Recently purchased bike. Changed oil to Motul 10W40 semisynthetic. Good choice?
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on October 01, 2015, 12:32:06 AM
Recently purchased bike. Changed oil to Motul 10W40 semisynthetic. Good choice?
Arrrrrgh--another oil thread--just shoot me now!!!! :flag_of_truce: Phew. OK that said any good quality 10/40 motor oil whether it be dinosaur, semisynthetic or full synthetic should be fine as long as it is changed regularly to keep it clean. The argument over which brand is best can go on forever and become very heated. Use the "search" function for "oil type" and you can see what various members are using. Welcome to the forum. Dave
Quote from: TexasDave on October 01, 2015, 02:21:18 AM
Quote from: Yamahammer1200 on October 01, 2015, 12:32:06 AM
Recently purchased bike. Changed oil to Motul 10W40 semisynthetic. Good choice?
Arrrrrgh--another oil thread--just shoot me now!!!! :flag_of_truce: Phew. OK that said any good quality 10/40 motor oil whether it be dinosaur, semisynthetic or full synthetic should be fine as long as it is changed regularly to keep it clean. The argument over which brand is best can go on forever and become very heated. Use the "search" function for "oil type" and you can see what various members are using. Welcome to the forum. Dave
What He Said. Oil questions are loaded questions. Its like asking what tyre is best or What brand of fuel to use, and everyone has an opinion on it.
Why not an oil thread?
It's been pretty dead here lately anyway. I think everyone got tired with two rallies the same week (especially Mike R.).
RotellaT here (though I'd like to find a synth that the ol' gal liked to consume a bit less).
OK Have to agree Rotella full syn is probably the best bang for the buck. Cheaper than most synthetics. The problem with semisynthetics is you have no idea how much synthetic is mixed with the dinosaur. Could be two drops. Pretty clever of the oil companies to get it set up this way. I am running Mobil full synthetic at the moment-- it was on sale at Walmart. Dave
We changed over to Motul 4T 10w-40 full synthetic over the summer.
Happy with the results so far.
Randy - RPM
I use Castrol Power 1 Racing 10W50 full synthetic.
Very good for a hot air cooled 1100 :good2:
Quote from: 4everFJ on October 01, 2015, 03:27:30 PM
I use Castrol Power 1 Racing 10W50 full synthetic.
Very good for a hot air cooled 1100 :good2:
Probably not as efficient at cooling our engines as 10/40. FJ is also oil cooled and thicker oil will not circulate as fast--especially in Denmark. Thicker is not always better. Dave
Here, read through this: http://fjowners.wikidot.com/oil (http://fjowners.wikidot.com/oil)
Quote from: TexasDave on October 01, 2015, 03:08:20 PM
OK Have to agree Rotella full syn is probably the best bang for the buck. Cheaper than most synthetics. The problem with semisynthetics is you have no idea how much synthetic is mixed with the dinosaur. Could be two drops. Pretty clever of the oil companies to get it set up this way. I am running Mobil full synthetic at the moment-- it was on sale at Walmart. Dave
Plus, with semi-synth, any advantage of the synth content is diminished.
I believe this to be true.
"Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics."
I believe the oil company's lobbyed to get any dino oil to be called "Synthetic" as long as they meet synthetic spec's.
So the rebuild of Wizard's motor involved new cams. Turns out the cam difference required that I use a high Zink oil, presumably for lubrication benefit. I ran various oils trying to fix oil consumption and inadvertently hosed the camshafts (MegaCycle). The synthetics I ran that didn't do the job apparently include Valvoline, Motul, Redline, and Mobile 1. Turns out Randy's original recommendation is one of the 2 oils that are ok'd by the manufacturer of my new WebCams, so my rebuild will hopefully last more than 16K this time... sure is fun now though.
just thought I'd share that...
Frank
Frank, did Randy come up with a fix for the oil ring problem on the 1350s?. And what high zinc oil are you using? For the big cams.
Quote from: TexasDave on October 01, 2015, 03:36:57 PM
Quote from: 4everFJ on October 01, 2015, 03:27:30 PM
I use Castrol Power 1 Racing 10W50 full synthetic.
Very good for a hot air cooled 1100 :good2:
Probably not as efficient at cooling our engines as 10/40. FJ is also oil cooled and thicker oil will not circulate as fast--especially in Denmark. Thicker is not always better. Dave
The 50 in 10W50 is viscosity at high temperatures. I have used 10W40 in high temparatures in stop-n-go traffic (in Denmark..) and the oil had the viscosity of water...
Not a problem with 10W50, so I am sticking to that :yes:
Quote from: giantkiller on October 02, 2015, 06:56:32 AM
Frank, did Randy come up with a fix for the oil ring problem on the 1350s?. And what high zinc oil are you using? For the big cams.
Wiseco came up with the fix and Randy figured out how to implement it with my old, already shrunk Wiseco pistons. The Valvoline VR1 Racing (non-synthetic) Randy has recommended all along is one of two WebCam recommends (Kendal is the other I think). I'm using 20-50...
Frank
Quote from: Flynt on October 02, 2015, 01:20:01 AM
So the rebuild of Wizard's motor involved new cams. Turns out the cam difference required that I use a high Zink oil, presumably for lubrication benefit.
Frank
Based on the previous experience with other MC cams, I seriously doubt the oil was the reason they failed. Your cams looked exactly like Bozo's and a couple of other cams that have come through the door.
Yes, the Valvoline VR1 20w-50 is a high zinc oil for use on mechanical tappet cams. Most over the counter oils have removed the zinc because it is "harmful" to the environment and it is not needed in newer engine that utilize roller tappet/rocker design.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 02, 2015, 09:32:18 AM
I seriously doubt the oil was the reason they failed...
Thanks Randy... I always default to blaming myself since on most occasions it works out to be my fault :dash1:
Frank
My engine consumes oil no matter what brand or grade I use. :cray:
I run Royal Purple, Max Cycle, 20w50 full synthetic.
Fred
I changed my oil this morning. Was using Yamaha semi-synthetic 20W-50 but experience some minor shift issues and some high RPM full throttle clutch slippage.
I'm not sure the clutch slippage is not from miles and the drag strip - anyway.....
Picked up a case of Yamaha standard 10W-40 and some WIX 51334 filters.
Bike shifts much better, experienced no slipping, but honestly I did not flog it that hard.
Hard enough.
And that black WIX filter not only looked great, not catching sh1t for using a Fram filter is borderline priceless!
Also replace the stock air filter with a OEM replacement.
It's been a great day, got in nearly 80 miles.