carby cleaner apart on me today, so I was just using WD40.......any huge issue with that??
Quote from: cahop on February 27, 2017, 02:48:36 AM
I didn't have any carby cleaner apart on me today, so I was just using WD40.......any huge issue with that??
WD40 is mostly kerosene; it won't clean your carbs. But it won't hurt anything.
having never used carby cleaner..... :flag_of_truce:...........do i just spray it on the jets once they have been removed and down all the holes/channels?
I read the Carburetor cleaning guide, but just double checking, once i have removed the main jet screw and the o-washer I'm just meant to push out the emulsion tube? and this is done from the side with the float bowl.
Quote from: cahop on February 27, 2017, 07:50:29 PM
... and this is done from the side with the float bowl.
Yes, I think you are saying that you push the tube out from the float bowl side....just to be sure:
With the slides removed, and the main jet and washer removed, turn the carb body upside down (so the float bowl faces up) the emulsion tube (aka needle jet) exits from the slide area (now pointing down). Put a towel down, the e-tube should just drop on to the towel. If it's gummed up you can get a small wood dowel and push it out.
Once it's out, take a look at all the small holes on the sides of the e-tube. Make sure they are clean and clear. Hold the tube up to a light and rotate the tube, you should see light shining thru all the holes. When cleaning, don't damage (or enlarge) the holes in the brass e-tube.
Cheers
Pat
So an update................it runs :yahoo:........................like a tractor :Facepalm:
I cleaned up the bottom end of the carbies, but for the life of me I was unable to get the top of the carbies off to take out the plunger, those screws are stuck! I got about 50% out using the tap the screw drive with the hammer trick but I rounded two screws and one was already rounded so looks like someone has had a stab at this in the past.
I was surprised just how fast i had the carbies back in the bike and the bike running.....took all of about 15mins! So now it runs (not smooth, but idles and revs) going to take the carbies out again and have a stab at getting the screws on the top of the carbies undone. I'm thinking vice-grips on the side of the screw head is the next option.
Also going to take out the spark plugs and give them a clean.
Now off to buy a battery so I don't have to keep running it off the battery pack I have.
Just because I know people love videos, tonight I will upload the one I took last night just after I had started it
Yep, you gotta get those top screws off to get the slide and needle out....only then can you get the emulsion tubes out...you must clean those.
Slot the screw heads with a Dermel and use a big ass flat blade screw driver (with a square shank) and a Cresent wrench to get them out.
Do not use any heat, you will melt your diaphragm rubbers...
Plan on replacing all the soft JIS screws with ss allen head cap screws, available at your local hardware store or at RPM
as promised the video.............I'm no Hollywood director but you get the idea
https://youtu.be/tBixLfuDhXA
Carbs can be fun eh? As Pat mentioned the emulsion tubes etc really need to be checked. I put 4 new kits in when I did mine, here's a few photos in this thread of what I found. Admittedly the bike had been sitting for a few years to let the carbs get this bad.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13236.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13236.0)
But with everything cleaned properly, new components in they should run like new (or close to
it )
I like the idea of the liquid electrical tape for the tears X-Ray, how is that going still???
I have to go buy a 18mm spark plug socket........its always the one spark plug socket you don't have :dash1:
As much as im not looking forward to it, the carbies are coming back out to clean with actual carby cleaner...........given they came up not to bad with WD40, hopefully after cleaning with carby cleaner may get them to a point where no new parts are need to get running relatively nicely again.
This is all a very big learning experience, but it has been fun so far.
I did mine twice, with patience this time.
All the bits I cleaned with steel wool to get all the craps off and used oxy tip cleaning set to get the crap out of all holes. Steel wool cleaned the inside of bowl then washed all those bits in hot soapy water.
Don't forget to remove idle mixture screws, they are removed from the outside and need to come out, just checking how many turns they were out to start with, for when they go back in.
I didn't use steel wool on the slides.
Then carb cleaner in all passages in carb body, then compressed air to clean any residue out.
Syringe and hot soapy water through everything again then compressed air.
I have 4 New carb kits to go in mine when I get a chance but if you get stuck and need to use them and replace later , no worries, I forgot to order new Allen screws for carbs so I don't have any of those, sorry.
Quote from: cahop on March 02, 2017, 03:40:43 PM
I like the idea of the liquid electrical tape for the tears X-Ray, how is that going still???
So far so good, although I have only put a few miles on these carbs since being rebuilt. After I have done 1000kms I'll pull the tops off and check the diaphragms to see how they are holding up.
JIS screws can go die a painful death............
Just ordered a JIS screw driver as I have got the top off one carby but the rest remained fast and I rounded 3 screw heads......this is just annoying :flag_of_truce:
Quote from: cahop on March 09, 2017, 04:10:24 AM
JIS screws can go die a painful death............
Just ordered a JIS screw driver as I have got the top off one carby but the rest remained fast and I rounded 3 screw heads......this is just annoying :flag_of_truce:
No more annoyance should be had is you get one of these:
FJ11-12/XJ12/XJR13 S/S Screw & O-Ring Carburetor Kit (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit)
Then you will have all new screws and all of the o-rings to properly reseal your carbies.
Randy - RPM
so an update.
JIS screw driver arrived and......................its incredible what the right tool can do!!!!! I have all the screws from the carby tops undone and plan on cleaning the carbs tonight.
However in news that may disappoint a few, the works on this bike are now just to get it running and then put it up for sale. It was intended to get this bike running and on the road, however an opportunity to purchase a KZ650 presented itself and I jumped at it. I have always maintained a "1 in 1 out rule" for my garage so this means the FJ1100 must find its way to a new owner.
Hopefully get the carbies cleaned and in tonight and see if that makes it less "tractor-ish"
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e191/Dudleymini/1AFEAA88-899F-4A2F-97AE-C9835F62F52D.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/Dudleymini/media/1AFEAA88-899F-4A2F-97AE-C9835F62F52D.jpg.html)