I *KNOW* we have some smart cookies in here, so I'd like to initiate a discussion on the topic of cleaning agents.
For the sake of argument, let's assume that I'm lazy, and want to spend the least amount of time and effort on stellar results. Maybe not so much STELLAR, but just a lot less grimy. I'm mindful of my paint and decals, too.
I stumbled across some S-100 cycle cleaner. Spray on, wait briefly, then wash off with water. Not too shabby, but pretty expensive. Needs more than one treatment in really dirty areas.
I used some sort of wheel cleaner on my car once. I was amazed by how easily the brake dust and dirt just "lifted" off the rim. Washed off with water. Etched the concrete driveway.
Some wheel cleaners have stuff that's not compatible with Aluminium. Phosphoric Acid and Sodium Hydroxide are two ingredients I've seen listed. Some state that they are not for use on motorcycle wheels.
I've posed this topic to employees at car care places, but no one really has a clue.
A strong dish soap solution helps, but not much. You have to scrub to get the nasty stuff off.
Engine de-greaser works on my MG engine compartment, but can leave a dull residue. Haven't tried it on the bike.
I'm certain that products vary by region, as some areas care more for the environment than others.
Anyone else?
Steve
My go to All Purpose cleaner is Simple Green. It is not a spray on, spray off cleaner. More of a spray on, wipe off cleaner. It has tremendous grease and grime cutting properties, I use it and a Grunge brush to clean my chain, and yet is gentle on paint and plastic. I even dilute it and use it in my UltraSonic cleaner.
Fred
S-100 on a cold engine with a parts brush for the dirty areas. Buy a gallon of S100, it's less money.
WD40 on the chain.
Do you have an air compressor to blow away the water?
My wife bought me one of those Master Blaster air blowers (love that gal) it beats the hell out of hand drying....
....followed by a quick buff of Simichrome on the bright work and Zaino Polish on the paintwork.
Yes, I do recall using the Simple Green in the past. I'll pick some more up.
Yes also to the compressor..
No pressure washer, though. Messed up the lower suspension linkage by getting water in places it shouldn't have been.
Good ideas.
Steve
Guy @ work is kinda anal about his bikes. He has a speed criple. And a Bonneville. Well I gave him a 3 pak of chainwax. Cleaner, penetrant? and wax. His speed criple. Is super clean even underneath. Looks like it just rolled out of the showroom. I assumed he was spending hours with a toothbrush. Gave him shit about it. He said he uses the chain Cleaner. For the whole thing and it works great. Haven't tried it yet. But I'm going to. He just had it in the dealer for service and new tires. He said the mechanic told him he has never seen such a clean bike.
Speed Cripple :lol:
I find citrus based degreaser works best on engine oil and chain grime. It smells nice and even works on my hands.
This is really good degreaser and it is available at most Walmarts in the US.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/dupont-motorcycle-degreaser/ (http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/dupont-motorcycle-degreaser/)
Zwartie
Last year I was cleaning up the fallout from bad valve cover donuts.
Simple Green disappointed me.
Then I found this stuff: http://oileater.com/household/cleaner-degreaser/ (http://oileater.com/household/cleaner-degreaser/)
It cleaned off all kinds of oil and grease. It even cleaned off bacon grease deposits off my stove. Far superior to Simple Green in every way.
Dishwashing liquid, chain cleaner, citrus based cleaners, degreasers, Simple Green, household cleaners etc, certainly do get things clean but they all have one quality in common, they are made to cut grease AND will strip any protective coating you have from your finishes.
Most polishes for paint, metal and plastic incorporate some residual protective coating, usually some form of wax. This is what protects the finish, the items mentioned above strip all of this leaving the surface exposed to the elements.
This makes grime harder to remove and accelerates the degradation of the finish from exposure to dirt, airborne contaminants and UV's.
The easiest way to clean a bike is keep it clean. Dirt and crud will just about fall off a polished and protected surface.
When I bought my bike it only had 30,000 kms on it but I stripped it down to the engine and harness entirely for the purpose of detailing it.
Given the miles I do each year, the fact Winter is my preferred riding season and my penchant for dirt roads, my bike gets plenty dirty but when washed is one of the cleanest used bikes on the forum.
Keeping it clean takes way less time than getting it clean.
Arriving at the rally last week ..... before the rain.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1707/26090151735_a755e031c1_c.jpg)
No detailing, just a quick wash before leaving. It has done 150,000 kms, original paint, original seat.
Without getting into specific products, I use a "Quick Detailer" after every wash. The paint would be lucky if it got cut and polished once every 20,000 kms and still looks like this.
Keeping it waxed leaves everything with a protective coating and makes washing a breeze.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8599/16535405317_c9bd81b2b5_c.jpg)
IMO the key to a clean bike is getting it really clean once, protecting the surfaces, then keeping it clean.
Specific products, sponges, brushes, polishes etc all play a part but that sounds a bit like an oil discussion to me and best left alone.
Fairing screens should get a light polish every time you wash the bike. They scratch just running your finger across them and if you wait until it looks scratched, it's too late, you have a major restoration job on your hands.
My screen still looks like this several years and many km's after I restored it. It will stay looking like this forever and never need another resto, which was a PIA.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2871/9114609165_d98fc33ea4_c.jpg)
I use a "Wash & Wax" to wash my bike. It leaves a slight wax residue to protect the areas I can't get to by hand.
Noel
i know i will get nailed for this but for the excess chain fluid build-up ( rear wheel ) -- but I use kerosene to clean my rear wheel -- and chain -- works great ( low volatility ) Enviromentally I put down my absorbant oil mats ( but cardboard works in a pitch).
to this day I have never had a flaming wheel.
