Anybody modify the idle speed adjuster by replacing the unfortunately placed adjuster wheel with a cable adjuster? If so, we're you able to use a cable adjuster without modification, and what bike was it from? For example, does the R1 cable have the same thread size and pitch?
I am sick of the lack of fine control, and using a screwdriver is plain idiotic.
Thanks for any help!
Quote from: azure on August 24, 2015, 02:36:29 AM
Anybody modify the idle speed adjuster by replacing the unfortunately placed adjuster wheel with a cable adjuster? If so, we're you able to use a cable adjuster without modification, and what bike was it from? For example, does the R1 cable have the same thread size and pitch?
I am sick of the lack of fine control, and using a screwdriver is plain idiotic.
Thanks for any help!
More work than it's worth for the number of times you need to adjust it.
The trick is to crack the throttle a little to lift the stop off the adjusting screw (take the load off it), makes it really easy to turn, then use a gloved hand (if it's hot) and adjust it. I can do mine over the duration of a red light in the traffic.
Once you've done it a few times you fingers will land straight on it when you shove your hand in there, dead easy.
As you say, screwdrivers just don't work, too clumsy and no fine control.
Noel
Why not just reach in with your hand and adjust it, I've got a pretty big hand but I can reach in and turn it no worries. If the heat shield is in the way, just push it upwards till you can feel the knob. Some of the pussies here wear gloves so they don't get burnt, but you don't need them.
Edit: Looks like Noel beat me to it.
A more pertinent question is why do you need to fiddle with the idle stop?
If the carbs are in good nick, you shouldn't have to touch it once its been set.
If you find yourself adjusting the idle to keep it running properly (once warmed up), something is amiss (setting are wrong, carbs require cleaning, etc).
However, I do like to get mine off choke asap to help with preventing plug fouling. I've got a throttle lock on mine that I use when riding (I've got a bad rh wrist from a previous injury). If I find I've come off choke too early for a good stable idle, I'll crack the throttle slightly and flip the lock on. Once its warmed properly, I don't need the throttle lock.I flip it off and it ticks over at a nice steady idle (I have mine at about 1000 rpm to quiet the starter chain slap noise).
But there shouldn't be a need to play with the idle stop if the carbs are set up properly to start with. It usually indicates some carb maint is required if you do.
Cheers
Thank you,
I use a throttle lock as well. My carbs work fine, completely and well rebuilt with no vacuum leaks. I also prefer not to use the choke in hot humid weather when the air is not plentiful, and want easier access to making adjustments. I don't like the design,and don't want to get off the bike to make fine idle adjustments. It appears that I am a distinct minority, so be it. I will try an early 2000s F6 cable.
I own many classic motorcycles, and have worked on many more. One can accept inherent flaws with a particular bike, or try to solve them. Now if I can just figure out how to dampen that pita fuel sensor float!
Quote from: azure on August 24, 2015, 06:28:13 AM
Now if I can just figure out how to dampen that pita fuel sensor float!
I've seen suggestions here to ground the fuel tank to eliminate or lessen the fuel level needle's bounce, but never (at least with my eyes) seen where a report came back after it was tried that it was successful. The old fix seems to be to replenish the damping fluid in the gauge's module. There's aged posts about a procedure for doing so, if you want to give it a go. I fill the tank, and use the tripometer to gauge my next needed gas stop, and ignore the bouncing needle.
Quote from: azure on August 24, 2015, 06:28:13 AM
Thank you,
I also prefer not to use the choke in hot humid weather when the air is not plentiful, and want easier access to making adjustments. I don't like the design,and don't want to get off the bike to make fine idle adjustments..........
........One can accept inherent flaws with a particular bike, or try to solve them.
Ben, correct me if I'm wrong but the way that reads to me is you want the ability to alter the idle setting every time you start it, rather than give it the choke it needs, to keep the idle up until it's warm and then presumably turn it down again.
Is that right?
I wouldn't exactly call the design flawed, idle speed adjustment in normal operation is a very occasional one, and as has been said by several folks here, very easy to reach with your hands.
Anyway, each to their own, let's know how the mod goes, there's no downside to it.
Noel