My headlight often requires several on/off ignition switch operations to illuminate and I fear that it will leave me in the dark some dark and rainy night. Rather than just fix the immediate problem I'd like to do the "head light mod" (relays) and - unless otherwise advised by you good folks - eliminate the reserve lighting unit while I'm in there.
My searches for threads describing how to perform those tasks produced lots of results with references to the mods but nothing resembling instructions.
If there is a thread (or threads) with that info would somebody kindly point me to it?
I'd sure appreciate it.
Thank you
Happy Trails
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=660.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=660.0)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2033.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2033.0)
Where would you go to get info on modifications? Hmmmm...
Did you check our Modification Files?
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2033.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2033.0)
You can buy the components and build a harness yourself with the above info, or you can buy one already made for you... http://www.easternbeaver.com/ (http://www.easternbeaver.com/)
That said, I think your troubles are elsewhere. Sounds like you have a switching problem that a relay harness will not correct.
Thanks Pat. Do you suspect the main switch to be the problem? Or perhaps a loose connection? Any suggestions as to where I should look for this Gremlin?
thanks to all. I was hoping to locate a step-by-step instructional (with photos if possible), if anyone knows of such a thing, since it will all look like spaghetti to me. Looks like I have some homework to do. I'll jump the main switch to locate or eliminate that as a problem before I go further.
Any tips will be deeply appreciated.
Quote from: Burns on September 02, 2016, 10:04:08 AM
Thanks Pat. Do you suspect the main switch to be the problem? Or perhaps a loose connection? Any suggestions as to where I should look for this Gremlin?
After 30 years and 150k miles, my ignition key switch just wore out (they do that) and just like yours, mine started giving me warnings.
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%20flatkeyswitch-1.jpg)
$40 later I am good to go...
I have another one on my parts bike, so that's the first thing I'll check. The bike starts and I'm wondering if the headlight interrupt for cranking is the problem. There's a switch in the circuit that opens or closes in response to alternator current, i.e kicks the headlight out of the circuit with a dead engine and in with a running motor, isn't there?
Correct, there is a starter relay that drops out the headlight when the starter button is pushed and the starter motor is energized.
However, that is not what you described.
Quote from: Burns on September 02, 2016, 02:00:13 AM
My headlight often requires several on/off ignition switch operations to illuminate
My bad, Pat. My description was incomplete. The problem is intermittent; I just went out to check it and everything is working correctly. But my recollection is that the headlight usually comes on when the ignition switch is turned to on - though I think sometimes just the pilot light comes on, the headlight goes out when I crank the engine, and sometimes does not come back on when the motor fires up.
It sounds like a relay issue. Where is that headlight interrupt rascal located?
Common problem is that your starter button does not fully pop back out when you release it. This will interrupt your headlight. Clean it first.
The starter relay on my '84 is above the engine in front of the battery box.
That makes absolute sense. Sometimes the starter motor "hangs" - no doubt because of that same button. Weak spring maybe? I think you've put me straight on this one. Thanks much.
Yep, along with a dark headlight, a hanging starter is a sure symptom of a sticky start button.
well I see the light now and it is (wait for it) right on the button.
Hopefully it's an easy fix, but if you do any riding at night keep considering the relay mod.
I'm planning on doing it this Winter. I have what will probably be my last ride of the Season coming up in a couple weeks and have plenty to do from now to then - Pat's insight was a life-saver - but after that I'll take her shirt off and brighten up her candles.
Quote from: Burns on September 03, 2016, 03:35:47 PM
I'm planning on doing it this Winter. I have what will probably be my last ride of the Season coming up in a couple weeks and have plenty to do from now to then - Pat's insight was a life-saver - but after that I'll take her shirt off and brighten up her candles.
Meanwhile, maybe try spraying some electronic contact cleaner into the gaps between the button and the housing and with the key off, work the switch repeatedly until it's reliably recovering all the way out every time. My switch got stuck half in - half out, four years ago. Three or four shots of contact cleaner with the little red plastic tube to concentrate the squirts and I haven't had to give it a thought ever since.
Try using LPS-1 it softened up the dirt enough to wipe the contact surfaces clean. Switch has worked for two years also worked for the turn signal switch. A single 40 amp relay used as a bypass of the main switch battery circuit cures headlight and coil voltage supply problem. My headlight is bright(as a standard bulb can be) all the time and the turn signal never makes the bike die at a intersection.
Chris
Does the headlight relay make a lot of difference as far as brightness goes? If so how much? %
I thought the FJ already had a headlight relay. I turn on the light switch and hear a "click" which sounds like a relay. Never bothered to investigate it though.
The difference is going to depend on how much power you are losing at the moment. It's even possible you are not losing much at all. Getting familiar with a voltmeter will eliminate some guess work. With a voltmeter to compare the voltage directly across the battery to any voltage else where on the motorcycle will clue you in. e.g. I found that the leads at the headlight socket were 2 volts lower than what was at the battery. This pic can give some idea of what that translates to with before and after, inside a workshop with the rest of the shop lights turned off. That is with a standard halogen bulb and the distance to the door at the back wall is about 25 to 30 feet (It's been several years now - I'm estimating).
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag17/Charliebrm/Lighting/headlight_relay_before_after_zpsa79b21bf.jpg)
Where is best to mount the headlight relay.? Around the battery area?
Quote from: Jeff0308 on October 14, 2016, 04:09:04 PM
Where is best to mount the headlight relay.? Around the battery area?
That is one of the good things about adding relays. Put them where you can access them if things stop working. They tend to be very reliable but they can fail. Make testing easy and quick. The battery area is a great place once the air box is out and pod filters are in.