Hey !
I repaired the clutch slave cylinder on my 1TX about 2 years ago. It was leaking. Classic FJ issue. I used the Tourmax repair kit. After about 8000 Km run, the cylinder leaks again. So tell me guys, wich repair kit is the best of all ?
Hi there!
This will take care of it. Sometimes when the bore is rusted due to moisture content in the fluid, they will never seal properly again no matter how many kits you install.
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3A5EA-16381-00%3A36y-16381-00 (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3A5EA-16381-00%3A36y-16381-00)
Dean
Quote from: Tor-King on September 02, 2016, 01:49:44 PM
Sometimes when the bore is rusted due to moisture content in the fluid, they will never seal properly again no matter how many kits you install.
Yes, Dean is correct, although the aluminum bore gets corroded/pitted.
A quick clean up with this brake slave hone tool on a cordless drill helps clean up the bore.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/1/49_14_12_10_5_34_08.jpeg)
However, as Dean said, sometimes the damage is too severe and you need a new slave
Quote from: Vilike on September 02, 2016, 12:19:09 PM
I repaired the clutch slave cylinder on my 1TX about 2 years ago. It was leaking... After about 8000 Km run, the cylinder leaks again. So tell me guys, wich repair kit is the best of all ?
How many times do you want to play this game? Flush the brake and clutch fluid every year; replace the clutch slave every 5 years. Consider it "Maintenance."
Bill
Quote from: CutterBill on September 02, 2016, 04:22:24 PM
Quote from: Vilike on September 02, 2016, 12:19:09 PM
I repaired the clutch slave cylinder on my 1TX about 2 years ago. It was leaking... After about 8000 Km run, the cylinder leaks again. So tell me guys, wich repair kit is the best of all ?
How many times do you want to play this game? Flush the brake and clutch fluid every year; replace the clutch slave every 5 years. Consider it "Maintenance."
Bill
+1 Bill on replace the clutch slave, I have probably replaced 5, last time was last year and I was told it might be silver but a black unit turned up :yes:
I have used a kit before with no success but I have not seen or used a brake slave hone tool, where do you get those from? I could try it on the spare units I have on the shelf!
Alan
Many have used DOT 5 fluid in their clutch systems with success. It seems to preserve the slave from any pitting as it is a synthetic and inhibits moisture. The bonus is that if the slave does leak, it wont destroy your paint and cowling. The only thing is the entire line and master must be flushed as it cannot be mixed with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1
Dean
Quote from: Sparky84 on September 03, 2016, 05:32:06 AM
Quote from: CutterBill on September 02, 2016, 04:22:24 PM
Quote from: Vilike on September 02, 2016, 12:19:09 PM
I repaired the clutch slave cylinder on my 1TX about 2 years ago. It was leaking... After about 8000 Km run, the cylinder leaks again. So tell me guys, wich repair kit is the best of all ?
How many times do you want to play this game? Flush the brake and clutch fluid every year; replace the clutch slave every 5 years. Consider it "Maintenance."
Bill
+1 Bill on replace the clutch slave, I have probably replaced 5, last time was last year and I was told it might be silver but a black unit turned up :yes:
I have used a kit before with no success but I have not seen or used a brake slave hone tool, where do you get those from? I could try it on the spare units I have on the shelf!
Alan
I used to advise replacing the seal once only then replace the complete unit next time.
Having seen and read the "clean up" practices employed by many, and consequently the life they are getting out of them, I think the better advice is just replace the cylinder, they are not expensive.
Pat, having a cylinder hone is only half the fix. Knowing how to use it is the other half. As they go in a power drill, like any power tool, they are capable of big damage in a small amount of time. I know this because I've seen it done. A simple tool with an obvious use, but that doesn't mean you can't stuff it up, and people do. The right tool in the wrong hands can make a bigger mess than no tool at all.
Bill, I'm not sure I'd go as far as to suggest replacing it every 5 years (you're thinking like an aircraft mechanic :biggrin:), they last a lot better than that and they don't just fail and leave you stranded, they progressively start leaking. I know of one FJ still on the original cylinder and has only had one seal replaced (the current one) over 23 years/160,000kms.
Noel
Quote from: Tor-King on September 03, 2016, 09:32:22 AM
Many have used DOT 5 fluid in their clutch systems with success. It seems to preserve the slave from any pitting as it is a synthetic and inhibits moisture. The bonus is that if the slave does leak, it wont destroy your paint and cowling. The only thing is the entire line and master must be flushed as it cannot be mixed with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1
Dean
DOT 5 does not inhibit, it rejects it so the fluid and water do not mix. All the other DOT fluids absorb the water. The real advantage to DOT 5 is not damaging the paint. Regular maintenance (flush) is recommended for either type.
It's all about perspective...
Sometimes when we are wondering why a person has a particular opinion on a subject, it helps to know their previous life's experiences. Now, as for me: I have 3 project FJ's, a WR400 that needs a new cam, a 4WD Jeep that I am rebuilding back to new, I'm building a welding table for my shop, I have a Bonanza in my shop that is getting a new engine, prop and instrument panel, and I'm doing a landing gear overhaul/rig on a Cessna 310 at the local airport 12 miles away. And I have a full-time job (engineer at a place that makes trains, if you can believe that. :dash2:) Which is to say... I'm busy.
When Mike (streetmasters) comes over to my house, he just shakes his head. His frequent comment is "Dude, you're nuts." But I digress...
Anyway, as I said, I'm busy. I really don't want to spend my time working on my toys; I want to spend my time riding/driving my toys. So, when one of my toys develops a problem (leaking clutch slave) I just want to fix it ONCE and be done with it. I really don't want to spend the time to take it apart, clean, hone, fiddle, reassemble, bleed... hmmm, still leaks. Let's rebuild it again... No. I want to pull off the old one, bolt on a new one, and ride away.
