Hi there,
I disassembled the old master cylinder and changed it with some third party master cylinder and levers. While assembling, I clean the push rod, disassemble slave cylinder for examination and clean it too. I did not rebuild the slave cylinder, only clean the debris and rust then reassemble the parts.
After bleed the line, the lever is firm and there is no leaking also the piston is moving but the clutch does not seperate when I apply the lever.
I did not fill the engine oil yet? is that the issue? Or still be air in the lines? any ideas?
Lever is firm huh? Hmmmmm
Take off the slave, open the bleed port, push with your thumb to retract the slave piston, hold the slave piston retracted while you close bleed port, reassemble.
When you say, the "clutch is not engaging" do you mean that you pull the lever, and the clutch is not disengaging? You can't roll the bike?
If the clutch is not dis engaging, check to make sure all the air is out of the clutch line. If that's good then find out more about this "third party" clutch master cylinder (m/c) you used. If the m/c's piston bore is less than 14mm you may have a problem. The FJ's slave is designed to work with 5/8" (16mm) m/c pistons.
Folks have used 15mm (FJR) m/c's and even 14mm m/c's but not smaller.
Clutch m/c's smaller than 14mm, the piston will not move enough fluid to actuate the slave and push rod to Disengage the clutch pack.
Look around the floor where you were working for a ball bearing.
Quote from: SkyFive on April 18, 2016, 03:14:37 PM
Look around the floor where you were working for a ball bearing.
Ok I think that can be the problem. But can the steel ball be fall internally_? I putted the engine to left side when it was dissasembled from the frame. At that time, the slave cylinder was not mounted but the push rod was on the place.
Could it be inside the clutch basket_?
Hey Look! The ball seems sitting in place? Does it?
Quote from: tderida on April 19, 2016, 07:41:11 AM
Hey Look! The ball seems sitting in place? Does it?
Yep, it is there.
Randy - RPM
I have an idea may be sound silly but I need to test if my setup works. I know the new clutch master cyl. bore size is 14mm. The piston is working when lever is applied. If the pressure is not enough maybe I can extend the rod with a shim inside the piston groove? Is that gonna make something broken?
Quote from: tderida on April 19, 2016, 02:50:36 PM
I have an idea may be sound silly but I need to test if my setup works. I know the new clutch master cyl. bore size is 14mm. The piston is working when lever is applied. If the pressure is not enough maybe I can extend the rod with a shim inside the piston groove? Is that gonna make something broken?
I have a 14mm clutch master on mine. Works without problems, your problem lies elsewhere.
Quote from: tderida on April 19, 2016, 02:50:36 PM
I have an idea may be sound silly but I need to test if my setup works. I know the new clutch master cyl. bore size is 14mm. The piston is working when lever is applied. If the pressure is not enough maybe I can extend the rod with a shim inside the piston groove? Is that gonna make something broken?
When you make a change and something stops working properly, STOP and figure out how the change affected proper operation.
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 19, 2016, 11:16:30 PM
Quote from: tderida on April 19, 2016, 02:50:36 PM
I have an idea may be sound silly but I need to test if my setup works. I know the new clutch master cyl. bore size is 14mm. The piston is working when lever is applied. If the pressure is not enough maybe I can extend the rod with a shim inside the piston groove? Is that gonna make something broken?
When you make a change and something stops working properly, STOP and figure out how the change affected proper operation.
OK I got it FJmonkey; Maybe I have to start over by bleeding all the system again.
No good news. The problem is not the hydrolic pressure. The steel ball bearing also seems in place so it does not the problem . and try to press the push rod supporting a pivot point of a steel stick to test if the clutch disengage manually but it did not move even a milimeter. There is no oil in engine, does that effects ? I did not change any other part except master cylinder. The only suspectible action is the engine lied on left side for a day before put it back to frame.. any idea will be appreciated.
You are not likely strong enough to press the clutch push rod by hand so it not moving is a good thing. Not having oil could cause the clutch plates to stick but you should be able to knock them loose by rolling the bike forward and back ward a few times. Laying the engine on its side should not affect the clutch. So it is either the master not providing enough displacement to move the push rod or the system has air in it.
Did you do this?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 18, 2016, 12:44:38 PM
Lever is firm huh? Hmmmmm
Take off the slave, open the bleed port, push with your thumb to retract the slave piston, hold the slave piston retracted while you close bleed port, reassemble.
Yep! It works :wacko3:
I try every advices by the experts of this forum given. Plus, reverse bleed the clutch before assembly. After I decide no air in system, go mount it. Then unmount spark plugs to make turn back wheel by hand because no oil in engine and it makes the clutch plates sticks. on fifth gear I turn the back wheel. back and forward, that makes the sticky clutch release a bit. pump the lever several times Voila! It works.. I apreciated and thankfull to all the experts who shared their knowledge with me.
Awesome! Another success story, we can never get too many of them.