Found a smoking deal on a Bandit rear wheel and tire, axle, gear, rotor and brake....
After reading the forums here I see a GSXR rear wheel will work on our FJ's and I know the Bandit wheel will work on a GSXR....Soooo....if a GSXR rear wheel can work on our FJ's can one assume that the Bandit wheel would work?
am I off base here....Any info is appreciated.
Thanks.
What year Bandit wheel are you looking at buying?
Let's start with a basic question. What diameter is the rear axial? What year GSXR's are getting the Bandit wheel? If they are the same years we are using for the upgrade then your logic has a fighting chance. What size is the Bandit rear wheel?
There are only a very few measurements needed to determine if a wheel will fit EASILY in our FJs.
They are:
Axle diameter = 20mm
Overall width of wheel assembly (sprocket carrier, wheel, brake hanger, and spacers) must be no greater than the distance between the FJ's swingarm legs at the axle.
The wheel rim can be ANY width, but the maximum width tire can be no more than (some) 180*
In practice this means that 5.5" is the largest wheel needed to properly mount the largest tire that will fit in the FJ and not rub on the chain.
* Some brands and models of tire are wider than nominally described and marketed. (Dunlop for one)
Remember, ANYthing can be made to fit ANYwhere if you have a large enough hammer (or wallet)
This is not rocket science.
Quote from: Arnie on April 10, 2015, 10:42:09 AM
Remember, ANYthing can be made to fit ANYwhere if you have a large enough hammer (or wallet)
This is not rocket science.
Quite true Arnie, like speed and money. But I think the goal is fit the damn thing in for less $$$... Most of us FJ junkies are cheep bastards and want the most for less.....
Quote from: ANGRYJOE on April 10, 2015, 12:46:26 AM
Found a smoking deal on a Bandit rear wheel and tire, axle, gear, rotor and brake....
After reading the forums here I see a GSXR rear wheel will work on our FJ's and I know the Bandit wheel will work on a GSXR....Soooo....if a GSXR rear wheel can work on our FJ's can one assume that the Bandit wheel would work?
am I off base here....Any info is appreciated.
Thanks.
Yeah it will fit I was going to use an rf 600 rear wheel which is the same as the early gixxer and bandit tho its only got a 5 stud sprocket and finding a 39 or 40 tooth rear sprocket was a nightmare ..so in the end I got an 89 gixxer 1100 rear wheel and parts for mine ,which Ive still got round to fit ...
I think the main reason the early gsxr wheel is popular is because it's got the same spoke pattern as the FJ ( later models at least) so when fitted, matches the front wheel and doesn't look out of place, plus it's easier to fit ( two 4mm spacers each side with no machining ) unlike a Yamaha wheel with the same pattern spokes.
Thanks for the responses...
the wheel is from a 97 Bandit 1200. I figure for the price I am paying, if I cannot make it work I can resell the parts and recoup my money.
(http://images.craigslist.org/00r0r_iiIv9ybAhnd_600x450.jpg)
The wheels are close enough, I dont think it will look out of place.
You could be the first guy to try fitting the Bandit swingarm on an FJ......it would make the wheel swap simple.......just a thought. Probably not a good one, but it is a thought. :crazy:
Joe
great minds think alike...But, I dont know...if he will give me a deal on the whole mess I might jump and give it a go....I aint skeerd...
I do hope that it is a straight fit as I might actually know where I can get a Bandit Rear wheel assembly. Rocking horse shit is easier to find than a GSXR wheel. Please keep us posted of your progress.
Mark
well, I have spent some time this evening trying to figure it out and it looks like the rear wheel bearings are the same part number for the GSXR 1100 and the Bandit 1200. Honestly that is the best evidence I've found this far to indicate this might be a good fitl.
I did find a GSXR wheel and associated parts at a local bike salvage yard for 300 bucks...but I am cheap...really cheap and if I can wait to get it cheaper I will. This whole set up should cost me less than 150usd.
Just the GSXR wheel with nothing attached and no tyre would cost more than $300au here. I really wished I lived in the States some times.
Mark
wonder how much shipping an assembly to Down Under would be....here is the place that has the GSXR wheel and associated parts.
http://www.dietzracing.com/ (http://www.dietzracing.com/)
They are local to me....if you ever want to pull the trigger I can inspect the parts first...
I have a friend here who owns a bike wreckers, and I think he had an older Bandit sitting in his shed. If your swap works I will go for that.
