Hello brothers, good day!
With the end of our riding season, my first Canadian project begins! =)
I'm no expert and I'll need a lot of help from you guys. Everyday I'm looking for tips and ideas here and I believe this bike will be awesome after everything is done. The idea is to have a café racer or street fighter look, to use on urban areas only. Something like a blend of these two:
(https://s11.postimg.org/48jyk9vkv/4531905.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/48jyk9vkv/)
(https://s22.postimg.org/ss7on13d9/GEDC7104.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ss7on13d9/)
With the idea in mind I started to strip down the bike to restore the frame and already thinking about the suspension and paint jobs. So far after 3 nights of work:
Removing the fairings:
(https://s3.postimg.org/pwh1efwkf/IMG_20161108_173212.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/pwh1efwkf/)
(https://s14.postimg.org/ian516nrx/IMG_20161108_175624.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ian516nrx/)
(https://s12.postimg.org/k3cb7zhc9/IMG_20161108_191407.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/k3cb7zhc9/)
(https://s15.postimg.org/y5lk6crsn/IMG_20161108_193336.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/y5lk6crsn/)
Removing Air filter box, exhaust, ECU/wires and back section:
(https://s16.postimg.org/4f6innf0h/IMG_20161110_182854.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4f6innf0h/)
(https://s17.postimg.org/o03f8xjaj/IMG_20161110_193331.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/o03f8xjaj/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/fnlcghq79/IMG_20161112_191306.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/fnlcghq79/)
(https://s11.postimg.org/nld8qk7hb/IMG_20161112_191322.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nld8qk7hb/)
Noticed problems:
1) Rear shock: need a new one. What do you think its better: go for a completely new swing-arm or just change this shock?;
2) Cosmetic damage all over the frame caused by clutch oil leak and some rusty spots: need to "sandpaper" it and apply new paint. Any recommendation, or just sandpaper, primer and paint?;
3) Rejet carburetors to work with the cone filters;
4) Since the bike will be all disassembled I want to go ahead with the suspension/brake upgrades using an inverted fork and a "taller" back suspension with probably a single rider seat only and the "open laterals" look;
5) Possible upgrade on the oil heat exchanger, I'm thinking to use the bigger model from RPM.
(https://s12.postimg.org/nz9k9ly9l/IMG_20161112_180916.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nz9k9ly9l/)
(https://s11.postimg.org/xjt0afhcv/IMG_20161108_193303.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xjt0afhcv/)
(https://s12.postimg.org/ru8l84q89/IMG_20161108_193323.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ru8l84q89/)
(https://s22.postimg.org/7vpgqk0jh/IMG_20161108_193347.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7vpgqk0jh/)
Before the job started the bike was running pretty good with no issues at all. The only problem was the infamous 2nd gear...
The idea today is to remove the motor and separate the swing-arm from the frame...probably. hahaha...
Any thoughts or recommendations?
Thanks, and new pictures will arrive on each new step!
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on November 14, 2016, 10:34:14 AM
1) Rear shock: need a new one. What do you think its better: go for a completely new swing-arm or just change this shock?;
2) Cosmetic damage all over the frame caused by clutch oil leak and some rusty spots: need to "sandpaper" it and apply new paint. Any recommendation, or just sandpaper, primer and paint?;
3) Rejet carburetors to work with the cone filters;
4) Since the bike will be all disassembled I want to go ahead with the suspension/brake upgrades using an inverted fork and a "taller" back suspension with probably a single rider seat only and the "open laterals" look;
5) Possible upgrade on the oil heat exchanger, I'm thinking to use the bigger model from RPM.
Any thoughts or recommendations?
Big question: Do you have a budget?
Here's my recommendations:
1) Definitely a new shock. Height adjustable. Keep your aluminum swing arm but on your swing arm linkage replace ALL the '84/85 grease bushings with the '86/87 needle bearings. Plug and Play.
2) Wire brush and strip the frame. Powder coat if you can, if not prime and paint. Prior to powder coat/paint, I would get some JB weld putty and fill in the nasty exposed corner welds and sand smooth. The frame will now exposed. Unlike Bondo, the JB Weld putty holds up well to the heat cure of power coating.
3) If you know your way around the Mikuni CV36BS carbs, go for it. Suggest 40 pilots, 117.5 mains and a shim under the needles. If you do not want to work on the carbs, you can box them up and send them to RPM. Robert/Randy will do you right.
4) USD forks: Much has been posted about this mod. Read, read, read. http://www.fjmods.co.uk/ (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/)
Whatever you do,
do not cut the front cross over bar that ties the 2 sides of the lateral frame together. You will die.
Here's a tutorial on fixing your 2nd gear: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=666.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=666.0)
Cheers laddie! You are gonna have some fun... pictures, pictures, pictures....
Hi Pat, good afternoon!
Awesome, thank you very much for the links and comments! They'll be very useful! :good2:
I just read your post regarding the petcock and I remember seeing this while I was removing my tank:
(https://s22.postimg.org/gc3dqz15p/IMG_20161108_180041.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/gc3dqz15p/)
(https://s15.postimg.org/w5fn652br/IMG_20161108_180058.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/w5fn652br/)
Lucky me I didn't remove the "security device" holding everything together eh...hahahaha...
