So, I thought it might be kinda cool to put in an FZR 1000 rear on my 93 ABS.
I am failing in my search on this for some reason, as a lot of what I'm finding has to do with the 18" FZR wheel, and I'm looking at the 17" one.
1. The correct wheel is from an FZR1000 and is marked at 17x5.50
2. This is going to let me keep ABS operational, right?
3. Some small amount of machining is required, right? IIRC, a few millimeters need to come off the sprocket carrier. I know those English blokes have a kit, but with shipping it sounds kinda spendy.
Unless someone else has found a compatible wheel in use and chimes in. I Do Not believe that there is a 17" rear wheel that is an easily modified example. I also believe that the 18" FZR1000 kit from the UK FJClub does not offer the ability to retain the ABS feature. I also believe that the 18" wheel is only 4.5" wide.
There is a member here that has an XJR1300 wheel that has been modified to accept the FJ ABS hub. All of the work was done in Germany and then shipped to the US when finished. Jon Fife has stated that the individual that performed the mod, no longer does them.
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on November 08, 2016, 05:26:20 PM
Unless someone else has found a compatible wheel in use and chimes in. I Do Not believe that there is a 17" rear wheel that is an easily modified example. I also believe that the 18" FZR1000 kit from the UK FJClub does not offer the ability to retain the ABS feature. I also believe that the 18" wheel is only 4.5" wide.
Fred
The UK kit specifically says it fits the 17" FZR wheel, not the 18". The 18" wheel is supposed to fit without it.
18" wheel is 4.5 wide. The 17" is 5.5.
To minimize machining you can also use an offset countershaft sprocket. You MAY (or may not!) have a small intereference issue with the frame inboard of the foot peg mounts - depending I think in how neatly that area was welded. It doesn't take much work with a file or grinder to clearance it. It is the same area you have to deal with when using an XJR engine (or an XJR output shaft) in an FJ frame.
The YZF1000R "thunderace" had 17" hoops. And with a 180 rear I would bet it sits on a 5.5" wide rim
http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_yzf100r_96.htm (http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_yzf100r_96.htm)
Did some more googling.
Looks like I was mistaken about keeping the ABS. Unless there is a bunch of milling done.
The FZR wheel has a bunch of webs where the cavity for the sensor is. If the hub is the same size it shouldn't be that big of a deal to mill it to take the ring gear. What it lacks is the bosses for the screws holding the sensor in. Also not sure if the brake rotors bolt up.
Quote from: Dads_FJ on November 08, 2016, 07:51:56 PM
The YZF1000R "thunderace" had 17" hoops. And with a 180 rear I would bet it sits on a 5.5" wide rim
http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_yzf100r_96.htm (http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_yzf100r_96.htm)
Thunderace wheels are harder to come by than FZR. Also, the casting looks like there is no way to mill it for the sensor.
I saw that Randy has a 17" 5.5" wide ABS rim on one of the FJ's in his shop, so we know that they are out there..........somewhere they exist.
The problem is, we don't know what bike the ABS rim came off of......
Perhaps he has an update.
The FJ ABS wheel can be modified and turned into a 5.5" wide wheel. But the cost must be prohibitive.
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 08, 2016, 08:47:06 PM
The FJ ABS wheel can be modified and turned into a 5.5" wide wheel. But the cost must be prohibitive.
Yes, at $755 per wheel is stupid expensive.
As discussed here: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13447.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13447.0)
Here is what the rims look like from the right side.
It should be pretty obvious what I'm talking about with the webs and the cavity.
It would be super cool to make some measurements, but I'd have to lay out the money for the rim to do that, I suppose. I don't know how important the bosses for the ABS tooth ring are. The ring doesn't really have any stress on it, the screws are there just to keep it in place.
Quote from: JPaganel on November 08, 2016, 08:27:35 PM
Did some more googling.
Looks like I was mistaken about keeping the ABS. Unless there is a bunch of milling done.
The FZR wheel has a bunch of webs where the cavity for the sensor is. If the hub is the same size it shouldn't be that big of a deal to mill it to take the ring gear. What it lacks is the bosses for the screws holding the sensor in. Also not sure if the brake rotors bolt up. Quote from: Dads_FJ on November 08, 2016, 07:51:56 PM
The YZF1000R "thunderace" had 17" hoops. And with a 180 rear I would bet it sits on a 5.5" wide rim
http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_yzf100r_96.htm (http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_yzf100r_96.htm)
Thunderace wheels are harder to come by than FZR. Also, the casting looks like there is no way to mill it for the sensor.
You're right, my bad.
How about the Yamaha GTS1000? That had ABS and a fat 180 rear tire.
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/98-Yamaha-GTS-1000-Rear-wheel-/141296060104 (http://www.ebay.ie/itm/98-Yamaha-GTS-1000-Rear-wheel-/141296060104)
Quote from: Dads_FJ on November 08, 2016, 10:00:27 PM
You're right, my bad.
How about the Yamaha GTS1000? That had ABS and a fat 180 rear tire.
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/98-Yamaha-GTS-1000-Rear-wheel-/141296060104 (http://www.ebay.ie/itm/98-Yamaha-GTS-1000-Rear-wheel-/141296060104)
That looks like it's got the right sort of cavity. I'm sure the ABS interchanges perfectly. But holy heck is this an even more rare wheel than the Thunderace... :wacko2:
Hah!