Then I could get it with no postage and if I ask him really nicely he may even let me use his workshop. Then all I have to do is upgrade the front end.
Might need to win the lottery or rob a bank. So many mods to do, so little money.
Mark
You might want to consider buying the whole bandit rolling chassis as it sits.
Then you could use the rear wheel assembly, or maybe the whole rear swingarm and wheel assembly.
You could also use the bandit front forks and 3.5" front wheel.
While the bandit forks aren't upside-down sexy, they're probably "cartridge" forks, and (IIRC) 43mm.
That would give you matching wheels, and from the pic shown good tires too. :-)
Arnie
I am thinking exactly what Arnie is thinking. Buy that entire Bandit rolling chassis and use the entire front and rear end..... Of course you should know in advance once you complete a conversion such as that you will forever be looking at the front and rear end of every bike and wondering what it would look like on your FJ....
:biggrin:
Arnie,
You are correct about the forks being 43mm..... I looked it up a couple of days ago. You still wouldn't get the chicks, through :sarcastic:
Joe
Quote from: Country Joe on April 12, 2015, 10:37:24 AM
Arnie,
You are correct about the forks being 43mm..... I looked it up a couple of days ago. You still wouldn't get the chicks, through :sarcastic:
Joe
Hmmmm, IF the forks are 43mm, then you can either mill the FJ triples 1mm larger to accomodate them OR see if you can fit the Suzuki steering stem to the FJ and not only get stronger and better controlled forks, but also be able to fit your choice of 'standard' bars.
As for getting the girls....
I've never relied on forks to determine my desirability :-)
Some who do need that attractant say that upside downs are the way to go.
My wife definitely prefers the FJ to my other bike which does have upside down forks.
Quote from: Arnie on April 13, 2015, 09:37:43 AM
Quote from: Country Joe on April 12, 2015, 10:37:24 AM
Arnie,
You are correct about the forks being 43mm..... I looked it up a couple of days ago. You still wouldn't get the chicks, through :sarcastic:
Joe
Hmmmm, IF the forks are 43mm, then you can either mill the FJ triples 1mm larger to accomodate them OR see if you can fit the Suzuki steering stem to the FJ and not only get stronger and better controlled forks, but also be able to fit your choice of 'standard' bars.
As for getting the girls....
I've never relied on forks to determine my desirability :-)
Some who do need that attractant say that upside downs are the way to go.
My wife definitely prefers the FJ to my other bike which does have upside down forks.
Arnie,
I figure I'm too far gone for USD forks to make me desirable, at least my wife still keeps me around.
Joe
I'm not in a financial position to buy the whole deal. I've got 3 projects on the burners and I have to budget my cash outlay. I am building a 1966 Plymouth Fury and a 1971 Dodge Sweptline pickup AND my FJ. I have to prioritize, which is why I didn't pull the trigger on the 300 dollar GSXR real wheel I found.
Quote from: Arnie on April 13, 2015, 09:37:43 AM
Quote from: Country Joe on April 12, 2015, 10:37:24 AM
Arnie,
You are correct about the forks being 43mm..... I looked it up a couple of days ago. You still wouldn't get the chicks, through :sarcastic:
Joe
Hmmmm, IF the forks are 43mm, then you can either mill the FJ triples 1mm larger to accomodate them OR see if you can fit the Suzuki steering stem to the FJ and not only get stronger and better controlled forks, but also be able to fit your choice of 'standard' bars.
As for getting the girls....
I've never relied on forks to determine my desirability :-)
Some who do need that attractant say that upside downs are the way to go.
My wife definitely prefers the FJ to my other bike which does have upside down forks.
You would have to check the distance between the forks and the offset for them to work in the FJ triples.
That's where the early FZ1 cartridge forks work so easily...... offset and distance is the same as the FJ...... you just have to bore the top, bottom and handlebars to 43mm and its all bolt on.
Harvy
Harvy said,
"You would have to check the distance between the forks and the offset for them to work in the FJ triples.
That's where the early FZ1 cartridge forks work so easily...... offset and distance is the same as the FJ...... you just have to bore the top, bottom and handlebars to 43mm and its all bolt on."
First and most important is that the Bandit parts are available. FZ1 ? Dunno.
Yes, agree to both your points. But it is likely that the separation between the fork tubes is very similar if not the same as that of the FJ. I would be surprised if any likely minor discrepancy couldn't be adjusted for when the FJ triples were bored to 43mm.