I also noticed some minor leakage from the petcock when I was removing the hoses. I believe it's normal since this is assembled by pressure only, right?
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on November 14, 2016, 02:32:44 PM
...I also noticed some minor leakage from the petcock when I was removing the hoses. I believe it's normal since this is assembled by pressure only, right?
When no vacuum signal is present, the petcock is in the closed position, NO fuel (at all) should dribble out the petcock. None. Zip. Zilch.
If it does dribble or drip fuel, it will only get worse (never better) and it can and will flood your engine and spill on your garage floor. :bomb:
If you have some weepage on the exterior of the petcock, invest a couple of bucks and replace the gasket between the petcock and tank.
Cheers
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 14, 2016, 03:49:50 PM
When no vacuum signal is present, the petcock is in the closed position, NO fuel (at all) should dribble out the petcock. None. Zip. Zilch.
If it does dribble or drip fuel, it will only get worse (never better) and it can and will flood your engine and spill on your garage floor. :bomb:
If you have some weepage on the exterior of the petcock, invest a couple of bucks and replace the gasket between the petcock and tank.
Cheers
For clarity, fuel dripping out and stopping is OK. A drip that keeps dripping is a leak and will only lead to potential disaster (think flaming disaster).
Exactly....thanks Markus!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 14, 2016, 11:25:50 AM
Cheers laddie! You are gonna have some fun... pictures, pictures, pictures....
BIGGER PICTURES PLEEEZ. (popcorn)
Yes the budget. And time. How patient are you? You could spend a lot of time and money for something amazing, or you could go with the rat-bike or steam-punk look, equally amazing. Two divergent paths that could end you up in the same place.
Oh decisions, decisions... :flag_of_truce:
As for frame tickling, I went the truck bed liner route. What????? I hear you exclaim. Yep, read several bike forums and the word was using spray on truck bed liner. It was cheap. Ten bucks a can. I used three. It gives a texture finish with a slight sheen and looks awesome with the gloss engine black. After three rallies, and ten thousand miles, there are no chips on the frame. I got rather carried away with it and did a few other parts all of which are holding up well. Only the swing arm has flaked a bit. I think that's due to chain lube.
Anyway, truck bed liner scores a recommended.
Yes, Andy Your frame looks great.....however....
If you spray that polished swing arm, I will piss in your corn flakes....
If you are doing a street fighter just buy a manual (pingel) petcock from Randy. He has the correct mounting plate included. And never have to worry about it. I have it on the 1350. I just bent the screen down on the left side panel for access through the top slot. Don't even notice the screen is missing.
Quote from: andyoutandabout on November 14, 2016, 11:04:21 PM
As for frame tickling, I went the truck bed liner route. What????? I hear you exclaim. Yep, read several bike forums and the word was using spray on truck bed liner. It was cheap. Ten bucks a can. I used three. It gives a texture finish with a slight sheen and looks awesome with the gloss engine black. After three rallies, and ten thousand miles, there are no chips on the frame. I got rather carried away with it and did a few other parts all of which are holding up well. Only the swing arm has flaked a bit. I think that's due to chain lube.
Anyway, truck bed liner scores a recommended.
Agreed - same thing I used on the 84 race bike frame and swingarm. Holds up well - not as well as powder coat, but a lot easier and less expensive
Hey guys, good morning!
Awesome, thank you very much for all the ideas!
Tomorrow I'll remove the engine and start to work on the frame, sanding it and preparing to apply the truck bed liner.
Andy and fj1289, great idea with the truck bed liner! I'll use it now. As far as I read it's way better than regular primer+paint eh! Awesome, thanks!
Markus and Pat, as far as I could see the dripping happened only when I moved the tank...and there is no leakage, only a couple of drips. I also left some gas inside the tank and put the tank on the ground with paper beneath it to see if the dripping was bad...the paper continued clean after a couple of days...
giantkiller, thanks for this idea to go with the manual petcock. Added to the "to buy" list. =)
PaulG, sorry for the small pictures man...I'm using the site "postimage" to host the pictures and this is the way they appear on the forum board...like miniatures. But if you click on the images here it will open another window with the big image. =)
During this weekend I'll also prepare the package to send the carburetors to Randy probably...I don't want to mess with them so it's better to send it to the master eh...hehe. In the meantime, the engine will be prepared to receive a new paint layer also!
Thank you guys! More pictures to be added during the weekend!
Good morning fellas!
On Sunday I took another couple of steps towards the engine removal: Oil, levers, foot pegs, heat exchanger and carburetors...gone. =)
(https://s16.postimg.org/88j0tq141/20161127_132151.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/88j0tq141/)
(https://s22.postimg.org/m6q1ihtod/20161127_154522.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/m6q1ihtod/)
The idea is to get it removed until Friday, then remove the swing arm and the front end.
And I'm still looking for a good front end with inverted forks...if anyone knows where I could find a good kit, please let me know.
Thanks guys, and have a good week!
Friends, I came across this option yesterday, do you think it could work?
It's a 1990 750 Ninja front end. The overall length is 32 1/4" while the FJ11 is 33", from top to the centre of the axel this one has 31" and FJ has 32".
