Hi all!
Couple of questions for valve adjustment procedure.
1. Any ideas where the special tool for pressing the valves could be bought in EU and is it really crucial?
2. What to buy before starting the job? (gaskets etc.)?
3. Any idea also where to buy feeler gauges in EU?
4. Do I need to reset the cam chain tensioner if I remove valve cover? (I had a Kawi where this was necessary)
5. And last, since I don't have any experience with valve adjustment (but plenty of expirience in fixing all other parts of bike, only a good will and a Clymer manual, I ask you for recommendation should I do it myself or look for an expert?
Enjoy your rides! :yes:
It is ,,easy" job if You have patience ;)
You need:
1. valve shim tool - best source is eBay. It is expensive (less then 60 Euro from USA) but less then pay for mechanic to do the job. You can buy in EU but for crazy prices.
2. Feeler gauge - You can buy in any local shop with car parts. Or of course from eBay.
3. Shims- but which ones - You will know after You check clearances. I bought from Ford dealer. Ford ZETEC engines uses this same 25mm shims and they costs much less. If You need ,,half" sizes (258,262,268..) -again eBay.
4. Cover gasket - in my FJ survived already 4 disassembly procedures. So You decide....
If You want buy all together and be sure that all will fit perfect- visit RPM website: http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39)
You don't have to touch cam tensioner. And be aware: The Clymer illustrations are often generic....
For step by step instruction search on forum. You can start here: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1784.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1784.0)
4. No need to fool around with the cam chain tensioner. Not necessary.
Depending on the mileage of your bike and the care it received before you owned it, you may not need a new cam cover gasket. You may need new cam cover screw grommets though. When you take it apart, see how pliable they still are.
Remove the spark plugs, and cover their holes up. It makes it easier to turn the engine over.
While your in tbe area, clean the ignition coils's connections. Remove the spark plug caps, and trim the ignition wires back about 10-12mm and reinstall the caps.
Any manual for the FJ is good to have around. Factory Service Manual is best tbough.
Good luck!
Thx guys!
So the valve cover on FJ is not used for cam chain tensioning? That's the reason why the tensioner on my Kawasaki GPz 550 need to be removed if the valve cover was removed, so that was the reason for the question first place.
You see, mine bike has only 24000 km and according to many user experinces, I shouldn't even think on valves. But some ticking sounds somehow remind me on that every time. Although, they are not getting worse and bike runs like hell. Also, according to the manual, valve clearances should be checked on 20 k kilometers.
Does any of you has experience with leaded fuel or lead additives? I heard that lead was very beneficial for old motors like FJs, especially valve seats.
Tell me, please, what does TBE stand for? I'm not a native english speaker, sorry. And screw grommets? Does Randy have them or can I find them somewhere else?
Ah yes, found them at Randy's.
The problem is, I allready wanted to order something from Randy, but he doesn't have Croatia listed as a possible shipping country.
Quote from: balky1 on August 02, 2015, 10:20:16 AM
Tell me, please, what does TBE stand for? I'm not a native english speaker, sorry. And screw grommets? Does Randy have them or can I find them somewhere else?
Where do you see "TBE"? Out of context it could mean a lot of different things.
http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/TBE (http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/TBE)
Quote from: balky1 on August 02, 2015, 10:27:06 AM
Ah yes, found them at Randy's.
The problem is, I allready wanted to order something from Randy, but he doesn't have Croatia listed as a possible shipping country.
Balky,
Give Randy a call before you give up on ordering from him. He may have an optional route for shipping that his website does not show. Otherwise the UK FJ group may be your next best source for parts.
Joe
Ebay (at least the USA one does) has the screw grommet/seals also, if RPM doesn't support Croatia shipping.
Croatia has been enabled.
Robert -RPM
Quote from: balky1 on August 02, 2015, 10:20:16 AM
Tell me, please, what does TBE stand for?
TBE is a fuel additive http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0009.html (http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0009.html)
The fj was designed and only recommended to use unleaded fuel. My owners manual and fuel tank sticker is my reference.
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 02, 2015, 11:33:54 AM
Croatia has been enabled.
Robert -RPM
Fantastic! Thanks!
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 02, 2015, 10:35:22 AM
Quote from: balky1 on August 02, 2015, 10:20:16 AM
Tell me, please, what does TBE stand for? I'm not a native english speaker, sorry. And screw grommets? Does Randy have them or can I find them somewhere else?
Where do you see "TBE"? Out of context it could mean a lot of different things.
http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/TBE (http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/TBE)
Look at FJ1100mjk post from 7:31 AM, 5th line. He mentions TBE area.
Quote from: copper on August 02, 2015, 11:45:35 AM
Quote from: balky1 on August 02, 2015, 10:20:16 AM
Tell me, please, what does TBE stand for?
TBE is a fuel additive http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0009.html (http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0009.html)
The fj was designed and only recommended to use unleaded fuel. My owners manual and fuel tank sticker is my reference.