Quote from: JPaganel on March 28, 2016, 01:02:36 AMLast year I was cleaning up the fallout from bad valve cover donuts. Simple Green disappointed me. Then I found this stuff:
http://oileater.com/household/cleaner-degreaser/ (http://oileater.com/household/cleaner-degreaser/)
It cleaned off all kinds of oil and grease. It even cleaned off bacon grease deposits off my stove. Far superior to Simple Green in every way.
Sounds good, but as always, check the label. Amazon said about this product:
"Do not use on hot/warm aluminum, glass, leather, silk and suede."
Cheers,
Red
Quote from: red on March 28, 2016, 09:40:22 AM
Sounds good, but as always, check the label. Amazon said about this product:
"Do not use on hot/warm aluminum, glass, leather, silk and suede."
Cheers,
Red
No leather, silk, or suede on my FJ. It just ain't that fancy. :rofl:
As to the aluminum, the manufacturer says this:
QuoteUsing Oil Eater® Cleaner Degreaser on hot or warm aluminum may cause discoloration.
Easy enough to let the bike cool down. My engine isn't polished, anyway.
Kerosene is EXACTLY what Suzuki specified as the only cleaning/lubricating agent to be used on the RG500 chain. It does not harm O-rings, and it cleans the grime (which turns to grinding paste) off the links.
Quote from: moparman70 on March 28, 2016, 09:36:25 AM
i know i will get nailed for this but for the excess chain fluid build-up ( rear wheel ) -- but I use kerosene to clean my rear wheel -- and chain -- works great ( low volatility ) Enviromentally I put down my absorbant oil mats ( but cardboard works in a pitch).
to this day I have never had a flaming wheel.
I have used mineral spirits because it was just sitting there wasting away. Cleans the chain well from the anti-filng lube. Then I started using Tri-Flow. The gunk flings off and I clean it off the rear wheel, the chain stays clean and lubed. The rear wheel cleans off with little effort. Not looking to win any beauty pageants, just a long chain life and many trouble free miles.
Quote from: Arnie on March 28, 2016, 07:27:26 PM
Kerosene is EXACTLY what Suzuki specified as the only cleaning/lubricating agent to be used on the RG500 chain. It does not harm O-rings, and it cleans the grime (which turns to grinding paste) off the links.
Quote from: moparman70 on March 28, 2016, 09:36:25 AM
i know i will get nailed for this but for the excess chain fluid build-up ( rear wheel ) -- but I use kerosene to clean my rear wheel -- and chain -- works great ( low volatility ) Enviromentally I put down my absorbant oil mats ( but cardboard works in a pitch).
to this day I have never had a flaming wheel.
very correct -- t does not harm the o-rings and it cleans the grease off beautifully -- I typically use blue ray chain lube -- foaming kind and the kerosene cleans it away ---- not sure if mineral spirits are the same as kerosene
Good to know that about kerosene because I definitely read instructions with chains not to use solvents that can get inside to wash out the impregnated lube of an assemble X or O ring chain. I still wouldn't drop a chain in a coffee can of it and soak it overnight though. Just being cautious.
Ammonia content - big no no. It makes plastics brittle with no sign until the plastic is stressed and will just give way, sometimes dangerously so. It might take months or years of use but it will degrade it. Professional plastics manufacturer policy - no ammonia products allowed in this plant - and commercial product personal experience.
I was hoping I could recommend a degreaser now used at work because it beats the ass off the former solution. It looks like green soapy detergent. Sadly, despite the name Green Nature, it's a witches brew of alcohols, esters, chlorides, "...thylenes". Names don't mean jack.
just read the book, under chain maintenance.
the ferring and tank just require a deep coat of wax (2-3 applications).
Quote from: moparman70 on March 28, 2016, 11:29:24 PM
Quote from: Arnie on March 28, 2016, 07:27:26 PM
Kerosene is EXACTLY what Suzuki specified as the only cleaning/lubricating agent to be used on the RG500 chain. It does not harm O-rings, and it cleans the grime (which turns to grinding paste) off the links.
Quote from: moparman70 on March 28, 2016, 09:36:25 AM
i know i will get nailed for this but for the excess chain fluid build-up ( rear wheel ) -- but I use kerosene to clean my rear wheel -- and chain -- works great ( low volatility ) Enviromentally I put down my absorbant oil mats ( but cardboard works in a pitch).
to this day I have never had a flaming wheel.
very correct -- t does not harm the o-rings and it cleans the grease off beautifully -- I typically use blue ray chain lube -- foaming kind and the kerosene cleans it away ---- not sure if mineral spirits are the same as kerosene
If you are talking degreasing only and not general bike cleaning, you can't beat kero. It is cheap and can be bought in bulk even cheaper. I buy it in 25 litre drums from a wholesaler and it's very cheap.
As had been said, it is the one cleaner that won't ruin the 'O' rings on you chain, won't damage anything else it gets on, including paint, and the residue will wash off with any soapy solution. I keep 50 ltrs of it in my parts wash, decant small amounts into containers for smalls parts washing and it's easy on you hands.
Never found anything better.
If you really want to ad some ooomph to degreasing and you have a compressor, get one of these, a kero gun. I have this exact unit and love it.
(http://www.ublast.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Air-Compressor-5-Pce-Kit-4.jpg)
Kero spray at 120 psi. It's like a high pressure cleaner but with kero.
Speaking of high pressure cleaners, as someone did earlier, they are a great piece of equipment but can do all sorts of damage if not careful.
Noel