Went to install my new LED headlight bulb and found my socket was fried. My low beam blew out a couple of weeks ago, but the high beam was still OK.
I checked the '92 ABS microfiche and there is no part number. I think it's just included within the general wiring harness. Is this a specific Yamaha part or will any auto store plug work?
Front fairing is off, so I'm stuck at the moment.
Search for a ceramic socket posted here for the higher wattage lamps.
Found it http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2033.msg16000#msg16000 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2033.msg16000#msg16000)
Hmmm, nasty. Which ever way you go on a replacement plug, put some dielectric grease in the new socket's terminals.
Look for a PM from me.
That failure looks familiar, it happened to me. The plug was loose and the connection arch'ed current, not good for the bulb or the plastic plug.
Make sure, what ever H4 connector you use, that it has a positive click lock on the spades of the bulb.
Without this click lock, vibration will work the connector loose and aching will begin....again.
I bought a pair of eBay ceramic plugs but they did not click lock and yep, they failed....again.
There are a few sources for a H4 replacement connector.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-ATV-HEADLIGHT-SOCKET-REPAIR-KIT-H4-CUSTOM-CONVERSION-/281264736659 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-ATV-HEADLIGHT-SOCKET-REPAIR-KIT-H4-CUSTOM-CONVERSION-/281264736659)
https://www.amazon.com/Female-Ceramic-Harness-Headlight-Sockets/dp/B00C92Y4AO/ref=sr_1_1/153-0160029-4910728?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472271402&sr=1-1&keywords=h4+connector (https://www.amazon.com/Female-Ceramic-Harness-Headlight-Sockets/dp/B00C92Y4AO/ref=sr_1_1/153-0160029-4910728?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472271402&sr=1-1&keywords=h4+connector)
http://headlightbulbs.net/adjure-h4-sck-motorcycle-and-automotive-h4-headlight-bulb-socket-and-wire-harness/ (http://headlightbulbs.net/adjure-h4-sck-motorcycle-and-automotive-h4-headlight-bulb-socket-and-wire-harness/)
I can not claim any one is better than another as I have had no experience with any of these.
Fred
Thanks for the input from everyone. Eventually went to the local Canadian Tire (i.e. Crappy Tire) - our national heritage "auto parts" outlet - though they sell more blenders than anything else. Once I bought the H4 connector I realized it was only three blade connectors in a plastic housing. Could have made one for 2 cents. But Oh Well :scratch_one-s_head:
I haven't done any soldering in a long while - mainly because I don't have a soldering iron - so I had to buy one of those too. So off comes the fairing using the "10 minute" procedure for the first time, so it took a bit longer than that but waaayyyy better than the 1/2 a day using the Clymer/Haynes method. I also found that I am missing the two front lower fairing mounting screws/washers (P/N 90159-06085-00) and steel collars (P/N 90387-093H1-00), and the left rear/upper collar. Hmmmm... maybe I've discovered why my fairing buzzes.... :sarcastic:. Where or how they went - who knows? Time to scrounge around.
I am also wary of my short term memory and have learned the hard way too many times. It's amazing what how you can forget what you did about 23 sec ago. Once everything was set up on my wooden crate work bench I nipped/stripped/soldered one wire at a time - and managed not to forget the shrink tube in the process! :i_am_so_happy: I also wrapped the H4 connection with some electrical tape as there wasn't a locking tab.
This is also directly related to the post by fellow member Nova (a BIG thank you) Doing LED light upgrade right (Front End) (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=15523.0), because I used this as a chance to upgrade to this H4 LED Motorcycle Headlight Kit (http://www.xenondepot.com/H4-LED-motorcycle-headlight-kit-p/h4-led-mhl.htm) from Xenon Depot. They have a search by vehicle function which makes choosing a breeze, 1992 FJ1200 (http://www.xenondepot.com/1992-fj1200-hid-headlight-kit-bulbs-s/20092.htm). Oh yeah I also put in the LED brake lights (http://www.xenondepot.com/1157-BA15d-LED-360-putco-bulb-p/231157w-360.htm). Simple and easy and work great.
When I took the original halogen out ther didn't seem to be any damage. All the filaments seemd to be intact, but since I already had the LED installed I've decided to put it on the shelf for now. I sat the fairing on the front fender and plugged the cables back in and voila - it works! Since it was daylight I couldn't tell how it was aiming etc., but I did take a look at it from about 2 inches away as I flicked the high beam on/off. I thought that didn't seem too bright, until I went inside for a minute and all I saw was white spots floating in the air! :wacko3: Waited until dark and did a slight adjustment downwards and took a quick trip aorund a few blocks to see how it looked. So it seems everything is fine for now.
There was some initial sticker shock but when you realize this bulb will probably outlast me, and is one of the simplest upgrades, it is great value for the money.
Quote from: PaulG on August 28, 2016, 09:00:49 PM
.......So off comes the fairing using the "10 minute" procedure for the first time, so it took a bit longer than that but waaayyyy better than the 1/2 a day using the Clymer/Haynes method.
This applies to many procedures in workshop manuals and always has. I used to have shelves full of them. It was the norm to buy one for all the popular models of the day or a one-off for something unusual if major work was to be carried out and I recently threw out about 40 of them, just kept a few interesting or unusual ones. I kept a couple just for the artwork (those beautiful pre-computor hand (machine) drawn technical diagrams) that were always discreetly signed by the artist.
You could complicate just about any job by a factor of 4 by following the procedure as described in the manual.
For example, I believe the FJ manual tells you to remove the fairing to check the valve clearances and then proceeds to describe the most difficult way to remove it.
They are written by engineers who design them, not mechanics who work on them.
However, for those looking for some guidance, they are a great resource, get the the job done and many, like Paul, discover easier ways of doing it in the process.
In modern times, these convoluted job descriptions have very generous "standard times" applied to them by the manufacturer. It has become normal practice to charge those prescribed times for jobs rather than time spent. This enables them to charge out 10..12..14 or more hours for an 8 hr day at $100-$120/hr.
Nice work if you can get it!
Noel
I just ordered 2 of the LED bulbs for $95.99. was going to just get 1 but they were only $64.99 but it gives you the option to change quantity to 2 for +55 and there was a20% off code FLASH20. Now have one for both the 1350r and the 89. :biggrin:
Paul, I'll be looking forward to see first hand how that new LED throws light down the road, if are coming to the Loughborough Camp weekend.
Have you an opinion formed yet of any improvement from the old incandescent bulb? Distance? Pattern hi & lo?
Other than a test run around the block, I haven't been out on the bike since I installed it :cray:. Just from that though, the beam was a lot "crisper" and broader. Since it was in the city I really couldn't tell the total effectiveness of it. I wouldn't say that it's like going from an acetylene lamp to a halogen, but pretty close.
I'll be attending the camp'n'ride. I have the week off so I can arrive early and leave late :drinks:. And I I'll need it if last years hangover was any indication.
Love mine. Lights up the night, and also annoys people enough that they pull over to let me by quite often. :)
The performance increase is noticeable, albeit not spectacular. The low beam is good and wide, with very even brightness across the view. High beam is narrow, but significantly brightens plenty far down the road. I work rotating shifts, and commute all hours of the day/night. I also live in a rural setting and have all the dangers of animals in the road especially in the dark. The high beam allows me to maintain normal speeds with plenty of visibility down the road.