I'm about to dive into the valve clearance/shim issue amongst other things. I will be buying the RPM VAT (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tools%3AVAT&cat=39). They are unobtainium up here other than through the U.S. on ebay (same price as Randy's). Even the Yamaha dealer said I was better off NOT buying one from them. When's the last time you heard that? :scratch_one-s_head:
I was wondering if the cam cover gasket (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=5WM-11193-00-00&cat=39) was an absolute necessary replacement. I've never changed it since '07 when I bought it, and I don't know how old it is but it doesn't leak.
The shims I will probably have to get through the dealer, as the shim kit is unable to be shipped beyond the border. Outside of some possible shim changes, I am not expecting anything untoward (knock on wood :dash2:) hopefully, as I don't have any excessive noise or oil consumption. I have a GYSM somehere but the wife seems to have stashed it on her last cleaning binge. :ireful:
It's a '92 ABS with over 200,000 km now. Anything else I might consider checking while I'm in there? I will be renting some space at the DIY shop in Toronto so I will have access to tools I don't have - as well as benches! What luxury!
My initial to do list will be as follows:
Leak Down Test and Compression Tests
Valve Clearance Inspection
Valve Shim Adjustment
Some Miscellaneous Fiddling Around
What would be the range of compression where I should be concerned? The Leak Down Test (https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/car-maintenance-archive/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test) should tell me where a problem exists if there is one. I've scanned around and can't find anything too specific re this on the site. (Though I'm sure I will be proven wrong.... :blush:)
This will be my initial maintenance regarding the engine - anything further will be assesed as it happens - cuz I started computating the variables of what could happen, and I foresaw a completely rebuilt engine in my future. It might not work - but it would be rebuilt!
Outside of basic maintenace, I don't think this bike has had a major overhaul ever. I'm not going to attempt to do this (yet), just go over some things that are probably overdue. Everything still works as it should (yes even the ABS!), so I'm willing to leave well enough alone.
Hi Paul,
Unless the cam cover gaskets leaks...it should be ok. Usually the cover bolt rubbers leak.
I too am chasing shims this week. They seem very expensive to buy, but some shops will exchange them. For example we have a shop here that will exchange shims for a $3.25 premium (ie not the Yamaha dealer). This is good deal because you get rid of (in my case, anyway) the 275 shims and get 260 265 and 270 shims which always seem to be required. I am doing 2 this winter.
This guy has a bunch but will not separate or ship them:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-other/north-bay/motorcycle-tools:-valve-adjustment-shims/1208111595?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true (http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-other/north-bay/motorcycle-tools:-valve-adjustment-shims/1208111595?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true)
Also a carb synch after you adjust the valves is good to do.
If it runs great at 200K I might just forgo the compression test; you might get the wrong answer. :shok:
Have fun,
Jeff
By the way, all of these motors use 25 MM shims so you could source from Honda dealer if required.
Triumph 3&4 cyl
CB750C/F/K/SC
CB900C
CB1000C
CB1100F
CBX
SRX250
XT250
TT350
XT350
XJ600
XVZ12
XVZ13
V-MAX
FJ1100
FJ1200
XVZ1300
Personally, i would get a V/cover gasket and if the one removed is soft and looks good,use it but at 10 years old...better safe than sorry. Definitely do the valve springs. That is something you will feel. I would run the valve clearances before i got to far into this as well.
Quote from: PaulG on October 26, 2016, 02:00:50 PM
Everything still works as it should (yes even the ABS!), so I'm willing to leave well enough alone.
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That is great advice! The minute you start fiddling .......
Paul, just remember if your renting space, the compression test must be done hot and the valves clearances overnight cold.
If it's running well, not using oil and all the indicators are good, you could probably pass on the comp and leak down tests.
Noel
Paul I have the tool and an assortment of shims. You are welcome to borrow them from me any time. The shim kit is quite extensive however it is possible that the one you may need isn't in it.
I suggest replacing the valve cover grommets while you're in there.
