Last fall, I bought a 93 with less than 27K miles. I think I paid $1800 for it.
(http://i.imgur.com/im0a29B.jpg)
It was in very nice shape, but had original brake lines, tires that were 12 years old, and leaking oil from the cam cover. I has a couple of other small issues, but I'll tackle those later.
So this spring, I started by checking the valves, and I changed 8 shims. I also changed those rubber mounts on the cam cover bolts. I think that's where the oil was actually leaking from. The cover gasket looked fine, so I brushed some silicone on it (I feels that helps "nourish" rubber; am I wrong?) and reinstalled it all. Note here how the new rubber mounts (on the left) are fatter than the old ones (on the right):
(http://i.imgur.com/Nm50mja.jpg)
I wonder how old riders here a willing to tolerate in a tire. For me, it's around 6 years. I went with Metzelers again, getting the bias ply because of manufacturer recommendations against radials in the stock tire sizes. Look at the weird nylon stuff that was wrapped around one of the collars on my rear axle:
(http://i.imgur.com/z7B39gUl.jpg)
It's like a nylon dog leash or something. How weird.
Since I assumed it had stock bearings, I did take the opportunity to change the bearings. I went with All-balls. I was surprised that one of the stock dust seals was metal. One mistake I made was forgetting to put back in the spacer back in before installed the 2nd set of bearings. :dash2: I used a bearing remover, which can deform the old bearing race, but I've taken the chance and reinstalled it after I popped it out once.
(http://i.imgur.com/Q6UQ0aMl.jpg)
So, this week, I have the front tire to remove and replace the rubber and bearings. From what I can see, the front and rear brake pads look thick enough, so I wasn't going to mess with them.
I've received a set of Galfer SS brake and clutch lines this week. I felt a little bad buying them off of Amazon, but it was significantly cheaper there. And yes, I've decided to keep the ABS unit. :biggrin: I know I should consider going through the master cylinder and all calipers and checking the condition of all those seals... but I'm waffling on it! I'm not looking forward to bleeding all those new lines! Wish me luck on that one.
Lastly, my tank is clean, and I've bought a new fuel filter to replace the old one. It's tough when the PO had no service records, so you are stuck assuming everything is stock.
Nice work, keep the photos coming!.
W-hair,
Good deal!
I should replace the wheel bearings in mine before all the rallies.
FYI, I've not experienced problems lately bleeding the brakes on my ABS. Swapped over to a set of Blue Dots and EBC HH pads a while back. Instant satisfaction. (Noel, you might want to try this, just to feel the difference. Really. Just TRY it!)
Steve
Quote from: Steve_in_Florida on April 12, 2015, 06:02:47 PM
......(Noel, you might want to try this, just to feel the difference. Really. Just TRY it!)
Steve
Try what Steve?
Noel
The double spring mod on your clutch, of course....wait, that's not it...
Steve, Noel already has blue spots...in fact he gave me a great polishing tip on the brake pad top plate.
I think we are slowly but surely wearing him down.
A note to the OP Wirehair, make sure you get to those front engine mount collars, remove and grease them.
Quote from: wirehairs on April 12, 2015, 03:37:05 PM
...... I used a bearing remover, which can deform the old bearing race, but I've taken the chance and reinstalled it after I popped it out once.
Replace it with a new one. This is not something you normally get away with.
If you've knocked it out by the inner race and it's a reasonably tight fit, it's stuffed.
Noel
+1 on Ribbert's advise - get a new bearing.
Quote from: ribbert on April 13, 2015, 04:46:26 AM
Quote from: wirehairs on April 12, 2015, 03:37:05 PM
...... I used a bearing remover, which can deform the old bearing race, but I've taken the chance and reinstalled it after I popped it out once.
Replace it with a new one. This is not something you normally get away with.
If you've knocked it out by the inner race and it's a reasonably tight fit, it's stuffed.
Noel
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 12, 2015, 07:58:03 PM
Steve, Noel already has blue spots...in fact he gave me a great polishing tip on the brake pad top plate.
