FJowners.com

I'm going to call her Yummy  :nyam2::biggrin:, because she is a Yummy new project :yahoo:!!!!!
She arrived today from Queensland via bike transport service.
She is a 1UX built December 1985 & shipped to North America in 1986. This was the second batch of 1200's to hit North America. The previous was the first 1TX range, the very first FJ12's to go into production. 10,000 units of each built, unknown number of the 1TX went to North America, but the full 10,000 batch of the 1UX went to North America exclusively.
This is #106 off the production line for the 1UX batch, which means the actual 11006th FJ12 made, of some 300,000 FJ12's ever built.
It was bought to Australia at some point, then had QLD compliance plate attached 11th April 2002.
PO is no longer around (Vale Craig Gilles), so import history is u/k.
Could be a US import, the speedo has km/h on the inside, but the main ring is in mph, 38231 miles on the clock. Could that mean a Canadian import? It does have 'Perimeter Frame Concept' on the fairing, so it should be US. It doesn't have a headlight switch, or pass beam button, so again I think that points to USA.

No battery, so Effie donated hers. A new one is on charge now and will go into Effie.

Oil is black, but at the right level. Brakes work, clutch seems ok. All electricals seem ok.

Crank, crank, crank, nothing, hmm  :unknown:.

Fuel (and inside tank, no rust) looks ok  :scratch_one-s_head:.

Hmm, fuel is red/orange, hmm, E10 & probably pretty old  :nea:.

Tank off, drain, 98 flush and semi-fill :yes:.

Crank, crank, tiny bit of choke, WOOO HOOO  :dance: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks:!!!!

Sooth as silk once the old fuel was burnt off, bit of a hesitation revving off idle, loud clutch rattle, but don't care!

The whole front end was covered (literally dripping) in fork oil from the blown fork seals (both) and the tie-downs used in transit (obviously had the forks in compression for while).

Quick ride (after superficial oil removal with rag), SWEEEEEEEET!!!!

Now, before I rattle on, I will go on the record as stating here and now to everyone, 'For this project I shall turn as many of the spanners as possible', let's see how impatient I get shall we.....

OK, now the rattle on, seems to have original rubber brake, clutch and fuel lines, fork seals blown but forks possibly polishable. The fuel lines look and smell like they are leaky.

Tires look end of life.

Was told she's a bit smokey and might need rings. Once she was nice and warm I gave her a few heavy rev surges and held. Some smoke, but colour was whitish brown, so no real clue and could just be crud/unburnt fuel. I won't begrudge a minor top end rebuild if she is a bit burnt.

I did find some butchered wiring, but seems functional.

I haven't done a compression test, or checked the alternator, shims, or coils, but 2nd gear seems ok. However I've not really tried it out properly as all that oil over the front end made me very cautious. No major tapping noise from the top end, so perhaps the timing chain and shims are ok, but this will require some spanner turning. (I need to get a compression guage, torque wrench, vacuum gauges, and shim tool thingy,...Pete?)

It looks like she lived inside in North America, then was living rough in Oz.

Here's some pics...

Whoops,

The white bottom cowl which appears in the last pic was one I picked up at a wreckers in anticipation and gave it a rough, quick white coat (over original grey), and fitted off to see....

Just noticed,... not original headers, but OEM collector and mufflers.
Also looks like it has never been dropped. It does look like there have been some knocks, but nothing like a high-side, low-side, or any gravel rash on the pegs, engine, or plastics.
She seems cosmetically and mechanically in better nic than my return to FJs with the 1100 from this time last year.

Great looking bike. I think you are a lucky man to have a pair like that.  Dave

Quote from: Troyskie on January 30, 2016, 03:15:59 AM

(I need to get a compression guage, torque wrench, vacuum gauges, and shim tool thingy,...Pete?)

Nice find Troy. Not as pretty as an 1100 but at least it's red and white. Let me know when you want to tackle the valve adjustments and I'll be there. Got shims, valve tool, comp gauges, torque wrench and sync gauges ready to travel. We may wait for this rain to clear first.
Regards, Pete.
PS We might have just gained another FJ owner in the area. I'll keep you posted.

Sweet Pete.
Yep re the rain. The whole back yard was 1ft under yesterday arvo & the local roads have fallen apart.
Anyhoo, I'll have to wait till I get back before actually tackling the diagnosis.
Perhaps a diagnostic check then dyno run for a real before/after......Simon...."Pete's changed his needles and I have a new project' :rofl2:
Great news re the new local FJ owner  :good2:
Troyskie

Quote from: Troyskie on January 30, 2016, 05:18:01 AM
Great news re the new local FJ owner  :good2:
Troyskie

Not confirmed yet so don't tell anyone! 

Great find  :good2:

I am sure you will have it sorted out and looking as good a your Effie in short order.


Fred

Nice find Troy,

will you be getting it ready for the rally ?

Is that an OEM belly pan or GRP aftermarket ?

Definitely getting her ready.
With luck I'll only need fork seals, tyres, fuel, brake & clutch lines. Possibly new sprockets and chain.
I'm planning on riding her this week to shake her down and see if she also has a 'Bond' modification. Also to see if she's using oil and how much.
If she's serviceable, I'll leave any major stuff till after the rally.
The belly pan is OEM, off a pink striper I grabbed while I was in Canberra earlier this week (Joes). I gave it a quick clean and rough coat of cheap white to serve till a real clean up later in the year.
I'll be taking the 1100, so Yummy is a spare....

Well, now I'm back from the US, Pete came up from Bermagui with his shim tool and we popped the top off to have a squiz at the shims.

Whoever last adjusted them was super conservative, mostly ok, but a few were quite loose.

Pete had a couple in his box-o-tricks and we swapped a couple around, shims are now good.

Pete had a 4 hour ride home so we did a check of the timing (all-good) and put her back together. Flashed her up & she ran smooth as.

Smoke could be frozen rings, so she'll need a bit of a hard ride to see if this clears up the smoke. We didn't do a compression check, but I can do that at Glenns' shop. I won't be game to give her a good ride till I've sorted the front forks and brakes.

Rear brake rotor is totally buggered & will need replacement.

Thanks heaps for coming up to help out Pete, plus for showing me how to do my own shims. He also showed me some neat tricks for removing stubborn screws around the timing cover without an impact hammer, and without buggering the screws!

So the to-do list for Yummy thus far is....

Replace the forks, these tubes are buggered (hopefully a 91 front end at Joes in Canberra is reasonable, and complete including 17" wheel, i.e. swap in, and then think seriously about the GSXR rear mod N swap).
Replace rear brake rotor & pads.
Replace front brake pads.
Compression test (then decide minor top end rebuild or not).
Replace OEM rubber lines (fuel, clutch, brakes).
New tyres (depending on front & rears swap).

In trying to guess more of her lineage, Monkey Mark described to me the Cal emissions cans these bikes would have had added. It looks like there is an unused tube/cable clip on the frame near the front of the motor. Are there other spots that might indicate if the CAL crap has been removed? From her condition I feel she was not a cold climes bike, but really have no idea.

Sounds like another man shed day excuse Troy................ :biggrin:

Quote from: FJools on February 20, 2016, 08:32:01 PM
Sounds like another man shed day excuse Troy................ :biggrin:

You may be on to something there Jools.
Troy, just a suggestion, don't go rushing out to buy a new rear rotor just yet. If you decide to go with a 17" rear swap with a GSXR wheel, you will have wasted your money buying the new rotor. I may have a used FJ rotor lying around here that you can have. I'll have a look and let you know.
   regards, Pete. :drinks:

Quote from: oldktmdude on January 30, 2016, 05:43:25 AM

Quote from: Troyskie on January 30, 2016, 05:18:01 AM
Great news re the new local FJ owner  :good2:
Troyskie

Not confirmed yet so don't tell anyone! 

Alf (ZRX) has just bought Phil's (wainot) FJ 1100. Unfortunately it won't be ready in time for the 2016 Rally but certainly will be for next years.  :good2:

Quote from: oldktmdude on February 20, 2016, 08:49:30 PM

Quote from: oldktmdude on January 30, 2016, 05:43:25 AM

Quote from: Troyskie on January 30, 2016, 05:18:01 AM
Great news re the new local FJ owner  :good2:
Troyskie

Not confirmed yet so don't tell anyone! 

Alf (ZRX) has just bought Phil's (wainot) FJ 1100. Unfortunately it won't be ready in time for the 2016 Rally but certainly will be for next years.  :good2:

It was only a matter of time  :biggrin:

 :good2:   Have to agree.  I love Alfs Kawa, the FJ should be something special when he is finished with it.

Good to hear,

now all you need to do is get him on here Pete.................

   He's tried to join a couple of times but doesn't seem to work for him. Maybe owning a Kawasaki had something to do with it?  :lol:

Quote from: oldktmdude on February 21, 2016, 03:13:08 PM
   He's tried to join a couple of times but doesn't seem to work for him. Maybe owning a Kawasaki had something to do with it?  :lol:

Chubby non compliant fingers you mean ? :biggrin:

Okey dokey, bit the bullet and bought a 17" front end, wheel, callipers, disks, and forks off a wrecked 91 from Joes in Canberra. Blown seals, but tubes 'looked' ok (when I had a quick look some weeks ago).
It should be delivered at home next week some time, so I'll have more info then.
I've also bought a new set of pads for the rear, so that should make Yummy rideable to try and unfreeze the rings (if that is what the smoke is from).
This will also make her useful as a spare bike for anyone stuck for a bike for the rally (if I get her together in time.... :wacko1:).

Here is the 91 1200 front end.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_04_03_16_2_05_08.jpeg)
I've had a look at the parts microfiche and can't see any real mods except the braided lines and discs (rotors). I didn't realise the FJ went to twin spots on the front, but the microfiche doesn't lie (only confuses me sometimes).

If anyone can pick up on any changes it would be appreciated as I'm going to order some new bushes, seals, tyre, and pads before I put it on.
As I type I realise I'll be checking the bearings as well.

As what you see above is going apart, should I change the forks any more? I've Race Tech Emulators in my 1100 front end (be gone you anti-dive sort of worked, thing of the past).

Emulators and stiffer springs proved to be a great fix, and also showed that progressive springs are a thing of the past as well. If you disagree, fine, but this 'feels' way better to me. I'll always humbly point out that the FJ1100 was more bike than I was rider in the 80's, (16", and anti-dive included-shows my level huh?). Age has not improved my riding (my pie is always luke warm).

So, my question is,...does the 91 front end need more/better/newer/moditits? If so is it as simple as the emulators/stiffer springs that fixed the 11?

I will attempt the GSXR rear swap, but not yet. Not just before the rally when someone (ALAN - aka Sparky84) might need my spare bike (with added 'Bond' effect).

I can get the basic bits in and ready before the rally, but extras might put the needy in the pillion seat, or Harley (aka - ute, every dog needs a master).

Troy,

The OEM springs in the '91 were even more soft than the 1100s had.
I've got RaceTech emulators and 0.95kg/mm springs in mine and I'm happy with the way it works.
Your other real option would be the RPM inertial fork inserts and stiffer springs.  I've not had a chance to try this setup, so can't make any comment. 
Check with Doug or Noel or others who have them for their impressions.

Hey Troy.

Plus one to what Arnie said. I have the 89 forks on my 1100 with Racetech emulators and 0.95kg springs. It is far superior to the standard setup.

Mark

Quote from: Urban_Legend on March 04, 2016, 04:03:57 PM
Hey Troy.

Plus one to what Arnie said. I have the 89 forks on my 1100 with Racetech emulators and 0.95kg springs. It is far superior to the standard setup.

Mark

Troy, that's also what I'm running although my forks are '90 FZR 1000 43mm. Seems to work well. Massive improvement over original FJ set-up.
Regards, Pete.

I've got RPM valves in with .85 race tech springs. Vast improvement over the standard soggy setup, rides well.

I've followed the collective wisdom.

Emulators and 0.95 springs.

I rushed the job and got Glenn Henry to do this work, but I'll be putting the bits in.

Some recent simple oil change incompetence has slowed me down from breaking her open any more (RTFM Troy!!!!  :diablo:), until I grow some extra brain cells.

I should be able to pop the front end in just before departing for the rally, but as Alan doesn't need her she can have a little sleep and become familiar with her new front end (Effie, far from jealous has been on her best behaviour, and should be growling nicely all the way to Harrietville).

Pics to follow installation and my general incompetence  :sarcastic:.

Whoops, forgot to say, a very nervous run for about 20k's seems to have loosened up the frozen rings. Nervous as I didn't really have much in the way of brakes, enough to stop normally, but in a necessary, unplanned stop, I'd be a hood ornament.

Anyway, most of the smoky motor is gone, but the I feel the valve stem guide seals are hardened and will need to be replaced sooner than later.

Rear brake done, but disc is buggered, so I'll change that. Disc is good for a little while longer, probably another 5000k or so, but as it is a project, it will be done sooner than later (with the GSXR swap  :crazy:).

Picked up the rebuilt forks and super duper looking tyre for the 17".

After the rally I feel the need for more twisties.