It seems to be in good shape and the price is good, CAD300...what do you think?
(https://s21.postimg.org/5xb1b9nb7/IMG_6962.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5xb1b9nb7/)
(https://s21.postimg.org/8fwqby91f/IMG_6963.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/8fwqby91f/)
(https://s21.postimg.org/qjzqwl6pv/IMG_6964.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qjzqwl6pv/)
A quick check on the Race Tech website shows information on the type of front end for the 1990 Kawasaki Ninja ZX7 ...
http://www.racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Kawasaki/ZX-7%20Ninja/1989-90 (http://www.racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Kawasaki/ZX-7%20Ninja/1989-90)
So....you have cartridge forks: good. I suggest some Race Tech cartridges so you can adjust the shim stack for heavier springs (per below).
The stock Ninja spring rate .809 kg/mm and is too light for the heavy FJ so you will need heavier springs ~.95kg/mm or 1.0kg/mm
The Ninja's stanchion tubes are 43mm vs the FJ's spindly 41mm tubes so you can do a couple of things here, 1) mill out the FJ top and bottom triple clamp to 43mm or 2) use the Ninja's top and bottom triple clamps on the FJ. The problem with this option is the Ninja's steering stem. Is it compatable (diameter and length) with the FJ neck? Probably not, so it's back to option #1.
What are you planning for a speedometer? Does the Ninja have a mechanical speedo drive you can hook a cable to, or are you going electric?
A 1'' difference in fork length will mean that your bike will have much, much quicker steering. The bike will want to fall into corners. This will get worse if you raise the back end.
Hope this helps.... Pat
I just checked out a 1990 Ninja 750 speedometer on eBay, it still has a mechanical drive. One other possibility is removing the FJ 1100 steering stem from the FJ bottom triple clamp and installing in in the Ninja triple clamp. But the Ninja fork lock may not work with the FJ headstock. Modifications......I love them, once they get worked out.
Nice, thanks for the suggestion guys!
Pat, do you know if I can use this spring on those Ninja's forks? http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFS.95 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFS.95)
Or do I need to use a specific Kawasaki spring?
And about mill out the triple clamps, is it something recommended to do? Is there enough material to keep the clamps safely usable?
For the speedometer I'm thinking about use something like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-LCD-Digital-Tachometer-Speedometer-Odometer-Motorcycle-Motorbike-12000RPM-Ap511/32663754468.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.BxmzBp (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-LCD-Digital-Tachometer-Speedometer-Odometer-Motorcycle-Motorbike-12000RPM-Ap511/32663754468.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.BxmzBp)
Alex,
Was it this weekend you were coming to Calgary?
Jeff
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on November 30, 2016, 01:50:52 PM
And about mill out the triple clamps, is it something recommended to do? Is there enough material to keep the clamps safely usable?
You could also use a 1989-90 FZR1000 triple clamp set up. It is 43mm and bolts straight in to the FJ steering head bearings. Steering stops also need modification.
Regards, Pete.
Quote from: oldktmdude on November 30, 2016, 03:30:51 PM
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on November 30, 2016, 01:50:52 PM
And about mill out the triple clamps, is it something recommended to do? Is there enough material to keep the clamps safely usable?
You could also use a 1989-90 FZR1000 triple clamp set up. It is 43mm and bolts straight in to the FJ steering head bearings. Steering stops also need modification.
Regards, Pete.
Good option Pete ^^^ That would be the way I would go......
To answer Alexis's question, yes you can safely remove 1mm from the sides (2mm across the diameter) of the FJ's top and bottom triple clamps. Several FJ'ers have done this with no reported issues.
However, Pete's solution is the best. Why mill anything when you can plug and play?
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on November 30, 2016, 01:50:52 PM
Pat, do you know if I can use this spring on those Ninja's forks? http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFS.95 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFS.95)
Or do I need to use a specific Kawasaki spring?
On the Race Tech site I see 2 different part #'s for the Kawasaki spring vs FJ spring
Kawasaki fork spring FRSP S3732
Yamaha FJ fork spring FRSP S3234
So the answer is no, you can not use the FJ fork spring in the Kawasaki forks.
The Kawasaki springs from Race Tech are $129.99.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 30, 2016, 11:24:25 AM
A 1'' difference in fork length will mean that your bike will have much, much quicker steering. The bike will want to fall into corners. This will get worse if you raise the back end.
Hope this helps.... Pat
Don't forget the FJ forks extend through the upper triple clamp for the clip-ons to mount to. If you go with a tubular bar conversion (it is a streetfighter after all!), the difference in length becomes almost a wash
I just remembered about the fork tube spacing...Kawasaki vs FJ/FZR
If there's a difference between the Kawasaki's and the FJ's fork tube spacing, and you decide to use the FJ or FZR triple clamps, now you will have a problem using the Kawasaki wheel, spacer and axle with the different FJ/FZR fork tube spacing. Also your brake calipers now won't line up with your rotors and forget about using a Kawasaki front fender.
The only way to be sure this doesn't happen is to follow Country Joe's option. Use the Kawasaki top and bottom triple clamps (with the correct fork spacing) but press out the Kawasaki stem from the bottom triple and press in a stem from a FJ.