...and "glow in the dark" rotors and EBC HH pads, and steel lines and 14mm m/c
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/12144183003_ef8d4200ab.jpg) (https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8367/8502532047_0c8f2bdeae.jpg)
The brakes were OK, but after I polished these little honeys up, they were spectacular.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8575/16072815993_8c43f791d5.jpg)
Steve, it was me who brought the EBC HH pads to the attention of the forum and relentlessly promoted their superior performance until eventually they were in sufficient use that they became the standard and an integral part of the caliper sidegrade.
I did each component separately with long periods in between and have now had them for years.
You are absolutely right, the brakes with all those improvements are excellent.
Noel
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 12, 2015, 07:58:03 PM
I think we are slowly but surely wearing him down.
Haha, in your dreams Pat, I'm just drawing breath. :biggrin:
Noel
My bad!
I mistakenly thought that Noel was one O' dem luddites, opposed to change! :rofl2:
Obviously, my failing memory of a brake upgrade discussion from long past.
Stopping efficiently is good.
Steve
Quote from: ribbert on April 13, 2015, 10:27:46 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 12, 2015, 07:58:03 PM
I think we are slowly but surely wearing him down.
Haha, in your dreams Pat, I'm just drawing breath. :biggrin:
Noel
I reckon you`re right Pat. He does seem ta be up at all hours of the night looking for blood! (It`s 1.45am here downunder at this moment!) .....we take a cross and a wooden stake with us to Rallys.....I reckon that`s why he never turns up to an overnighter of any kind! :dash2:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 12, 2015, 07:58:03 PM
Steve, Noel already has blue spots...in fact he gave me a great polishing tip on the brake pad top plate.
Care to share said polishing tip? :pardon:
Quote from: Firehawk068 on April 13, 2015, 11:50:08 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 12, 2015, 07:58:03 PM
Steve, Noel already has blue spots...in fact he gave me a great polishing tip on the brake pad top plate.
Care to share said polishing tip? :pardon:
Hey Alan, I was admiring Noel's polishing on the top spacer plate of the caliper:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8575/16072815993_8c43f791d5.jpg)
Details, details, details....
Quote from: wirehairs on January 17, 1970, 06:54:31 AM
Since I assumed it had stock bearings, I did take the opportunity to change the bearings. I went with All-balls. I was surprised that one of the stock dust seals was metal. One mistake I made was forgetting to put back in the spacer back in before installed the 2nd set of bearings. :dash2: I used a bearing remover, which can deform the old bearing race, but I've taken the chance and reinstalled it after I popped it out once.
(http://i.imgur.com/Q6UQ0aMl.jpg)
great idea :morning2: (begins scribbling)
this list s gonna get really long again i can already tell :mail1:
Quote from: Arnie on April 13, 2015, 09:52:47 AM
+1 on Ribbert's advise - get a new bearing.
OK. I confess I was being lazy. I've ordered another set; couldn't find a single. If anyone needs a single bearing for the rear, contact me!
OK. So after some delays, I replaced the rear tire and got it back on. Sure took some wiggling to squeeze it in.
I'm always unclear on how folks prop up their front ends when they pull off their front tires. The manual talks about jacks under the motor, but the collector box or plastic is always in the way. Anyways, I just did this:
(http://i.imgur.com/Qpfa66ql.jpg)
I also used allballs bearings on the front:
(http://i.imgur.com/vD0HxZ6l.jpg)
One of those dust seals sure was smaller than the stock one. Anyways, I'll change the gas filter tomorrow, and then finally take it for its first ride of the year. Yes, I still need to replace all 9 brake/clutch lines, but I'm waiting until the end of the month, and after I take a longer drive up to Duluth.
I still haven't decided on what luggage to get for this thing. What do folks think about the Cortesh 2.0 saddlebags with the matching tailbag? http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/51376/i/cortech-super-2-0-36-liter-saddlebags (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/51376/i/cortech-super-2-0-36-liter-saddlebags)
For supporting the fj with the front wheel off , The common way is to remove the lower chin faring and use jacks on the frame rails.