I ran an interchange search for the tooth ring.
The only two bikes to use this ABS system are FJ and GTS.
Ain't we special...
I found the thread with the XJR wheel machined.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13698.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13698.0)
It actually looks exactly like the FZR wheel. And the machining looks exactly like what I said - milled out webs.
I might actually toss a couple of bucks at this and talk to a machinist friend.
Maybe John can share the contact info of the guy in Germany. Then he might share some sketches or drawings of what needs to be machined. I see that he has not logged in about a year now but it might be worth a shot.
Realistically it's only a small amount of machining, anyone with experience and is competent on a lathe that is large enough to accommodate 18" plus outside diameter should be a walk in the park.
More info.
This is from http://www.fjmods.co.uk/Wheels.htm (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/Wheels.htm)
QuoteFZR1000 EXUP rear wheel conversion - This is a 5.5"x17" rim and takes a 170/60x17" tyre. It gives a very 'planted', stable ride. I wouldn't in anyway say it's superior to the Genesis mod though, as this remains the more 'agile' option. The Exup wheel just 'looks right' and a whole host of tyre selections become possible, with the 17" tyre. To install this wheel and retain proper wheel alignment and chain clearance, it is necessary to modify the cushdrive assembly. Basically, the whole cushdrive has to sit 7mm deeper into the wheel. All parts are standard FJ (except the wheel of course).The following alterations are made to these components:-
Cushdrive Hub/Sprocket Carrier - Machine 5mm from the ends of the cushdrive dogs (those things that engage into the cush rubbers). Remove the outer rim (about 2.5mm) of the cushdrive hub. (Picture)
Cushdrive Bearing Spacer - Machine 7mm from the end that butts up to the L/H wheel bearing. This part of the spacer now measures 13mm instead of the OEM 20mm.
Cushdrive Housing (In Wheel) - Remove 5mm from the outer surface of the cushdrive vanes. As the the cushdrive is introduced into the wheel, removal of a small amount of metal is needed around the L/H wheel bearing housing. Use Plasticine pressed onto these areas, to highlight surfaces needing further easing. You have achieved the correct amount of clearance for the cushdrive, when the cushdrive bearing spacer, squarely meets the bearing, with no fouling by the cushdrive. (Picture)
Cushdrive Rubbers - Shave approx 5-7mm, from the outer surface.
Caliper Mounting Bracket - I used an Exup caliper bracket, which differs from the FJ. Start by removing 2mm from the inner face and 5mm from the outer. Some slight adjustment will be necessary after this, but it's easy to do.
This process probably sounds more complicated than it actually is. Once you have the components in front of you, it's pretty plain what's got to go where. I used a power file, to remove the metal from inside the wheel and to dress the cushdrive rubbers. I had the cushdrive machined, but with patience, this too could be done by hand. The cushdrive bearing spacer MUST be accurately machined to ensure proper spacing, otherwise the bearings would be preloaded when the rear wheel spindle is tightened (not good). When finished the whole lot will sit 7mm deeper into the cushdrive, as pictured.
Same page states this:
QuoteMany FJer's have wanted to fit a wider rear wheel rim to their FJ's whilst retaining their ABS. Now it's no problem. Our old friend Horst Blim has done the necessary machining etc, to fit the 5.5" FZR rim to the ABS FJ. Horst can supply all parts necessary and can arrange shipping. Check out Horst's website at www.hbbike.de (http://www.hbbike.de) and don't worry Horst speaks good English too !
The site, however, seems to be gone. There is only a blank page with "Hier entsteht demnächst eine neue Internetpräsenz " - "Coming soon", basically.
Maybe I will try to email the guy at the address he has on that page, but it seems an unlikely proposition.
Quote from: RussTheEngineer on November 09, 2016, 04:44:46 PM
Realistically it's only a small amount of machining, anyone with experience and is competent on a lathe that is large enough to accommodate 18" plus outside diameter should be a walk in the park.
I'll hit up my machinist friend. See what he says.
Spent some time talking to my friend and going over pictures. He says it's not a problem.
I think I am going to get an FZR wheel and go for it.
If we get this sorted out, would any other ABS owners be interested? I'm sure I could talk him into doing a batch of them.
I've recently completed a non-ABS FZR1000 rear wheel conversion.
I realise there is a significant difference on the internal with the ABS, however there seems to be plenty of machining room in the hub.
If the external dimensions are the same, metal only comes off the LHS of the hub and off the sprocket carrier. No point going into what dimensions I did as the internals look quite different. Overall I think you are on a winner.
If it helps, here's the link to where I started fooling with the FZR wheel...http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=15052.45 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=15052.45)
additional to my last, I think it will be an easy one. It 'looks' like the sprocket side is the same as the non ABS version. If the outer dims are the same fitting should be a breeze.
If this is the case, make sure you get the FZR axel spacers, they are stepped and remove any need for additional spacers like on the GSXR rear conversions.
Also, if this is a goer, the FJ rear disc is an exact fit on the studs for the FZR wheel. No need to change the calliper or remount. :good2:
It's on.
FZR wheel is en route.
I will try to keep good records of what gets done.
Got the wheel in the mail.
Hilariously, they wrapped it up to look like a head of cheese.
Here is a photo of Jon Fife's XJR conversion: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13698.msg138019#msg138019 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13698.msg138019#msg138019)
Randy - RPM