Ok I finally got my 91 fj1200 running good. The previous owner let it sit for a few years. I went to take it on its first test run and realised that I don't have any resistance in my clutch lever. The fluid seems to be mid way in the window. Do you think it's the master cylinder or the slave cylinder??
Could be either, could be both. :unknown:
Check at the lever end of the m/c plunger and the plastic below (pull back the thin rubber boot)... look for evidence of the leak there.
Check the condition of the paint and plastic below the slave.
After sitting awhile, it'd be a great time to rebuild both, get rid of all that old fluid, and replace what is likely the OEM line.
You'll have a good setup for a while and can turn your attention to improving the stuff under the clutch cover :biggrin:
Good idea. Are there any good write ups on how to do these rebuilds?
Ive seen several guys showing pictures of the slave cylinder but not sure Ive seen a how to? When I started on my bike I had to redo both master and slave as both where leaking. I was able to rebuild my slave cyl but after two attempts on my master it just wanted to keep leaking so I bought a different one. If you dont have a vacuum pump to bleed the system I highly recommend you add one to your tool box, bleeding these M/C hydraulic systems can be a PITA
Quote from: Tuneforkfreak on August 09, 2016, 07:48:32 AM
Ive seen several guys showing pictures of the slave cylinder but not sure Ive seen a how to? When I started on my bike I had to redo both master and slave as both where leaking. I was able to rebuild my slave cyl but after two attempts on my master it just wanted to keep leaking so I bought a different one. If you dont have a vacuum pump to bleed the system I highly recommend you add one to your tool box, bleeding these M/C hydraulic systems can be a PITA
Written instructions in PDF form are available
HERE (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=672.0)
Awesome thanks. I just ordered the rebuild kits. Any other good information on rebuilding the master?
Quote from: barberman91 on August 09, 2016, 01:03:11 PM
Awesome thanks. I just ordered the rebuild kits. Any other good information on rebuilding the master?
A set of long reach snap ring pliers like THESE (http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=snap%20ring%20pliers) would be very handy for the m/c...
I've found that filling the slave with fluid before bolting it on makes bleeding a lot easier (5 mins tops). Admittedly, this is a lot easier to do with DOT5, since you don't have to worry about paint damage.
Make note of the seals' orientation in either unit, as it's easy to forget which way they go. DAMHIKIJKOK?
To further assist and guide you during your rebuild (by adding to Randy's Rick's advise on seal orientation), take special notice of the direction the plunger is facing between the lever and piston rod. Get it in Bass Akwards and you will never feel like you have it bled properly. After 6 attempts to bleed the clutch I took the plunger out and flipped it over. I most likely bled the clutch properly the first time. :dash2: My pain, your gain...
Edit - Sorry Randy (got your PM), long days for me lately. :sorry:
Thanks a lot guys, I'll make sure to take alot of pictures so I won't forget.
I rebuilt the master and slave cylinder, it wasn't hard at all. Now my problem is, when the bike is in first gear and I engage the clutch lever it doesn't free the bike into neutral. My thought is that the clutch plates may be stuck.
Quote from: barberman91 on August 19, 2016, 10:56:04 AM
I rebuilt the master and slave cylinder, it wasn't hard at all. Now my problem is, when the bike is in first gear and I engage the clutch lever it doesn't free the bike into neutral. My thought is that the clutch plates may be stuck.
they might well be stuck. i am wondering what oil you using or have you used any sort of additive.motorcycle oil is best or just multigrade other than synthetic or semi synth.certainly no additives.if you have sorted the master and slave cylinder then problem must lie with the clutch itself. you could always take plates out.soak in oil overnight and reassemble
With the bike in gear, clutch lever in, you sitting on it, rock it forward and backward, don't be too delicate. This will normally un-stick the clutch plates if that is the issue. I had an after market clutch that would stick, hard to find neutral, missed shifts, not good on an '86. When it started slipping I went to stock internals and it is now butter smooth. And just to stir the pot a little, full synth....
(https://cdn.meme.am/instances/500x/57734806.jpg)
I've had to rebuild my clutch master cylinder twice (and brake m/c once) the ten years I've owned my 84 - but it really wasn't that difficult once I got long reach snap ring pliers that I found at a Harbor Freight store as mentioned earlier. One thing I did do and glad I did is replace the original clutch with clutch plates that are comparable with synthetic oil. Shortly after getting my FJ back on the road I decided to put synthetic oil in it only to discover that the original clutch became completely useless. After some research I realized what was wrong. With a friend's help we replaced the clutch and everything has been fine since. I really like the idea of having synthetic oil in an old air cooled engine that has been known to have problems with generating lots of heat.