On the Kawasaki and FJ stems, hopefully the diameter are the same, if not you will need to weld material on the FJ stem and turn it on a lathe, to get a larger diameter so it will press fit into the Kawasaki lower triple.
Clear as mud?
Lots of things to think about, but nothing that can't be done, or problem that can't be solved.
Welcome to modifiers anonymous.
Awesome! Thank you very very much for all your input guys! I appreciate it! =D
I have a lot to think about the front end eh...hehehe.
In the meantime, yesterday was the D-day. Engine out, chassis dismantled. Oh lord...what am I doing...hahahaha
(https://s11.postimg.org/3yp7lujgv/IMG_20161201_145658.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/3yp7lujgv/)
(https://s11.postimg.org/6u2aspngv/IMG_20161201_160228.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6u2aspngv/)
Today I start to sand the chassis and prepare it to receive the EZ Liner...
Good morning guys!
andyoutandabout, this week I'll start with the painting...I bought those yesterday:
(https://s14.postimg.org/jcuakn1lp/IMG_20161205_085754.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/jcuakn1lp/)
I'll paint some smaller parts today and post the results. =)
Thanks!
Excellent. I tried to be as thoughtful as possible with my truck bed liner spray. I studied all the parts that either, never looked clean, were badly chipped or where a pain the rear to clean on a regular basis and coated them all.
Fun times
I did a test and the result was really good! I'll apply at least one more layer so the liner stick good...
Test on the lower end of the chassis with the ez liner and exhaust pipes with the vht paint:
(https://s29.postimg.org/c6dlb682r/IMG_20161205_152732.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/c6dlb682r/)
(https://s29.postimg.org/4ewvcm3xf/IMG_20161206_193328.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4ewvcm3xf/)
(https://s29.postimg.org/5v8dur6ub/IMG_20161206_193349.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5v8dur6ub/)
(https://s29.postimg.org/erj5yoxgj/IMG_20161207_102434.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/erj5yoxgj/)
These "exhaust holders" look like they were left at the bottom of the sea eh...hahaha. Nothing that a sand blast doesn't solve...
(https://s18.postimg.org/ahgelrnj9/IMG_20161206_184310.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ahgelrnj9/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/h96tomcit/IMG_20161206_184327.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/h96tomcit/)
And the chassis is half way done. =)
(https://s15.postimg.org/nzcjyc2ef/IMG_20161205_152659.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nzcjyc2ef/)
(https://s15.postimg.org/9u6qwitd3/IMG_20161206_193402.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/9u6qwitd3/)
Question: do you know if to paint the engine this kind of spray is good? -> http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/vht-high-temperature-engine-metallic-paint-312g-0473714p.html#srp (http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/vht-high-temperature-engine-metallic-paint-312g-0473714p.html#srp)
I want to give a metallic/gloss finish to the engine, not a matte finish...
Thanks brothers!
VHT= good stuff....Be careful on engine colors other than silver or black.
Several years ago we had a forum member who painted his engine red. Looked good with fresh paint but after several heat cycles, the engine was no longer red.
Geez...I can imagine his frustation...and that's exacly my concern. Even though this vht is for engines the temperature level is 345C when the one for the exhaust is for almost 1100C.
I know the engine doesn't reach temperatures like the exhaust but...I was just wondering if those vht for engines with temp 345C do the job...
Thanks Pat!
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on December 07, 2016, 08:22:53 PM
Geez...I can imagine his frustation...and that's exacly my concern. Even though this vht is for engines the temperature level is 345C when the one for the exhaust is for almost 1100C.
I know the engine doesn't reach temperatures like the exhaust but...I was just wondering if those vht for engines with temp 345C do the job...
Thanks Pat!
Quote from: ribbert on November 11, 2016, 05:45:55 AM
VHT Engine Enamel, below, after about 60K. It is suitable for everything except the exhaust and is unaffected by oil and fuel.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7486/15637542064_c4ec47620d_b.jpg)
Preparation - wash down with kero gun, high pressure clean, air dry, mask, paint, ride. You don't need a spray gun and if you're good with a spray can you can get away with one coat. No primer or undercoat required, it is intended to be applied directly to the job.
Good luck trying to find a DIY product that will last on the exhaust. I tried everything on the market then gave up and reluctantly polished them. Not as bad to keep looking good as I imagined though.
Noel
Awesome! Thanks ribbert!
I'll buy one of those today. =)
Gents, I have a doubt.
I bought this front end from a 2009 R1 to use on my project (will pick it up tomorrow :dance2: ) but it has no calipers.
(https://s24.postimg.org/uol3n8rz5/image.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/uol3n8rz5/)
From the picture I saw this one was using a three piston caliper, black dots...
In another ad I found these calipers (two piston, blue dots):
(https://s30.postimg.org/6nmhgndwt/image.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6nmhgndwt/)
Would these blue dots calipers fit on the 09 forks?
Thanks!
The forks look like radial mount and will not fit the Blue dots pictured.
Alex,
You will need six pot radial calipers...will show you when you get here.
Jeff
The blue dots pictured will bolt on the '89+ FJ forks.
