I went and installed my new K&N filter pods. After putting everything back together it now idles around 2000rpm. I noticed when looking at the inlet manifolds that they have hairline cracks but they have always had these and ran fine. I did the spray test to tell me if there is a leak and the revs did go up a little. I guess that it would be a good idea to replace the manifolds anyways now that the bike has done 100 000km and that its now easy as to remove them with the OEM airbox removed. I have booked the bike into get bigger jets and to get the carbs synced as at the moment the syncPro that i have is reading fine for cylinders 1 & 2 but for 3 & 4 the vacuum is so high that the fluid gets almost to the top before i have to shut the bike off because it will suck all the fluid out of the tubes.
So what I'm after really is someone with a spare set of inlet manifolds that I could buy. Perhaps FJ1100 ones with the bigger inside diameter or a set of XJR ones are fine. By the way I live in Aspley on the northside of Brisbane. Happy to pay for them up front plus postage. Apparently Yamaha don't have any in Australia and they want $600 for the four.
If anyone has some please call or text me on 0450977474. Steve
Why don't you try the O rings first? (Between manifold boots and head)
New oem manifolds are dear. O rings are cheap.
$600 for new manifolds is criminal.... RPM is about $160 and they do ship to Australia.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=36Y-13586-00-00%2C36Y-13596-00-00&cat=24 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=36Y-13586-00-00%2C36Y-13596-00-00&cat=24)
Still, try the O rings first.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 17, 2017, 08:51:35 PM
Why don't you try the O rings first? (Between manifold boots and head)
New oem manifolds are dear. O rings are cheap.
$600 for new manifolds is criminal.... RPM is about $160 and they do ship to Australia.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=36Y-13586-00-00%2C36Y-13596-00-00&cat=24 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=36Y-13586-00-00%2C36Y-13596-00-00&cat=24)
Still, try the O rings first.
I couldn't get mine to raise the rpms. I used starter fluid. Nothing.Even tried spraying water thought maybe it would lower rpms. Still nothing cleaned the carb's 3 times. Still high idle. Well I had the orings that Randy had included in the carb rebuild kits. So I put them in one last effort the night before leaving for my first rally at Telico. Fixed it...Wish I would have tried that first.
So like Pat said. Try the orings first. Or just buy new ones from Randy. And know they are good
:good2:
Thanks guys for the advice. I decided that I'd at least have alook at the condition of my current o-rings. They are pretty flat so I pulled em out, flipped em over and put them back in. Then I fully cleaned both surfaces of where the head meets the manifolds. When I picked up the carbs to put into place I just noticed out of the corner of my eye that one of the butterfly valves wasnt quite closed 100%. Then after closer inspection I noticed that carb 3 & 4 were both slightly ajar. So I adjusted them using the syncing screws before fitting them back together.
Now it runs great. Not 100% on which thing fixed it but my guess is the butterflies. Before I pulled it all down again I had hooked up the syncPro and 1 & 2 were fine but 3 & 4 had so much vacuum that it wanted to suck all the fluid out of the syncPro. So I shut it down before the fluid reached the top. After I put I reassembled it the synchPro worked perfectly and just need a little tweeking. Now she sounds great, all the carbs are synced and it seems to have plenty of power. It was bogging down badly before but now it is great.
So thanks guys, if I hadn't pulled it down again, I may have taken a lot longer to find the issue. Fingers crossed, I'm about to take it for a ride
All went well except for it bogs down when under load and accelerating with 1/2 to full open throttle. It idles great, and cruises in all gears, but when the throttle is anywhere from 1/2 to full it bogs down until I back it off and it behaves like it should again. So would I need to richen it up or lean it out? When I was problem solving, I screwed all the air/fuel screws all the way in then backed them out 1 & 1/2 turns so they were all the same. My guess is it is running lean.
Anyone know for sure? I can turn them all out another 1/4 turn until it starts to respond positively or negatively.
I can tell though I almost felt like dancing :dance2: when I put it back together and it idled at proper rpm. I was able to sync the carbs with my brand new syncPro which truly made me feel like I knew what I was doing instead of :dash2:
So I'll fill you all in on my attempt to fix the bogging down under hard acceleration.
