Well, I've postponed this as much as I could. Since the clutch slave on my 1985 was leaking more and more, it was time to repair it. I knew this day would come, so I had everything ready: repair kit from Tourmax, new braided clutch line. Everything went well. Sorry, no pictures today, I was too busy. Piston and slave cylinder look good. There was some red resin like gunk in the slave, clearly marking a border to where the piston went in and out. I managed to polish everything nicely with a metal polishing paste and assembled it without any problems. Fluid was an oil-like thing, with a lot of precipitate in the master cylinder. It seems the slave was leaking for a while or something because it seems like the engine oil or chain lubricant got inside. I have no idea how. Anyway, I cleaned everything thoroughly and put a new line on. Line is whole, without the need for the metal pipe that is originally on, so I removed it. I noticed it tends to touch the head every once in a while. Does any one of you see there a potential problem?
Anyway, just when I was planning to bleed it I broke my only 8mm wrench and everything halted 'til tomorrow.
Beside that I put a new gasket underneath the front sprocket cover. One nut was missing on an engine mount and one on a center stand. I had those and put them on.
Tomorrow is a bleeding time! :yahoo:
I wrapped my ss line with foil tape and zip tied it on the frame rail to keep it away from the head.
I'm not concerned so much with heat, but with friction. The vibrating engine contacting the ss line, can abrade a hole in the line after some time.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 17, 2016, 12:29:40 PM
I wrapped my ss line with foil tape and zip tied it on the frame rail to keep it away from the head.
I'm not concerned so much with heat, but with friction. The vibrating engine contacting the ss line, can abrade a hole in the line after some time.
Yeah , I just noticed the line was rubbing on the head yesterday and moved it away just in time .
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 17, 2016, 12:29:40 PM
I wrapped my ss line with foil tape and zip tied it on the frame rail to keep it away from the head.
I'm not concerned so much with heat, but with friction. The vibrating engine contacting the ss line, can abrade a hole in the line after some time.
I was also planning to tie it, but the only zip ties I had were too small. I need to get larger ones.
Quote from: balky1 on September 18, 2016, 02:42:14 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 17, 2016, 12:29:40 PM
I wrapped my ss line with foil tape and zip tied it on the frame rail to keep it away from the head.
I'm not concerned so much with heat, but with friction. The vibrating engine contacting the ss line, can abrade a hole in the line after some time.
I was also planning to tie it, but the only zip ties I had were too small. I need to get larger ones.
.....or, you could take the mod one step further and fit a solid line clipped to the frame where it passes the head. :biggrin:
Noel
I bled the clutch today. Unbelievably easy. So easy it smells like something's wrong. :bomb:
I filled the slave with a syringe first. After that, all was piece of cake. Pump-pump-open cca. 20-30 times.
My god, how the clutch is smooth running now... Never felt so smooth before. It engages and dissengages perfectly, so it seems good.
I never understood why anyone would want to eliminate the solid metal one anyway. I know that most of the stainless kits come that way because it's easier/cheaper to make.
I needed a slightly longer upper hose (to take advantage of sliding my bars up for touring) So I ordered custom from spiegler. Steal flexes even less than SS braided?
Quote from: giantkiller on September 18, 2016, 08:41:58 AM
I never understood why anyone would want to eliminate the solid metal one anyway.
I did it on the '92 to eliminate 2 connections in the hydraulic system...
Frank
Quote from: giantkiller on September 18, 2016, 08:41:58 AM
I never understood why anyone would want to eliminate the solid metal one anyway. I know that most of the stainless kits come that way because it's easier/cheaper to make.
I needed a slightly longer upper hose (to take advantage of sliding my bars up for touring) So I ordered custom from spiegler. Steal flexes even less than SS braided?
That's the type of hose I got. It was cheap to be honest, from JMT. I actually had no idea will it be in two pieces to connect it to the steel one or in one piece. In one piece it came. For that price, I asked no more questions.
And yes, eliminating 2 possible leakage places is always a bonus when you work with good paint dissolver like DOT4. :bye2:
Quote from: Flynt on September 18, 2016, 09:39:18 AM
Quote from: giantkiller on September 18, 2016, 08:41:58 AM
I never understood why anyone would want to eliminate the solid metal one anyway.
I did it on the '92 to eliminate 2 connections in the hydraulic system...
Frank
Frank, I just
have to ask, what's the advantage in eliminating 2 connections?
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on September 19, 2016, 10:32:47 AM
Quote from: Flynt on September 18, 2016, 09:39:18 AM
Quote from: giantkiller on September 18, 2016, 08:41:58 AM
I never understood why anyone would want to eliminate the solid metal one anyway.
I did it on the '92 to eliminate 2 connections in the hydraulic system...
Frank
Frank, I just have to ask, what's the advantage in eliminating 2 connections?
Noel
Two less places for brake fluid make their way onto your paint...
To clarify, I replaced the lines when I rebuilt the '92 completely. I wouldn't take apart two good connections to eliminate them, but when I was buying the braided lines I bought 1 long one with two connections instead of two shorter ones with 4 connections.
Frank