Hey folks, good morning!
Merry Christmas (delayed) and happy new year (in advance)!! XD
A little bit of progress on the project and a couple of doubts.
Finished the painting on the frame, exhausts pipes, foot pegs and received the brakes (thanks FJmonkey and jscgdunn for your help =D)
I also got the front end and dismantled it to be able to swap the stems and my first doubt appeared: what's the direction to remove the stem from the bottom clamp, "a" or "b"? (those are press fitted, right? Would I be able to remove it with a press, is there any kind of blocking anywhere?)
(https://s24.postimg.org/9g2555ve9/20161220_135943.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/9g2555ve9/)
(https://s24.postimg.org/my91hg7jl/20161220_141724.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/my91hg7jl/)
(https://s24.postimg.org/tpzgkawj5/20161220_142947.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/tpzgkawj5/)
(https://s24.postimg.org/tei07jg35/20161230_120739.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/tei07jg35/)
My next steps will be: 1) paint the engine, already bought the VHT engine enamel metallic black; 2) swap the stems and install the front end; 3) still searching for the rear end. I think I'll do the CBR600 swap since the swing arm is already black and it should be an easy install...right?!; 4) Need to get a top triple clamp for the 2009 R1...mine is pretty damaged...=/; 5) start to put everything back together... =)
Sounds like a good plan, eh?!...hehehehe
Thanks, and happy holidays!! :gamer:
Hi Alex,
You have to press out the stems as per your picture on the right.
Happy new year!
Jeff
Hey brothers! Long time since I last wrote eh?!
The project was on hold a little bit...holidays, vacation, travels...but now we're back, full steam! XD
The new seat and swingarm arrived and I finished polishing the engine caps and painting the engine. Far from a professional service but still looks pretty good I think. :P
I'm having second thoughts on that seat though...I don't know if it'll match with the raw look of the bike...
I still need to install the stem on the new triple clamp and now with the new swingarm figure a way to install it also.
So far so good! :good:
(https://s23.postimg.org/4uy09dyqv/20170106_190841.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4uy09dyqv/)
(https://s23.postimg.org/3x8c27ikn/20170203_154437.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/3x8c27ikn/)
Before:
(https://s27.postimg.org/nslxydlf3/20170204_141347.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nslxydlf3/)
After:
(https://s23.postimg.org/kqzkg3493/20170205_145617.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/kqzkg3493/)
Finally, some progress!!
Just waiting for the steering stem to assembly the front and...but I couldn't help myself and I had to take a picture to see something...hahahaha
(http://i68.tinypic.com/30wqvdx.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/jgjpe0.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/w162hc.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/eb57p3.jpg)
Aaaaand it looks like a motorcycle again...sort of...hahahahaha
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2rc5oqu.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2wbypn5.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2s6830x.jpg)
Looking good.
Thanks FJMonkey. :)
I have aa question: do you think I can have problems with this much clearance between the footrest bracket and the swingarm?
(http://i65.tinypic.com/kd5rgn.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/30mtnxv.jpg)
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on May 04, 2017, 12:09:33 PM
I have aa question: do you think I can have problems with this much clearance between the footrest bracket and the swingarm?
Yes, when you put the nut on, it will scratch and gouge your swing arm.
On my T-Ace swinger I had to space out the side plates with 1/4" spacers and shave down the footpeg nuts with my belt sander.
Oh, useful info: I wont use the passanger footpeg. This will be a solo rider design. :)
That is the easy solution.
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on May 01, 2017, 12:57:40 PM
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2s6830x.jpg)
It looks like your subframe is tweeked. Time to get the 'come along' out.
I cut the side plates for future 92-93 r1 swingarm. On the fj1350r. Mounted the rear master and switch to the subframe with a simple bracket I made with my belt sander.
Quote from: giantkiller on May 04, 2017, 01:50:15 PM
I cut the side plates for future 92-93 r1 swingarm. On the fj1350r. Mounted the rear master and switch to the subframe with a simple bracket I made with my belt sander.
....and welded on a bracket for your Supertrapp can..... Well done.
Dan when you get a chance, can you post some close up detail on the m/c bracket?
How's the *deluxe* man cave project coming along? Broken ground?
To heck with posting a picture of the bracket. Post more pics of the complete bike!
Thanks
Dave
Awesome! Thanks brothers!
Another question: did I receive the wrong top triple clamp, or am I really sc*#$ed? :(
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2hhdues.jpg)
I was checking on ebay, thia seems to be from a 99 R1, when my forks came from a 09 R1...
The weird thing is that the whole thing was sold as a kit...
:/
Guess I'll have to buy a new top triple clamp...
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 04, 2017, 02:27:32 PM
Quote from: giantkiller on May 04, 2017, 01:50:15 PM
I cut the side plates for future 92-93 r1 swingarm. On the fj1350r. Mounted the rear master and switch to the subframe with a simple bracket I made with my belt sander.
....and welded on a bracket for your Supertrapp can..... Well done.
Dan when you get a chance, can you post some close up detail on the m/c bracket?
How's the *deluxe* man cave project coming along? Broken ground?
