How well do these cleaners work on carbs? I'm thinking about getting a cheapy for the hell of it
Quote from: twangin4u on April 15, 2016, 02:26:35 PM
How well do these cleaners work on carbs? I'm thinking about getting a cheapy for the hell of it
They work really well, the best way to clean your carbs.
They work great on carbs and other things that would be tedious and time consuming to clean. The Larger cleaner from Harbor Freight works great. An added feature is that there is a heat button.
Here is a shot of my oil cooler lines. One is clean the other has 10,000 miles or so of road grime embedded in the stainless steel braids. I did not touch it with a brush or a rag.
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on April 15, 2016, 03:33:39 PM
They work great on carbs and other things that would be tedious and time consuming to clean. The Larger cleaner from Harbor Freight works great. An added feature is that there is a heat button.
Here is a shot of my oil cooler lines. One is clean the other has 10,000 miles or so of road grime embedded in the stainless steel braids. I did not touch it with a brush or a rag.
Fred
That's where I was think of getting one at. I saw one for $35 I think. Is there a larger one too? I didn't see that one
Here is the larger cleaner that I have.
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html)
Fred
Fred, can you get the full rack in there or do you have to separate the carb bodies?
(yes, know about disassembly of carb internals)
Pat,
I never did the carbs. I sent my carb bank to RPM for a rebuild, they were in such bad shape, I ended up buying a whole new set of 4.
I would imagine that you could split the bank and put in 2 at a time.
Fred
I have the 2.5l cleaner. Works good but I always separate the carbs into singles. You will have to run the cleaner for a while and then flip over the carbs to get the unsubmerged side. Also, any carb iv ever put in there has come out good with degreaser. However give then a few moths and the carbs start to oxidize and look horrible on the outside. I haven't yet looked into that issue.
Quote from: a.graham52 on April 17, 2016, 08:04:07 PM
...However give then a few moths and the carbs start to oxidize and look horrible on the outside. I haven't yet looked into that issue.
Moth balls, maybe?
Seriously, I've been working with corrosion on bike stuff for a while. Any of these hard-core cleaning methods leaves the base metal ripe for chemical reaction with the atmosphere.
On steel, I've been using a product called Os-Pho (phosphoric acid), which reduces the rust to a more stable, less active compound, and prevents freshly sandblasted steel from rusting quite so readily.
I wonder if freshly ultrasonically-cleaned parts could use a dousing in a light oil, or a coat of clear paint to protect against further oxidation?
My thoughts, at the moment.
Steve
Quote from: a.graham52 on April 17, 2016, 08:04:07 PM
........However give them a few moths and the carbs start to oxidize and look horrible on the outside.
....and the inside!
I had this discussion with the owner of the largest chain of carby and FI shops in the country on this subject and it is the very reason they won't do bike carbys. They are working on it though.
He is a metallurgist at explained it at a speed and in terms that left my head spinning. It's to do with the metal composition and is somewhat unique to bike carbys.
They had been sent a whole swag of potions from the US to formally test and the nearest to date was "Simple Green" but they were not entirely happy with that either.
As it stands at the moment, you can't get bike carbys ultrasonically cleaned here by a reputable specialist, they won't touch them.
Ask Randy what he uses. I assume his don't react over time.
Steve, I don't think oiling the surface is the answer, the petrol would wash it off and as I recall it was something to do with a component of that type of alloy rising to the top during the manufacturing process and once stripped, the metal underneath oxidises (or whatever it does)
Like I said, my head was left spinning with terminology but it made sense at the time and I'm sure there's plenty on the net about it.
Noel
I have one and use it on all carbs. Only use water and dish soap (ie Sunlight) or Fantastic. Works great, no issues.
Quote from: ribbert on April 18, 2016, 09:02:48 AM
Ask Randy what he uses. I assume his don't react over time.
Noel
I use Crest Ultrasonic Cleaners; Chem-Crest 235
Really expensive, but it is designed for the job and requires a heated cleaner.
Randy - RPM
Wow :crazy:
$90 a gallon: http://www.sonicsystemsales.com/store/p6/Chem-Crest_235.html (http://www.sonicsystemsales.com/store/p6/Chem-Crest_235.html)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 18, 2016, 11:47:54 AM
Wow :crazy:
$90 a gallon: http://www.sonicsystemsales.com/store/p6/Chem-Crest_235.html (http://www.sonicsystemsales.com/store/p6/Chem-Crest_235.html)
That's the right tool for the job, cost is not a concern at that point.