I'll start putting it back on this weekend. Pics of stupidity to follow.

Go ride the Lion's road.  That'll keep the sidewalls working :-) and you can judge the value of your fork mods.

Arnie

Thanks mate, Lions road hey...Where is that?
The forks and emulators worked well on the 1100 last weekend, and that is pretty much the same set-up as for the new Yummy, but the bigger wheel will add a new dimension  :pardon: pardon the pun.

Quote from: Troyskie on March 22, 2016, 04:13:24 PM
Thanks mate, Lions road hey...Where is that?
The forks and emulators worked well on the 1100 last weekend, and that is pretty much the same set-up as for the new Yummy, but the bigger wheel will add a new dimension  :pardon: pardon the pun.

Over the range (west) of the Gold Coast. http://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/11/7-reasons-to-road-trip-the-lions-road/ (http://www.redzaustralia.com/2014/11/7-reasons-to-road-trip-the-lions-road/)

I had a mate drop his brand new Suzuki right in front of me on the last wooden bridge crossing heading south, at the start of a Phillip Island Run. (real slippery after floods so you have to straighten up before it rather than on it as the road drops down to it from a curve!). Apparently those Lions like ta cerve it up for their community!    :drinks:

Front end is now done and I've learnt a few things.
1 I never realised I can't bleed a brake line that is totally dry.
2 I really am incompetent when it comes to using tools.
3 When people say replace old tyres, THEY"RE RIGHT!!!!!!
4 There are two ways to remove the fairing on 86 FJ's, by the manual, or the fast way.

Some other things that came in handy.
Pete (Oldktmdude) suggested making a tray for tools that sits over where the battery is once the seat is off. Great idea!
Noel 'Ribbert' showed me the way to easily and quickly remove the front top fairing.
Some other people suggested I learn to use tools. GREAT IDEA. I'm trying.

The 91 to 86 front end swap went very well. I made some mistakes, but easily fixed.
I really need some guidance on bleeding the brake lines. They are still mushy, but work.

Now, the most important thing I've learned today about tyres.

Once the bike was done I took her for a test thrash.

Coming out of a tight corner I blipped the throttle and had a very nice power slide. This wasn't enough juice to make the 1100 (Effie) break loose. Yummy (this 1200) has not much more power.

I had a bit of a Casey Stoner moment with the power slide  :dance:, but really, I'm no where near good enough a rider to do that on purpose.

The old rubber on the back wheel is the only answer. I bought the bike not knowing how old the tyres were.
They looked ok, but now I know, they've gone off.

So to anyone reading this, if your tyres are over 5-6 years old, change them.

Is one moment enough to know this. YES, but in the interest of science, I experimented. Same thing again, and again. I don't know how old the back tyre is, but the front is brand-spanking-new. As the PO had 70 or so bikes, I assume this fairly neglected FJ didn't have the latest and greatest.

So, what's next for my North American ex-pat?

A minor top-end rebuild. Yummy smokes more than me (yes I really need to quit, but so does she, and I can force her  :sarcastic:!).

GSXR rear wheel.
If the improvement is anything like the front end, I'm there. Any skips on the forum have a rear they want to sell?

If not I'll be trawling the wreckers for one.

In the mean time I'll be arranging for a boob-job for Yummy.

One last thing. For those who have 'mud wasps' or wasps that make mud/clay nests in your area (yep they're global) check the hidden parts of your bike. They make nests in the most inaccessible places that can completely f%$k your bike. I was astounded at how many and varied types of nest this bike had scattered through it. Sure some must have been from the good ol US-of-A, but STREWTH! Nearly every orifice this bike has was plugged, the cooling fins on the top of the engine were FULL, also underneath the switch blocks, in the fairing, under seat, crikey fellas, almost more mud than bike.
Easy to fix, but they will likely stop up important bits & pieces if you don't watch out.
Having said that though, we are talking about FJ's here. If there's a way they'll still start, run and get you home.

Next post will be either the boob-job or rear wheel, or more f#@king wasp anectdotes (none have been alive thankfully!)....

Fooling around with Yummy up on the hoist I decided to put some air in the front tyre....one distraction out of the shed...all my fault...

Bugger!!!

That has to be the saddest pix I've seen..

:empathy3:

Amazingly only major damage was the windscreen is smashed and the LH handle bar is bent a bit. Some scratches on the fairing, but in spots where there were already scratches.
The mirrors, side covers and seat were off. Effie copped a smack from the handle bar on the way over, but again, the side cover was already needing a re-paint.
The rear sub-frame was shoved about 150mm to the right but came back almost exactly into position.
My main problem now is it seems to only run on two or three cylinders.
Should I start by giving the carbies a gentle tap?

Quote from: roverfj1200 on April 02, 2016, 06:42:39 PM
That has to be the saddest pix I've seen..

:empathy3:

+1 not good mate. :shok:

Quote from: roverfj1200 on April 02, 2016, 06:42:39 PM
That has to be the saddest pix I've seen..

:empathy3:

Nahhh....just looks like they`re trying to mate!...good time ta check out that oil pump gauze, sump plug etc!
(there`s always a positive me thinks!)  :drinks:

Quote from: Troyskie on April 02, 2016, 06:48:56 PM
Amazingly only major damage was the windscreen is smashed and the LH handle bar is bent a bit. Some scratches on the fairing, but in spots where there were already scratches.
The mirrors, side covers and seat were off. Effie copped a smack from the handle bar on the way over, but again, the side cover was already needing a re-paint.
The rear sub-frame was shoved about 150mm to the right but came back almost exactly into position.
My main problem now is it seems to only run on two or three cylinders.
Should I start by giving the carbies a gentle tap?

You probably should start with the carbs, but if that doesn't do it, check the plug wires. When I lowsided my FJ, one of the plug wires fell off. It was pretty tricky trying to ride it out of the ditch back onto the road on three cylinders.
Joe

Bloody hell, how'd ya end up get him pointing the right way up?.

Same thing nearly happened  to my RD last night. Lucky it only weighs about half the FJ

   You silly bugger but I don't need to tell you that.  :dash2: Pull the spark plugs and give it a good long wind over with the starter. You have probably oiled the plugs and got too much oil to burn when trying to start it. Let it sit for a few hours, to let the residual oil drain back to where it belongs and don't do it again.
   Regards, pete.

Troy..... I have a spare set of handle bars....... yours if you want them mate.

Harvy

Ouch!!! Your lucky there wasn't more damage Troy. They bend and break shit just falling over off the stand, let alone a 2 foot drop off the lift.

I know your pain Troyskie.  I tried loading my FJ into the back of my pickup once (by myself), and well... it didn't end well for me.  Luckily though, the bike didn't land on it's topside, but instead rolled 360 degrees off the loading ramp and landed back on it's tires. I was lucky; just a smashed front fender (which was the only piece of plastic still available from Yamaha), a small, barely noticeable crack on the tail cover, and an oily K&N air filter and air box.  At the time, I was advised to clean the filter and air box, let the bike sit for a bit to let the oil drain back down, and to expect oil to seep out of various vents and/or drain hoses (and yes it did, but fortunately it was minimal).

Glad to hear your damage wasn't worse, and hopefully cleaning the plugs solves your "missing" cylinder problem.

Ouch!  Troy, that sucks.  Bad enough to get road rash due to making a rider error, or car driver error.  Glad to hear it wasn't worse.  Keep that USA FJ on the path and keep updating and polishing.

Ed

Thanks fellas!
Harvy, mate I'll take up your offer of the handle bars.
I took Yummy for a test run. Sweet as a button, but the LHS handle bar is more bent than I thought. I think one of the POs has dropped her on the other side and the RHS is bent, but not as much, no gravel rash so it was likely a stationary drop.

Total damage is, miraculously,
1 x Windscreen
1 x handle bar
1 x embarrassment
2 x days in shed fixing (well, this was a shiny side  :drinks: )

I can't believe the top & bottom front fairings, tank, mufflers, front guard, duck tail, indicators etc. survived without major damage.

The running poorly was partly a bit of oil in the head, but not much more than gets in from the worn valve stem guide seals. It turned out that a fair amount of fuel leaked out and the bike was in that fake running out of fuel mode, and the false reserve was not on as the PO had butchered that wiring circuit. I repaired it with some of my own butchery, but the reserve switch now works. She was running properly after that.

What lessons have I learned?
After three beers I'd better lower the hoist, and not attempt any important work on the bike, especially,.....NEVER TOUCH THE TYRES WHEN ITS ON THE HOIST  :diablo:  :ireful: :bomb: :dash1: :dash2:

The pics are of Yummy getting her tail straightened. It was waaay worse, and after the tail pic, we finessed it back to within a couple of mm. All the plastics etc. went back on perfectly, all holes lining up really well. There's also a pic of Yummy good as new...phew  :crazy:

Wow! The damage seems quite minor based on the pic of her tits up. Good to see that she is making a real good recovery.  :good2:

Very very lucky mate!

I can't find a parts matched GSXR rear wheel, so I'm going ahead with the FZR rear. I've a couple of machining options so doing the cush etc. should be ok. I'll also still have the stock rear for measurements etc.

Hey Troy, have you thought about trying an xjr1300 rear wheel. There's one on Gumtree with tyre for $65.00, and one on eBay with tyre and caliper for $150.00. Not sure if they require machining to fit or not but certainly cheap enough.

 :wacko1:  :blush: Bones, I'm such a donkey sometimes. I didn't think of it.

I got excited and went ahead with the FZR yesterday. Fingers crossed it will be as I hope.

Top idea though!

Hey mate anything you need let me know. I'm in Newcastle NSW and wrecking an 87 FJ1200. Nowhere near the condition yours is in but might be something you need and there's not much in Aus. Just PM me or see my wreck post in the for sale section

Thanks mate, PM on the way

Lots of parts have arrived.  :dance:  :dance2:
1995 FZR1000 rear wheel & associated bits.
A large box o bits from Randy for both Yummy & Effie.

Yummy is a smoker, real cloud-up from start-up, too much to put up with and an hours cruise showed some oil use.
Whilst she is up on the hoist for a new rear....I think I'll take the plunge and have a go at a minor top-end rebuild. I've never done more than watch and assist, so this will be a REAL education for me.

List of parts I don't have yet for the minor top end I've put together are:
Valve stem guide seals.
Rings.
Rocker cover gasket.

I believe with the last order to Randy, I have all the rest of the gaskets, plus clutch parts I'll need, but if there are suggestions of parts I've forgotten feel free to add to the list.

As the bike only has 38,000 original miles I'm not going to do any 'performance' mods on the motor. With the new wheels and tight motor, it is more than enough for me, so stock is my goal (plus I assume it will be more straight forward given my novice level competence)

Looking good Troy, keep the updates coming.

Thanks Mark, this will be fun, and a little scary...me with a spanner?  :wacko2:

Quote from: Troyskie on April 07, 2016, 07:24:45 PM
Thanks Mark, this will be fun, and a little scary...me with a spanner?  :wacko2:

Yea, we saw what you did to an FJ without supervision. Maybe you need a trained adult to watch over your shoulder.... :lol:

Might have to go with mid-strength beer whilst tinkering.... :biggrin:

Quote from: Troyskie on April 07, 2016, 07:40:52 PM
Might have to go with mid-strength beer whilst tinkering.... :biggrin:

Better off with this... Wombat wiz...

(https://www.owliquors.com/image/cache/data/beer/fosters/fosters-lager-can-500x500.jpg)

:flag_of_truce:

Fosters?  Really?  I think the Monkey owes the Aussies an apology for that one.   :biggrin:  Dave

Quote from: TexasDave on April 07, 2016, 08:27:27 PM
Fosters?  Really?  I think the Monkey owes the Aussies an apology for that one.   :biggrin:  Dave

Already included....  see end of post. :flag_of_truce:

And the reference to wombat wiz....   :blum1:

Married to an Aussie means I need to understand some proper Aussie. When they get mad, I run for cover...

Quote from: FJmonkey on April 07, 2016, 08:32:04 PM

Quote from: TexasDave on April 07, 2016, 08:27:27 PM
Fosters?  Really?  I think the Monkey owes the Aussies an apology for that one.   :biggrin:  Dave

Already included....  see end of post. :flag_of_truce:

And the reference to wombat wiz....   :blum1:

Married to an Aussie means I need to understand some proper Aussie. When they get mad, I run for cover...

"Wombat Wiz" would probably taste better than Fosters. I think Troyski might need some good honest JD for the work he is considering (especially without adult supervision). That way if she falls over again, he won't care (at least for a while)

Mark

Quote from: Urban_Legend on April 08, 2016, 12:42:02 AM

"Wombat Wiz" would probably taste better than Fosters....

Mark

This wombat I found on the side of the road on the trip back from Troy's manshed weekend clearly doesn't think much of VB either.

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/696/23338392481_4fd910a79d_c.jpg)

Noel

Quote from: FJmonkey on April 07, 2016, 08:32:04 PM
......When they get mad, I run for cover...

When they get mad, we ALL run for cover....

Back from the desert & straight into the shed.

Looking at all the red sand, spinifex, etc. gave me a fair amount of time to ponder how to get the FZR wheel to fit into Yummy.

