Over the weekend I did 562 miles ride, the bike is super nice handles smooth on back roads man you really got to like the big gas tank. But any way about the 300 miles mark front brakes took a little more pressure to stop. So i stop the bike and check things and found a little oil on the lower fairing and fork tubes. I bounce the front forks up and down. Fork oil leaking some. I'm new to the fj1200 bike. Whats the 1st steps to do. How do I take of the top fork caps are they pop on or screw on. I have order a manual for the bike it's taking to long to come in.
Quote from: jagcofj on July 19, 2016, 03:09:44 PM
Over the weekend I did 562 miles ride, the bike is super nice handles smooth on back roads man you really got to like the big gas tank. But any way about the 300 miles mark front brakes took a little more pressure to stop. So i stop the bike and check things and found a little oil on the lower fairing and fork tubes. I bounce the front forks up and down. Fork oil leaking some. I'm new to the fj1200 bike. What the 1st steps to go. How do I take of the top fork caps are they pop on or screw on. I have order a manual for the bike it's taking to long to come in.
Genuine Yamaha NOK Fork seals (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJ41ForkSealKit) in stock and ready to ship.
All Balls aftermarket fork seals (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AAllBallsForkSeal) in stock and ready to ship.
Fork rebuild kit with Yamaha NOK seals (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJ41ForkR%2FBKit) in stock and ready to ship.
Haynes FJ Manual (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tools%3AHayneFJ) in stock and ready to ship.
Or, for any other FJ needs you might have, there is a link at the top of the page that will take you directly to the RPM website.
If I ship today, you will have it by Friday.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 19, 2016, 03:29:34 PM
Quote from: jagcofj on July 19, 2016, 03:09:44 PM
Over the weekend I did 562 miles ride, the bike is super nice handles smooth on back roads man you really got to like the big gas tank. But any way about the 300 miles mark front brakes took a little more pressure to stop. So i stop the bike and check things and found a little oil on the lower fairing and fork tubes. I bounce the front forks up and down. Fork oil leaking some. I'm new to the fj1200 bike. What the 1st steps to go. How do I take of the top fork caps are they pop on or screw on. I have order a manual for the bike it's taking to long to come in.
Genuine Yamaha NOK Fork seals (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJ41ForkSealKit) in stock and ready to ship.
All Balls aftermarket fork seals (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AAllBallsForkSeal) in stock and ready to ship.
Fork rebuild kit with Yamaha NOK seals (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJ41ForkR%2FBKit) in stock and ready to ship.
Haynes FJ Manual (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tools%3AHayneFJ) in stock and ready to ship.
Or, for any other FJ needs you might have, there is a link at the top of the page that will take you directly to the RPM website.
If I ship today, you will have it by Friday.
Randy - RPM
thanks randy, i already order them. i will keep you in mind for the next order.
I still need help replacing the fork seals.
Quote from: jagcofj on July 20, 2016, 08:19:25 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 19, 2016, 03:29:34 PM
Quote from: jagcofj on July 19, 2016, 03:09:44 PM
Over the weekend I did 562 miles ride, the bike is super nice handles smooth on back roads man you really got to like the big gas tank. But any way about the 300 miles mark front brakes took a little more pressure to stop. So i stop the bike and check things and found a little oil on the lower fairing and fork tubes. I bounce the front forks up and down. Fork oil leaking some. I'm new to the fj1200 bike. What the 1st steps to go. How do I take of the top fork caps are they pop on or screw on. I have order a manual for the bike it's taking to long to come in.
Genuine Yamaha NOK Fork seals (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJ41ForkSealKit) in stock and ready to ship.
All Balls aftermarket fork seals (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AAllBallsForkSeal) in stock and ready to ship.
Fork rebuild kit with Yamaha NOK seals (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJ41ForkR%2FBKit) in stock and ready to ship.
Haynes FJ Manual (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tools%3AHayneFJ) in stock and ready to ship.