So cheers guys, but looks like I don't 'need' the manifolds now but I would like to know about some FJ1100 items, ie. with the wider inner diameter, can they be used with the carbies I have on my 2000 model XJR1300 SP? I was told today that the diameter may be too large for the throat of my carbies therefore not getting a seal at the carbie/manifold junction. Does anyone know the facts ?
Momo,
Yes, the FJ manifolds will work on your XJR, that is one of the most common mods for the XJR. We sell alot of intake manifold sets overseas to all the XJR guys. The carbs are identical except for the jetting is quite a bit leaner than the FJ and also I don't remember what year but they added a throttle position sensor on them as well.
Robert - RPM
Quote from: momodasaint on January 17, 2017, 07:20:33 PM
I went and installed my new K&N filter pods. After putting everything back together it now idles around 2000rpm. I noticed when looking at the inlet manifolds that they have hairline cracks but they have always had these and ran fine. I did the spray test to tell me if there is a leak and the revs did go up a little. I guess that it would be a good idea to replace the manifolds anyways now that the bike has done 100 000km and that its now easy as to remove them with the OEM airbox removed. I have booked the bike into get bigger jets and to get the carbs synced as at the moment the syncPro that i have is reading fine for cylinders 1 & 2 but for 3 & 4 the vacuum is so high that the fluid gets almost to the top before i have to shut the bike off because it will suck all the fluid out of the tubes.
So what I'm after really is someone with a spare set of inlet manifolds that I could buy. Perhaps FJ1100 ones with the bigger inside diameter or a set of XJR ones are fine. By the way I live in Aspley on the northside of Brisbane. Happy to pay for them up front plus postage. Apparently Yamaha don't have any in Australia and they want $600 for the four.
If anyone has some please call or text me on 0450977474. Steve
Steve
I just ordered a set of 4 from Yahoo Japan - total 18,000 Yen/US$208/A$270 plus delivery.
My old ones aren't that bad, your welcome to them for price of postage PROVIDED those from Japan are correct!
If you want brand NOS You could try a quote via JP Parts and see they are much cheaper than in Oz
http://global.jp-parts.com/ (http://global.jp-parts.com/)
Quote from: FJools on January 18, 2017, 01:43:33 PM
I just ordered a set of 4 from Yahoo Japan - total 18,000 Yen/US$208/A$270 plus delivery.
If you want brand NOS You could try a quote via JP Parts and see they are much cheaper than in Oz
http://global.jp-parts.com/ (http://global.jp-parts.com/)
We stock brand new, not NOS, Yamaha Intake Manifold Set (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=36Y-13586-00-00%2C36Y-13596-00-00) for $157.63USD and include a set of
Intake Manifold O-Rings (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=93210-40659) as well.
Robert - RPM
Hey guys, thanks alot for the awesome advice. And I will most definitely be ordering some manifolds next time I place an order Robert. I really cant explain how it happened but I assume that the syncing screw in the middle of all four carbs had to have been turned as I was removing them so I could get the old airbox out. It is the only way I can think that 3&4 were open slightly as this was the way that I closed them and solved the issue I believe. Also this would explain the rpm increase when I sprayed some butane around the carbs. It didn't increase at the manifolds but when I got a bit of excess spray go into the airfilter thats when I noticed a sudden and distinct rpm change. Not that I knew what that meant at the time. I would say that if I hadn't seen that little bit of light shining thru the gap between the butterfly valve and the carb body, I'd still be banging my head on the wall and probably ordered the new manifolds from RPM. Then I would of put the bike in the garage for two weeks until the parts arrived to work out that it didn't solve the problem. And that would of sucked bigtime. Gee I'm glad that I pulled it apart again to look at the manifold o-rings. I inspected the manifolds very well and there are hairline cracks on the outside but on the inside they all looked good to me. I would assume that they are original manifolds and after 100,000km they have gone a little brittle perhaps. I have got pretty efficient at taking the carbs off now and for anyone that hasn't done it before, it is so much easier without the airbox in the way. Plus there is that extra sound of the air getting sucked into the carbs.
I'm just glad that the bike is going again. It is my ONLY form of transport other than the bus and therefore I rely on it to go service my beehives and to do some handyman jobs that I've recently started doing. It was looking like two weeks of "home detention" but luckily 'I saw the light' you could say.....LOL.
cheers guys
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 18, 2017, 10:21:44 AM
Momo,
Yes, the FJ manifolds will work on your XJR, that is one of the most common mods for the XJR. We sell alot of intake manifold sets overseas to all the XJR guys. The carbs are identical except for the jetting is quite a bit leaner than the FJ and also I don't remember what year but they added a throttle position sensor on them as well.