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/2GH-1111G-00-00-1.jpg)
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2GH-1111G-00-00&cat=39 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2GH-1111G-00-00&cat=39)
Thanks for all the info. I've contacted fj johnnie re the tool and shims, and I will be picking them up next week. I did the grommets this spring so no worries there. So instead of buying the VAT I might get a fork brace to help stop my front fender from disintegrating.... maybe rebuild the fork internals.... oh no... it's starting again... :wacko2:
I rode into the Motorevere DIY shop today to start on my PM's for my '92. First thing was a compression check while the engine was still warm.
#1 #2 #3 #4
150 150 150 150 (psi)
Am I missing something here? I was expecting at least some variance between cyclinders. Did it a second time and all cylinders read the same. I asked if the owner had used this gauge yet, and he said yes he just used it yesterday and was working ok.
The Clymer manual states a standard of 142psi, with a max of 171psi (min 128psi). I won't be checking the valve clearances for a few days due to work, so that is still an unknown. Once I do that and if I need to change some out I will check it again. If they're within spec then retesting is moot.
Just wondering if getting the exact same reading across all cyclinders is not uncommon? Also being about 6% above standard, I would assume is ok for ~200,000 km (120,000 mi).
Wow, getting all 4 cylinders with the same results. I would be skeptical as the odds of that seem astounding. Possible, but unlikely. Did you check pressure with and with out adding oil to the cylinder?
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 08, 2016, 04:22:52 PM
Did you check pressure with and with out adding oil to the cylinder?
I didn't bother as the GYSM and the Clymer suggested to do it only if the compression was near or below the minimum of 128psi. Is it necessary to do this check even if the compresson is nominal? (albeit strangely uniform).
I can do it after I inspect the shims this weekend.
Quote from: PaulG on November 08, 2016, 05:15:55 PM
I didn't bother as the GYSM and the Clymer suggested to do it only if the compression was near or below the minimum of 128psi. Is it necessary to do this check even if the compresson is nominal? (albeit strangely uniform).
I can do it after I inspect the shims this weekend.
That makes sense, if the compression numbers are good then the oil test may not give you different results. If possible make sure the gauge physically reads past 150. The numbers may go past 150 but if the gauge has an issue and maxes out then that could explain your numbers. It would also mean your numbers are possibly better than 150 on some cylinders. A bit of a reach, if I think of anything else I will post up.
Quote from: PaulG on November 08, 2016, 05:15:55 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on November 08, 2016, 04:22:52 PM
Did you check pressure with and with out adding oil to the cylinder?
I didn't bother as the GYSM and the Clymer suggested to do it only if the compression was near or below the minimum of 128psi. Is it necessary to do this check even if the compresson is nominal? (albeit strangely uniform).
I can do it after I inspect the shims this weekend.
Dead even compression readings are not that rare over 4 cylinders nor is higher than average readings and as you say, no need to test any further. I've seen 160 even on all cylinders on an FJ (and other engines).
That motor must have had a good life. The benefits of a high cold start/mileage ratio and frequent oil changes (any kind) really start to show up as the miles stack up.
Looks like you've got a really sweet engine there.
Noel
I did a comp test on my 1100 (Wiseco 1219) three weeks ago, the figures were *1 185psi, *2 180psi, *3 190psi and*4 195 psi. This helps explain the hp and torque figures I have gotten from the Dyno testing. Must be testing the genuine Yamaha cylinder studs.
Regards, Pete.
Quote from: oldktmdude on November 09, 2016, 04:00:39 AM
I did a comp test on my 1100 (Wiseco 1219) three weeks ago, the figures were *1 185psi, *2 180psi, *3 190psi and*4 195 psi. This helps explain the hp and torque figures I have gotten from the Dyno testing. Must be testing the genuine Yamaha cylinder studs.
Regards, Pete.
Nice numbers Pete, another 100psi and you could turn it into a diesel.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on November 09, 2016, 04:50:00 AM
Nice numbers Pete, another 100psi and you could turn it into a diesel.
Noel
No wonder my starter motor struggles sometimes.
