Hi
I fitted one of those extra strong shift springs and roller from Randy now the clutch slips at high rpm and I cant find neutral unless the bike is rolling and it creeps in gear at a stop. Also fitted a new modern slave I have got lever full stroke but it feels lighter than the leaking original.
On re assembly of the clutch what classic thing did I do wrong or did I lose some little important part?
Chiz Thanks
Assuming you put all the fiber plates and steel friction plates back in the correct order, it sounds like you squeezed the clutch lever when things were disassembled.
Take your clutch slave off (leave hose connected)
Open up the bleeder port
With your thumb, push in the slave diaphragm, juice will squirt out the bleeder port, be careful.
With your thump pressing on the diaphragm, close the bleeder port
Reinstall the slave.
Now pump the lever and see how it feels. Top off the resevoir.
Take it for a ride and see if it is fixed.
Sorry I have wasted your time Pat but my terminology is wrong .... I changed the master.. never removed the slave. Would any of your reply still apply?
Chiz
Quote from: chiz on May 23, 2015, 08:11:03 AM
Sorry I have wasted your time Pat but my terminology is wrong .... I changed the master.. never removed the slave. Would any of your reply still apply?
Chiz
What you described is air in the clutch hydraulics. After changing the master it was not bleed properly. The clutch plates are dragging because air compresses and prevents the full travel of the pushrod. Bleed it again and test.
Quote from: chiz on May 23, 2015, 08:11:03 AM
Sorry I have wasted your time Pat but my terminology is wrong .... I changed the master.. never removed the slave. Would any of your reply still apply?
Chiz
nope
Quote from: chiz on May 22, 2015, 11:09:32 PMHi
I fitted one of those extra strong shift springs and roller from Randy now the clutch slips at high rpm and I cant find neutral unless the bike is rolling and it creeps in gear at a stop. Also fitted a new modern slave I have got lever full stroke but it feels lighter than the leaking original. On re assembly of the clutch what classic thing did I do wrong or did I lose some little important part?
Chiz Thanks
Chiz,
Assuming that you got all the parts in place correctly:
You might want to try bleeding the clutch hydraulics again.
It may help to get the last of the air out of the lines if you pull the clutch handle in and tie it back, pulled right to the grip overnight. Let the clutch lever out slowly the next morning, and operate the clutch handle slowly, a few more times. If that helps, try this same trick again, the next night. Check the fluid level of the clutch master cylinder at the sight window before every ride, until the fluid level does not change. Top off the fluid as needed, before you ride.
Cheers,
Red
what master did you use?
Looks to be a copy of a Honda master black and rectangular in shape The one for the brake works fine.
what is the piston size?
I asked because you said is pulls easier which means it is smaller in bore size but might not have enough stroke to completely disengage the clutch completely. not sure if that has anythiign to do with the slip
I tried to install a 14mm FJR clutch mastercylinder on my 85 and had the exact problem. Full stroke was not enough to fully release the clutch. Wound up putting the stock master back on.
However my clutch didn't slip. You had to remove the disc pack to install your new parts. Did everything go back together correctly? Did the clutch slip at high rpm before the work?
Hey Hooli, the FJR clutch m/c works fine on my '84.... Although I do have a Barnett 6 coil spring plate.
For those that have installed clutch master cylinders and have problems with a creeping clutch. Try getting a 6 position adjustable lever for whichever model your clutch master came from. Set the lever on the #6 position when bleeding the clutch. Gives max piston movement.
Fred
Did that Fred. Didn't help. Max stroke with the lever as far from the bar as possible still didn't cut it