The obvious one was measure the width of the hub.

A quick measure provided the std FJ rear wheel hub is about 166mm, and the FZR wheel is 186mm, therefore about a 20mm difference.

My problem now is, I can shave the spacers, calliper hanger, and hub by a total of about 12mm absolute screaming maximum, still well shy of the 20mm I need.

Any suggestions on other solutions?

Also, finally did a compression check. Whoa Nelly!!!! I'm amazed she even started, let alone ran as well as she did. I used two different devices, one a standard compression gauge and the second was a 'cylinder leak measuring gauge', both with the 'wet' test as well as the dry. Both gauges gave me the same result. From the LHS it was 85, 150, 85, 85 PSI respectively. The wet test showed the rings are rooted on all except the second one (is that #2 or #3?).

Next question,  should I do the valves whilst the head is off? Probably should, but just checking. I will be doing the valve stem guide seals.

Another question, should I break open the carbies whilst she is in bits? I'm very nervous of doing that as I've NO experience with them (nor have I any experience taking the top end off and doing the rings/valves!!!!  :crazy: ). I know where they are, and where the idle screw is, but that is it. It looks like they were opened at some time in the past.

Finally, as the rear is totally open should I attempt to service/rebuild the rear shock (and probably grease the linkages)? If so, I prefer a re-build, can I get a stronger spring on it (like I've done to the forks)?

Troyskie

Sorry about the photos being on the wrong orientation, fine my end, but always out on the forum.

Another couple of questions lads....

For the top end work, aside from rings and valves, what other parts will I need?

For the carbies, any suggestions on kits, or go for full rebuild bottom up?

Troyskie

Wellllll noooowwww, I've bitten the bullet and will break open the engine while getting a GSXR rear wheel and ebaying the FZR wheel....

Step one, cross my fingers.
Step two, take heaps of photos.
Step three, mid-strength beer only.
Step four, Haynes manual. I seem to recall a couple of comments on some errors. Can anyone remember what they are?

I have no experience with this but it might be worth a shot.
TECH-SPARK (http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-FJ1100-Service-Maintenance-1984-1993/dp/B00JEG2FSQ%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAJYE2C565R6BPOEKQ%26tag%3Dsearchtempest-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00JEG2FSQ)

Thanks Mark, by this are you suggesting I dump the Haynes and get something else?

Quote from: Troyskie on April 21, 2016, 04:59:04 PM
Wellllll noooowwww, I've bitten the bullet and will break open the engine while getting a GSXR rear wheel and ebaying the FZR wheel....

Step one, cross my fingers.
Step two, take heaps of photos.
Step three, mid-strength beer only.
Step four, Haynes manual. I seem to recall a couple of comments on some errors. Can anyone remember what they are?

Troy, let me know if you need a hand, I could be persuaded to spend a day or two helping. Mind you it would only be in an advisory and beer drinking role.
And none of that mid strength shit either!  :drinks:
   Regards, Pete.

Quote from: Troyskie on April 21, 2016, 05:20:07 PM
Thanks Mark, by this are you suggesting I dump the Haynes and get something else?

No. I have a Climers manual but not a Haynes so I cannot suggest one over the other, the Climers works for me so far. The Yamaha manual is the best to get, just not sure how easy or inexpensive they are. When I did a search for one I came across that source.

Cool mate. The Haynes has had what I need so far. Fred mentioned he did his bike following it, so I'll follow his lead.
Troy

Get the genuine Yamaha factory service manual if at all possible.

Quote from: Troyskie on April 17, 2016, 04:26:58 PM
Back from the desert & straight into the shed.

Looking at all the red sand, spinifex, etc. gave me a fair amount of time to ponder how to get the FZR wheel to fit into Yummy.

The obvious one was measure the width of the hub.

A quick measure provided the std FJ rear wheel hub is about 166mm, and the FZR wheel is 186mm, therefore about a 20mm difference.

My problem now is, I can shave the spacers, calliper hanger, and hub by a total of about 12mm absolute screaming maximum, still well shy of the 20mm I need.

Any suggestions on other solutions?

Also, finally did a compression check. Whoa Nelly!!!! I'm amazed she even started, let alone ran as well as she did. I used two different devices, one a standard compression gauge and the second was a 'cylinder leak measuring gauge', both with the 'wet' test as well as the dry. Both gauges gave me the same result. From the LHS it was 85, 150, 85, 85 PSI respectively. The wet test showed the rings are rooted on all except the second one (is that #2 or #3?).

Next question,  should I do the valves whilst the head is off? Probably should, but just checking. I will be doing the valve stem guide seals.

Another question, should I break open the carbies whilst she is in bits? I'm very nervous of doing that as I've NO experience with them (nor have I any experience taking the top end off and doing the rings/valves!!!!  :crazy: ). I know where they are, and where the idle screw is, but that is it. It looks like they were opened at some time in the past.

Finally, as the rear is totally open should I attempt to service/rebuild the rear shock (and probably grease the linkages)? If so, I prefer a re-build, can I get a stronger spring on it (like I've done to the forks)?

Troyskie

Hi Troy

So you got an FZR wheel as opposed to the YZF wheel then ?
Did you read up on this mod from this post ? - don't know what the differences in those wheels are, but I did use the whole swingarm too which simplifies it somewhat but there is still some machining involved. 20mm is a fair bit though. was that with any spacers fitted ?

http://www.fjmods.co.uk/ (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/?)

Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 21, 2016, 07:22:13 PM
Get the genuine Yamaha factory service manual if at all possible.

+1

I have both the factory SM and the Haynes.

The factory SM is so much better in practical use, but does require that you have some basic mechanical skills.

Quote from: FJools on April 21, 2016, 07:34:55 PM
Hi Troy

So you got an FZR wheel as opposed to the YZF wheel then ?
Did you read up on this mod from this post ? - don't know what the differences in those wheels are, but I did use the whole swingarm too which simplifies it somewhat but there is still some machining involved. 20mm is a fair bit though. was that with any spacers fitted ?

http://www.fjmods.co.uk/ (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/?)

Nice suggestion Jools.

I rang Pete as he has done the FZR1000 rear mod & he kindly popped his rear wheel off to check the milling of the FZR wheel he has. We both have identical FZR1000 wheels aside from colour, so I now have the recipe to complete the rear 17x5.5" FZR rear mod. (Thanks Pete!). The only other difference on the wheels is they've updated the bearings between his and mine and use a stepped spacer. I'm pretty happy about that as popping the rear wheel back in is a cinch as the spacer self locates.

Other good news with the FZR mod is the brake disc uses an identical calliper, so no need to re-locate or re-hang the calliper, even uses the FJ calliper hanger and torque link.

To summarise Pete's recipe on a FZR1000 1990-1995 rear wheel I've include his notes. The sprocket carrier, sprocket carrier spacer, cush rubbers, hub cush rubber 'fingers' and the FJ calliper hanger require milling. Fortunately this is simple (for someone who knows, so obviously NOT me) milling on a lathe. An added benefit of these parts being milled is they are not contact surfaces, or load surfaces so machining shouldn't affect the structural integrity of the wheel. The calliper hanger contact face has 31 years of movement, so milling that is not a problem either.

Pete also went to the trouble of having his chain alignment professionally done so the measurements below should be accurate. I will likely need to lap the spacers for final perfection, but will wait till it's actually on and can do a real check.

Quote from: 4everFJ on April 22, 2016, 03:02:07 AM

Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 21, 2016, 07:22:13 PM
Get the genuine Yamaha factory service manual if at all possible.

+1

I have both the factory SM and the Haynes.

The factory SM is so much better in practical use, but does require that you have some basic mechanical skills.

Thanks fellas. Chris from Texas kindly sent me a link to our Danish cousins and their FJ site with an English YSM for the 1200.
Thanks again Chris...

http://www.fjclub.dk/litteratur/FJ1200-OM-Engelsk.pdf (http://www.fjclub.dk/litteratur/FJ1200-OM-Engelsk.pdf)

That's very good of Pete.

Odd that they went away from the step spacers again on the Thunderace.............I wonder if someone actually modded Petes wheel in the past or maybe its an SP wheel?

I certainly wished I had thought of this when I did my rear wheel as you need to be a 3 armed juggler sometimes and then on occasion it all goes in with no fuss. It does help to get the centre bearing spacer in the right spot first. I have a feeling that the Thunderace axle may be larger diameter that makes getting a bearing to accommodate a step spacer within the outer bearing diameter dimensions more difficult...........

The only other thing to check is that the centre line of disc to caliper centre is correct when its all back together. The joint line of the calliper is good for this.

Quote from: FJools on April 22, 2016, 06:06:04 PM
That's very good of Pete.

Odd that they went away from the step spacers again on the Thunderace.............I wonder if someone actually modded Petes wheel in the past or maybe its an SP wheel?

I certainly wished I had thought of this when I did my rear wheel as you need to be a 3 armed juggler sometimes and then on occasion it all goes in with no fuss. It does help to get the centre bearing spacer in the right spot first. I have a feeling that the Thunderace axle may be larger diameter that makes getting a bearing to accommodate a step spacer within the outer bearing diameter dimensions more difficult...........

The only other thing to check is that the centre line of disc to caliper centre is correct when its all back together. The joint line of the calliper is good for this.

Jools, according to the Boats.net parts lists, Yamaha changed to the stepped spacer for the 1991 FZR 1000. They also changed the spacer and oil seal in the 1990 and later FJ1200's to the same parts as the FZR.

Pete

thanks for that, it does seem odd they didn't carry that through onto the Thunderace.

We may be talking cross purposes though - What I refer to as "stepped" spacers, are those that push into and are held captive in the Wheel bearing itself with the axle pushing right through the entire assembly.Not the spacers that are just held by the oil seal and but up to the inner bearing race, which after some time gets to be a sloppy fit and won't hold the spacer in place during wheel assembly........?

Quote from: FJools on April 22, 2016, 08:41:40 PM
Pete
We may be talking cross purposes though -

You're probably right mate, I'm good at that.

Should I do an engine flush? Seems a bit gunky.

do an oil change with cheapish engine oil. take it for a run, then drain and replace with the good oil and a new filter.

Weeeeellllll noooowwww,

Yummy has gotten back at me for making her learn acrobatics off the hoist.

After following the various manuals for disassembly I discovered a few things about the bikes' history.

Trying to remove the headers, I found why the bike had no bottom cowl. The LHS header collar had some impact damage. No stress, normal after 30 odd years.(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_23_04_16_4_05_27.jpeg)

I have finally understood why so many go for pods. The airbox SUCKS!!! I think Yamaha must have been supporting by-the-hour mechanics when they came up with that idea. If I change to pods do I need to re-jet?


Removing the header studs, one of them came clear out of the head with the nut. It seems to go in fine, but will this be a problem  :scratch_one-s_head:?


Carbies out, baffle off, airbox out, headers off, camshafts etc. off.

Here's where I had a couple of unwelcome surprises.

First, the rubber intake boots are all cracked, annoying, but no biggie. (http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_23_04_16_4_11_00_0.jpeg)

Next, the bolt studs and pin dowels. Whilst removing them one made crunchy noises, then when they were all free this one came out with the stud attached to the nut. It went back in ok, just like the exhaust stud, but has a overall surface corrosion.

When trying to remove the head there was lots more crunching and then the appearance of oxidised metal, corrosion dust, and other crud.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_23_04_16_4_11_00_1.jpeg)

Trying as best I could, I believe I managed to remove the head without any of this getting down into the motor (mainly down the cam chain shaft)  :ireful:.

Next was the barrels. Obviously same issue with more at stake as the crank was now open to any crud getting in. My best effort was not enough and some of this crud made it down. I know this because one large chunk of zinc oxide dropped into #4. I believe it was zinc oxide (or similar corrosion swarf) as my magnet thingy wouldn't pick it up & it disappeared when I bumped it.
:dash2:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_23_04_16_4_11_00_3.jpeg)

I'm assuming it is now time to split the crank case and give her a nice clean-up as there must be more oxide dust and specks down there. So Jools, looks like I won't need to do the flush hey mate? :blush:

Here's a pic of the debris. Most of it is this corrosion crud, mostly non-magnetic. The long piece I picked off the bolt stud, so must be some sort of zinc oxide or whatever plating is used on the bolt studs. Also as you can see from one of the pics above, the some of the pin dowels have completely corroded. At least this is ferritic so I can pick that up with the magnet, but looks like the pin dowels will need replacing too.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_23_04_16_4_11_00_5.jpeg)

At least I was correct about the rings being rooted. Here's a pic of #4, clearly oil washed by buggered rings.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_23_04_16_4_11_00_4.jpeg)

I haven't really checked the condition of the head or bores, that is the next step.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_23_04_16_4_11_00_6.jpeg)

Too far to turnback now............... :good2:

I see a full on resto appearing

Troy, the studs coming out with the nuts is not a problem.

If you are only splitting cases for the purpose of cleaning you might want to consider doing something like this (or take it somewhere and do it)

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8205/8248626215_49c3663a3e_c.jpg)

The plastic hose on the end of the nozzle allows for poking it around all the nooks and crannies.

