Hey everyone, got a question I'm new to the fj. I have a 1986 fj1200 and the anti drive looked like it had leaked out all the brake fluid so I unscrewed it from the fork and I guess all the fork oil drained out. So my question is how do I refill it? I'm kinda confused with 5hat whole set up seeing the front brake feeds the brake and the anti drive. The front brake was empty so I thought when I took off the anti drive it would be empty too. Thanks in advance for the help....
Welcome fellow '86 owner.. You have some issues to deal with. The Anti-Dive (AD) units are a bit of contention here. My '86 had them but I feel like they were more hype than help. But a recent '84 owner says they actually work and help. But if you pissed out your fork oil then you need to fix that first. I have upgraded to '89 forks and RPM valves that use 5W oil so I can not provide support to the proper oil. Others will likely post what they use.
Where in the world are you? You might find support from some local members...
So you can't just refill them or what? I'm guess nothing is easy huh? I took the entire anti drive (2bolts) off the fork and it drained from there
So all the oil came out of the 2 holes of the fork. Not sure how to fill it back up
You drained the fork oil. It must be refilled from the top of the fork by removing the fork cap.
The A/D is activated by brake fluid pressure, but it works by controlling the flow of fork oil (in theory).
Thank you..Is it as easy as popping the cap and pouring it in?
Quote from: haler on June 14, 2015, 08:46:21 PM
Thank you..Is it as easy as popping the cap and pouring it in?
Of Course NOT !!
Search for "fork overhaul" on this list to get the details of what you need to do.
First thing you'll need to do is replace those AD units or put blanking plates over the opening. The fork oil needs to be able to move across those ports.
You can just re-install the AD units and not connect the brake line to them, but you'll also have to change to single height banjo bolts at the calipers.
WHERE ARE YOU ? This list has over 4000 members and at least one of them may be close enough to come help you.
Arnie
Quote from: Arnie on June 14, 2015, 09:23:18 PMQuote from: haler on June 14, 2015, 08:46:21 PM
Thank you..Is it as easy as popping the cap and pouring it in?
Of Course NOT !! Search for "fork overhaul" on this list to get the details of what you need to do.
First thing you'll need to do is replace those AD units or put blanking plates over the opening. The fork oil needs to be able to move across those ports.
You can just re-install the AD units and not connect the brake line to them, but you'll also have to change to single height banjo bolts at the calipers.
Arnie
Haler,
Arnie is correct. Flat blanking plates would not work, in place of the Anti-Dive units. The blocking plates need to have internal oil passages, to let the suspension operate at all. Somebody was making them, (I believe) at about US$100.00 or so for a pair. I would just leave the AD units in place, and bypass them with the brake hose. The short (now useless) brake line that you remove will have the single-height banjo bolt needed to connect the brake line to the caliper.
Cheers,
Red
Hey guys, I plan on putting the AD back on the forks I am just trying to figure out how to get oil back in the forks. Everything is staying stock
I recommend that you remove the forks so they can be held in a vertical position. Remove the caps and springs, fully compress the fork, add oil, extend and compress the forks a few times to work out any air. Then when fully compressed fill to 6 inches from the top of the fork tube. The Haynes manual lists the fork capacity as 15.08 U.S. oz. This handy tool makes setting oil level real easy. Make sure you do both forks and use new oil.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tools%3AForkLevel&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tools%3AForkLevel&cat=39)
(http://www.rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/tools%20ForkLevel-1.jpg)
OR you can make that "special tool".
Really easy way to do this is with a disposable syringe with a short tube on the end and an O-ring around the body of the syringe.
You set the distance you want by putting the O-ring the intended distance from the tip of the tube. You then rest the O-ring on the top edge of the fork tube and suck the excess* oil out.
* you have to put in slightly more oil than you need to be able to suck "excess" out.
IOW you just fill the fork to approx where you want the oil to be.
Make sure you cycle the fork tubes in/out a couple of times to avoid air pockets and false measurements
You can get disposable syringes at a pharmacy, medical, farm, or lab supply store.
so i got the caps and spring out added the oil but now when i compress the forks they don't come back out so IDK
If you are in the US, you probably better call Randy, your well being depends on the forks being right
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Quote from: haler on June 18, 2015, 11:23:49 AM
so i got the caps and spring out added the oil but now when i compress the forks they don't come back out so IDK
Thanks Copper...
Haler they wont extend after you put the springs in?
If you need to give me a call and I can try and walk you though the issue.
Randy - RPM
yes after i put new oil in and put everything together i pushed the bike and hit the front brake and the forks compressed but won't decompress unless i pull up on the handlebars
How much oil did you add?
Did the springs have any spacers?
I used 14oz like my manual said. And the spacers I'm not sure about. All I did was take the caps off pulled up the inner springs added oil made sure it was lined back up and put it back together
The rebound damping adjusting rod is not installed correctly and is causing the fork to stick