I guess I should not complain too much. My throttle cable broke and I coasted a half mile to a shady picnic area with port-potties and good cell coverage, but it still broke. I still had to call my wife to drive my car with the trailer-in-a-bag to rescue me. So now I'm wondering, 1. is there a conversion to a 2 cable system for our "older" models? 2. Why not? and 3. I know the book recommends replacing all cables unless there's a "reason" this one broke. But the parts list for throttle cables is pretty expensive. What do you guys do? Maybe I have a "reason" for this one breaking. The ferrule was twisted in the grip and poorly lubed... Yes, my fault there.
Advise appreciated,
Anson
Anson,
There have been several guys who have converted over to the late model two cable assembly:
91-93 Throttle Cable Assy (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A91-93TC)
But then there are other guys who get tired of fighting the cables when trying to remove the carbs and they have converted their later model bikes to the old style four cable system so you can just leave the lower cables attached to the carbs when removing them.
I have all four of the cable available as at this time Yamaha has discontinued the lower two.
If you search "throttle cable" on the RPM website.
Randy - RPM
I like my '84's cable system. The splitter box makes removal/replacement (r/r) of the carbs a snap.
I had a '92 and fighting with r/r the throttle cables from the carb linkage was a PIA.
Therefore, my opinion, based on my experience, is that the early cable setup using a splitter box is superior.
Cables on our old bikes need replacement, just a fact of life.
Quote from: anson45 on June 24, 2015, 08:39:51 PM
I guess I should not complain too much. My throttle cable broke and I coasted a half mile to a shady picnic area The ferrule was twisted in the grip and poorly lubed... Yes, my fault there. Advise appreciated,
Anson
Anson,
Good lube helps, no doubt. Beyond the ferrule, this cable lubrication tool costs about US$10 +/-
and works with any good spray-can lube (which does NOT include WD-40). Any bike shop or Amazon sells them.
Good for single or double throttle cables.
(http://user.xmission.com/~red/CableLube%20Tool.jpg)
Cheers,
Red
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 24, 2015, 11:25:01 PM
I like my '84's cable system. The splitter box makes removal/replacement (r/r) of the carbs a snap.
I had a '92 and fighting with r/r the throttle cables from the carb linkage was a PIA.
Therefore, my opinion, based on my experience, is that the early cable setup using a splitter box is superior.
Quote from: racerrad8 on June 24, 2015, 09:44:17 PM
But then there are other guys who get tired of fighting the cables when trying to remove the carbs and they have converted their later model bikes to the old style four cable system
Randy - RPM
Not so gentlemen and as Anson found out, a single cable can leave you stranded.
I think this was posted while you were both at the rally. This is a copy of a post of a PM.
Quote from: ribbert on June 08, 2015, 09:01:24 AM
Quote from: ribbert on April 05, 2015, 08:07:43 AM
The good new is it took less than 60 secs without tools or bad language for both cables, the bad news is trying to explain it so it's clear. I'll have a go.
Jam the butterflies wide open.
Open the throttle fully (at the twist grip) it will stay there because there is no return spring yet, this makes the inner on the return cable longest.
Poke the whole return cable, from the back on the carbies, on the path it will take when hooked up.
You now have oodles of cable poking out the front with lots of slack.
Hook it up with your fingers ( you have bucket loads of slack to do this)
Remove the chock from the butterflies and pull the outer cable onto it's mounting bracket.
The pull cable is easy, hook inner up first and then pull outer into bracket.
Adjust accordingly.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7599/16420821813_03d05bf459_b.jpg)
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8712/16853438590_83df43f0e0_b.jpg)
As you can see, I'm not holding anything here and there is plenty of slack
Return cable first, then pull cable.
Both cable inners connected before outers mounted in adjusting bracket.
Probably as clear as mud :biggrin:
If you have any questions or I haven't made something clear, PM me.
Noel
And fit them before fitting the carbs to the bike.
Noel
Quote from: red on June 25, 2015, 12:00:09 AM
this cable lubrication tool costs about US$10 +/-
and works with any good spray-can lube (which does NOT include WD-40). Any bike shop or Amazon sells them.
Good for single or double throttle cables.
(http://user.xmission.com/~red/CableLube%20Tool.jpg)
Cheers,
Red
I have one of these well used 'tools' in my tool cabinet...great for throttle and choke cables. Inexpensive, very easy to use and only takes a few moments to fully lube cables right from end to end. I use a spray grease...comes out liquid and sets up as a light grease in a few seconds...VOILA!!! :good2:
John.
Thanks guys for all the information. My FJ is safely stowed in the garage, I'll get to it over the weekend and check the condition of the cables. It's real easy to let maintenance slip when I only ride, at most, a couple of thousand (per bike) over the 6 month season. Back when I rode two strokes for transportation, work and school( 75 miles a day), there were things needing attention every other week. I would spend every other Saturday morning tightening nuts, adjusting chain, lubing and cleaning. Now, not so much..obviously.
Thanks again,
Anson