Just take the sump off and flush hundreds of litres of kero through it.

Every bit of unnecessary disassembly increases the risk of something going wrong. You've already got plenty on you hands with a top end rebuild

Just a thought.

Noel

Troy, looks like you are in ankle deep. During my engine build, I did not split the cases. I removed the sump cover and oil pump pick up. It allows the engine to so square on the work bench. Once I had the head, cylinder block and ok pistons removed. I removed all of the remaining plastic coverings on the cylinder studs. I used a 1" by 24" strip of 60 grit emory cloth and removed all of the surface rust on the cylinder studs. Once I had all of the surface cleaning done. I bought a case of carb cleaner and a roll of pig mat from the auto parts store. I also removed the clutch cover and all of the clutch discs. I placed three layers of pig mat under the engine. I used the carb cleaner and liberally sprayed all through the engine including rolling the engine forward to exposed the underside and sprayed and sprayed until there was no more grit and grime to see. I used 1200*f BBQ grill paint sprayed into a cup with a small paint brush to cover the cylinder studs. From there assembly commenced.

I now have 1000 miles on the engine and an you ago I drained the second batch of break-in oil. The oil went in a very dark purple and has come out a very dark purple. The magnetic drain plug has very little fuzz on it.

My pistons looked very much like Yummy's when I removed them.

Here is a shot of what mine looked like and then a shot of the new pistons with 500 miles on them.

Noel, If I don't have the split the crank case I'll use any method I can that is quicker and cheaper.

I was going to take the barrels and head into the local mechanics anyway as they can measure and tell me what parts, ring sizes, valves bla bla, I'll be needing. I know they have one of those jobbies in your photo, & they'll probably let me have a go at it myself.
Regardless of what I end up paying them, I've already saved myself HEAPS by getting this far on my own.

You are absolutely correct about breaking her open any more. I'm already wondering how on earth I'll ever get all the bits back together without having a pile of parts and wondering,....'what was that from?'
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_23_04_16_7_53_49_2.jpeg)

I've put every screw and nut back in its home place, and for those that are off, I've used some paper or cardboard and labelled them and put them in the sequence they were on the bike.

Fred, Here are the pics of the bore and head. Some scoring on #1, but the rest seem ok to my novice eye.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_23_04_16_7_53_48_0.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_23_04_16_7_53_48_1.jpeg)

So I won't need to replace the studs then? Awesome, but I will need to replace most of the dowel pins as the majority of them have corroded to nothing.

Thanks also for the encouragement on the pistons, hopefully this rebuild won't be as big as I thought last night.

Harvy, PM sent re the handlebars.

Before I remove the engine I'm going to follow through on a suggestion from Pete and get myself a kero gun and see how effective that is.

I'll flood the sump and swish it around then drain via the sump plug, then run the kero gun down through the piston holes and flush it all out with the sump removed. My success check will be finding that large bit. As the engine has not been run, any crap should have fallen straight down, and hydraulic traction of the kero should deposit the debris on the sump plate. I know I'll need to be careful.

Next steps will be to clean up the bolt studs and use Freds' method of coating them with BBQ black.

Head and barrels off to Glenn Henry tomorrow, so I'll have a professional perspective on their condition. Everything off gets a coat of paint.

Wheel gets machined this coming week. I'll get new chain, sprockets, bearings and tyres once it fits up.

Rear shock is going for reconditioning and I'll have the thing upgraded so the back is as good as the front, but I'll keep the OEM adjuster thingy to make changes to the set-up easier.

Overall tidy-up while she's in bits.

Quote from: Troyskie on April 24, 2016, 06:32:15 PM
Before I remove the engine I'm going to follow through on a suggestion from Pete and get myself a kero gun and see how effective that is.

I'll flood the sump and swish it around then drain via the sump plug, then run the kero gun down through the piston holes and flush it all out with the sump removed. My success check will be finding that large bit. As the engine has not been run, any crap should have fallen straight down, and hydraulic traction of the kero should deposit the debris on the sump plate. I know I'll need to be careful.

Next steps will be to clean up the bolt studs and use Freds' method of coating them with BBQ black.

Troy, I love my kero gun, in fact I recently posted about it, but I'm not sure this is the right application for it. Kero at 120 psi is just going to blast the bits you want to wash out to furtherest recesses of the crankcase.

Kero guns are big on pressure and low on kero, it would take a long time to "flood" the sump.
Why leave the sump on anyway if you're wanting to flush stuff out the bottom and if the motor's sitting upright, how do you get the sump off without tipping the motor on it's side - with all the crap then floating somewhere else and how the hell do you "swish" it around in something as heavy as an engine?

You are not "cleaning" but "flushing" - volume not pressure. Don't forget, the rubbish you want to flush out just fell in there, it's not stuck on. You just want to rinse away the loose debris, not degrease it.

An at home easy solution maybe to sit the engine (without sump) on a metal bucket and buy one of those fuel transfer pumps from the hardware or auto accessory shops ($20) with a couple of lengths of plastic hose. 10 litres of kero in the bucket (recirculating) and flush to you hearts content. You can put hundreds of litres through it this way.

The crud that accumulates around the studs contains a lot of fine grade grit (nothing larger can make it's way in there) and is exactly the size you don't want floating around your engine.

You can then use the kero (in the kero gun) to prepare the casings and other bits for painting.

I have found after many years and many engines that a kero gun wash followed by a high pressure clean is all you need as prep for painting, and no one can argue with the results.

Prep and a fantastic paint job is so simple many feel it doesn't seem right and choose to make the process more complicated, often counter productive.

Regarding painting the engine studs, unless you chemically neutralise the rust first, whatever you paint over it is a waste of time. I didn't do anything to mine except remove the flaky rust but if you are going to paint them, you need to treat them first, otherwise the rust process will just continue under the paint.

Of course, when you do your next motor, you'll rotate it 90 deg forward so the crud falls to the ground when you pull the barrel's (having learnt my lesson the first time)

Noel

Quote from: ribbert on April 25, 2016, 06:36:37 AM
Kero guns are big on pressure and low on kero, it would take a long time to "flood" the sump.
My plan was to pour in the kero at first.
Why leave the sump on anyway if you're wanting to flush stuff out the bottom and if the motor's sitting upright, how do you get the sump off without tipping the motor on it's side - with all the crap then floating somewhere else and how the hell do you "swish" it around in something as heavy as an engine?
The engine is still in the frame and on the hoist. With a few litres of Kero in the crankcase my plan was to rock the bike side to side

An at home easy solution maybe to sit the engine (without sump) on a metal bucket and buy one of those fuel transfer pumps from the hardware or auto accessory shops ($20) with a couple of lengths of plastic hose. 10 litres of kero in the bucket (recirculating) and flush to you hearts content. You can put hundreds of litres through it this way.
Nice suggestion, I think I'll try this

The crud that accumulates around the studs contains a lot of fine grade grit (nothing larger can make it's way in there) and is exactly the size you don't want floating around your engine.
Agreed, I am nervous about that.
You can then use the kero (in the kero gun) to prepare the casings and other bits for painting.

I have found after many years and many engines that a kero gun wash followed by a high pressure clean is all you need as prep for painting, and no one can argue with the results.

Prep and a fantastic paint job is so simple many feel it doesn't seem right and choose to make the process more complicated, often counter productive.

Regarding painting the engine studs, unless you chemically neutralise the rust first,
From my experience with galvanic corrosion (proven by the plating going first), I am going to use a rust converter first, then paint to add more separation from the different metals. Leaving the stud bolts uncoated will simply allow any corrosion to continue. Mind you it did take over 30 years to get to this state, so I'm probably over doing it  :crazy:

All in all, I've not done the above yet, so if you see a flaw in my amateur plan point it out. The above method is mostly to keep the engine in the frame.

I discovered how easy it is to remove the pistons, & didn't even drop any circlips into the crank  :yahoo: , I did however drop a screw driver into #4  :dash1: , but with some wine, the radio, and my trusty magnet thingy I managed to retrieve it  :dance2: .
In doing this I found a HUGE bit of crud,....here's a pic...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_25_04_16_3_33_14_0.jpeg)

I then looked a bit more closely (put my glasses on now...getting serious here), and managed to retrieve the following...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_25_04_16_3_33_14_1.jpeg)

With the pistons out I can now see lots of tiny debris I thought I'd prevented from falling in, so the flush is a must.

New question. Noel, you mentioned painting the engine, which I plan to do. A couple of members (and I think a few posts on the forum), have mentioned to me that engine paint needs to be heated by running the engine for a while before it hardens.

Any suggestions on how I might paint the barrels, head, and valve cover while they're off, and then get them back on without buggering the paint? I'm assuming it will be tacky or super soft till heated.

Troy

Quote from: Troyskie on April 25, 2016, 05:28:47 PM
I then looked a bit more closely (put my glasses on now...getting serious here), and managed to retrieve the following...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/9/4629_25_04_16_3_33_14_1.jpeg)
Troy

Troy,

Just for confirmation, that is actually hardened rubber that used to coat the studs that were exposed to the elements.

That is why your magnet did not work trying to get it out the first time.

Randy - RPM

Buy a used oven and cure the paint, then sell it off for what you paid for it.

Thanks Randy! I was going to use my XRF scanner to grade the metal to see what it actually was. I now understand why they've corroded they way they have, so now I can better prepare them for the future.

Mark, not a bad idea, how about a bbq with plates only, no grilles, set to low & baked for an hour? Re the head, I'm assuming I'll need any bits out before paint-n-bake?
Also, what temp is safe for these aluminium components? A quick squiz on the web came up with one product statement saying bake at 93c (200F) for 20 min. I assume these parts can cope with more heat, but I'm also thinking that warping may be an issue if I'm heating them up whilst separated from the engine.

Quote from: Troyskie on April 25, 2016, 07:37:59 PM
Thanks Randy! I was going to use my XRF scanner to grade the metal to see what it actually was. I now understand why they've corroded they way they have, so now I can better prepare them for the future.

Mark, not a bad idea, how about a bbq with plates only, no grilles, set to low & baked for an hour? Re the head, I'm assuming I'll need any bits out before paint-n-bake?
Also, what temp is safe for these aluminium components? A quick squiz on the web came up with one product statement saying bake at 93c (200F) for 20 min. I assume these parts can cope with more heat, but I'm also thinking that warping may be an issue if I'm heating them up whilst separated from the engine.

The aluminum will melt somewhere around 1200F or 660C So keep it lower and your good. :good2:

Any issues re warping?

Quote from: Troyskie on April 25, 2016, 08:24:27 PM
Any issues re warping?

You are already warped, if you mean the aluminum then follow the directions to cure the paint....

 :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks:
RTFM
:drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks:
:lol:

All the bits that need out of shed work are now out and under way, except for the rear shock. I'll do some checking on what I want to do with it and report back.

Troy
interesting reading about your woes................

Are those studs serviceable ? If I had my motor stripped down this far I would probably replace them. The last thing you want is a stud shearing off as you torque the head down mate.

G'day Jools, I'm pretty confident they're ok, but a look at the ones on the 1100 suggest they were replaced by a PO, or were never rubber coated.

As you suggest I think I'll replace them.

How the heck to I get them out?

You can try locking two nuts together on the stud and see if they'll budge that way.

Quote from: Bones on April 28, 2016, 03:53:00 AM
You can try locking two nuts together on the stud and see if they'll budge that way.

As a general rule this is a great method for removing studs but in this case they are too long and the applied torque is dissipated over the length of the stud. You can wind those things around an 1/8 of a turn or more and they'll just spring back.
If they do come loose , they weren't tight to start with.

If you must remove them, try vice grips, as tight as you can get them and as near to the case as possible, this reduces the torsional twisting of the stud and applies nearly all the force to the thread. Then give them a few good belts with a hammer on top of the stud (at this point they are no longer useable if you change your mind)

Having said that, my personal opinion is unless they are beyond serviceable use, leave them alone.
This particular job has a history of going pear shaped.
If you do decide to replace them, make sure you get the right studs, I would think Randy could advise on this.

If you do decide to go down this path, I would suggest cleaning off the flaky rust and get your mechanic's opinion on whether they need replacing or not.

"While I'm in there I might as well......." syndrome is one of the greatest causes of bike and car engines never running again. You've got enough on your plate without needlessly taking on unnecessary work.

My two bobs worth.
(That would be two cents worth for our US brethren)

Noel

Once again I hate to agree 100% with what Noel said--but if it ain't broke don't fix it! Having rebuilt several VW engines the only time I would remove cylinder studs was if they came out of the case while removing the nuts on the head. This happens very infrequently. Chances of weakening the aluminum threads are greater removing them than letting them be and wire brushing the rust off and reassembling as is.  Dave

Quote from: TexasDave on April 28, 2016, 07:19:48 AM
Once again I hate to agree 100% with what Noel said--
Dave

Geez Dave, why do you always make it sound like such a struggle?  :biggrin:

Noel

FYI, there is a special tool made for removing those long studs.