I think the better option would be to swap the whole Bandit fork assembly including triples into the FJ. You might have to get the steering stem changed from the FJ to the Bandit, but it might just be same length and diameter.
And you get the bonus of a tubular handlebar mount so you can pick your height and bend.
Also, the Bandit wheel has a speedo drive. Wonder if its the same ratio as that on the FJ.
Remember that motorcycle manufacturers buy assemblies from only a very few OEM suppliers.
There's much more commonality of parts than most people realize (especially within the Japanese bikes)
As always, measure twice - cut once. :yes:
Back to the subject at hand.
Will a 1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200 rear wheel fit on my 1990 FJ1200?
The short answer is yes it will.
The long answer is; not without some work.
The rear sprocket is bigger than the FJ so I will have to either swap it or lengthen my chain.
I will have to modify the caliper brace or I will have to fabricate a new one. If you were so inclined you could make the stock caliper and brace work with some cutting and welding of the stock brace.
I will have to purchase a longer rear brake hose.
The guy that I got the parts from did not include the brake caliper mount bracket so I now need to find one.
I will need a minimum of 2 4mm washers/spacers.
Otherwise this is a relatively simple swap that as proven to be cheaper than GSXR parts.
Once I gather the necessary parts to complete the swap I will document it with some pictures.
Very cool Joe. Yes, please take pictures for us. Very much appreciated.
Hi.
That is good news :good2: . Bandits beware. How does the chain look for clearance (I know you need to lengthen it) I am looking forward to the comlete "How Too" write up with lots of informative pics (some of us don't read too good)
Mark
Joe,
None of that "work" you describe is major, and certainly not insurmountable.
You will (almost certainly) want to replace the rear sprocket with one in the range of 38-42 teeth.
If you do this your OEM FJ chain will be of sufficient length to work,
HOWEVER you may want to take this opportunity to replace the chain and both sprockets.
Consider yourself lucky to be successful in making this swap so easily and cheaply.
I'll also thank you in advance for letting others know that using this wheel works.
Arnie (the guy who first documented using the GSXR wheel :-)
Quote from: ANGRYJOE on April 16, 2015, 10:43:43 PM
Back to the subject at hand.
Will a 1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200 rear wheel fit on my 1990 FJ1200?
The short answer is yes it will.
The long answer is; not without some work.
The rear sprocket is bigger than the FJ so I will have to either swap it or lengthen my chain.
I will have to modify the caliper brace or I will have to fabricate a new one. If you were so inclined you could make the stock caliper and brace work with some cutting and welding of the stock brace.
I will have to purchase a longer rear brake hose.
The guy that I got the parts from did not include the brake caliper mount bracket so I now need to find one.
I will need a minimum of 2 4mm washers/spacers.
Otherwise this is a relatively simple swap that as proven to be cheaper than GSXR parts.
Once I gather the necessary parts to complete the swap I will document it with some pictures.
Quote from: Harvy on April 13, 2015, 10:20:43 PM
Quote from: Arnie on April 13, 2015, 09:37:43 AM
Quote from: Country Joe on April 12, 2015, 10:37:24 AM
Arnie,
You are correct about the forks being 43mm..... I looked it up a couple of days ago. You still wouldn't get the chicks, through :sarcastic:
Joe
Hmmmm, IF the forks are 43mm, then you can either mill the FJ triples 1mm larger to accomodate them OR see if you can fit the Suzuki steering stem to the FJ and not only get stronger and better controlled forks, but also be able to fit your choice of 'standard' bars.
As for getting the girls....
I've never relied on forks to determine my desirability :-)
Some who do need that attractant say that upside downs are the way to go.
My wife definitely prefers the FJ to my other bike which does have upside down forks.
You would have to check the distance between the forks and the offset for them to work in the FJ triples.
That's where the early FZ1 cartridge forks work so easily...... offset and distance is the same as the FJ...... you just have to bore the top, bottom and handlebars to 43mm and its all bolt on.
Harvy
I think the whole idea of milling the triples is not the way to go. I like the idea of using the triple clamps that were designed for use with the forks. Almost all of the more modern bikes use a stem at the center of their triple clamp that is larger diameter and longer than our FJ units. So the FJ stock stem needs to be fatter to press fit into a newer lower triple clamp and longer because more modern triple clamps are thicker. The FJ stem is steel and is hollow and it readily accepts a press in extension that can then be turned down to the proper diameter for the newer lower triple. Welding the extension to the stock stem before trimming it is the way to go. ALL BALLS makes conversion easy - you can tell them what bike the front end came off of and what bike its going on to and they will send you bearings that fit.
