Picked up extremely clean 93 FJ that has most likely sat to long with old gas. Will start and stay running with choke on only....Even with choke on and idling the idle will rev up and down on its own. Even riding it choke must be pulled out Once you get up to 20mph I can turn choke off and it rides OK but once the RPM's are low the bike will die.. What do you guys think of Seafoam? If I pull the tank, drain gas put some Seafoam in there and let it sit for 24 hours or longer.. Will the stuff really clean out the plugged Idle jets? it has 29k on the clock
Quote from: rick9141965 on November 16, 2015, 08:18:56 AM
Picked up extremely clean 93 FJ that has most likely sat to long with old gas. What do you guys think of Seafoam? If I pull the tank, drain gas put some Seafoam in there and let it sit for 24 hours or longer.. Will the stuff really clean out the plugged Idle jets?
Probably not. You'll need to got through the FJ Ownership Rite of Passage...
Removal of the carbs, disassembly of them, thoroughly clean them, renew what is necessary in them, set the fuel level in their float bowls, bench synch them, have fun {sarcasm added} reinstalling them back on the bike, set your valve clearances, warm the bike up, adjust the air screws, and then final synch the carbs with a Morgan Carbtune or similar tool.
After you do the above, you are good to go for a long time.
I agree.. No miracle in a bottle!! I have a Motorcycle mechanic that quoted me $250 USD for labor plus part$ to clean them and all the other necessary syncing. Had to spend it but prob cost me more if I attempt that myself!
Quote from: rick9141965 on November 16, 2015, 08:48:59 AM
I agree.. No miracle in a bottle!! I have a Motorcycle mechanic that quoted me $250 USD for labor plus part$ to clean them and all the other necessary syncing. Had to spend it but prob cost me more if I attempt that myself!
Look into sending to RPM... they'll rebuild, bench synch, and return to you ready to bolt on and ride (by most reports). You'll still need to check and probably adjust valve clearances, but there is no better option for your carbs.
Frank
Quote from: Flynt on November 16, 2015, 08:55:13 AM
Quote from: rick9141965 on November 16, 2015, 08:48:59 AM
I agree.. No miracle in a bottle!! I have a Motorcycle mechanic that quoted me $250 USD for labor plus part$ to clean them and all the other necessary syncing. Had to spend it but prob cost me more if I attempt that myself!
Look into sending to RPM... they'll rebuild, bench synch, and return to you ready to bolt on and ride (by most reports). You'll still need to check and probably adjust valve clearances, but there is no better option for your carbs.
Frank
Just an FYI...The current labor charge for RPM carb rebuilding is $160.00. The only mandatory parts required for the rebuild is the S/S screw & o-ring kit (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit) as the carbs are completely broken down and ultrasonic cleaned. If other additional parts or jetting is required that is an additional cost.
We can usually turn the carbs around in two days or less.
When you get them back, you need to drain the tank, replace the fuel filter, flush the fuel pump with new fuel, install the carbs and head off for a ride. They are ready to go when you get them back.
Let us know if we can be of assistance.
Randy - RPM
randy@rpmracingca.com
209-844-9831
Quote from: Flynt on November 16, 2015, 08:55:13 AM
Look into sending to RPM... they'll rebuild, bench synch, and return to you ready to bolt on and ride (by most reports). You'll still need to check and probably adjust valve clearances, but there is no better option for your carbs.
Frank
+1 :good2:
If Randy can't fix 'em, they're total junk... and his prices are quite reasonable, IMO.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=10053.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=10053.0)
Quote from: racerrad8 on November 16, 2015, 12:28:18 PM
Just an FYI...The current labor charge for RPM carb rebuilding is $160.00. The only mandatory parts required for the rebuild is the S/S screw & o-ring kit (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit) as the carbs are completely broken down and ultrasonic cleaned. If other additional parts or jetting is required that is an additional cost.
We can usually turn the carbs around in two days or less.
When you get them back, you need to drain the tank, replace the fuel filter, flush the fuel pump with new fuel, install the carbs and head off for a ride. They are ready to go when you get them back.
Let us know if we can be of assistance.