(http://racetoolz.com/resources/homethumbs/studpuller.jpg)
http://racetoolz.com/ (http://racetoolz.com/)

However, Noel is correct, if they are not stretched, leave them alone. The plastic coating on them (burned off) is not important.

Righto then, common wisdom rules, I'll leave them alone.

As I mentioned, I think they're ok. The corrosion appears to be superficial. I'm going to zinc rub the cleaned shaft to add some corrosion resistance to the substrate then BBQ black them to add a barrier coat. A gentle piano style flick on each (both good and corroded ones) sounds the same note, so I'm guessing there are no fractures or excess stress.

There are some cold gal paints that quote heat resistance up to 300C (572F). Does anyone have any idea how hot our motors actually get? If it's under 300 I'd rather cold gal them completely to increase corrosion resistance.

Another question, several of the dowel pins which collar the studs have corroded to nothing & are the source of the corrosion to begin with. Do I replace them?

Troy

The front part of the head gets the hottest. Exhaust Gas Temps (EGT) can reach 1200-1400*F

Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 28, 2016, 09:54:00 PM
The front part of the head gets the hottest. Exhaust Gas Temps (EGT) can reach 1200-1400*F

The temps are a bit steep for Alum, alloys can alter it a bit. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=melting%20temp%20of%20aluminum (https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=melting%20temp%20of%20aluminum)

I would say less than 1200 F. But that assumes the gas is that hot and the air cooling keeps the metal under the melting point... Damn HOT!!!  :diablo:

Whilst I'm busy sourcing parts I thought I'd crack on with some other bits whilst the kids were developing their iPosture :sarcastic:.

As the rear shock is out getting a stiffer spring put in, thought I'd remove, or at least see how hard it is to remove the swingarm.

Super easy as it turns out. Mainly because there is nothing else attached, just a few easy to remove bolts. BUT  :ireful: after some careful reading of my manual the bloody thing didn't want to move.

A couple of beers, a general tinker, re-read of the manual and, then a close look with a bright light. The answer is obvious to the rest of you who've done it, but now I know.

I've learnt to lift it up about 40mm, and then it clears the frame holding it.

I know this is simple, but this little step was totally missed in the manual & if you forced it straight out you'd do serious damage, perhaps even ruin half your bike.

Anyway, now I know how easy it is to remove the swingarm, I won't have any concerns in the future doing this. Many tedious jobs will now be heaps easier.

I just realised as I type this that the FZR wheel is due back this week, & with the swingarm out it will be much easier to check fit the caliper hanger mount narrowing and getting the calliper to centre on the disc.

I still hope I can get this all back together!!!

Next steps before I hopefully start putting Yummy back together will be:
Clutch fix, straight out of the forum with the larger fibre plate on the end. I'll be replacing the fibre plates and diaphragm spring while I'm there (thanks Randy).
Flush the crankcase.
Change some dodgey connectors on the wiring.
General clean-up as she's in bits.
Paint up what I can (I'm not doing the whole thing this time, perhaps next time).

Here's some pics of the weekends continued disassembly...I hope I can get this all back together!!! (I think I said that already  :flag_of_truce:)

I double checked the pictures, they were righ :ireful: :ireful: :ireful: :ireful: :ireful: :ireful:t way up  :ireful:

Any suggestions about a chain buffer replacement? One of the PO's decided it wasn't necessary....Need a solution...

This place is in the U.S.. I have purchased used parts from them a few times with great results. Possibly send them an email about the swing arm guide in box number 75.

here is the direct link to the photo of Box 75

https://picasaweb.google.com/114333149059306462902/UsedParts?authkey=Gv1sRgCPrL0bzw-deBlgE&feat=flashalbum#5401134160083592434 (https://picasaweb.google.com/114333149059306462902/UsedParts?authkey=Gv1sRgCPrL0bzw-deBlgE&feat=flashalbum#5401134160083592434)

Here is the link to Poway Motorcycles.

http://powaymotorcycle.com/SanDiego/ (http://powaymotorcycle.com/SanDiego/)

The only other options that I have thought of...... look on eBay for '84-'87 swing arms that come with the chain guide still attached and in good shape, or do a swap to a late model FJ, Thunder Ace, or FZ1/Fazer 1000 swing arm.

Fred

Thanks Fred. That gives me an idea. I think I'll try some wreckers to see what they may have.

I bought a swing arm that had the chain guard but it wasn't whole after shipping. I used AC236B1/2 Sealant to stick it together and to the swing arm along with the one screw. The AC236 is doesn't get rock hard and sticks to most everything, only time will tell if it will hold.

Chris

Aw Crap, I am feeling the need to reverse engineer another FJ part. The '86 swing arm is already off so all I need is to play hooky from work for a bit and figure out a proper and easy fix. I might need to sell this to Randy for an RMP exclusive product...

Some progress last night.

Did the clutch mod & replaced the narrow fibre. I must say, for someone as mechanically challenged as I am this seemed to go very smoothly, and quick, really, it only took about an hour. So anyone with a slippy clutch, do the mod. Tools required, socket set and a torque wrench.

Check measured the fibre plates and friction plates. Good as new, compared dims with the new ones, all very nice.

I did replace the diaphragm spring with a new one just in case, but it was measuring nicely and looking pretty good. I'll keep it for a spare. So I basically have a complete clutch set spare, woo hoo! More parts for the shed.

A bit of a fail with the FZR wheel. More machining required.

I'll now be taking 1.2mm off the sprocket side spacer and another 6 odd mm off the wheel on the sprocket side, plus same off the sprocket carrier. At this point I'll need to take away some of the hub outer and maintain the inner step.

Hopefully this will be completed this week and I can have the wheel on for the weekend.

Parts for the top end are now being ordered (1219 Wiseco is cheaper than 2nd oversize OEM!!), so possibly another month and I'll have Yummy purring (if I can put it all back together!!!!!! :crazy:).

I'm beginning to understand moditis. When the bike is in bits I may as well do the .....and the.... :wacko3:

Lots o work meetings & stuff this week, so very little work on Yummy. Haven't even had the time to sort out some parts questions with the local shop/Randy.

Anyhoo, late yesterday picked up the FZR wheel from the local machine shop. A little stuff-up with the spacer that we'll sort next week, but  :yahoo:  :yahoo: it fits very nicely. I'll test fit to double check chain alignment.

Now time for a little clean-up, paint, and new bearings & tyre.

The rest of the bike will begin getting some touch-up and paint after I give her a good clean. Clean process will be kero, then degrease and some rubbing back, then lots of tape for the paint.

Here's some pics of the wheel.

   G'day Troy, if you need help with your choice of tyre, give me a call or PM. I've tried most of the latest and greatest in the 17" range.
Happy to help with advice on your selection.  :good2:
   Regards, Pete.

thanks Pete, I'll take you up on that.
Troyskie

Test fit before clean.....perfect :good2:

check it again when the tyre is fitted Troy.............it looks a little close

Thanks Jools, by a little close do you mean where the tyre would be to the chain?

my guess work is that I'll be using a 170 instead of the preferred 180, but there is still some 'wiggle' room to shift the chain over a smidge.

   Troy, if you can't run a 180, your wheel can't be centred correctly. If you had to change some of the machining dimensions that I gave you, the FZR spacers must be a different length to the original FJ spacers. I have the same rear wheel as you and I have 4 to 5mm chain to tyre clearance with a 180.
   Regards, Pete.

Some 180's are wider that others. Avons and Dunlops run wide. Michelins are ok.

Off topic I know but......

my mate just sent me a photo of a clean FJ1200 at Bodella M/C for $2500 full touring gear and very tidy. He reckons they will take $2200.

Did some work this weekend. Earned the brownie points in the garden, then wore out the kids, then I hit the shed.

The mission this weekend was to refit and check measure the rear. Then some kero cleaning.

Re fit of the swingarm went well. I've a fair bit of practice at it now and only takes a few minutes. There is about 12-13mm, or around 1/2 inch from the rim to the chain stud/rivet. I measured the old 180 tyre that came with the wheel it it hangs about 9-10mm past the rim seat so I think I'll be fine.

I'm making a new spacer for the sprocket carrier for it all to fit neat and tight. There will be a 2mm washer off the calliper hanger which will be fixed in place to avoid the 1 armed wallpaper hanger routine on putting the rear wheel back.

Then the fun part. As removing the engine is not convenient for me right now I decided to clean on the hoist with a Frankenstein style kero bath and pump. Here's the link https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SgH25KyqbNM&feature=em-upload_owner
Worked brilliantly. Impeller fish tank pump (diaphragm won't last), garden hose, and 5 litres of kero. Total cost $30AUD for the under bed plastic box with lid and $15 for the kero.

Really happy with my new clean bike. Flushed the motor first, even the oil cooler.

Down side, kero really stinks.

I removed the oil pickup filter thingy and found some silastic stuff, but also some metal. Here's some pics. I've no idea where they came from.

Progress of a sort.....

Wellllllll, as I'm not lucky enough to live near RoverFJ or lucky enough to have time to travel to his place, I made sure I DID have some quality shed time with Yummy and Effie.

As even my wife had suggested, 'why don't you clean it up while everything is off...' and some forum suggestions have been 'Total resto..' (thanks Jools)..I've begun a clean-up.

Noel, new method. $40 rag wheel & rouge for drill. Nice high polish finish Hardley guys would like, but I'm after the satin finish that riceburners suit. However. My previous method took ages. My intended method is rag wheel, then wet-n-dry, waaaaaaaaay quicker. The wet-n-dry is now the finishing method instead of the only method. The rag wheel also removes scratches as well as wet-n-dry.

I've noted the later FJ's have a more highly polished finish on the aluminium parts than the early jobbies, particularly the 91 on. The earlier ones have a light linish then lacquer and the later models have a polish then lacquer. Also, highly polished looks darker than the linish finish as it picks up darker background reflections than the satin style, so the satin looks 'brighter'.

Most of the parts should be arriving in the next week or so & then the head is off to the shop for machining.

In the mean-time, I'll try to clean Yummy up some more. Not a full resto, but a solid clean and touch-up.

Next paint will be visible frame and rear wheel. Final paint will be the engine, once it's back together. I will be polishing the fin edges back so it looks ridgey-didgey.
Here's a couple of pics of the state to date....

Quote from: Troyskie on May 29, 2016, 04:26:10 AM
Noel, new method. $40 rag wheel & rouge for drill. Nice high polish finish Hardley guys would like, but I'm after the satin finish that riceburners suit.

You're right, I only use the rag wheel on the SS headers and mufflers. I don't need anything more to keep clean/polished.

This a clutch cover that was fairly knocked around, the finish is W&D (have to get the strokes uniform) and a thin coat of clear, zero maintenance. Don't let anyone tell you the lacquer yellows over time or goes motley or peels off, it doesn't.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7608/27326713135_cf7d193413.jpg)    (https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7486/15637542064_c4ec47620d_b.jpg)

                                    5 years ago                                                                                                      6 mths ago

Probably could have been a bit more aggressive with the W&D but it doesn't look quite that shiny in the light.


Noel

Progress!
Let me know if I'm wrong, but when you finally stop pulling things off the bike and start putting them on, is that half way home? Or am I just kidding myself?

A bit more rain & wind than normal stopped the kids sports or garden duties & with due permission I headed down the shed to see if Yummy was in the mood for love.

Turned out, no, she jus wanted some attention and needed me to finish fixing things. Ok.

Whilst I'm waiting for parts and then some head and barrel work I decided to tackle a few chores.

After 30 odd years of PO competence, ingenuity, and some sheer neglect I cleaned up some of the frame paint, polished, W&D & lacquered the footpeg brackets, touched up some other bits, and, here is were it gets optimistic...I actually started putting parts back on!!!! :yahoo: :yahoo:

Like I said, I'm not certain this is a mile-stone. I've never done this to a bike before. Sure I've paid to have it done, but it is waaaaay different skinning your own knuckles, making mistakes, measuring wrong etc.

Here's a summary of where I'm at after two full half shed days....

FZR1000 rear wheel mods complete. Chain and sprockets ordered. Old tyre going on to doubly triply check.
Parts on the way from Randy for the engine.
Swingarm cleaned up and ready to be put back on.
Rear shock is getting some love, but staying mostly standard (stiffer spring is all).
Several wiring bits still to do but nothing major.
Frame touched up but not fully painted.
Some black bits are now black again.
Footpeg brackets looking good (not great, but F!!@#it)

What is left to do...

Get the head machined and ready to put back on.
Barrels get honed/bored to suit the Wiseco kit.
More bits get turned black again.
Assemble.
Clean up the shitty paint on the fairing (polish before repaint me thinks).
Charge battery, fill the carbs & hope she wakes up.

Here's the pics....

More progress!

I finally had all the bits for the FZR1000 rear wheel conversion together and ready to be put on.

Swingarm installation is easy-peasy now & went without a hitch. It does make it easier that there is hardly anything on the bike getting in the way.

Wheel on, chain on, all good!

I then decided to acid test the new rear and popped it on the 1100 (should fit as the swingarms are identical).  :yahoo: :yahoo: all good.