Finally able to measure my valve clearances:
#1 #2 #3 #4 SPEC
Ex 0.23 & 0.18-0.20 0.18-0.20 (both) 0.15-0.18 (both) 0.15-0.18 (both) 0.16-0.20
I/L 0.13-0.15 (both) 0.10-0.13 & 0.13 0.10-0.13 & 0.13-0.15 0.10-0.13 (both) 0.11-0.15
The left Ex #1 has a 278 installed and the GYSM chart states a 280-285 replacement. I just saw the updated fjowners pdf chart and it suggests a 282 replacement. So I go with the 282 if available?
The right side Ex #1 and both Ex #2 are near the top end of spec. I guess they will need checking.... at the end of next season?
Got around to replacing that one exhaust shim today. Since I only needed one, the Yamaha dealer gave me a replacement 285 shim for free cuz I'm a "regular". After rotating the engine a few cycles the new clearance changed from .23 to between .18 - .20 (spec .16 - .20). Warmed the bike up and did a carb synch after also. Didn't have time to take her for a run though. Rush hour was starting and I had to make my way from downtown out to my 'burb.
So that's settled (hopefully). That's my only major mechanical issue to deal with before next spring. The rest of my fiddling will be re-arranging my slip-ons so they are tucked in better than the flying-V they are now. Then take care of some plastic. My front fender mounts are crumbling - again - so maybe fabbing up a fiberglass fender will keep me busy this winter. Maybe an RPM fork brace for Xmas too... :mail1:
Has anyone tried using a Flexible Exhaust Pipe (https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/EXT41793) or Flexible Exhaust Tubing (https://www.napaonline.com/p/EXT46972) similar to these for the mid-pipe between the collector box and exhaust can? If so, are there any motorcycle specific items out there or would automotive do. I have read they may rot out eventually. Did a quick google on it and didn't come up with much specific for m/c's other than custom HD's.
Took the plunge and bought some flex pipe for the exhaust mid-pipes. I wanted to shorten up the length of the system and reduce that Flying V look that my system has now. Word of caution - just because the box say 2" ID doesn't mean it is! FFS! :ireful: I only bought one pipe initially to to see if it would actually work, and bought some adapter fittings that wouldn't fit due to this. Caued me multiple wasted trips back & forth to try different adapters and T-bolt clamps until I realized the pipe diameter was wrong. Garrrggghhh! :dash2:
But once that was out of the way... I realized the flex pipe fits right over the existing gasket on the collector box. I had to cut a V into the pipe so it would actually clamp on, otherwise it would just slip off. The slip-on used a 2" pipe as an adaptor, and then the same V notch in the flex pipe with a liberal usage of exhaust cement. This has allowed me to move the slip-ons forward about 6 inches to better match the stock location. About $50 worth of material in total. The flex pipe may not last more than a few seasons, so I've been told, but they were only $15 each. If it all goes to shit I still have my SS bent pipes that I removed to do this.
(http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/zz315/pgirard005/2016-12-08%2014.28.40_zpsjvjldnce.jpg) (http://s839.photobucket.com/user/pgirard005/media/2016-12-08%2014.28.40_zpsjvjldnce.jpg.html)
I bent up some SS flat bar for a bracket to use the stock exhaust mounts. I'm debating to change that to something more straight down to the can. Initially I thought to keep the clamp as far to the middle of the can as possible. This gives a bit more flex in the mount, but I haven't had a chance to take her for a run yet - and probably won't for several months as winter is settling in now. :cray: Gadzooks - just looked outside and it's snowing now.
(http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/zz315/pgirard005/2016-12-08%2014.28.16_zpsc74virrm.jpg) (http://s839.photobucket.com/user/pgirard005/media/2016-12-08%2014.28.16_zpsc74virrm.jpg.html)
That is sort-of complete for now. Got my RPM fork brace last week and popped it on too. Now I will have to polish up the rest of the bike to match it... :blush:
Next the rear fender hugger. I bought this (alleged) '87 Honda CBR1000 hugger during the summer from the wrecker who was closing up shop.
(http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/zz315/pgirard005/2016-08-29%2013.47.23_zps0aausuin.jpg) (http://s839.photobucket.com/user/pgirard005/media/2016-08-29%2013.47.23_zps0aausuin.jpg.html)
At first I had to hack off about an inch from the front L (chain guard) and front R. Needed to do this cuz it woudn't rotate forward under sub frame and was getting stuck. Once that was done the R side had to be hacked off cuz it wouldn't fit over the rear brake arm and brake line. But the original rear mounting point for the chain guard lined up perfectly, and the width of the unit is more or less OK. The R rear of the hugger lined up with the break arm mount for the rear calper. So I drilled a hole and used the mounting bolt for that.