Putting the FJ steering stem into any more modern triple clamp and fork set up means you get better parts on your bike vs. the alternative of using your stock triples with material removed which is inherently weaker...
All that said - cash is king. Do what you gotta do to get the better wheels on your bike Joe. You will love them!
Why do most people go to Suzuki parts for the FJ ? With the vast range of Yamaha motorcycles why not stick with Yamaha parts ... I don't understand. Out of curiosity I will cross reference some rear wheel bearings to see what could be swapped out with ease or if you have use of a lathe you can make top hat style spacers to convert bearings for lets say 28mm shaft (R1) down to 20mm
Quote from: ANGRYJOE on April 16, 2015, 10:43:43 PM
I will have to modify the caliper brace or I will have to fabricate a new one. If you were so inclined you could make the stock caliper and brace work with some cutting and welding of the stock brace.
I will have to purchase a longer rear brake hose.
OK, can someone explain to me how the brace works on the footpeg mount when the swing arm is moving up and down. When I nip the axle up, the caliper it locked into postion.
Noel
Noel,
If you don't have a "brake arm" or have the caliper or hanger keyed to the swingarm, then the hanger and caliper will rotate about the axle. Anchoring the brake arm to the swingarm, the footpeg bolt, or to a frame cross member will restrict this rotation.
Quote from: Arnie on April 17, 2015, 09:46:57 AM
Noel,
If you don't have a "brake arm" or have the caliper or hanger keyed to the swingarm, then the hanger and caliper will rotate about the axle. Anchoring the brake arm to the swingarm, the footpeg bolt, or to a frame cross member will restrict this rotation.
That's my very point. If the brake arm is fixed to the frame, as opposed to the swing arm which moves in an arc around the frame, The caliper must rotate as the arm moves up and down.
I've only had 2.5 hours sleep in the last 2 days, perhaps my brain is addled, but that's how I see it.
My point is, mounting the caliper stay to the swing arm vs the frame. If it's mounted to the arm, it all moves as one. If the stay is mounted to the frame, the caliper has to rotate.
Noel
I agree with Noel...
With the different pivot points (brake arm vs swing arm) the caliper will move back and forth as the swing arm pivots up and down.
Is it a problem? The folks who have the brake arm anchored to the frame report no quirks.
Although it is best to have the brake arm anchored to the leg of the swing arm to negate the movement of the caliper when the rear suspension loads and unloads..
I mounted the rear brake stay to the underside of the swing arm with a custom bracket when I did my GSXR rear wheel swap. I did not want to consider what happens if connected to the fixed frame, under hard braking and having the rear wheel navigating rough road. But with the connection points being as close as they are and the rear braking providing 20% or less of braking effect, I am guessing this is a 98% fix. If you are not gonna track the bike or ride it like you stole it, the rear passenger should work well.
Swing arm mount is best for the brake stay . You do not want it moving around on the axle and swingarm.
I have to add that I have never been 100% happy with the brake arm bolted to the footpeg bolt, it can't be done up super tight as that is actually a pivot point now for said brake arm. Fixing the brake arm to the swingarm is on my to do list, :good2:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 17, 2015, 10:44:36 AM
I agree with Noel...
With the different pivot points (brake arm vs swing arm) the caliper will move back and forth as the swing arm pivots up and down.
Is it a problem? The folks who have the brake arm anchored to the frame report no quirks.
Although it is best to have the brake arm anchored to the leg of the swing arm to negate the movement of the caliper when the rear suspension loads and unloads..
What I don't understand is, on my bike (and I amagine others ) the caliper is wedged between the spacer and the swing arm and when the axle is tightened, it
can't move, as we all agree it must do as the swing arm rises and falls if the stay is attached to the frame.
????
Noel
Actually the caliper isn't wedged to anything, it just bolted to the caliper arm. The lower point of the caliper arm is squeezed between the wheel and swing arm...it acts as a spacer.
Yes, the caliper arm is squeezed when the axle nut is torqued but that force is not enough to resist rotation when the caliper squeezes the rotor. That's why the brake torque arm (aka stay arm) is needed.