Randy - RPM
How long in the cleaner and at what temperature for carbs?
Thats something that I found little info on.............
Quote from: FJools on April 18, 2016, 05:15:06 PM
How long in the cleaner and at what temperature for carbs?
Thats something that I found little info on.............
Time varies by the condition of the carbs.
I have never checked the temp of my cleaner, but I know you can't hold the parts when they come out with bare hands.
Randy - RPM
Even without heat it they work well. The element on our cheapy burned out pretty quickly but it still works...just take longer. About two hours. The ultrasonic action actually warms the water up quite a bit.
Have any of you fellas tried a solution of the Yamaha carb cleaner in the sonic cleaner? I have had very good luck with the carb cleaner over the past 20 years but I haven't used it in the sonic cleaner tank. I haven't found it to mess up the exterior either.
Quote from: jscgdunn on April 19, 2016, 09:05:36 AM
Even without heat it they work well. The element on our cheapy burned out pretty quickly but it still works...just take longer. About two hours. The ultrasonic action actually warms the water up quite a bit.
Well, since I have a 2.5 gallon cleaner it would take forever to generate any heat via the ultrasonic motion.
Also, the Crest soap requires heat to work properly.
Operating Conditions
Chem-Crest 235 is typically used at 5 - 10% by volume in
ultrasonic applications. Normal operating temperatures:
120 - 180°F, dependent on the material makeup of the
substrate, and the contaminants being removed.
Contact your Crest representative for product-line
specific recommendations. Recommended rinsing water
temperature: 120 - 150°F.I have heard of all kinds of concoctions people use in their cleaners from Ammonia to Simple Green to lye based drain cleaners.
I use the cleaning solution based on the proper application of the carb material I am working on. I cannot chance damaging a single carb.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on April 19, 2016, 10:35:32 AM
Quote from: jscgdunn on April 19, 2016, 09:05:36 AM
Even without heat it they work well. The element on our cheapy burned out pretty quickly but it still works...just take longer. About two hours. The ultrasonic action actually warms the water up quite a bit.
Well, since I have a 2.5 gallon cleaner it would take forever to generate any heat via the ultrasonic motion.
Also, the Crest soap requires heat to work properly.
Operating Conditions
Chem-Crest 235 is typically used at 5 - 10% by volume in
ultrasonic applications. Normal operating temperatures:
120 - 180°F, dependent on the material makeup of the
substrate, and the contaminants being removed.
Contact your Crest representative for product-line
specific recommendations. Recommended rinsing water
temperature: 120 - 150°F.
I have heard of all kinds of concoctions people use in their cleaners from Ammonia to Simple Green to lye based drain cleaners.
I use the cleaning solution based on the proper application of the carb material I am working on. I cannot chance damaging a single carb.
Randy - RPM
Yes wish ours still heated.....again, I just use Sunlight soap...would much prefer the product above.
Old topic..but...I'm degunking my '89 carbs and I rebeled at over $100 for the super-duper carb cleaner that RPM uses. I have an old can of Berryman's carb cleaner that I put in my heated ultrasonic device. I'm cooking the first carb as I write. I'm curious to see if the ultrasonic with the Berryman's does a decent job.
Jack, is Berryman's flammable?
I know Randy&Robert uses a special cleaner in their unit that does not eat aluminum. (Read:expensive)
Pat
If it's the Berrymans chemdip it should be good to about 200f before ignition. Good stuff but not available in the "great" state of California anymore. Actually did an older Holley 4 barrel in these last week as the stuff we use darkens really old pot cast aluminum for some reason. I think Ron's boat carb was a Guinea pig on this and we found that out the hard way. Cleaned it great but it discolored that 60 year old pot cast aluminum.
The FJ carb bodies and newer 4 barrel stuff has no issue with the chem crest we use but when doing older stuff the it did have an issue.
Anyways the berrymans works great without heat. If we could get it in California it would probably be a go to.
Just finished the process. Berryman's in the ultrasonic at 140 degrees worked good. When I drained the cleaner there was a decent amount of crap in the bottom. Here's hoping that everything worked the way it's supposed to.
PS. I bought 2 gallons of the Berryman's in my local Walmart about 5 years ago. I don't know if they still sell it but it's gets listed on the Googles.