Not a single gauge works on my 91 1200. It lights up but nothing moves. Any ideas where to look?
Possibly a fuse. The speedo runs off the cable so that should still work. Do any lights in the dash illuminate when you start the bike?
The dash lights come on before I start it when the key is on. As far as the speedo, I only took it for its first ride last night. I might have been to excited to look at it.
Just to be clear, dash lights can be the back lights and or the specific lights like low fuel, low oil, turn (left & right), high beam. I am asking about the specific lights. Do any of them illuminate during the start?
The oil light and fuel light are on when cranking it over. Once started only the neutral light stays on
Quote from: barberman91 on August 25, 2016, 11:35:28 AM
The oil light and fuel light are on when cranking it over. Once started only the neutral light stays on
Ok, now we have a good starting point. The general or back lights work. The neutral light, low oil and low fuel light work. Does the High beam indicator light work?
I believe it does. I know the high beam comes on but the regular low beam doesn't work. Idk if it could be related or if it's just a bad bulb.
Quote from: barberman91 on August 25, 2016, 11:43:57 AM
I believe it does. I know the high beam comes on but the regular low beam doesn't work. Idk if it could be related or if it's just a bad bulb.
Check your PM box...
ok the cluster is off of the bike. any way of testing the tach? I cant seem to find any wiring schematic. I'm thinking I could fire up the bike and test for volts if I knew what wires to hook onto.
Quote from: barberman91 on August 27, 2016, 10:41:45 PM
ok the cluster is off of the bike. any way of testing the tach? I cant seem to find any wiring schematic. I'm thinking I could fire up the bike and test for volts if I knew what wires to hook onto.
http://www.fj1100.it/content/download/index.php?lng=ENG (http://www.fj1100.it/content/download/index.php?lng=ENG)
Find Clymer manual here, you have all the wiring diagrams.
The wiring diagram specific to the year of your FJ can also be found in the back of the Owners Handbook.
Lots of good stuff in the Owners Handbook (like how to test your oil/fuel gauge bulbs, etc)
It is a recommended read. It's a free download. See my signature line for the link.
Thanks a lot guys, I'm going to check out the diagrams. I'm also going to check all the wiring at the coils, I've heard that dirty connections there can mess with the tach.
So I looked at the wiring by the coils and found this black ground wire that was cut in half. When I connect the two sides I blow the main fuse. Any ideas?
Picture of wire
Try to follow the wire . Does the wire join another bundle? Is the wire spliced to another wire? The black wire doesn't belong in any of the three connectors in the picture.
Three pin connector is for the main switch (key switch)
Both two pin connectors are for the coils.
The wire goes into this 4 wire connector. The other half leads to an eyelet that grounds to the bottom of the coil.
Is that wire stuck into the same slot as the red wire? If so, then it appears that you're grounding a main lead to ground which will pop any fuse you install.
Maybe the PO used it to tap off of a power source. Using a black wire as a power wire is dumb.
Ohm the other wire to ground. I'll bet you see 0 ohms
Yep, you are right. I wonder what the ground wire was supposed to be hooked to?
Looks like he had some accessory wired in there but removed it before selling the bike. There is 12V switched power and a ground. I guess all he had was black wire.
If you're not going to use the power wire, wrap it in something to prevent it from grounding on something.
Hmm. What a let down. I was hoping it was going to be an easy fix for my tach
I cleaned every connection and used dielectric grease on all of them. When I hook the cluster up I notice the tach bouncing ever so slightly at zero. I'm starting to think it's a cluster issue.
Is there a certain way to test the wiring to the tach with a multi meter?
Find a ground point on the gauge cluster or wiring as close to the cluster as possible and run a separate ground wire from there directly back to the battery.
The gray wire at the tach and the gray wire from the igniter from the 4 pin connector are spliced either at the 17 pin connector or close to it. The motor runs so you know that the connection from the coil to the igniter is good. There should be voltage on the gray tach wire when cranking the motor or when running. The igniter grounds the primary winding causing the coil to fire in response to the pickup coil. Do you have a dwell meter?
I know this is an old thread, but did you ever find a way to static test that tach? I have checked continuity all the way up to the dash on mine and everything looks good. I got a used dash that the owner said the tach worked in and N/G. Did the separate ground on both dash units, still no good. Have not really seen a detailed testing method for the unit itself.
Did you ohm check (not just continuity) the gray signal wire from the #1/4 coil (right side) to your tach?
Pat, Thank you for responding to me. What I did check was the pulses with my VOM set for AC and all was good. I did not check ohms from the coil up to the dash, but I did come up with a solution. I cleaned all the connections on my original dash without success, but I had better luck when I did the same with the replacement dash. That tachometer worked when plugged into the harness so I just swapped them out and I am now in business. The tach with 5000 miles use I am assuming is no good, but the one with ten times that is working. I guess it's a bit like exercise...use it or lose it. Thanks for connecting on it.
Wayne