Or, for any other FJ needs you might have, there is a link at the top of the page that will take you directly to the RPM website.
If I ship today, you will have it by Friday.
Randy - RPM
thanks randy, i already order them. i will keep you in mind for the next order.
I still need help replacing the fork seals.
Ok, I was just going by the post title for "Fork seals
linking help".
As far as direction on how to replace them, you will need to remove the top cap to change/add oil. The seals need to be carefully removed and replaced with new.
Randy - RPM
Try to look in the Files section for manual. I believe you can find it online for download.
I know the plastic caps just come of with a screwdriver. Since I have 1100 I don't know are there any differences, but some general steps would be:
- open the little drain bolts on the bottom of the forks (screwdriver) and drain the oil, pump a few times to drain it all (carefull, it will squirt all over if you press too hard)
- support your bike with something because it will dive forward when you remove the fork caps or fork
- remove front wheel
- remove those plastic caps from the top with a screwdriver (just pry them off)
- adjust the preload and damping to lowest setting (i.e. loosen the tension in the spring as much as possible)
- remove the fork caps and springs (it is easier to do it while legs are on the bike), you will need a 27 mm nut to do it (back wheel axle nut), at least I think so, not sure for 1200
From this step I'm just guessing since I actually haven't done it on FJ, only other bikes, so some modification might be required:
- remove the fork legs from the bike
- brace them in a vice (careful!!!!, use only plastic cowered vice grip) and unscrew a screw on the bottom of the legs holding the inner tube (if it turns completely you will need an air gun (I think it's called air gun) to unscrew it
- remove the dust cleaner and oil seal retainer clip and you should be able to pull everything apart
A couple of remarks:
- if the stanchions have deep scratches it is probably futile to replace the seals (deal that first - hard rechroming or buy new)
- it would be good idea, if money permits, to replace all bushings in the fork
Please, anyone, correct this if you find any mistakes. Like I said, I never did this on FJ so I'm not sure will everything go the way I wrote.
Ivan
The caps are easy to remove if you have a homemade tool like this one:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/2016-07-20%2011.07.17_zpswmhnjmag.jpg)
Quote from: not a lib on July 20, 2016, 10:19:24 AM
The caps are easy to remove if you have a homemade tool like this one:
Hey, I've got one
just like that!!! Craftsman and everything!
Yup that's a handy tool. I left my forks in the triple clamps to break those caps loose. I loosened the top clamp pinch bolts to relieve pressure on the cap but left the bottom clamp tight to hold it, It broke loose very easily. Once you get the forks off, remove cap and drain, remove the wiper seals and the seal retainer ring then there is a large Allen bolt in the bottom that will need to come out. Pretty straight forward. Your brake pads are soggy toast get new ones.
Quote from: Tuneforkfreak on July 20, 2016, 11:00:33 AM
there is a large Allen bolt in the bottom that will need to come out.
The above is not required when just changing the fork seals.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: rlucas on July 20, 2016, 10:45:54 AM
Hey, I've got one just like that!!! Craftsman and everything!
Check your toolbox... :biggrin:
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 20, 2016, 11:04:32 AM
Quote from: Tuneforkfreak on July 20, 2016, 11:00:33 AM
there is a large Allen bolt in the bottom that will need to come out.
The above is not required when just changing the fork seals.
Randy - RPM
Hi Randy,
What is the trick to get the old seals out if you do not pull the allen bolts?
Quote from: jscgdunn on July 20, 2016, 11:35:03 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 20, 2016, 11:04:32 AM
The above is not required when just changing the fork seals.
Randy - RPM
Hi Randy,
What is the trick to get the old seals out if you do not pull the allen bolts?
We just use a large screwdriver to carefully pry them out being careful not the nick the chrome surface or gouge the aluminum slider. We do it quite regularly.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 20, 2016, 11:47:22 AM
Quote from: jscgdunn on July 20, 2016, 11:35:03 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 20, 2016, 11:04:32 AM
The above is not required when just changing the fork seals.
