Hi,, can anyone please tell me if a 1994 YZF600R Rear Wheel fit on to the Rear of my 1994 FJ1200 ,
If the wheel will fit onto my FJ1200 ..what other parts are needed to complete the swap.
Has anyone done the YZF600R upgrade and what's involved in the swap over .Any tricks or things to look out for.
I can get a good 1994 YZF600F Rear Wheel, including the Brake Disc ,the Drive plate and Sprocket and its also fitted with a 80% tread tire,
Any advise would be great ,,thank you ,, regards Phil from Aussie (wainot)
Phil,
T Australian 94 Yzf wheel is the same as the US 95-07 wheel. The link in the first post of this thread has the instructions for the mod.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1567.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1567.0)
OK THANKS for the info and the Link ,
Think I might give it a go .
The only thing that I do not really understand.
Is do I have to get a YZF600R Rear Calliper hanger and get it machined.
OR
do I just machine my existing FJ1200 Rear Calliper Holder down .
and
do I use my existing FJ1200 Standard Rear Calliper as it is ,
thanks again for the info ,,regards Phil
You will need to use the YZF mounting bracket as the YZF wheel has a different rotor and spacing. Not sure on the caliper. Yamaha has a habit of using the same real caliper across a wide range of bikes and it might bolt right up????
Hopefully someone here can confirm.
Quote from: the fan on October 10, 2015, 09:15:08 AM
You will need to use the YZF mounting bracket as the YZF wheel has a different rotor and spacing. Not sure on the caliper. Yamaha has a habit of using the same real caliper across a wide range of bikes and it might bolt right up????
Hopefully someone here can confirm.
Either caliper will work.
This is a great mod and I highly recommend it.
So the Standard 40 Tooth FJ1200 Rear Sprocket fits straight onto the YZF600R Sprocket carrier ,,Is that correct ,,
thank you
I did theYZF600R conversion back in 2006 following Amy's instructions and have been very happy with it. Lately though my only concern is that 170 tires for the 5in rim are getting harder to find.
Yes either caliper will work, but the FJ caliper is a little wider inside than the YZF caliper. With the FJ caliper the pistons have to push out further to engage the pads and I am not sure if they will go out too far. FJ vented rotors are wider than the drilled YZF rotor. Might be different pistons in the two? Not sure. I would go with a YZF caliper if you can.
HTH's
Cheers...Jake
Quote from: jvb_ca on October 11, 2015, 08:31:50 AM
Yes either caliper will work, but the FJ caliper is a little wider inside than the YZF caliper. With the FJ caliper the pistons have to push out further to engage the pads and I am not sure if they will go out too far. FJ vented rotors are wider than the drilled YZF rotor. Might be different pistons in the two? Not sure.
HTH's
Cheers...Jake
This is true, however, using the FJ caliper has not proved to be a problem for me, and I've completely worn out two sets of pads since doing the YZF wheel swap.
Quote from: wainot on October 11, 2015, 04:18:15 AM
So the Standard 40 Tooth FJ1200 Rear Sprocket fits straight onto the YZF600R Sprocket carrier ,,Is that correct ,,
thank you
Yes, this is correct.
I pulled this question out of the Files section and placed it here. Please don't post questions in the Files section.
Quote from: not a lib on October 11, 2015, 11:56:06 AM
This is true, however, using the FJ caliper has not proved to be a problem for me, and I've completely worn out two sets of pads since doing the YZF wheel swap.
Ahh good to know. I still have my original FJ caliper around, somewhere I think, that I can use if need be.
Thanks....
Cheers..Jake
Hello
Can you explain to me what does it mean:
"The sprocket carrier needs 3mm milled off where the sprocket touches it. You'll need a torch to get the studs out of it, as they have permanent threadlocker on them."
French translator is'nt clear for this point.Sorry.
Thanks
Bruno
What you are trying to do is to move the chain sprocket inward to keep the chain aligned.
The sprocket carrier is also known as the Cush drive hub. This is the hub that holds the sprocket. Inside this hub are rubber pieces that cushions the driveline, preventing driveline lash.
1) Remove the nuts that hold the sprocket on the hub, then remove the sprocket. Now you can pull this hub off the wheel. It pulls straight out.
2) Next you have to remove the sprocket studs that are threaded in to the hub. You can't properly mill the hub with the studs in the way.
This will take some heat on the studs and hub to release the thread locker glue that is used on the threads of the studs. You have to first separate the hub from the wheel before you do this, or when you put the torch to the studs, you will melt the rubber cush inserts.
3) Now that the sprocket studs are removed from the hub, you have to mill 3mm off the sprocket surface of the hub. The surface is where the sprocket contacts the hub.
The sprocket hub pictured below is not the YZF hub but the same thing had to be done to this hub. See the shiny area where the sprocket contacts the hub? That's where the 3mm was removed:
(http://www.fjmods.co.uk/Pictures/MarcRittner/2CushDriveTH.jpg)
When done, this effectively moves the sprocket 3mm inward towards the middle of the rim, keeping the chain in proper alignment when you install the YZF rim.
Hope this helps. Pat
Thanks Pat.
Your explanations are very clear I'm sure now !
I had a doubt
Bruno