A very tentative test ride, then a little more, feels good. I don't trust the tyre on it at the moment as it is the tyre the wheel came with from the wreckers & I have no idea how old it is. Also the 1100 still has the 16" front wheel on so I don't want to push it too hard.

Here's some pics....I also put one of those cruise control thingys on (testing out before the next rally)

There is NO space left, the 180 tyre is using up everything.

On the chain side the tyre just kisses the chain, and on the brake side the torsion bar has just a smidge of room.

 :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: A big box o' bits from Randy just arrived.

I took the valves, guides, and springs over to the workshop, the head leaves for the specialist today & the barrels are being done this week.

Perhaps two weeks and I can start putting Yummy together.... :wacko2: I hope I can remember where it all goes.

Next bit of progress will be to put a stiffer spring in the rear shock.

Cam chain.
I think it's good, but does anyone know how to check if it's stretched?
Is there a certain number of links you measure?
I'd like to change it now while the head and barrels are off if it needs it.

Bueller,.........Bueller.........?

Noel, thought I'd take a little break from Yummy and weld up a model of a Melbourne Tram for trade show your way in August.....I believe wine will be available at the event.... :biggrin:

Quote from: Troyskie on June 29, 2016, 05:47:14 PM
Noel, thought I'd take a little break from Yummy and weld up a model of a Melbourne Tram for trade show your way in August.....I believe wine will be available at the event.... :biggrin:

Excellent Troy, should be very popular in the Summer.

Did you say they serve wine at this upcoming event......

Noel (Tram expert and trade show attendee)

Progress of sorts.

Got the Pistons in and started to put the barrels over.

I'd discussed various methods with Pete.

Here's some pics....

I've never put new rings on and so have never had to do the barrels over the ring thingy.

WOW, talk about a mind game!  :wacko3:

Of the different methods I learned about, none worked.

Simple reason.

I borrowed a couple of ring compressors but one turned out to be broken.

As you can see from the images I made three from aluminium, but they were not good enough.

I was pretty happy with them, they held the rings nicely, but I could not remove them when the barrels were set.

Sooooo, after accepting my barrels and beautifully set rings needed to come off I though I'd take a break.

SUCCESS!!!

Amazing what a bit of food, glass of wine, family matters, and time off the job will do. :yahoo:

New mixed method that will not work for anyone else.

Do the obvious and start the centre Pistons at top, using hose clamps for compressors.

Next lower the barrels over, tap tap tap. Vice grips on studs to replace person who should be helping. Tap tap tap...

Woo hoo!!!

Ok, outside Pistons,.......cee you next Tuesday, .......nothing will fit the gap that is left. Hose clamps are back in the plumbing bits area.

I don't get it. Mechanics do 4 cylinder ring change everyday. WHERE ARE THE INSTRUCTIONS TO DO THIS :dash2:

Fingers,  :sarcastic: not only are they useful for sooo many other fun things, they can set rings in a barrel too!.

Click click click click. I love that sound. Each time I seated a ring I felt more like giving myself a high 5 than an uppercut.

SENSE OF ACHIEVEMENT  :good2: :good2:

All I need now is the head and rebuilt rear shock. Fkkkkkkkkkkkkking shhhhhhhhhhttttttttttttty busy 'good' specialists. If I wanted to pay a mortgage I do a better job at getting jobs done instead of waiting for some poor prick to call wondering why his job wasn't done three weeks ago :dash2:

Btw FJ fans, I got the barrels on solo and feel pretty darn proud of that. Especially as I've never done this before.

Good on me!!!  :yahoo: :yahoo:

Quote from: Troyskie on August 06, 2016, 07:45:06 AM

....I don't get it. Mechanics do 4 cylinder ring change everyday. WHERE ARE THE INSTRUCTIONS TO DO THIS :dash2:

...in their fingertips.

Noel

Mate, if I did this every day, I'd study at night so I didn't have to! :wacko1:
I'd also have some pretty tough fingers. I didn't realise how sharp rings are.
But I'm still feeling pretty good & enjoyed the  :drinks: afterwards.
However, as I've never done this before, if I've bent a ring (don't think so but.... :blush: ) at least I have chance to sort it out from my new education.

She lives again!

Many thanks to Pete for coming up from Bermagui to help me put the cam shafts back in :good:

Some steady re-assembly but SUCCESS!

I cranked her over a bit with the plugs out to try and get some oil around, then fitted the plugs and tank. Cranked a bit more to get fuel into the carbs, Vroom!  :yahoo:.

A couple of small surprises. The shaft behind the clutch slave came out when the engine fired (along with some oil). The slave was still off (whoops). Should I be looking for a ball bearing as well?

Also, a huge amount of fuel spewed out. I'm not sure where from. I do remember some other members having this issue. Was it stuck floats? Do I need to remove that life sapping airbox to fix (yes dropping the top half of the subframe helps but it still sucks)?

Here's some pics...

   Troy, great to see it's back together and running again. Give  the carb float bowls a moderately hard tap or two with a screwdriver handle, this should get the needles and floats to seat correctly. Don't waste your time looking for the ball bearing, it does not leave the housing. The pushrod will be found hanging out of your cat! :lol:
            Regards, Pete.

Aaaah, the cat. I should have remembered that one!

I'm looking at replacing the hoses as some are pretty old and I had to cut some split ends off, making them annoyingly short.

Thanks again for yesterday mate!

Quote from: Troyskie on August 22, 2016, 05:27:49 PM

She lives again!

That's excellent news Troy, you can now add "Engine Builder" to you CV.

This opens up a whole new world. You can now start conversations with " Yeah, I remember on the last engine I built.........", you can offer sage advice to those who haven't, you can sit at the big boys table at rallies, work on your swagger, proudly display your lacerated finger tips like a badge of honour, you can nod wisely and throw the odd "I know what you mean" into technical discussions, you can bore your wife senseless with how clever you are, but mostly you will just enjoy the immense satisfaction of cruising down the road hypnotised by the wonderful sound of the engine you built. A picture in your mind of a wheel barrow full of bits and pieces all brought together and transformed into the living, breathing beast that is now spiriting you down the road. No feeling like it, a feeling no cheque book builder ever gets to experience.

Well done. :drinks:

Now all that's left to do is ask the forum for suggestions on what type of oil you should use and recommendations for running in procedure. :bomb:

Noel

Quote from: ribbert on August 23, 2016, 07:24:09 AM

Now all that's left to do is ask the forum for suggestions on what type of oil you should use and recommendations for running in procedure. :bomb:

Noel

Good idea, and while I'm at it I'll also ask about tyres......... :wacko2:

Good work Troy, nice to see it emerge from its cocoon.............

I invested in a ring compressor kit to carry out this job soon. Its one I've done many times on twins, once on a triple and once on my Gt750 kwak but advancing years erase the pain and dificulty encountered (although the triple was easy enough with a 120 degree crank throw.)

Still awaiting the supplier of the incorrect primary chain getting back to me and as I had to order some TZ parts from Japan I just added the chain to the order. I use JP-Parts who are highly recomended and specialise in OEM parts direct to Oz. Much cheaper than sourcing them here and you usually have them within 7-10 days if they are in stock. Shipping costs are good too.

jools

Thanks Jools, although I think your beast will look a fair bit neater than mine. I have a case of the 'impatients' now I've done these tricky bits.

Once I sort out the leaking fuel issue (Daddy & hubby time last night so no further work accomplished) I'm going to throw everything back on and run her in.

I'm also watching the calendar as I want her ready for the shed day down at Pete & Alfs.

Troy

Seems like a ton of work when you are picking away at it but is pretty satisfying knowing you have been through everything.  Congrats...Jeff

thanks Jeff,
I was too intimidated by the bottom end and carbs, so that's been left alone... :bomb:
Troy

Finally made it back into the shed this arvo.

A strong petrol pong greeted me. I assumed it was from all the petrol spewing out when I flashed her up for the first time Monday night, but nope, the tank petcock has developed a leak. A nice puddle of petrol on the bench proved it.

I'm still suspicious of the main hose as well.

Luckily Yummy is an 86 so the tank from Effie (84 1100) slipped on and allowed me to flash up Yummy. More leaking petrol. I ran her for about a minute and she started to smoke up from the leaking petrol.

It doesn't seem to be from the carbs (they all received a nice tap on the float bowls JIC). I believe it is the main line from the tank. I've already snipped of the split and perished end, but I noticed there is more perished rubber.

So what is the solution to the petcock? Is there a rebuild kit for them?

I may have a local source for the main line, but if that doesn't pan out, how hard is it to replace the main fuel lines? I have been in touch with Randy but he would need to order in.

This is somewhat frustrating as I had hoped I was in pure assembly mode  :ireful:

before I parked my '86 I had good luck with 3/8" automotive fuel line. The OEM hose clamps will not fit, plan on new clamps. The UNI pods allow more room for routing options and the thicker wall hose.

The answer to your petcock problems is right here


86-88 Yamaha Fuel Tank Petcock (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A1TX-24500-02)

Already safety wired to prevent the elbow from falling out and starting a fire.

Robert

Quote from: racerrad8 on August 24, 2016, 11:54:20 AM
The answer to your petcock problems is right here


86-88 Yamaha Fuel Tank Petcock (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A1TX-24500-02)

Already safety wired to prevent the elbow from falling out and starting a fire.
Robert

The 84-85 petcock also fits but you loose the reserve function of the 86-87. I did this for my '86 as I really don't use or need the reserve function, it became the switch for my heated grips.. You still get the vacuum function and you gain the function to prime the carbs without cranking the engine, not that I find much use for it. 

Quote from: Troyskie on August 23, 2016, 04:40:20 PM
Thanks Jools, although I think your beast will look a fair bit neater than mine. I have a case of the 'impatients' now I've done these tricky bits.

Once I sort out the leaking fuel issue (Daddy & hubby time last night so no further work accomplished) I'm going to throw everything back on and run her in.

I'm also watching the calendar as I want her ready for the shed day down at Pete & Alfs.

Troy

I'm not so sure Troy,

I had in mind to originally have all the paintwotk redone (frame, tank panels etc) but now with so much on and to meet Pete & Alfs shed day that will have to be next winters project or at least post Christmas.
You sure its not the carbs ? The float valves are easy to change when the carb bank is off. Just turn them upside down and remove each float bowl. You can clean the crap out of there while you are at it and set the float heights if you are feeling brave !

Thanks Mark, I'll check out the local auto shop today and see what they have.

Ok Randy, looks like new petcock it is.

Jools, I probably should have done that from the outset, and it looks like I will now. I will definitely try and at least paint the engine as it is in a good state to take some new black.

You know, whilst I'm in there I may as well..... :wacko2:

Although I now have a simple method to get that c@#t of an airbox in, I think I'm going to go the pod path.

That will also mean a filter on the gearbox breather as well I suppose. I've a number of filters I can put on, any specific suggestions? I have a spare from a compressor to remove moisture that looks a nice fit.

That will also raise the issue of jets....I'm now 1219 with 10.25:1 compression.

Carbs are a complete mystery to me. I've never done more than remove a float bowl (literally just one, once, to see what was in there) and that was on this machine. Clean as a whistle.

If I'm going to do the job right, and learn from the experience, I assume I'll also need a complete carburettor rebuild kit with the jets. From what I've read, that would be all the rubber bits, new emulsion tubes, needle, seat, gaskets, plus more bits I'm sure I will have never heard of, let alone understand  :sarcastic:

I'll do some checking and come back with what I think the parts list will be.

With the inside of your float bowl being clean as a whistle is it possible that the screws on that bowl weren't re tightened? Another possibility might be a stuck float from the unfortunate fall from the bike lift.  The jets will need to be changed, Randy or Robert will give you good recommendations for engine, altitude and riding style and have them in stock. 

Aaah, the hoist stunt  :wacko2:!

I think that's going to be my version of Pats cat story  :sarcastic:. At least the roo was saved from being eaten by the neighbours dog.

I've just found some 3/8ths line and a larger dia to go over it for the bends to stop any kinks.

Before I get too excited and order a full cart, I'm going to put this replacement line on, feed some fuel in from a handy reservoir, and check for more leaks.

Finding a handy reservoir was not easy.

An old Murray ride-on mower donated it's fuel tank.

On goes the tank to perished main line, no leaks. It was just the very end of the line is still split, but this now makes it too short to reliably put on, so on goes the new hose (well shortly).

Just to be sure I fired Yummy up  :yahoo: :i_am_so_happy: , I bounced back to the house like a kid with a mega bag of lollies. Man she ran smoooooooooth, barely any choke to start & then only one click of it, and only for about 10 seconds. Me so happy.

Now I have the list of parts I need and will start filling my cart shortly.

Replacement items:
86 Petcock.
PODs.
New jets for the 10.25:1 compression and 1219cc bits. I think I'll be going 117.5 main, #40 pilots (thanks Pete).
Filter for the crankcase.

Here's a pic of Yummy with the temporary transplant till the new petcock arrives....

Ooh, just realised, boasted about painting the engine......hmmmm,....we'll see. :sarcastic:

Carburetors, man, That's what life about.  (Name that movie)?