Randy - RPM
Hi Randy,
What is the trick to get the old seals out if you do not pull the allen bolts?
We just use a large screwdriver to carefully pry them out being careful not the nick the chrome surface or gouge the aluminum slider. We do it quite regularly.
Randy - RPM
Thanks will try that next time.....would save a bunch of time (and mess) if you are not changing bushings.
If you're going to just pry the seals I'd suggest a good flush with maybe some mineral spirits or solvent cleaner of some sort, prolly a good several shots of brake clean would work as well. The years tend to settle dark matter down in there.
I just did my fork seals for the first time. I have to admit, I was a bit nervous, but between the Haynes manual and a truly great YouTube video, I am victorious. The Haynes manual will have the pictures for the disassembly of the front of the bike and the pics for putting the fork components in the correct order when you reassemble.
This video below will tell you the best way I've seen to replace the seals. It even points out several common mistakes people make and the "got-cha's" that come up along the way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30)
As far as the tool for the cap removal, I made one by finding a slightly larger than 27mm bolt at Lowe's (a Home Depot style store) and grinding it down on a bench grinder to fit. If I had to do it again, I'd spend the measly $35 and get this:
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder)
Use Delboy's video to make the fork seal driver out of drain pipe. It's $2.50 in parts at the home improvement store and it worked perfectly.
wow thanks to all, for the info i will start pulling the forks tomorrow morning. and will update my progress.
Quote from: SausageNips on July 21, 2016, 09:31:43 AM
I just did my fork seals for the first time. I have to admit, I was a bit nervous, but between the Haynes manual and a truly great YouTube video, I am victorious. The Haynes manual will have the pictures for the disassembly of the front of the bike and the pics for putting the fork components in the correct order when you reassemble.
This video below will tell you the best way I've seen to replace the seals. It even points out several common mistakes people make and the "got-cha's" that come up along the way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30)
As far as the tool for the cap removal, I made one by finding a slightly larger than 27mm bolt at Lowe's (a Home Depot style store) and grinding it down on a bench grinder to fit. If I had to do it again, I'd spend the measly $35 and get this:
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder)
Use Delboy's video to make the fork seal driver out of drain pipe. It's $2.50 in parts at the home improvement store and it worked perfectly.
Nice video thanks.
Quote from: jagcofj on July 21, 2016, 10:35:05 AM
wow thanks to all, for the info i will start pulling the forks tomorrow morning. and will update my progress.
Ah yes, one thing I remembered during sleeping. :rofl:
If you are going to disassemble them completely, before you take out the springs, try to unscrew the allen bolt at the bottom of the legs. Spring might prevent it from rotating.
Quote from: not a lib on July 20, 2016, 10:19:24 AM
The caps are easy to remove if you have a homemade tool like this one:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/2016-07-20%2011.07.17_zpswmhnjmag.jpg)
I never seen anything like this socket and screw, what is this call the right name for it. Can't find it on line.
Quote from: jagcofj on July 22, 2016, 06:51:24 AM
Quote from: not a lib on July 20, 2016, 10:19:24 AM
The caps are easy to remove if you have a homemade tool like this one:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/2016-07-20%2011.07.17_zpswmhnjmag.jpg)
I never seen anything like this socket and screw, what is this call the right name for it. Can't find it on line.
It is hand made.
Quote from: SausageNips on July 21, 2016, 09:31:43 AM
I'd spend the measly $35 and get this:
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder)
I have used this tool for my fork seal change a few months ago. It works like a champ.
Fred
Quote from: balky1 on July 22, 2016, 07:27:55 AM
Quote from: jagcofj on July 22, 2016, 06:51:24 AM
Quote from: not a lib on July 20, 2016, 10:19:24 AM
The caps are easy to remove if you have a homemade tool like this one:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/2016-07-20%2011.07.17_zpswmhnjmag.jpg)
I never seen anything like this socket and screw, what is this call the right name for it. Can't find it on line.