Now, I do have a job that pays me reasonably well, and I fully understand that a lot of people don't have the luxury of so much disposable income* that they can buy a new part every time one fails. Sure, I get that. At times in my life when I didn't have 2 dimes to rub together, I came up with some pretty creative "fixes" to keep my wheels turning. But if there is anyway you can afford a new slave cylinder, just buy it and be done with it.
Here's another perspective... long ago, when I was a kid blasting all over Texas on my Honda 350, the engine blew up in far west Texas. I lived in east Texas. If you don't know, Texas is big. It took me 3 days to hitchhike home. (Yeah, we did that back then.) That experience left such an impression on my young mind that I now make every one of my cars/bikes as perfect as possible. Breaking down on the road truly sucks. I do NOT want to be broke-down in East Muleshoe, Wyoming. In the rain. On a holiday weekend...
Anyway, that's my opinion. It's all about perspective.
Bill
*and if you're wondering why I have all of this disposable income, it's not because my job pays so well. It doesn't. The reason I have it is because I don't have a wife, I don't have kids, I don't have a girlfriend...I don't even have a dog. (Well... I did but he died.) I don't need a gold-digging DreamKiller in my life. (Buy me a beer and I'll tell you the story about how, long ago, my boss was dating my gf behind my back.) :rofl: And I'm fairly frugal; don't need a lot of "stuff." So there ya go. Wow, how did we drift into that subject? Probably too much coffee... Somebody stop me... :flag_of_truce:
....or you could follow Simon's lead (Earl Svorks) and press in a Stainless Steel sleeve in the bore of the slave and have (other than seals) a life time part.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=12294.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=12294.0)
What is a good way to flush the brake system and change to DOT 5?
Quote from: ct7088 on September 03, 2016, 01:59:30 PM
What is a good way to flush the brake system and change to DOT 5?
I took the master & slave off, flushed both and the hoses with brake cleaner, used fresh washers and refilled. I Cycled the master with brake cleaner and took the slave apart to flush.
Quote from: Tor-King on September 03, 2016, 09:32:22 AM
Many have used DOT 5 fluid in their clutch systems with success. It seems to preserve the slave from any pitting as it is a synthetic and inhibits moisture. The bonus is that if the slave does leak, it wont destroy your paint and cowling. The only thing is the entire line and master must be flushed as it cannot be mixed with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1
Dean
I swapped my '89 clutch over to DOT5 a few years ago when I rebuilt the slave and added the YZF750 m/c and braided line. Leon can tell you what year it was... we headed out to his first FJ rally right after.
It hasn't required anything since... :pardon:
What brake cleaner?
Any type of brake cleaner for rotors/calipers would work. I like using the Gunk cleaner.
Flush the system with isopropyl alcohol. Being water based, it will flush the residual DOT 3/4 and evaporate quickly.
Blow off with compressed air.
I wonder if I'm the odd man out here. I bought my '92 FJ in '07 with about 70,000 km on it. It now has about 240,000 km on it. I have yet to take the clutch slave apart. Other than bleeding every couple of years I haven't touched it, and I doubt the three PO's before did anything, judging by the state of the bike when I got it.
I did buy a rebuild kit for it when I rebuilt the brakes during the winter of '07/'08, but never got around to doing anything with it. I'm afraid that if I did service it, then it would start pissing out fluid. So I'm letting sleeping dogs lie for now. I'm due for a valve clearance check/adjustment this winter so maybe I'll get around to it then... maybe... possibly... :scratch_one-s_head:
It must have been built on a Wednesday I think.
The bleed port on the slave is at the top of the chamber. Makes sense because that's where the air is...
Water however collects at the bottom of the chamber.
What I do is to unbolt the slave (leave line attached) and flip it upside down. I leave it that way for a day or two so the water collects now at the top, by the bleed port. Open up the port and out comes the water.
Pat, that is an awesome tip-- thanks! I am going to do that when it is time for a fluid change.
Dean
What I tried last time (remember, it's DOT5, so no paint issues) was left the s/c bleed nipple closed, and filled the m/c until fluid came out of the line. Then I put the cover on the m/c and filled the s/c through the banjo bolt hole (straight up), attached the line finger tight, bolted on the s/c. and tightened the line. Just a few strokes of the lever to bleed the tiny bit of air out.
Good tip Randy. I know when I installed my new slave cylinder a few months back I spent ages filling/reverse filling/spilling/swearing to get pressure at the lever. It was messy. :rofl2: Totally drained blue spots on the other hand are a cinch :unknown:
But yes, after 3 seal kits in a period of 4 years, then its time to bin the old, put on a new.
Paul, no I don't think you're the odd man out. Left alone, with regular fluid changes, it should last a very long time. I've been through more engines (literally) than slave cylinders.
Pat, if you fit a SS liner you pretty much eliminate seal replacement as well.
Mark, choosing brake fluid based on mitigating damage next time it fails. The slave should only be something you need to do once of maybe twice in the entire life of the bike.
For those that can't be bothered changing to or don't like Dot 5, Dot 3 & 4 continue to be developed and are vastly improved and less corrosive than the stuff we were putting in our bikes years ago.
As Bill said, do it once, do it right, then forget about it for the next few hundred thousand km's.
And for those having bleeding difficulties, the FJ clutch will self bleed quite quickly with a bit of use. If you can get enough clutch to get it out the door, it will come good.
Noel
Clutch mastercylinders and slaves can be bought through Yamaha still. New. I just got mine about 2 months ago. Mastercylinder was knackered