There are some pretty good tutorials in the files section.  In terms of new parts, inspect carefully and is the bike is not too high of mileage most everything should be ok.  New parts cannot hurt, but keep in mind that different brands of jets and needles (ie Mikuni vs aftermarket) cannot be mixed.  RPM is the goto on these.

Jeff

Quote from: Troyskie on August 24, 2016, 06:32:38 PM
Aaah, the hoist stunt  :wacko2:!

I think that's going to be my version of Pats cat story  :sarcastic:. At least the roo was saved from being eaten by the neighbours dog.

The roo wasn't spooked my a misguided 0.303" round per chance.............. :sarcastic:

Thanks for the starting jetting advice. I'll be running the pods and the 1219cc enlargement with a full delkevic system

He he he, couldn't name the movie, I had to look it up  :crazy:

I'm doing the cart thing with Randy shortly, but suspect I'll get all excited and put her back together and gooooo.

I'll do the jets down a Pete & Alfs shed day for all to see how the job is done (cause I have noooo idea).

A little update on the f%&$@ng airbox.

One of the nutserts in the side of the box is now spinning free, and I noticed some damage from PO's on the intake side of the filter so I can legitimately chuck it!  :yahoo:. (Yes I could repair it, but no, I won't  :nea:).

The roo wasn't spooked by a misguided 0.303" round per chance.............. :sarcastic:

Nope, stupid things aren't bothered by gunfire. Down at the range we often have them between the mound and butts. Club rule, no killing the aussie icons on the range grounds. Plus local law, no hunting east of the highway.
I couldn't pull the trigger on one anyway. I'm not going to eat it. I think the only way that would happen is if there was an alien invasion or zombie apocalypse.
I have however put a few down for the local RSPCA after they've been cleaned up by a car or truck (or bike).
My style is to put kill holes in paper & lock the bang sticks away (after a good clean).

Quote from: Troyskie on August 24, 2016, 05:13:39 PM

Carbs are a complete mystery to me. I've never done more than remove a float bowl.......

Well you were half way there then. As Jeff said, there are good tutorials on the forum. FJ carbs are down the lawn mower end for complexity, simple, and not many parts. Once you've seen one in bits you will have no hesitation ripping into them next time.
If the Bermagui weekend wasn't soon I'd suggest you have a crack at them, child's play after what you've just done.

My only advice for carby work is to have really good tips on your screwdrivers (new or as new) and use the biggest one you can to remove the jets, press down hard and don't let it slip. The jets are brass, the slots shallow and they chew up easily.

Noel

Thanks Noel,
The parts I've ordered are on the way so I'm holding off further assembly till the come and I can do a final leak check with the new petcock installed.

Here's a question that I hoped would resolve itself during re-assembly.

Very early on, when initially pulling the bike apart I found a small screw sitting beside the front wheel on the RHS of the bike. At the time I thought it might have come out of the throttle assembly/switch block on the handlebar.

When I put this back together I expected it to not work properly, but everything is fine.

Anyone know where this screw goes?

Mystery item, not out of the lawn mower is ????

It resembles something that should be stopping something leaking where it shouldn't  :good2:

i hope that helps !!

Primary chain arrived yesterday so we can all guess what's happening this weekend.
(mad rush to renew passport today as we have an Engineers conference in Beijing in October
and I just discovered I only have 4 months left on my passport till expiry  :dash2:)

Noel:
your reference to "Bermagui" and "Soon' worries me................

The screw sort of looks like the ones that hold the choke plunger rod in place.

Mark

I know the feeling Jools!

Yet again I'll be out of the country (next week) when the parts arrive, so re-assembly and test ride is delayed, again! :ireful:

Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 31, 2016, 05:33:02 PM
The screw sort of looks like the ones that hold the choke plunger rod in place.

Mark

Hmm, perhaps a bit big, but I'll check it out.
Thanks Mark

That screw looks similar to the index screw for the forks, but more like it came off the carbs. Took me about 60 seconds to find it. It secures the end of the choke rod.

Quote from: ribbert on August 26, 2016, 10:17:00 AM

Quote from: Troyskie on August 24, 2016, 05:13:39 PM

Carbs are a complete mystery to me. I've never done more than remove a float bowl.......

Well you were half way there then. As Jeff said, there are good tutorials on the forum. FJ carbs are down the lawn mower end for complexity, simple, and not many parts. Once you've seen one in bits you will have no hesitation ripping into them next time.
If the Bermagui weekend wasn't soon I'd suggest you have a crack at them, child's play after what you've just done.

My only advice for carby work is to have really good tips on your screwdrivers (new or as new) and use the biggest one you can to remove the jets, press down hard and don't let it slip. The jets are brass, the slots shallow and they chew up easily.

Noel

Also - first time around, only take ONE apart at a time - that way you have plenty of examples to look at to see how to put it back together!

Quote from: FJmonkey on August 31, 2016, 06:33:00 PM
That screw looks similar to the index screw for the forks, but more like it came off the carbs. Took me about 60 seconds to find it. It secures the end of the choke rod.

Excellent Mark! Thanks mate. :good:
I take it this is onto the carbie end, not at the fairing end?
Troyskie

Quote from: fj1289 on August 31, 2016, 06:58:16 PM
Also - first time around, only take ONE apart at a time - that way you have plenty of examples to look at to see how to put it back together!

Sage advice mate. I'll follow that and the forum notes.
Troyskie

Quote from: Troyskie on August 31, 2016, 11:46:45 PM

Quote from: FJmonkey on August 31, 2016, 06:33:00 PM
That screw looks similar to the index screw for the forks, but more like it came off the carbs. Took me about 60 seconds to find it. It secures the end of the choke rod.

Excellent Mark! Thanks mate. :good:
I take it this is onto the carbie end, not at the fairing end?
Troyskie

It came out of the bag marked #1, so carb #1.

Sweet! I also just realised you said 'came off the carbs',  :blush:

Quote from: Troyskie on August 31, 2016, 05:04:32 PM

.....I found a small screw sitting beside the front wheel on the RHS of the bike.

Troy, you got lucky.

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8464/29094838740_ec9f9fbb4f_z.jpg)

This is an accurate representation of what usually happens.

Noel

I think that pie chart is missing a thin slice. It rolls to the most inaccessible location. However, the chart is quite accurate.

Quote from: ribbert on September 01, 2016, 08:04:42 AM

Quote from: Troyskie on August 31, 2016, 05:04:32 PM

.....I found a small screw sitting beside the front wheel on the RHS of the bike.

Troy, you got lucky.

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8464/29094838740_ec9f9fbb4f_z.jpg)

This is an accurate representation of what usually happens.

Noel

:rofl2:

Well Mark, you were spot on with what it was and where it goes. :good:

I had a few moments of confusion as there is a screw in place.

My guess of what has happened is the screw came out during some PO maintenance. Now we reference the pie chart from Noel. It teleported away from the PO onto my bike hoist, probably a decade into the future. The poor bugger put another screw into the position. Not a neat job, but functional. The screw is now tagged and ready to sit in the cupboard for the next 30 years. I assume it has been rattling round the bike till I stripped her down for the open heart.

So some progress last night. The throttle is now good and seems to be working as it should, choke too.

The rear shock is back in and ready for some of the rear-end accessory plastic bits.

I'm really impressed with how easy it is to remove and re-install the rear shock. Nice work Yamaha.

Hopefully this weekend I'll get some more done. I'll do some progress shots for proof.

Yummy is sleeping, having a nice dream of a new petcock.....(http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action-gallery;sa=view;id=10177)

READY!!

Just wish I didn't have to go away for work for a week when the last, final, completing parts are due tomorrow!!!!!!!!!! :ireful:

Troy,

you will be back before you know it.............The way my progress is going I should have the engine back in next weekend  :i_am_so_happy:

True Jools.

I did get a case of the impatients and threw the 1100 tank on to check for leaks. All good, so I threw on the side covers, and seat, grabbed the family and said 'watch this!'

Just need the petcock and a new rear disc for the FZR wheel and I am ready to roll.

Almost done!!!

Yummy is back together, new petcock, pods, rear disc, pads.

It only took half an hour to put it all together.

She flashed up beautifully, hardly any choke.

She just needs one more part, a new rear tyre for the blue slip.

One niggly little thing that popped up, the front RH indicator is on full time. It also comes on when the steering lock is set to 'park' when the tail light comes on. It flashes ok, but stays on when the ignition (headlight is hard wired) is switched on. Should I pull the fairing off and look for crossed wires? I know the one of the PO's had spent some time fooling with the wiring & didn't want to open that can-o-wrigglies just yet. I didn't do much to the wiring, just used some contact cleaner on the connections and plugged everything back as it was (I think).

Overall, WOW, at the tail end of the job, everything now seems like it was soooo easy, but...... I'd never done a clutch before, I'd never pulled a head and barrels down before. I'd never installed rings, cams, all the bloody gaskets, pistons, machined rear-wheels, swapped front-ends, or dropped a bike off a F-ing hoist for that matter.

I'm pretty certain the most I'd ever really done was pop the fairing, change the oil, possibly a chain or two. I don't even wash them much.

NOW? I'm ready for the hard bits, carbies, gearbox and electrics.

Yummy is now a 1219 with 91 front end, 17" front & back, option 1 modded clutch, rattle free fairing, and repaired fuel lines.

Once I find out what the issue is with the indicator I'll get her registered ready for Pete's in November (or put the 1100 side covers and number plate on  :biggrin:).

Went for a test ride, rear shock is waaaaaaaaay out of adjustment, fixed. Rear brake needs bleeding. Front RH indicator cross wiring needs investigation. All other items AWESOME!!!!!!

LONG LIVE THE MIGHTY FJ!!!!!!!!! :yahoo: :yahoo: :drinks: :drinks:

That's excellent news Troy, you may well have missed your true calling. Any more success and we'll have to get you a bigger helmet.  :biggrin:

As I've always said, the feeling of doing all that yourself is without equal and will make that bike the sweetest ride you ever had.

Roll on Bermagui.

Noel

Thanks Noel,

I did mean to say now at the end of the job it seemed easy, but the reality was everything was assembled wrong at least twice, sometimes three times.  :wacko3:

The amazing part is the bike started at all! Plus the rear wheel worked perfectly, and the clutch is perfect as well! I'm not known amongst my friends as the most 'handy' person (despite a shed full of tools).

The one reason why someone with my Neanderthal tool skills was able to get this project this far is this forum. Thanks for all the help and advice and support fellas, especially Pete.  :hi:

Troy
You may find this light problem is linked to it being a North American model.
My father in law has a US import kwaka Spectre 1100 in NZ which from memory has the indicators on all the time turning the L or R side off to flash. 
I think you need to study the circuit diagrams especially if someone has already been messing with it. You

For the US models, the 1989 and later models have the front turn signals lit when the ignition switch is in the on position. According to the 1986/1987 United States model wiring diagram, the front turn signals should use a single filament bulb and is only used as a flasher.

If the bulb is on all the time, you have a short somewhere in the circuit.


Fred

Troy by the sound of it you have done a marvelous job and taking us along for the ride also, I will miss your write-ups.
There is nothing better than breathing life into project like that and You did it all by yourself with guidance from Pete, but it was all You, very satisfying.

When I'd buy wrecks to fix and ride I had a mate just like Pete, he'd say wait until I'm there before you start pulling it apart but by the time he got there it was in bits.

When is your next project starting?, I can't wait for that ride

Cheers Alan

Woo hoo!!! :dance2:

Jools & Fred, you were both right. All the wiring diagrammes I can find are for Aussie and UK models, not US.

I had a look through the files section and couldn't find a diagramme for the US models. I think I was after a one for California as it had the charcoal cannisters removed by a PO. I did see some wiring diagrammes on the forum for US models but cannot find them.

Long story short, all the diagrammes show two wires into the indicators. Mine had three. The colour coding for two of the wires was correct (phew!).

The third wire is a mystery & I'm not The Famous 5, I can't solve mysteries much beyond a crossword. It was coloured blue with a red stripe.

I checked the rear indicators and they are wired as per the diagrammes I have, so, after thinking about it....snip! On with the ignition, .... no more lit RH globe, but head light on as normal......flick the RH indicator switch.....WOO HOOOOOOOOO, it works.  :drinks: :drinks:
My daughter & I literally skipped back to the house to announce the good news.

PHEW!!!!!!!! At least on the snip I decided to cut the wire a fair way away from the connector so I could at least re-join if I had to, but WOO HOO!

I now believe all my contact cleaning may have uncovered an intentional blocking of the mystery wire by a PO to get rid of the front indicators being permanently on. It is possible I missed the LHS.

I am now ready for the blue slip! All I need is to change the rear tyre and I am done, done done!!!!!

You know, the only thing I might want to do now is get an Aussie switch block from the wreckers with a headlight switch so the headlight doesn't come on every I turn on the ignition.

Al, thanks for the words mate. Rest assured I have no intention of remaining silent after this, I have PLENTY more to learn, plus mate, the Shire is a nice ride away and Bermagui is only a couple of months away!

I think the blue w red stripe wire is a marker light the bulb should be a dual element.

G'day Chris, spot on.