It is hand made.
Just find the right size bolt and drive it into a tight socket with a big hammer.
Quote from: jscgdunn on July 22, 2016, 09:29:28 AM
Quote from: balky1 on July 22, 2016, 07:27:55 AM
Quote from: jagcofj on July 22, 2016, 06:51:24 AM
Quote from: not a lib on July 20, 2016, 10:19:24 AM
The caps are easy to remove if you have a homemade tool like this one:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/2016-07-20%2011.07.17_zpswmhnjmag.jpg)
I never seen anything like this socket and screw, what is this call the right name for it. Can't find it on line.
It is hand made.
Just find the right size bolt and drive it into a tight socket with a big hammer.
Welding right size nut on the other side instead of ruining a socket would also work.
Quote from: balky1 on July 22, 2016, 09:40:34 AM
Quote from: jscgdunn on July 22, 2016, 09:29:28 AM
Quote from: balky1 on July 22, 2016, 07:27:55 AM
Quote from: jagcofj on July 22, 2016, 06:51:24 AM
Quote from: rktmanfj on July 20, 2016, 10:19:24 AM
The caps are easy to remove if you have a homemade tool like this one:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/2016-07-20%2011.07.17_zpswmhnjmag.jpg)
I never seen anything like this socket and screw, what is this call the right name for it. Can't find it on line.
It is hand made.
Just find the right size bolt and drive it into a tight socket with a big hammer.
Welding right size nut on the other side instead of ruining a socket would also work.
I don't own a welder, but I had four 3/8 drive 11/16" sockets and a 3 lb sledgehammer... :pardon:
Quote from: not a lib on July 22, 2016, 09:51:51 AM
Quote from: balky1 on July 22, 2016, 09:40:34 AM
Quote from: jscgdunn on July 22, 2016, 09:29:28 AM
Quote from: balky1 on July 22, 2016, 07:27:55 AM
Quote from: jagcofj on July 22, 2016, 06:51:24 AM
Quote from: not a lib on July 20, 2016, 10:19:24 AM
The caps are easy to remove if you have a homemade tool like this one:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/2016-07-20%2011.07.17_zpswmhnjmag.jpg)
I never seen anything like this socket and screw, what is this call the right name for it. Can't find it on line.
It is hand made.
Just find the right size bolt and drive it into a tight socket with a big hammer.
Welding right size nut on the other side instead of ruining a socket would also work.
I don't own a welder, but I had four 3/8 drive 11/16" sockets and a 3 lb sledgehammer... :pardon:
:good:
Forks of the bike. I was able to pry the seal out with small little bent tip screw driver real easy to do. Thanks for the pics I made this with nuts and bolts I had. The nut fits right in the top of the fork.
OK now the fork seals - are these the right 1's for my bike, There's is taller you can't get the clamp on when it's install. And it don't fit tight on the outer fork tube.
Quote from: jagcofj on July 22, 2016, 11:34:09 AM
Forks of the bike. I was able to pry the seal out with small little bent tip screw driver real easy to do. Thanks for the pics I made this with nuts and bolts I had. The nut fits right in the top of the fork.
OK now the fork seals - are these the right 1's for my bike, There's is taller you can't get the clamp on when it's install. And it don't fit tight on the outer fork tube.
I'd say your new seals must be the same dimensions like your old ones!
Or, like you see, you can't put the retaining clip on, or something else.
I like the purple mat touch. :sarcastic: Must find one for myself. :biggrin:
You got the wrong seals. Where did you get them? Did they say they fit the FJ forks? Not reliable if they said they fit. Many here have found that after market seals don't last like the Yamaha seals. Get your money back if you can and get OEM fork seals. I have only used OEM from RPM and cannot properly judge the after market options. Let us know what works for you.