Yep, I saw it also in the Manual. But my godfather drove the FJs back in time when there was still leaded fuel on stations in Europe and ridden them only on leaded. It is a question was there even unleaded fuel back then in Croatia (former Yugoslavia). Without any problems. In theory if the bike has no exhaust catalyst, leaded fuel should make no difference. Also, European FJs don't have that thing for fuel vapour, so I don't know. That's why I asked for fuel.
Quote from: balky1 on August 02, 2015, 12:22:24 PM
Look at FJ1100mjk post from 7:31 AM, 5th line. He mentions TBE area.
So "TBE" was a fat fingered "THE"....
[snip] While your in tbe (the) area, clean the ignition coils's connections.
Never mind.... As you were lads...
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 02, 2015, 12:28:49 PM
Quote from: balky1 on August 02, 2015, 12:22:24 PM
Look at FJ1100mjk post from 7:31 AM, 5th line. He mentions TBE area.
So "TBE" was a fat fingered "THE"....
[snip] While your in tbe (the) area, clean the ignition coils's connections.
Never mind.... As you were lads...
:rofl2:
OMG, like when I type on a smartphone. :crazy:
today I had a go at the valve clearances on my 92 3XW.
All is good until I come to use the special tool I got from RPM. No matter how I install the tool (and I tried several times) it won't hold the shim bucket down enough to get the shim out when the cam lobe is rotated out of the way after holding the valve open to install the tool.
Is there a trick to using this device ? it seems simple enough but it appears not to be doing its job............??
Its sometimes tricky to get the tool onto the lip of the bucket and not also on the shim.
You also have to try and get it so the notch in the bucket (lifter actually) is accessable.
Use a magnet to help get the shim out. There will be a film of oil between the shim and bucket that frequently makes it difficult to get them separated. In fact, if you use a magnet and a pointed tool to help lift the shim you may find it easier.
You are installing the tool when the valve is fully depressed, right? Once the tool is in place, you rotate the engine so the lobe is away from the shim and you can then remove it.
Arnie
Thanks for the quick reply Arnie
I can flip the shim up ok but it hits the cam.
What is happening is the bucket comes up as the cam is rotated back till it hits the tool. The shim pops up at the front but doesn't clear the recess of the bucket.
Its almost like the tool tip isn't long enough. (it doesn't help that I can't see what I'm doing) maybe sucking the oil out of there will help see otherwise the cams are coming out !
Yes, its sometimes frustrating. Sucking the oil out so you can see will help.
You need to put pressure on the tool to get it to stay in place as you tighten the screw. Are you having this problem with all the valves or just #3 ?
Using a magnet (like on the end of a scriber) you should be able to drag/slide the shim out sideways.
Worst case scenario is that you may have to lift the cams, but you really want to avoid that if possible.
Quote from: FJools on August 14, 2015, 10:27:07 PM
Thanks for the quick reply Arnie
I can flip the shim up ok but it hits the cam.
What is happening is the bucket comes up as the cam is rotated back till it hits the tool. The shim pops up at the front but doesn't clear the recess of the bucket.
Its almost like the tool tip isn't long enough. (it doesn't help that I can't see what I'm doing) maybe sucking the oil out of there will help see otherwise the cams are coming out !
ok
Thanks for all the help Arnie,
sucking the oil out helped and I got the shim out - with a bit more applied force :good2: #270. Ideally I need a 275 so I can see where this is all going :gamer:
My shim kit only goes up in 0. 10mm so with a measured gap of 0.16 at 1A inlet I can't do an awful lot. Are the 0.05 increment shims available ?
Now I now what's happening I can at least record everything for future reference.
Good to hear you've progressed. :-)
Yes, the 0.05 mm shims are available.
If you've got a "friendly" Yamaha, Honda, or Toyota shop,
they may be willing to swap shims for the ones you no longer need.
If not for free, maybe $5 each for the swap.
There is rarely any wear on the shims, but some shade tree mechanics
will try to adjust a shim with a file or grinder.
Therefore, measure each shim no matter what the marking says.
I think Randy (RPM) actually has 0.025 increment shims. (for those OCD valve setters out there)
Interesting that your gap has increased from the previous time they were set.
Usually the gap becomes smallerr as the valve resescion continues.
Arnie
Intakes ranged from 0.10 - 0.16mm. exhausts 0.12 - 0.18mm.
I managed to shift a few around and only actually used about 4 new shims from Randy's shim kit !
I still need to change 8 to be "comfortably" within spec. (and join the OCD club LOL)
But as it stands its better than it was and I now have the information should I ever have to check them again in my lifetime :rofl2:
Quote from: FJools on August 16, 2015, 03:53:07 AM
I still need to change 8 to be "comfortably" within spec. (and join the OCD club LOL)
OCD is getting them milled to
exactly spec. :biggrin:
Noel