Rest assured if your torque arm comes off and you apply the back brake, the force from the rotor on that cantilevered caliper arm will spin that bad boy. Exciting things will happen.
Some bikes don't need a torque arm. They have a dovetail or key arrangement where the caliper arm is connected to the leg of the swing arm and the resistance to rotation happens thru that dovetail/key connection.
Some GSX-R rear calipers are designed to have the stay attached to the frame. The torque arm has a bearing which allows the caliper to move freely about the axis of the axle. It is designed to rotate. As the bike moves through the suspension, the position of the caliper changes .All the Yamahas I own have the stay attached to the swing arm. When the axle is tight, the caliper does not move about the axis. However, as Pat says, if you apply the brakes it will rotate. Thus the need for a stay to prevent rotation. The Yamaha application does not allow movement at any time.
Quote from: ribbert on April 17, 2015, 06:49:07 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 17, 2015, 10:44:36 AM
I agree with Noel...
With the different pivot points (brake arm vs swing arm) the caliper will move back and forth as the swing arm pivots up and down.
Is it a problem? The folks who have the brake arm anchored to the frame report no quirks.
Although it is best to have the brake arm anchored to the leg of the swing arm to negate the movement of the caliper when the rear suspension loads and unloads..
What I don't understand is, on my bike (and I amagine others ) the caliper is wedged between the spacer and the swing arm and when the axle is tightened, it can't move, as we all agree it must do as the swing arm rises and falls if the stay is attached to the frame.
????
Noel
Haaaha....I find chicken trolling better than prawns, esp if they`re on the nose, but a thick worm hooks them best. :drinks:
Awwww geeze, I think I've been had.....
Quote from: ribbert on April 17, 2015, 09:58:18 AM
Quote from: Arnie on April 17, 2015, 09:46:57 AM
Noel,
If you don't have a "brake arm" or have the caliper or hanger keyed to the swingarm, then the hanger and caliper will rotate about the axle. Anchoring the brake arm to the swingarm, the footpeg bolt, or to a frame cross member will restrict this rotation.
That's my very point. If the brake arm is fixed to the frame, as opposed to the swing arm which moves in an arc around the frame, The caliper must rotate as the arm moves up and down.
I've only had 2.5 hours sleep in the last 2 days, perhaps my brain is addled, but that's how I see it.
My point is, mounting the caliper stay to the swing arm vs the frame. If it's mounted to the arm, it all moves as one. If the stay is mounted to the frame, the caliper has to rotate.
Noel
Noel, When everything is tightened up and the torque arm is disconnected, the caliper will rotate easily because there's a bush on the hanger where the axle goes through, also on the torque arm where it connects to the frame there's a rotating ball.
(http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a586/the4ts/DSC_0901_zpsli5gv1uj.jpg)
and again on the caliper there's a bush where the other end of the torque arm connects.
(http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a586/the4ts/DSC_0902_zpsp3auwo1r.jpg)
So when all connected and tightened, everything is free to move to compensate for suspension travel. You could probably mount the torque arm to the swing arm somewhere if you wanted to weld a mount on it, but the arm is pretty long so you might have to shorten it to fit. As it is standard, it lines up well with the bottom foot peg bolt, so that seems to be the easy way out and why people mount it there. I just put a longer bolt in, spaced it out a bit from the frame so it doesn't hit, and lock tighted the nut on. Seems to work ok for now, but maybe in the future I'll look at mounting it different.
Tony.
Quote from: Bones on April 18, 2015, 01:36:07 AM
Noel, When everything is tightened up and the torque arm is disconnected, the caliper will rotate easily because there's a bush on the hanger where the axle goes through, also on the torque arm where it connects to the frame there's a rotating ball.
(http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a586/the4ts/DSC_0901_zpsli5gv1uj.jpg)
and again on the caliper there's a bush where the other end of the torque arm connects.
(http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a586/the4ts/DSC_0902_zpsp3auwo1r.jpg)
So when all connected and tightened, everything is free to move to compensate for suspension travel. You could probably mount the torque arm to the swing arm somewhere if you wanted to weld a mount on it, but the arm is pretty long so you might have to shorten it to fit. As it is standard, it lines up well with the bottom foot peg bolt, so that seems to be the easy way out and why people mount it there. I just put a longer bolt in, spaced it out a bit from the frame so it doesn't hit, and lock tighted the nut on. Seems to work ok for now, but maybe in the future I'll look at mounting it different.