That mat reminds me of the 91 pink stripe color.
Quote from: balky1 on July 22, 2016, 02:22:53 PM
Quote from: jagcofj on July 22, 2016, 11:34:09 AM
Forks of the bike. I was able to pry the seal out with small little bent tip screw driver real easy to do. Thanks for the pics I made this with nuts and bolts I had. The nut fits right in the top of the fork.
OK now the fork seals - are these the right 1's for my bike, There's is taller you can't get the clamp on when it's install. And it don't fit tight on the outer fork tube.
I'd say your new seals must be the same dimensions like your old ones!
Or, like you see, you can't put the retaining clip on, or something else.
I like the purple mat touch. :sarcastic: Must find one for myself. :biggrin:
Funny i keep few trips of carpet to rest when working on stuff. I have rain bow color 1 from the 60s.
Quote from: jagcofj on July 22, 2016, 06:28:35 PM
Funny i keep few trips of carpet to rest when working on stuff. I have rain bow color 1 from the 60s.
All my rugs and carpet pieces seem to be the same color of old oil, grease and dirt.... :scratch_one-s_head:
Quote from: FJmonkey on July 22, 2016, 02:44:48 PM
You got the wrong seals. Where did you get them? Did they say they fit the FJ forks? Not reliable if they said they fit. Many here have found that after market seals don't last like the Yamaha seals. Get your money back if you can and get OEM fork seals. I have only used OEM from RPM and cannot properly judge the after market options. Let us know what works for you.
From a local yamaha dealer, me not to happy right now they are 35mins away. Can rpm do a order tonight.
I am going out on a limb since the photos are not very good as far as detail.
But I am going to say both seals might be wrong. The old one looks too short and the new one is definitely too tall.
What brand of seals did you get and what is the part number. Let me know and I might be able to verify if they are the correct seal or not.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: jagcofj on July 22, 2016, 06:58:41 PM
From a local yamaha dealer, me not to happy right now they are 35mins away. Can rpm do a order tonight.
You can order tonight, unfortunately they will not ship until Monday. But you will have them by Wednesday.
Randy - RPM
Better pics of the seals. The yamaha dealer told me call in the morning. rpm will keep you posted.
Yep, not a single Yamaha listed on the description of the package; not the proper kit.
If we can be of assistance, you can use the links I posted way back at the beginning of this thread.
Randy - RPM
Hi guy's man will ever get these thing install funny, the shop i bought the 1st set from was the wrong 1's so the yamaha dealer drop off another set witch was real cool be me. Now when i check the 2nd set it's the same as the 1st set.
So I road up to the dealer. The guy was so so sorry and he give me these 1 set off fork seals and 2 sets of wiper seals - free and i still have the other 2 sets he said sale the other 1's on ebay list the part number.
I hope you finally got the right ones! (popcorn)
Quote from: balky1 on July 29, 2016, 08:08:55 AM
I hope you finally got the right ones! (popcorn)
Man yes they are install with a extra set wipers.
Question, fork oil amount manual say 14oz i install that amount, and the level oil is about 11" down the tube - from the top.
Should it be about 5" from the top.
You need to have the forks compressed all the way, to get the oil level correct.
Quote from: jagcofj on July 30, 2016, 09:47:34 AM
Quote from: balky1 on July 29, 2016, 08:08:55 AM
I hope you finally got the right ones! (popcorn)
Man yes they are install with a extra set wipers.
Question, fork oil amount manual say 14oz i install that amount, and the level oil is about 11" down the tube - from the top.
Should it be about 5" from the top.
I would just stick with the amount the manual says and wouldn't care about measuring the level.
You can add and remove oil with your forks still in place. So you can find what works for your riding needs. Add some, ride it. Remove some, ride it....
thanks, added what the manual side 14oz and played around with different oil 5,10. I stuck with 20/40 Valvoline.