The bulbs in front are dual filament.

Essentially with the blue/red cable cut or disabled the second filament simply doesn't get used.

Bit of a drama with the rego.

For our US cousins, this will be gibberish. Just put this part down to bullshit bureaucracy Oz style.

Went to get the blue slip as NSW doesn't believe QLD.

NSW won't recognise a QLD import compliance plate. :dash2: Blue slip cannot be completed.

NSW needs the original import papers, which of course are probably with a PO or 2.

After over an hour on the phone to RMS I was no closer to getting the bike re-registered, despite it only recently falling out of registration from the QLD PO.  :mad:

After half an hour on hold to another govt department I discover an international line to ring. Call that and get straight through!!!!!

They ask for the VIN, and bingo, info still on the system.

Only a 10 day wait to get the letter and I can register  :dance2: :dash1: not sure if I should be happy or not.

Lesson to Aussie FJ riders. If your bike is imported make sure you have the import paperwork.

Quote from: Troyskie on September 20, 2016, 05:32:08 PM
not sure if I should be happy or not.

Yes be happy, be very very happy.  That took less time than on the phone with Bell whenever my internet goes down!  And you didn't have to swear at them... :blush:

And they wonder why we consider another country, not another State.  Different rules and regulations, al of which NSW doesn't recognize. Like Helmet laws. I can buy a helmed in QLD and fit a camera to it (all legal like) , then ride 5 minutes south and both the helmet and the camera attachment are illegal.  :diablo:

GRRRRR

Mark

Quote from: Urban_Legend on September 20, 2016, 07:59:05 PM
GRRRRR

Mark

I think I linked this before regarding Ozzie bureaucrats - but then again it lends itself to all of them everywhere - The B Ark (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSid-p0Xlk0).  Life imitating art from a demented genius.  Always makes me giggle.

Well RMS have gone all out to make this as painful as possible.

Despite having all the necessary paperwork and inspecting mechanic happy with the bike, they've now decided I need an engineers report!

It will be two weeks before the nearest 'engineer' is able to take the bike in, then he tells me it will be at least two weeks before he gets his report done. So I'm losing a month and at least $550 for no good reason.

:cray:

Quote from: Troyskie on September 24, 2016, 08:24:35 PM
Well RMS have gone all out to make this as painful as possible.

Despite having all the necessary paperwork and inspecting mechanic happy with the bike, they've now decided I need an engineers report!

It will be two weeks before the nearest 'engineer' is able to take the bike in, then he tells me it will be at least two weeks before he gets his report done. So I'm losing a month and at least $550 for no good reason.

:cray:

My second 1200 was imported through Queensland and I bought it with 6 months Qld rego. It was a 06/95 model and Compliance plate was dated 11/06. I bought it in 07. When the rego ran out I took it to my local blue slip inspector. No problem with the compliance plate that was fitted by the (Qld) importer. Blue slip issued and NSW rego done.  You could be lucky like me as I did not need any annual rego inspections until 2012 due to the compliance date (5 year new vehicle rule).

Hi Troy

Just a thought that I had read somewhere that if you were to apply for Historical Plate Rego
you did not need a blue slip as this would be done by registrar? (not the blue slip but the rego, if it passed their scrutiny)

I could very well be wrong :wacko3:

Cheers Alan

To get the historical plate you need to be a member of a registered club, like the Victorian Japanese Motorcycle club - VJMC, but one base in NSW. and then in it a log book system that allows 45 day of riding. It used to be to club events only but recently changed.

Mark

Quote from: Urban_Legend on September 25, 2016, 04:10:26 AM
To get the historical plate you need to be a member of a registered club, like the Victorian Japanese Motorcycle club - VJMC, but one base in NSW. and then in it a log book system that allows 45 day of riding. It used to be to club events only but recently changed.

Mark

To obtain a Historic registration in NSW you need to be a member of the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club. Its the same club in all states. In NSW you need only a pink slip (from and RMS inspector) or an inspection by an authorised club member. You can then obtain a historic plate issued by the RMS and log book (sheet actually) which allows you 60 days of use per year on top of any club. days. (BTW I am the VJMC registrar for NSW and handle registrations for NSW members who don't have a local club inspector).

Cool. Excellent news Krusty.  I may have some work for you. Even though I live in NSW I am a member of CCJMC (classic and Custom Japanese Motorcycle Club)  and was looking at putting 84 FJ until I had to use it as a daily rider. But soon I will have a second fj so club rego is still an option.

Quote from: krusty on September 25, 2016, 04:28:13 AM

Quote from: Urban_Legend on September 25, 2016, 04:10:26 AM
To get the historical plate you need to be a member of a registered club, like the Victorian Japanese Motorcycle club - VJMC, but one base in NSW. and then in it a log book system that allows 45 day of riding. It used to be to club events only but recently changed.

Mark

To obtain a Historic registration in NSW you need to be a member of the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club. Its the same club in all states. In NSW you need only a pink slip (from and RMS inspector) or an inspection by an authorised club member. You can then obtain a historic plate issued by the RMS and log book (sheet actually) which allows you 60 days of use per year on top of any club. days. (BTW I am the VJMC registrar for NSW and handle registrations for NSW members who don't have a local club inspector).

Forgot to mention - bike needs to be 30 years old in NSW by year of manufacture (not by actual day or month). Registration cost is $51 a year including greenslip (3rd party injury) insurance. First year of rego adds a one time plate fee of about $30.

I was going to suggest you talk to the PO in QLD to get it registered up there at your cost, then run it here for a year before transferring the rego over ?

RMS Bureaucratic Elitist Tossers who believe life in Australia would cease to exist without their incessant meddling................

Quote from: krusty on September 25, 2016, 04:28:13 AM

To obtain a Historic registration in NSW you need to be a member of the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club. Its the same club in all states. In NSW you need only a pink slip (from and RMS inspector) or an inspection by an authorised club member. You can then obtain a historic plate issued by the RMS and log book (sheet actually) which allows you 60 days of use per year on top of any club. days. (BTW I am the VJMC registrar for NSW and handle registrations for NSW members who don't have a local club inspector).
[/quote]
That could be an option mate. So if I join the VJMC how do I get it inspected?
Troyskie

Quote from: Troyskie on September 25, 2016, 05:54:12 PM

Quote from: krusty on September 25, 2016, 04:28:13 AM

To obtain a Historic registration in NSW you need to be a member of the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club. Its the same club in all states. In NSW you need only a pink slip (from and RMS inspector) or an inspection by an authorised club member. You can then obtain a historic plate issued by the RMS and log book (sheet actually) which allows you 60 days of use per year on top of any club. days. (BTW I am the VJMC registrar for NSW and handle registrations for NSW members who don't have a local club inspector).

That could be an option mate. So if I join the VJMC how do I get it inspected?
Troyskie
[/quote]

PM me email address and I'll send you the info. RMS policy, procedure etc. Got to vjmc.org.au for membership sign up which can be done online.

Change of plan.

I rang around today & found an engineer who was happy for me to ride the bike (all legally) to his place. He'll do the inspection and upload it to RMS and email me the cert to take back to the RMS for rego.

Fingers crossed it should all be sorted early next week (have to go to QLD for work, otherwise it would be done on Thursday).

Good luck Troy,

Just a thought

Can't you just swap plates from Effie to Yummy?
Then back again, same colour bike, same brand,
To the police number plate cameras they will be the same.

Just don't get pulled over.

Cheers Alan

I thought exactly that Al.

If I ran into too much more red tape I was going to use that option. :biggrin:

But the guy doing the report has a letter emailed to me (after checking with the blue slip mechanic that the bike was 'road worthy').

It contains a nice bit of legalese for us,
'The driver and/or the licensed certifier is authorised to drive the vehicle in accordance with Clause
76AF of the Road Transport (Vehicle Registration) Regulation 2007 to effect preparation and
assessment in securing a Compliance Certificate.
· Under the provisions of the Road Transport (Vehicle Registration) Regulations 2007 a person
may drive an unregistered vehicle for the purposes of securing a Compliance Certificate, and
· Does not commit an offence under clause 52 (Registrable vehicles to comply with vehicle
standards specified in Schedule 2), or clause 76AC (Modified Vehicles not to be used unless
certified) or the registration provisions (within the meaning of schedule 1) in respect of a vehicle
that it is being driven pursuant to clause 76AF;
(a) to a licensed certifier for the purpose of obtaining a Compliance Certificate by the most
direct and convenient route, or
(b) in the course of the inspection and assessment of the vehicle by a licensed certifier, or
(c) from any such inspection by the most direct and convenient route to the nearest place
where assessments can be carried out on the vehicle to enable it to meet the applicable
vehicle standards, but only if the driver of the vehicle has written notice from the licensed
certifier who inspected the vehicle and states that the vehicle does not pose an imminent
risk to road safety.'

Yes quite a bit of palava, but I now know it is a-ok to ride your 'ready to certify' bike without rego.

If you're like me and don't have a bike trailer or decent ramp to get it on a trailer this option is awesome!

Cutting loose on the interpretation, what if I'm travelling 1000k's to get it registered, tested, etc? No problem apparently.

Just need a weigh-bridge ticket on the way up tomorrow.

Just a quick update.

All is well, the bike is right.

I'm trying to show my family I have I patience by demonstrating there is no bureaucratic barrier that I can't beat.

Yummy will be on the road soon.....'section 61, ADR.....zzzzzzzz'

Getting closer!

Quote from: Troyskie on October 20, 2016, 03:40:01 PM
Getting closer!

They might do it as Christmas Present for you Mate!

Local bureaucrats are getting me in three ways right now. The bike, a DA for a new shed at work, and a parking fine they refuse to understand is not even my numberplate! :dash1:

Good friends, beers, my registered bike & some nice weather do help to perceive the above is mainly irritation.

Al, perhaps next week I'll have Yummy registered and can start the run-in for the engine. At least I can't be nabbed for 'illegal' modifications. Everything I've done on the bike is now signed off and 'engineered' (if you accept my novice spanner turning as enginnering  :sarcastic:).

I'm stepping up today. The weather is suited to indoors & I've bought a diode, and unwound some buggered stators to get some copper wire & am going to try and get the kids to build a crystal radio this morning.

Effie also needs an oil change and some fairing rattle removal.

Done! Yummy now has NSW rego  :drinks: :dance: :drinks: :rofl2: :drinks: :dance2: :drinks: :biggrin:

Let the Party begin!
Congratulations Troy, that would have been the hardest part of your journey.

Well done mate, what an episode  :yahoo:

I'm struggling to get my motor back together at the moment with a suspect wrist that I smacked hard at Eastern Creek a few weeks back, going down on some oil coming out of turn 2.
I thought it was healing ok as I had a fair amount of movement back, but racing in New Zealand last weekend was a struggle and now its flared up again, only about 50% strength so I'm gonna have to get an x ray just to be certain.
I was struggling to support the block trying to get the pistons in, only to find once I had that the wiseco base gasket didnt have the cut outs for the dowel oil seals so it has to all come off again  :dash2:
It will be touch and go to make it to Pete's.......................(A weekend trip to NZ for the inlaws 70th birthday next Saturday isnt going to help)

:bomb:

Bugger on the wrist mate. I was wondering why your project seemed to have stalled.

I have a spare FJ now.....you could try your luck with Effie the 11. Drive to my place, pick-up Effie & ride with me to Bermagui.

Or, trailer yours down for the crew to help finish if the wrist needs a rest from riding.....

If you trailer it, I reckon you could possibly persuade Tony (Roach) to keep you company. I believe he's waiting for the next box of Weetbix to find his license.....(jokes Tony  :sarcastic:)

Quote from: Sparky84 on October 26, 2016, 02:02:06 AM
Let the Party begin!
Congratulations Troy, that would have been the hardest part of your journey.

Mate, you couldn't be more right!

How are you shaping up for Bermagui? Probably pretty tough as we're now into silly season.

If you want I could probably meet up for a pie run to Robertson if the shed day is a no go for you.

Quote from: Troyskie on October 27, 2016, 06:40:32 PM

Quote from: Sparky84 on October 26, 2016, 02:02:06 AM
Let the Party begin!
Congratulations Troy, that would have been the hardest part of your journey.

Mate, you couldn't be more right!

How are you shaping up for Bermagui? Probably pretty tough as we're now into silly season.

If you want I could probably meet up for a pie run to Robertson if the shed day is a no go for you.

Not good for Bermagui Mate due to silly season started end of July when I broke 3 ribs,
I followed that up with heart attack and carked it mid August,
then heart procedure a couple of days ago and my chest still feels like an FJ with a 200kilo rider rode over my chest, (if I was an engine it'd feel like Jools has been trying to shove pistons in place with a bung wrist, side ways).
But I'm still Here.

Pie at Robertson sounds good but might have to wait until at least February.

Enjoy All your riding, be safe everyone, wish I was there.

Cheers Alan

Sorry to hear that Alan, best wishes for a full speedy recovery mate

For what its worth, I actually managed to get the cylinder and head on this weekend with some discomfort. :good2:

Al, that is a huge couple of months mate!

I'll look forward to Feb buddy.