Been out of bikes for a while.Recently picked up a reasonable 84 FJ1100. Old Habits die hard. I had to take the tank and side covers etc off.
When I said I been out for a while , there wasn't a lot of Fuel gauges around back then.
Figured it out, took the tank off and put it on the bench and noticed wires attached to it.
Fuel gauge sender. Cant figure out where they come from.
Where is the socket located to plug it in again?
Warrigal, welcome to the group.......where are you?
The connector is near the battery at the back of the tank.
Harvy
Newcastle NSW Australia
I found that plug, but it didnt seem to work.
Gauge did not lift off bottom.
On reading stuff in this forum it would seem they are not very responsive.
I have since filled the tank, so I will try trhat plug again.
Thanks for the confirmation.
Warrigal...... Neil is down there in Newcastle also........He is Kopfjaeger here.
You may have a crook gauge....... or ...... is the needle on the correct side of the stop post in the guage?
Harvy
Welcome to the house... :wacko3:
Good to see another Aussie on-board....
Rover
yeah gday fellow novacastrian....give us a bell i got me a multimeter and a manual :dash1: keen to have a look at an 1100 not much different i hear drop us a line
Solved Fuel Gauge problem. Checked everything was connected up.
Couldnt find anything wrong. Best way to solve a problem is to forget about it for a while so I went for a ride.
Found some nice windy road at the back of Tronter.
Bugger me dead, 20 minutes down the road I notice it was working.
Also noticed the speedo had stopped working.
Saturday tomorrow, Ill check to see if the speedo drive cable has come loose.
How do I get to the underside of the speedo?
Methinks FJ Instruments a little contrary.
Warrigal,
You can get to the connection of the speedo cable and the head without taking anything apart. You kneel on the ground on the left side of the front wheel and put your hand up into the fairing next to the fork leg. Continue following the cable up and you'll run into the speedo head. If its not connected, you'll be able to see that from below. Getting it back into the socket and getting the ferrule back onto the speedo head can be a bit touchy, but it can be done. BTW If the speedo cable inner is broken, just buy a new one from a dealer - they aren't even very expensive amazingly.
Cheers,
Arnie
Unfortunately Ive got Blacksmiths Hands, Fat and Wide but not very long.
Could feel a long way up though. Cable is attached to speedo Wont pull out but is loose.Maybe not loose enough to stop it working.
I did find some Instrument globes floating around though.
I need to get the fairing off.
Undid the four big Black obvious screws and found the two behind the rubber trim on the sides.
Some previous nasty has tried to force a 1/4 Whitty in to a 6mm threaded hole under the rubber trim. Cracked the fairing.
I got all these undone and found the slide on pins.
I read somewhere in this forum that Clark Rubber has the rubber bungs. I might have to pay them a visit
The fairing is still very firmly attached around the front near the headlight.
What is the go There?
You've found all 6 bolts. You should be good to go. The headlight comes off with the fairing. Once you get it slid forward some, you'll see the two connectors that will need to be undone. It's a tight fit, could be stuck on the wiring harness. Wiggle it around. Unscrew the speedo cable at the drive unit and pull it off with the fairing.
DavidR.
You will also want to take off the air scoops (two plastic pins on each side). My adjusting knob for the headlight seems to want to hang up and hold the fairing on as well. It can also be a hindrance when putting it back on.
Thanks for the help, I finally got the fairing off.
The secret was getting the air scoops off.
The floating Instrument light is the parking globe in the bottom of the light.
The negative wire is torn out of the fitting. Cant repair, dont know where i would get a new one.
It would appear that some one has had difficulty with getting the fairing off before.
Some butchery under there.
I will leave it off for a few days while I look for some mounting rubbers etc.
Does anyone know the exact amount of Fork Oil required in each leg.
I assume about 15W for my bulky body.
Also the items on the front of the forks connected to the Front Brakes by Hydraulic Hose, are these some sort of anti dive system?
Can I take them off and service them and then put them back on without causing dramas with the fork Internals.
At this stage I don't want to take the forks out.
I dont think they are working as one of the adjuster knobs screws right out and the other I cant move.
Any Tricks?
Warrigal, I don't have an early model with the anti-dive myself.........but the general consensus seems to be that if it works, leave it be.....if it doesn't, toss the anti-dive units.
There are a couple of methods to do this:
When you remove the units there are 2 passageways in each unit (fluid in and fluid out obviously).........have a block off plate made with a passageway machined to join these existing passageways.
OR
Change the fork lowers to '88+ (from memory) lower legs.........with this method, you also have the chance to update the front wheel to a 17" and install decent pre 2003 R1 style front anchors.
With both methods, the lower lines to the anti-dive units are tossed, and you can also remove the brake line splitter on the lower triple-tree and run individual lines to each caliper, using the double banjo bolt from the splitter at the master cylinder....... and replace the OEM hydraulic lines with braided SS lines.
HTH
Harvy
Harvy
newbie drop us a pm if you want, i have the manual here for the fj on puter, also have some tools and stuff if you really want to get into it,just sing out when your ready, cos im rebuilding a gpz1000rx and servicing a pain in the arse gpz 500s.... but they are different stories....
Kopfjaeger, thanks for the offer, had a little change in time available and Fj will have to be put aside for a couple of weeks.
Playtime is over. Thanks for the help from everyone, Ill be back