Randy - RPM
randy@rpmracingca.com
209-844-9831
Still one Hell of a deal!
If I pull the carbs off and take the bowls off and just clean the jets and what ever else is in there will I have to sync the carbs when I put it back on or will it fire up like prior to pulling carbs?
Quote from: rick9141965 on November 18, 2015, 06:06:42 AM
If I pull the carbs off and take the bowls off and just clean the jets and what ever else is in there will I have to sync the carbs when I put it back on or will it fire up like prior to pulling carbs?
You don't have to synch the carbs, but you're shortchanging yourself if you don't. Synching will smooth the idle, and help with just-off idle throttle response.
If your bike sat for a while, the passageways in the carb bodies that carry the fuel to various circuits could be plugged or restricted too, so "just" cleaning the jets will net you little return on your efforts.
Use the Google search engine to find good carb cleaning and rebuild posts, that have pics and good descriptions. Make sure to include the word FJowners.com in the search too. There's good info to be found that way for not only carb problems, but many other common FJ maladies that have been covered in detail over the years.
I think the Yamaha service manual spec's to sync the carbs annually. Probably over kill but it indicates how important they think it is to a good running FJ.
IMO anyone that owns an FJ should have a sync tool. You can make one for less than 10-20.00 that works as good as any on the market. It is super easy to do. On any multiple cylinder motorcycle you will be glad to have a sync tool around.
George
is there any easy way to drain the gas from the carburetor bowls? Besides starting it?
Open the drain screws on the bottom of bowls.
Have you read the carb Files?
Can u get to the drain screws easily while carbs are still mounted on the bike?
Yes, the bowls can be drained in place. Use the biggest flat head screw driver that will fit and use plenty of pressure to keep it from messing up the head... My '86 is bone dry and waiting a rebuild.
Quote from: rick9141965 on November 18, 2015, 09:33:40 PM
Can u get to the drain screws easily while carbs are still mounted on the bike?
Yes, If the bowls were installed correctly.
Even still if you want, you can remove the carbs, then drain the gas. It's no big deal to remove the carbs with fuel in the bowls.
As everyone says: Seafoam won't fix your carbs, but, as someone with a bit o'history with my carbs, Seafoam does prevent problems. Been using it for years now, and my carbs have been fine (and that's with long winter storage).
rick9141965,
Yeah, Seafoam! Unless you are swimming in cash and plan to sync the carbs after a refurb, I'd try the Seafoam first. Drain any old gas to start, and get a tank of top-tier gas. Use non-ethanol gas, if possible here. Drain a gallon of gas from the tank, add half a can of Seafoam to the drained gas and shake the container to mix. Pour the gas rapidly back into the tank. Ride enough to get the bike fully warmed up, once a day for a few days. Repeat, if you wish. This stuff is about magic in results, but it is not instantaneous.
If you are not happy in a week, then you can dig out the wallet and the tools.
Cheers,
Red
Quote from: red on November 30, 2015, 01:21:42 PM
....If you are not happy in a week, then you can dig out the wallet and the tools.
Just your tools.
Other than a can of carb cleaner and some fresh O rings for your float needle seats, it costs nothing to clear those jets and idle circuits.
Sorry. Seafoam is a high grade kerosene. It stays volatile and doesn't bind to water like the alcohol in today's crap gasoline does. Not a magical cure-all.
100% gasoline and regular running of the engine. Don't let the lacquer form. (In my case there were 6' piles of snow around the shed.) Prompted me to keep the batteries inside, recharge 'em regularly, carry out to the bikes once a month or so.
Getting the carb rack off smaller bikes (XJ's) is a nightmare. Just picked up my first FJ, but can see that getting the fairing/ tank off will be an equal nightmare. That being said, once decent screws are installed, doing the carbs (once a year) is straightforward and essential. An excuse to use the rack I built to wet float, and the carbtune/carbpro to tweak the carbs. (Plus I work, am a grad student, and have too many XS/XJ's plus the new FJ).
As an FJ newbie, I look forward to spending almost as much time learning as I do riding.
And thanks to Rick, for graciously selling me this machine.