Or variantes of this.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/4/1651_23_02_13_3_28_22.jpeg)
But because of dirt bikes I have a special place in my heart for quality milk crates.... Hard to find the old wire ones.. :good2:
George
Quote from: wirehairs on May 01, 2015, 02:53:46 PM
I'm always unclear on how folks prop up their front ends when they pull off their front tires. The manual talks about jacks under the motor, but the collector box or plastic is always in the way. Anyways, I just did this:
I raise my front wheel every week for washing and occasional removal. A bottle jack will fit between the headers and there is a lug in front of the drain plug that I have been using for years. It's not as stable as Georges Ikea number but I've never had a problem and it is quick and doesn't require removing the belly pan.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JMJ2qOFvpgY/UsPSG-_TtMI/AAAAAAAAAUI/GCfKTZMKP7k/w1150-h859-no/IMG_1517.JPG)
BTW George, how do you elevate the front of the bike to get the stand under there?
Noel
I roll the bike up onto the 2X8 on the center stand then push down on the tail and have a helper insert the front stand. That's if I want both wheels up off the ground. For just working on the front end I don't use the 2X8 under the center stand.
If you have modified the rear end height you will have to do some experimenting on using a 2X8. Might have to shim up a bit. Not my design another member on in the form designed it. I have since modified it by lowering the front plywood height as I have a member here that has and FJ with a Vance Hines exhaust and for it to clear I had to lower the cross support.
George
Quote from: ribbert on May 01, 2015, 08:49:13 PM
Quote from: wirehairs on May 01, 2015, 02:53:46 PM
I'm always unclear on how folks prop up their front ends when they pull off their front tires. The manual talks about jacks under the motor, but the collector box or plastic is always in the way. Anyways, I just did this:
I raise my front wheel every week for washing and occasional removal. A bottle jack will fit between the headers and there is a lug in front of the drain plug that I have been using for years. It's not as stable as Georges Ikea number but I've never had a problem and it is quick and doesn't require removing the belly pan.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JMJ2qOFvpgY/UsPSG-_TtMI/AAAAAAAAAUI/GCfKTZMKP7k/w1150-h859-no/IMG_1517.JPG)
Great hint Noel I have always been a bit nervous about using the lug....but it will make things easier. Two fifty pounds bags of oats or a medium sized child on the back of the seat will lift the front end.
Jeff
BTW George, how do you elevate the front of the bike to get the stand under there?
Noel
Quick question: the breather line for the tank - it doesn't go anywhere? It just goes down by the battery and empties out by the rear shock? I wasn't sure if the tube I'm looking at was a leftover acid battery tube (I have a gel in there now). On my XJ, it's a vacuum tube that goes to an intake boot, so that's why I'm confused.
That line has nothing to do with venting your tank.
You have a recessed gas cap, that line serves as a drain line in case you over fill and get fuel in the recessed area of the gas cap.
It's a nice feature that alas, our '84/85 FJ's don't have.
Following on with the "Support Your Front End" query, I've done it both ways :biggrin:
On the centrestand with tie downs pulling the back down, and with a copy of Georges wooden support, with a bag of cement on the seat for stability, :yahoo:
Again Noel, you bike is waaayyyy to shiny and lustrous, :good2:
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo115/raywise_2008/FJ1200%20Bits%20and%20Pieces/FujiS6500fd-14060.jpg)
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo115/raywise_2008/FJ1200%20Bits%20and%20Pieces/FujiF550-15665.jpg)
So here are a couple of pictures of the bike currently.
(http://i.imgur.com/e4psRDVl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/AhsByzMl.jpg)
Luggage selection was difficult. I ended up buying a GIVI kit from the Ebay user "2nd-gear" - http://www.ebay.com/usr/2nd-gear?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 (http://www.ebay.com/usr/2nd-gear?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754) for $150 including shipping, and then bought a monokey box locally for $230 or something. Currently, I'm planning on getting soft sidebags.
Quote from: wirehairs on May 01, 2015, 02:53:46 PM
I'm always unclear on how folks prop up their front ends when they pull off their front tires. The manual talks about jacks under the motor, but the collector box or plastic is always in the way. Anyways, I just did this:
I have three concrete landscaping blocks I put on the back of the bike when it sits on the center stand. Front end stays up just fine.