I have a close up of them in my images in the gallery. I can't get them to post anymore. Have to take them from my phone
Just keep running into obstacles trying to get my shop/house built. It shouldn't be this hard to build a new house.
(http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action-gallery;sa=view;id=7283)
Thanks Dave. Looks like Alexis is going to have a great bike.
Unfortunately alot of breakers don't know what they have. Twice I ordered what were supposed to be complete gsxr750 rear wheels. And both times got gsxr600 wheels. One had gsxr1100 parts mixed in.
Thanks Giantkiller! :)
And that's true man, unbelievable how they mix up parts...
Anyways...
Another couple of questions. Better ask before than cry latter...hahahahaha
I want to cut the subframe on the red lines, so what would be left is repesented by the yellow line. Do you think it will work and take all the weight, forces and movements? Or cutting that way I'm making it fragile enough to break?
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2wf0hnp.jpg)
I need also to put new stoppers on the triple clamp. Following the position on the original clamp it should be somewhere on the red lines here. Do you think an allen screw and nut will solve my problem or do I need to cut and weld a new piece? I don't care about the looks of the screw there, I'll paint everything afterwards...
(http://i66.tinypic.com/ivhnqf.jpg)
This is to address the steering stop question. I would use a 6mm bolt pushed through from the underside of the lower fork clamp. Make sure it is long enough to protrude about 1/4-3/8 of an inch. Use a standard metric dome nut and screw it onto the 6mm bolt. If you have access to a good drill press things should be fairly easy. Grind off the old nubs. Mark and drill through the holes for where you want your new stops to be. Drill from the smooth top side since there is lattice type bracing on the bottom side. You may need to counterbore the holes if the holes are into the lattice bracing.
I did not do this for my forks. I have a set of aluminum extensions that at steering stop, contact the main frame. The turning radius has decreased, so I am reluctant to add new stops.
Fred
This is what I did to shorten up the tail for the turbo bike.
Oh, awesome!
So you cut on the same region and added a "bracket reinforcement".
Great, now I know what to do for sure. Thanks brother!
:good2:
If I remember right I had a bent handle bar I cut short inserts for the top pipes. I think I had to grind the inside seam but otherwise a perfect fit. And a little stronger.
Lots to do yet, but today was exhaust pipes, carburetors and heat exchangers day!
Looking goooooood.
:yahoo:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/syb8qp.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/30kee82.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/52ghuf.jpg)
That looks great. I have a true basket case. (With a title) That I hope to make a street fighter out of some day. Hope I can make it look almost as good as yours.
This is looking very good...
Great progress Alex! I think you will find that you will have clearance issues with the rear brake Mc and the exhaust with the swing arm. I have a couple of V&H 4 into 1 headers here.
Jeff
Thanks brothers! :good2:
This is coming to reality only with your help! I really appreciate it! XD
Today I'll go out to buy the battery. I want to use the lithium battery, to be able to hide it under the seat on a horizontal position.
Do you know a good brand/model that I can use, keeping the electric start? I saw only that Shorai isn't a good choice for cold weathers (which is my situation...hehe)
My idea is to keep the minimum wiring possible, only the lights and engine functions actually. I'm not using a "standard" control panel...
jeff, do you know if here in Alberta we're allowed to use a cel phone with a speedometer+GPS as the control panel? Or if a peace officer sees it I'll lose my bike? hehehe
I use shorai in my 700 raptor on the ice. Been out in -17 weather. Haven't had a problem.
A gratuitous picture of my ice tires
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on May 12, 2017, 02:51:53 PM
Thanks brothers! :good2:
This is coming to reality only with your help! I really appreciate it! XD
Today I'll go out to buy the battery. I want to use the lithium battery, to be able to hide it under the seat on a horizontal position.
Do you know a good brand/model that I can use, keeping the electric start? I saw only that Shorai isn't a good choice for cold weathers (which is my situation...hehe)
My idea is to keep the minimum wiring possible, only the lights and engine functions actually. I'm not using a "standard" control panel...
jeff, do you know if here in Alberta we're allowed to use a cel phone with a speedometer+GPS as the control panel? Or if a peace officer sees it I'll lose my bike? hehehe
Hi Alex,
Not sure on the speedo...I would ask forgiveness and give it a try.
I used trailtech vapor I think they were called. They use a magnet. I just got a hex head bolt to replace one of the allen head bolts on the rotors. And drilled a hole in it epoxied the magnet into the hole. Works great. Vapors are cheap. And have a tach, temp gauge all kinds of stuff I never use.
Good morning friends!
I finally bought the correct top triple clamp, and now the thing doesn't fit right...my gosh...
Do you think is ok to use it like the pictures, grabing a little bit more than half of what it should on the top of the forks?
(http://i63.tinypic.com/vid0gg.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2igj0af.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2v2z2vb.jpg)
Ps: sorry for the upside down pictures... :dash2:
Nope, not enough purchase on the fork tubes.
You will need tube extenders like Fred used here: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16432.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16432.0)
You will also need a bushing between the top clamp and the steering stem nuts.