Robert - RPM
Hi, by the way my bikes a 2000 and it has the sensor.
Robert, thanks for the help with the order a couple of weeks back by the way.
I noticed that in a few posts that you and Randy are happy to give advice on carb setup.
Well I played around with the air/fuel screws for a bit and kept screwing out a 1/4 turn at a time with no improvement.
Then I decided to try a different notch on the needles. I found that my needles only have 3 notches and mine were in the middle of the 3. So when someone says to go up or down a notch what direction is up exactly and which of those gives a richer mix. I put mine on the 3rd notch which is the one closer to the ground. I took it for a ride and made no difference to the bogging down problem I'm having after installing pods.
Lifting the needle (lowering the clip) is the correct way to go. It sounds to me, like you need to go up in the main jet size. What is your current size? By the sounds of it, you need to increase the main jet size by at least two sizes. This should get your needle clip back to the middle position but it's hard to judge due to the fact that your XJR is slightly different to our FJ's. A bit of trial and error is par for the coarse on this one. I suggest that you check your current main jet size and up size from there. The link below is a good place to buy jets in Australia but of course buy them from Randy at RPM is you choose.
http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au (http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au)
Regards, Pete.
PS. You should come to our upcoming FJ Rally at Esk in March. You won't regret it.
Looking at your profile picture, are you sure the XJR's not too much bike for you.
Quote from: ribbert on January 19, 2017, 05:02:31 AM
Looking at your profile picture, are you sure the XJR's not too much bike for you.
:lol:
Momo,
One thing that is going to be difficult to get direction, other than general tuning advise, for your XJR carbs is they use different slides, needles, emulsion tubes and jetting sizes. Pete is correct about raising the needle and lowering the clip to the bottom groove to enrich the circuit.
On the XJR, going from the air box to pod filters is a significant difference in air flow to the engine. The carbs will need to be properly jetted as the stock jetting is for the restricted air intake.
When I work on this US imported XJR last year Don't see one of these everyday in the ol' US of A (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16081.msg162007#msg162007), we converted the internal parts over to FJ parts and the bike never ran so good. I also replaced the smaller intake manifolds with the 36Y's
He did not want to install pods filters. I noticed the bike would just flatten out on the higher revs and speeds. After looking at the restrictive inlet snorkel design of the air box, I removed the lid and the bike ran great. So, since he did not want pod filters I modified the air box end plate of the air to match the internal hole of the air filter. I thought I took some photos, but I'm unable to find them right now.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 19, 2017, 11:17:28 AM
Momo,
One thing that is going to be difficult to get direction, other than general tuning advise, for your XJR carbs is they use different slides, needles, emulsion tubes and jetting sizes. Pete is correct about raising the needle and lowering the clip to the bottom groove to enrich the circuit.
On the XJR, going from the air box to pod filters is a significant difference in air flow to the engine. The carbs will need to be properly jetted as the stock jetting is for the restricted air intake.
When I work on this US imported XJR last year Don't see one of these everyday in the ol' US of A (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16081.msg162007#msg162007), we converted the internal parts over to FJ parts and the bike never ran so good. I also replaced the smaller intake manifolds with the 36Y's
He did not want to install pods filters. I noticed the bike would just flatten out on the higher revs and speeds. After looking at the restrictive inlet snorkel design of the air box, I removed the lid and the bike ran great. So, since he did not want pod filters I modified the air box end plate of the air to match the internal hole of the air filter. I thought I took some photos, but I'm unable to find them right now.
Randy - RPM
sorry Randy did you say that the clip has to go away from the ground the get a richer mix? As in move the clip up the needle towards the diaphram. Because I have moved it down towards the ground. Im a little confused so if I can be overly clear so I don't get it wrong. If looking at the needle and the notches are at the top, do I take the clip off the needle and put it back in the notch above the one it came from?
You know I was just thinking last week that my feet had gotten bigger but then again maybe its just because I'm so much closer too em these days. It seems that over the years I be shrinking...didn't think it had got THAT bad but when you realise that your feet don't touch the ground like they used to last year, you have to come to the conclusion that something is wrong... my doctors said it's "Nephewitus" or having one too many nephews in my DNA. or it could just be my nephew LOL.