Quote from: wirehairs on May 02, 2015, 01:22:23 PM
Quick question: the breather line for the tank - it doesn't go anywhere?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 02, 2015, 02:16:47 PM
You have a recessed gas cap, that line serves as a drain line in case you over fill and get fuel in the recessed area of the gas cap.
Pat is correct, but there is more. This tube also drains rainwater, making it important to keep it clear. I didn't and got a bunch of water in my carbs for my troubles, with the end result being having to walk the bike back home. Had to do a complete tank drain and dry. I used compressed air and a bicycle spoke to clear it, and haven't had trouble since.
Quote from: JPaganel on June 24, 2015, 03:19:13 PM
Quote from: wirehairs on May 02, 2015, 01:22:23 PM
Quick question: the breather line for the tank - it doesn't go anywhere?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 02, 2015, 02:16:47 PM
You have a recessed gas cap, that line serves as a drain line in case you over fill and get fuel in the recessed area of the gas cap.
Pat is correct, but there is more. This tube also drains rainwater, making it important to keep it clear. I didn't ...
Oh, good catch!
I live in the desert, so rain didn't occur to me.
Quote from: wirehairs on June 19, 2015, 04:02:20 PM
Luggage selection was difficult. I ended up buying a GIVI kit from the Ebay user "2nd-gear" - http://www.ebay.com/usr/2nd-gear?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 (http://www.ebay.com/usr/2nd-gear?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754) for $150 including shipping, and then bought a monokey box locally for $230 or something. Currently, I'm planning on getting soft sidebags.
One issue I had with my soft luggage was wear and tear on the passenger portion of the stock seat. When I bought my '92 (in '07) it came with a set of Joe Rocket bags. Over the years it wore the seat down to where the foam is showing through pits in the vinyl covering. Of course I realized this too late. I now have an old set of Krauser hard cases (and gave the JR's to a friend).
I realized I should have put an underpad beneath the straps to avoid this, but come to think of it.... this was the first time in 30yrs of riding that I had a bike with soft bags. :scratch_one-s_head:
Quote from: PaulG on July 16, 2015, 07:04:21 PM
One issue I had with my soft luggage was wear and tear on the passenger portion of the stock seat. When I bought my '92 (in '07) it came with a set of Joe Rocket bags. Over the years it wore the seat down to where the foam is showing through pits in the vinyl covering. Of course I realized this too late. I now have an old set of Krauser hard cases (and gave the JR's to a friend).
I realized I should have put an underpad beneath the straps to avoid this, but come to think of it.... this was the first time in 30yrs of riding that I had a bike with soft bags. :scratch_one-s_head:
I use a top box for regular riding and these bags for trips. Even though I do 4 or 5 trips a year I just can't bring myself to spring the $1500 for hard luggage. The bags work well, the only issue being constant heavy rain.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/368/19469111236_2980410420_c.jpg)
I have probably done 50,000km's with these and I carry all the heavy stuff, tools, oil, fuel, spares, water etc, in the front one, clothing in the rear.
I have used this piece of lambswool since day one and it gives complete protection to the paint and seat, even from corrugations, mud and dust.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/349/19137471034_316f2064d3_c.jpg)
The various qualities of lambswool makes it a good choice for this application.
OK. Time for an update. Each spring after taking this bike out of hibernation and priming the carbs, gas out leak out from the carbs somewhere for a bit until stopping. I figured I had some old o-rings in there that would dry up over the winter, and then re-seal once exposed to gas. But that also meant they were in need of replacement. I pulled the rack apart and sure enough one of those gas transfer tubes had a deformed o ring:
(http://i.imgur.com/OE9m6lYl.jpg)
So yeah, I'll replace all the o-rings in there that came witih my RPM kit. I also ordered the handle riser kit from them, and the spin-off oil filter; haven't installed them yet.
Now, the big work I have left, is that my bike had the original brakelines. I bought the Gaffer 9 line stainless line kit; clutch line included. I've already drained the lines and removed the master cylinder for the clutch and brakes. And yes, I'm leaving the anti-lock unit on this bike. I'd like to hear from anyone who's installed these lines for tips on refilling the system. My current plan is to use my MityVac until I only have a few bubbles, and then do the brake lever - nipple/open/closed deal to remove the final tiny air bubbles. But I'd appreciate any other tips to speed up the process.