Talk to Dan (aka giantkiller) he's the expert on these tube extensions. I recall he was talking to his machinist about making up a fresh batch: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=15304.msg169479#msg169479 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=15304.msg169479#msg169479)
Hope this helps. Pat
Alex you have a few parts missing form the stem. There should be a cover and another nut as well. Jeff
Also the steering stem should be sticking out more.
Quote from: jscgdunn on May 19, 2017, 04:44:53 PM
Also the steering stem should be sticking out more.
Yes, I saw that, but I assumed the lower triple was not seated.
If the lower triple is fully seated, then that stem is wrong, wrong. There needs to be a lock nut on that assembly. (Along with a shield) With out that lock nut, the base nut will not stay secure as the forks move side to side.
Alexis, do you realize that the FJ steering stem needs to be pressed into the R-1 lower triple?
The R-1 stem will not work on the FJ steering neck.
Tim (axiom-r) did a R-1 front end, see post #36: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3148.30 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3148.30)
Hey brothers, good morning!
Jeff, thanks once again for all your help!
Pat, thanks for your comments and that's true brother, what I'm using is the R1 clamp with the FJ stem...I was talking to Jeff and he explained to me in details. What happened is that the guys who made the service on the stem did it wrong. They didn't press the stem on the correct position so now I have a short stem...hahahaha. S*#t... I'll have to redo it...
Now everything is on hold until after the rally. I'm waiting for the battery to arrive and then I can start to figure it out the harness position between the tank and the header, and the layout for everything under the seat...
More pictures to come!! :good2:
Good evening folks!
Battery arrived!
(https://i.imgur.com/VbEeDKs.jpg)
Wrong counter-shaft sprocket bought. The correct one is on its way already
(https://i.imgur.com/Rt4VTnv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hu2kNoO.jpg)
And the golden question!!! Do you think this aluminum tape will really protect the wires, or will they literally cook the plastic and everything else wraped there?
(https://i.imgur.com/rvqxxgN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pb3swH1.jpg)
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on June 01, 2017, 11:28:11 PM
......Do you think this aluminum tape will really protect the wires.....
(https://i.imgur.com/rvqxxgN.jpg)
Alexis, protection from what? radiation? spy satellites? covfefe? :biggrin:
Seriously, you are addressing a problem that doesn't exist. The wires already have protection (the insulation). I don't believe I have ever ready of anyone having a problem with "exposed" wires. Also, the aluminium is conductive, the whole thing could light up like a Christmas tree with one short and any water or condensation that finds its way in there will stay there which could lead to corrosion.
There are plenty of great products for protecting against abrasion and wire bundling, no need to re invent the wheel.
These two types for example are high temp and won't rub through. These, in a couple of different diameters, and heat shrink cover all of my wiring requirements.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/435/31696180721_cf97f26075_b.jpg)
They are both "split/self closing"
I read the label on the product you used and it doesn't quite seem that this was its intended use.
If you're
really worried about protection, these spade terminals are covered in three different diameter heat shrinks. The wiring itself needs no further protection. If you look closely you will seen they then go into the conduits shown above.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8231/29671812150_ea1165e0b6_c.jpg)
Once again, you have applied a fix to a problem that doesn't exist and may well have created a new one in the process.
Keep it simple.
Noel
Hi Noel, good morning!
I see...I should've asked before applying all that s*it eh?! hahahahahahahha
My problem is that all that wiring will be touching the headers. My idea is to keep everything between the gas tank and the headers, and I don't quite have enough space behind the carburetors.
Going with those conduits and heat shrink covers would be my best bet then eh?! Even with them rubbing on the header the whole time?
Headers? Do you mean head?/ Cam cover? If that's what you mean the heat shrink should be enough. When I pulled the turbo off the f250. I discovered that the main wire harness was routed right next to the turbo. Talk about heat! Asked the local diesel tech and he said it was correct. :wacko3:
Looks good. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Quote from: Alexis Wenzel on June 02, 2017, 09:44:38 AM
Hi Noel, good morning!
I see...I should've asked before applying all that s*it eh?! hahahahahahahha
My problem is that all that wiring will be touching the headers. My idea is to keep everything between the gas tank and the headers, and I don't quite have enough space behind the carburetors.
Going with those conduits and heat shrink covers would be my best bet then eh?! Even with them rubbing on the header the whole time?
Alexis, I assume, as Dan observed, you mean the head, not the head
ers The headers being the engine exhaust pipes. A while back I rewired my bike and relocated a lot of the electrics in the tail section.
The fat bunch of wires to the right in the photo I posted runs everything to the tail. It is wedged between the head and the frame rail at the RHR of the motor so it gets both engine heat and vibration.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8467/29931332966_e438f6a22f_c.jpg)
The covering is "high temp" although makes no actual claim about max temp. It has been like this for about 20,000km with no sign of wear or heat affect.
As you can see (previous post photo) at the top where the wires come out, it is spit on one side but resumes its tubular shape when let go, makes it easy to place over existing wiring, you don't have to feed it through. It is also very flexible. It can be folded over on itself without distorting.
As a mechanic I try and stay abreast of what's out there. I recently spent a couple of hundred dollars at the electrical store buying a handful of everything that looked vaguely interesting and related to automotive wiring.