(http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/zz315/pgirard005/2016-12-08%2017.10.49_zpszqkwwanv.jpg) (http://s839.photobucket.com/user/pgirard005/media/2016-12-08%2017.10.49_zpszqkwwanv.jpg.html)
(http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/zz315/pgirard005/2016-12-08%2017.11.11_zpsw7naboan.jpg) (http://s839.photobucket.com/user/pgirard005/media/2016-12-08%2017.11.11_zpsw7naboan.jpg.html)
I used a pair of tin snips to cut it off so I will have to smooth it out later with that watchamacallit saw I have. :unknown: By doing this I have effectively removed most of the mounting points on the R side, outside of the rear one. I'll see if I can bodge up something later for the R front of the hugger. On the left there are two more mounting points still there. I need to bend up a small L-bracket to attach to the swing arm.
(http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/zz315/pgirard005/2016-12-08%2017.23.15_zpsrur0bavy.jpg) (http://s839.photobucket.com/user/pgirard005/media/2016-12-08%2017.23.15_zpsrur0bavy.jpg.html)
A question I have is: Is there an adhesive I could use that would stick the bracket to the swing arm? I've used JB weld on some things (like the fender tabs) but I found that too brittle. Maybe I didn't let it cure long enough before putting them back together. I would prefer not to drill a hole and screw one on. As a last resort I could remove the swing arm and get some welded on. But that's like ... work... man... :pardon:
Finally, due to cutting an inch off the front of the chain guard, there is some of the chain exposed. The hugger guard was already shorter than the FJ one. I did a quick measure and there is now about a 4"-5" difference. Basically from the swing arm guard forward the chain is exposed. Will this matter? The original front mount for the chain guard is on the other side of this. If it's an issue I can bend up a piece of PVC sheet with a heat gun at work and use that mount and the ones on the front for the swing arm guard (with longer screws).
(http://i839.photobucket.com/albums/zz315/pgirard005/2016-12-08%2017.25.21_zpse90hiziv.jpg) (http://s839.photobucket.com/user/pgirard005/media/2016-12-08%2017.25.21_zpse90hiziv.jpg.html)
Any suggestions greatly appreciated. :drinks:
Quote from: PaulG on December 08, 2016, 08:31:37 PM
A question I have is: Is there an adhesive I could use that would stick the bracket to the swing arm? I've used JB weld on some things (like the fender tabs) but I found that too brittle. Maybe I didn't let it cure long enough before putting them back together. I would prefer not to drill a hole and screw one on. As a last resort I could remove the swing arm and get some welded on. But that's like ... work... man... :pardon:
Don't be shy about drilling into the swing arm.......
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5345/17185127196_08c94c71cf_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8823/17271407356_f1198661c6_c.jpg)
There's no reason not to and it makes mounting the hugger much easier. I made the brackets from 1.6mm ally strap. I don't believe adhesive is a satisfactory fix for this application and a couple of screw holes is not going to have any effect on the swing arm.
Noel
Thanks for the info and pic. :good: Did you used self-tapping screws, or did you have to tap them manually?
Quote from: PaulG on December 09, 2016, 09:11:32 AM
Thanks for the info and pic. :good: Did you used self-tapping screws, or did you have to tap them manually?
Yes, self tapping SS metal threads. They have been on there for a lot of miles by now and despite the hugger flexing when it hits the subframe, they have not come loose. Two I drilled into the aluminium brackets did though, so I replaced them with nuts and bolts.
Noel
I see there are pretty existing holes in the swing arm. From your pic it looks like you used a couple. I measured it with some calipers and got 5.4-5.6mm. I checked it with a tap and it looks like an M7 would fit. Do you remember what size screws you used ?
You have the underslung gsxr brake arm. Mine is stock with the break arm in the way which may make additional r-side support difficult, but not impossible. if I can utilize what's available the better. If I need to drill I will.