And if I need to replace the rubber components in my master clutch/brake cylinder, I welcome suggestions on where to purchase the kits in the US and good brands.
Quote from: wirehairs on April 18, 2016, 10:53:42 AM
And if I need to replace the rubber components in my master clutch/brake cylinder, I welcome suggestions on where to purchase the kits in the US and good brands.
Check with Randy for the seal/rebuild kits for the master and slave.
92-93 ABS Rear Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A92-93MCRebuildKitRear)
84-93 Front Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFRTBRKRBKIT)
O.E. Yamaha Slave Seal Set (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=S%2FKYamaha)
Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AS%2FK)
Slave Cylinder (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3A5EA-16381-00%3A36y-16381-00)
In stock and ready to ship.
Robert - RPM
OK, so the o-rings have been replaced on my carbs along with the bowl gaskets, and I'll reassemble them tomorrow. With everything off the bike, I've taken the opportunity to install handlebar risers from RPM. But here's the thing: neither of my two manuals seem to accurately show what's in my forks. I have the 93 ABS one. When I removed the right fork cap, I could look down and see a disk completely covering the shaft a few inches down. But when I removed the fork cap on the left side, it was under pressure, and a disk flew out and revealed a spacer tube that doesn't seem to belong on the 93 model. That disk that flew out is of a smaller diameter than the tube. So, it appears to me that the right fork is different from the left one. Of course, I had closed up the left fork two days ago, so now I'm doubting what I saw, but it would be hard to not notice that there wasn't a loose cap in there. Here's a pic of the left hand fork:
(http://i.imgur.com/BV8wNWZl.jpg)
At some point someone installed aftermarket springs. Nothing to worry about.
Quote from: the fan on April 23, 2016, 04:50:43 PM
At some point someone installed aftermarket springs. Nothing to worry about.
And those aftermarket springs are shorter, and thus required the spacer, is that it?
Hhmm. One of these Galfer lines seems a little short for the line it's replacing. Anyone deal with something like this? Because it's right under the airbox, I don't have the room to bend it up.
(http://i.imgur.com/NpnjVCd.jpg)
Cap'n Ron, you replaced your lines on your ABS bike. Any help for the poor old sod?
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 25, 2016, 03:37:17 PM
Cap'n Ron, you replaced your lines on your ABS bike. Any help for the poor old sod?
I contacted Galfter, and they said this particular line should be 5" long, and since it's 6", they are sending me a replacement. One more issue solved!
So, I'm still not riding. Today, I figured out that the little flat rubber washers at the connection of the two halves of all 3 brake calipers don't appear on the Yamaha parts diagrams. So, the local Yamaha place couldn't figure out a part number to order them. What the heck? Someone help me out here!
(http://i.imgur.com/L3vEsd0.jpg)
These parts are not intended to to be replaced, if not damaged or lost can be reused. Otherwise a suitable replacement will need to be sourced.
I got mine from Randy. Here is a link http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ACaliperORing (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ACaliperORing) if it doesn't work simply search "Brake Caliper" I'll let you handle it from there.
Since they are in good condition, I decided to spray them with some silicone spray and reinstall them. :) Thanks for the input!
Quote from: wirehairs on May 09, 2016, 09:20:41 AM
Since they are in good condition, I decided to spray them with some silicone spray and reinstall them. :) Thanks for the input!
Silicone might be a problem if you are sticking with DOT 3 fluid.
Randy - RPM
After my brake overhaul, my front pads are dragging. I've decided it's because I didn't pay attention to which pads were where when I took them off, so in putting them back randomly, they now need to re-mate, so to speak, with the disks. That's my hope, anyways.
New concern: I've had some gas leaking out my overflow tube, and decided to clean out my gas cap. However, in reassembling it, I can't get it closed properly. Based on this picture, are they in the right order? Dumb question, I'm sure, but I can't figure it out, even though I took pictures as I was taking it apart.
(http://i.imgur.com/UKUbLTYl.jpg)
Oops! Nevermind! I see now that I had the plate in the wrong order. Silly me! :crazy:
So where's this bike at now?