Anyhoo, let me fill ya'll in on some jet sizes and other info I discovered as the Stock sizes an XJR1300 has from factory.
Main jet(M.J.) - #107.5 - This being the important one for my problem I'm told. I'll get a #110 & #112.5 to be sure.
Main air jet(M.A.J.) - #80
Jet needle(J.N.) - 5D118-53-3
Needle jet(N.J.) - P-0M
Pilot jet(P.A.J.1)- #140
Pilot outlet(P.O.) - 1.0
Pilot jet(P.J.) - #15
Pilot screw(P.S.) - 2
Valve seat size(V.S.) - 2.3
Starter jet(G.S.1) - #52.5
Starter jet(G.S.2) - 0.8
Float height(F.H.) - 33 -34 mm
Intake vacuum - 31.3 kPa (235 mmHg)
I know that theres a couple there that double up, like the Pilot jet but it has the letter codes next to them to differentiate between them. I found this in the Yamaha Mechanics Manual for XJR1300 SP.
Oh and because we are getting 40* Celsius days here downunder, I was wondering if someone can explain to me how the different spark plugs work. For example, a plug that is sold as 1 stage cooler, is that plug for operating in cooler weather than normal or hotter weather than normal?
And if anyone has any advice on the correct jets to get for my setup would be greatly appreciated.
Engine is stock except for a 4* advance.
Twin K&N filter pods
Stock exhaust
Bike is 100% at sea level
70/30 city riding/highway riding
Bike does ping with standard fuel
I have purchased but not installed Dyna coils 3.0 ohm as well as the 5 pin relay for these(hopefully installed very soon)
I have no idea if the stock jets are fitted in this bike but when looking at the screws on the carbs they are all in mint condition and are the OEM variety, so I would assume that nobody has touched them before I adjusted the needles one notch richer.
Thanks for all assistance
Bender
Quote from: momodasaint on January 19, 2017, 11:53:01 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 19, 2017, 11:17:28 AM
Momo,
One thing that is going to be difficult to get direction, other than general tuning advise, for your XJR carbs is they use different slides, needles, emulsion tubes and jetting sizes. Pete is correct about raising the needle and lowering the clip to the bottom groove to enrich the circuit.
On the XJR, going from the air box to pod filters is a significant difference in air flow to the engine. The carbs will need to be properly jetted as the stock jetting is for the restricted air intake.
When I work on this US imported XJR last year Don't see one of these everyday in the ol' US of A (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16081.msg162007#msg162007), we converted the internal parts over to FJ parts and the bike never ran so good. I also replaced the smaller intake manifolds with the 36Y's
He did not want to install pods filters. I noticed the bike would just flatten out on the higher revs and speeds. After looking at the restrictive inlet snorkel design of the air box, I removed the lid and the bike ran great. So, since he did not want pod filters I modified the air box end plate of the air to match the internal hole of the air filter. I thought I took some photos, but I'm unable to find them right now.
Randy - RPM
sorry Randy did you say that the clip has to go away from the ground the get a richer mix? As in move the clip up the needle towards the diaphram. Because I have moved it down towards the ground. Im a little confused so if I can be overly clear so I don't get it wrong. If looking at the needle and the notches are at the top, do I take the clip off the needle and put it back in the notch above the one it came from?
Nope, I fixed it, Pete was right, I just wrote it wrong... :Facepalm:
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 18, 2017, 03:20:27 PM
Quote from: FJools on January 18, 2017, 01:43:33 PM
I just ordered a set of 4 from Yahoo Japan - total 18,000 Yen/US$208/A$270 plus delivery.
If you want brand NOS You could try a quote via JP Parts and see they are much cheaper than in Oz
http://global.jp-parts.com/ (http://global.jp-parts.com/)
We stock brand new, not NOS, Yamaha Intake Manifold Set (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=36Y-13586-00-00%2C36Y-13596-00-00) for $157.63USD and include a set of
Intake Manifold O-Rings (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=93210-40659) as well.
Robert - RPM
My mistake they are New not NOS.
The only problem I have with most sources within the USA is the shipping cost from the USA to Australia.
From Japan via ems its only around $30 and here within 2-3 days