These are my current favourites. Self soldering heat shrink joiners, heat shrink spade terminals and braid wrap.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/612/32744956305_dab5d0d312_c.jpg)
What I don't understand is why you say there is no room behind the carbies, you have pods, that should give you a ton or room. The other place the wiring and relays can be mounted is the RH upper space under the fairing, heaps of room there. I also can't figure out just what it is you have wrapped up there ?????
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5150/29378110494_562662300f_c.jpg)
IMO
Noel
Gentlemen, good morning!!
Yes, this had been a loooooong pause. Moved 6 times in the last two years, changed jobs, had a baby, bought a new bike...but now things have finally settled down and....drums please....the project is back on!!!
Yes Yes, finally!! LoL
(http://i66.tinypic.com/ehn5h1.jpg)
I'll have more pics in the near future. XD
Glad to be back!!
(popcorn)
Looking forward to pics of the FJ project but would also like pics and more info on that good looking Suzuki. Although I am partial to Yamaha's I will admit to owning more than one Honda, Kawasaki and Suzuki bike over my many years. I don't admit to owning that Hardly Ableson still parked in my garage though ......
Dave
Hi Dave!
That Suzuki is a 2000 GSXR 600, Alstare Edition. Last model of the SRADs. I love it!
(http://i65.tinypic.com/1z69p1d.jpg)
Folks, I'm looking for a solution on the brake/clutch levers with its fluid rezervoirs. I dont think I'll move forward with the R1 handlebars, they're too close to the tank and I would have to buy new reservoirs and master cylinders.
Would I be better off using a "touring/naked" model handlebar? That way I could keep the original controlers and all eh?! Something like an FZ1 top crown and clamps...
I'm currently using a 2009 R1 front end.
What do you think?
Hey guys, how's it going?!?
4 years later, many moves and life changing situations...I haven't given up! My project is finally done! Obviously with some minor adjustments still to be completed here and there but... I've made it! :good2: :dance: :drinks:
I still need to wrap exhaust with thermotape, the tank / scoops / fender on the right colour, fix the "weird too high" reservoirs, put the license plate on, connect the lights and wait for a new petcock coming from rpm, but other than that...this is it!!! :yahoo:. :yahoo:
A big well done, it looks awesome.
4 years is a while; a bike on the road is worth two in the garage, but that is now the past.
Yay, get riding
Yes, indeed, brother! 4 years is a looooong time ..lol
Some more updated pics. New paint scheme, wrapped exhaust and some minor stuff done...
Looking good? :)
Certainly looking good.
And being Fj peeps here, it's clear that much modification has occurred.
I suspect it handles rather well.
Get it to a rally (once the lockdowns are lifted) and let the Fj fanciers get an eye full. I think there are more than one or two talking points here.
I hope that dinky little can makes the neighbourhood dogs bark, old folks shake their fists, and little kids scream in delight. :good2: Awesome. Just careful with the wheelies. Wouldn't want to slip off the back and give yourself a close shave. :sarcastic:
Awesome! And well done retaining the scoops - they look like they belong!
Quote from: PaulG on May 12, 2020, 08:36:36 PM
I hope that dinky little can makes the neighbourhood dogs bark, old folks shake their fists, and little kids scream in delight. :good2: Awesome. Just careful with the wheelies. Wouldn't want to slip off the back and give yourself a close shave. :sarcastic:
Yeeesss!!! LoL man, indeed! That's the best description of what happens here.
And, since you mentioned, my front neighbour told me last week that her cat jumps and runs for shelter everytime I fire my bike up...lol
Quote from: fj1289 on May 12, 2020, 11:53:12 PM
Awesome! And well done retaining the scoops - they look like they belong!
Right?!? It looks like it's always been there, directly on the frame. I really like the way it looks there! :)
Quote from: andyoutandabout on May 12, 2020, 07:09:38 PM
Certainly looking good.
And being Fj peeps here, it's clear that much modification has occurred.
I suspect it handles rather well.
Get it to a rally (once the lockdowns are lifted) and let the Fj fanciers get an eye full. I think there are more than one or two talking points here.
Yes sir, lots of major mods on it, and indeed it handles super nicely! It's lower now and with the wider tire plus the super strict diet that the bike went through...oh my...I love it!
And I would love to go to the rally! Hopefully this covd stuff goes away soon... :/
And, some new changes here...
New wheel red stripe thingy...forgot the name...lol
And new oil filter system!! Uhuuull!!! XD
Plus, I've changed the spark plugs and noticed some oil mist on top of the header screws...and some oil on the spark plugs from cylinders 2 and 3...and the tip of the spark plug from cylinder 2 was bent...
How do you think these plugs are looking, after 40some thousand km?
So, the clip ons were a really rough rough ride.
On with the new handlebar, brake and clutch levers, vibration dampers, headlight and turn signal.
:)
very cool looking bike nice work ! When i first looked at the top picture i thought you have mounted brake and clutch lever guards .Taking a closer look i see its mirrors but could also work as lever guards. Good to have in case Romano Fenati pulls up on your side see link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKYQqIXLejI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKYQqIXLejI)
I'm not an expert but to me the sparkplugs looks great after 40 000km the oilmist is only the rubbergrommets sitting on the valvecover bolts needing replacement.