My starter is completely gone. Coals changed but no luck. I'm willing to buy a new starter motor, preferably from europe so the price of shipping is somewhat reasonable as unfortunately I'm not made of money.
Try and get the superior 4 brush XJR starter motor..
Ebay is full of the newer 4 brush starters for a decent price.
This is a 2 brush old style starter, see the Philips screw in the side? Avoid them if you can, the 4 brush turn harder and quicker.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-84-85-FJ-1100-FJ1100-STARTER-MOTOR-OEM-WORKING-GOOD-FJ1200-/262193337414?hash=item3d0bf0d446:g:iUsAAOSw5IJWcFYc&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-84-85-FJ-1100-FJ1100-STARTER-MOTOR-OEM-WORKING-GOOD-FJ1200-/262193337414?hash=item3d0bf0d446:g:iUsAAOSw5IJWcFYc&vxp=mtr)
If you really need to save money then check your local bike wreckers and get a used one. I am sure the FJ starter was used on other Yamahas and other years.
Just be very careful of aftermarket starters. I was selling a starter that the suppliers assured was Japanese built, not Taiwan or China. Well, the quality continued to drop until I had this documented failure.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13982.msg141917#msg141917 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13982.msg141917#msg141917)
I now only sell the genuine Yamaha supplied Mitsuba Starters: Genuine Yamaha 4 Brush Starter (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4KG-81890-00)
Check out photos (1-7) of Ben's starter when it came back to me. Photos (8-10) were from a new unit on the shelf. The last two photos (10, 13) are of the completely epoxied winding of the Genuine Yamaha starter.
Randy - RPM
Great. Even more good news!
I love the old chewing gum used on the windings, quality!
:)
FWIW, I have done a fair bit of motor rewinding, and it is no big trick to fully epoxy the windings in any motor. I would mount the armature on the bench in its' bearings, and rig a small electric motor above the armature. A wide, thin rubber band ran over the small motor shaft and around the armature commutator, so the armature was turned slowly and constantly, until the epoxy had cured fully. Apply the epoxy to fill every gap, and let it cure while the armature is slowly rotating. That trick keeps the armature fairly well-balanced, preventing the wet epoxy from sagging to one side as it cures. The small drive motor was typically an AC clock motor from a thrift shop. Those old AC clock motors run slowly, and forever.
If you need a "stiffer" wet mix of epoxy to stay put while curing, add some fine wood sawdust from a sanding machine to the epoxy mix. I would shake my sawdust through a small kitchen strainer, to get the finest dust for the mix. This epoxy/sawdust mud can be as thick or thin in consistency as you may want it to be, for the job at hand. Micro-balloons here will only make the epoxy weaker; fine sawdust makes epoxy stronger. Epoxy comes in many grades. Industrial-strength epoxy is what you want. Avoid the metal-bearing epoxies, of course, for electrical work.