Tony.
Thank God, at last, the answer I was looking for, without a lesson on terminology or the fact that applying enough force to anything will move it whether it's meant to or not.
Thanks Tony, that is exactly the answer I was looking for. I have an FZR600R wheel and brakes and the caliper clamps firmly between the hub and the swing arm. A brake stay bolted to the frame would not work with this arrangement but you have clearly shown how it works with the Suzuki bits.
You have provided the information I needed, thankyou.
Noel
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 18, 2015, 12:26:58 AM
Awwww geeze, I think I've been had.....
No, not at all Pat. It was a legitimate question for the reasons just mentioned in the previous post.
The General, being privy to certain information, is naturally suspicious of any questions I post.
Noel
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 17, 2015, 07:11:57 PM
Actually the caliper isn't wedged to anything, it just bolted to the caliper arm. The lower point of the caliper arm is squeezed between the wheel and swing arm.
Pat, this effort gives you an unassailable lead in "Pedant of the Month" :biggrin:
BTW, it's never referred to as the "arm"
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on April 18, 2015, 06:31:08 AM
...I have an FZR600R wheel and brakes and the caliper clamps firmly between the hub and the swing arm....
"Firmly" eh? It just surprised me that you think so....just caught me off guard.
Terminology aside, it is interesting that Yamaha refers to the caliper stay arm as a "tension bar" when actually it works under compression.
Quote from: axiom-r on April 17, 2015, 01:11:46 AM
Quote from: Harvy on April 13, 2015, 10:20:43 PM
Quote from: Arnie on April 13, 2015, 09:37:43 AM
Quote from: Country Joe on April 12, 2015, 10:37:24 AM
Arnie,
You are correct about the forks being 43mm..... I looked it up a couple of days ago. You still wouldn't get the chicks, through :sarcastic:
Joe
Hmmmm, IF the forks are 43mm, then you can either mill the FJ triples 1mm larger to accomodate them OR see if you can fit the Suzuki steering stem to the FJ and not only get stronger and better controlled forks, but also be able to fit your choice of 'standard' bars.
As for getting the girls....
I've never relied on forks to determine my desirability :-)
Some who do need that attractant say that upside downs are the way to go.
My wife definitely prefers the FJ to my other bike which does have upside down forks.
You would have to check the distance between the forks and the offset for them to work in the FJ triples.
That's where the early FZ1 cartridge forks work so easily...... offset and distance is the same as the FJ...... you just have to bore the top, bottom and handlebars to 43mm and its all bolt on.
Harvy
I think the whole idea of milling the triples is not the way to go. I like the idea of using the triple clamps that were designed for use with the forks. Almost all of the more modern bikes use a stem at the center of their triple clamp that is larger diameter and longer than our FJ units. So the FJ stock stem needs to be fatter to press fit into a newer lower triple clamp and longer because more modern triple clamps are thicker. The FJ stem is steel and is hollow and it readily accepts a press in extension that can then be turned down to the proper diameter for the newer lower triple. Welding the extension to the stock stem before trimming it is the way to go. ALL BALLS makes conversion easy - you can tell them what bike the front end came off of and what bike its going on to and they will send you bearings that fit.
Putting the FJ steering stem into any more modern triple clamp and fork set up means you get better parts on your bike vs. the alternative of using your stock triples with material removed which is inherently weaker...
All that said - cash is king. Do what you gotta do to get the better wheels on your bike Joe. You will love them!
Just out of interest, I put a complete 99 model R6 43mm front end on my 92 FJ12. The R6 stem is the same diameter as the FJ but alloy, as compared to FJ steel item and is shorter. Same bottom stem bearing but R6 top bearing is smaller.
I had to swap FJ stem into R6 lower triples (pressed in with circlips) and machine a top hat bush to fit under the top triple. I also drilled and threaded a 6mm screw through the lower clamp into the stem to prevent any turning of the stem.
The worst part of the conversion ? fitting the ignition switch onto the R6 top clamp.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 18, 2015, 11:33:15 AM
Quote from: ribbert on April 18, 2015, 06:31:08 AM
...I have an FZR600R wheel and brakes and the caliper clamps firmly between the hub and the swing arm....
"Firmly" eh? It just surprised me that you think so....just caught me off guard.
Terminology aside, it is interesting that Yamaha refers to the caliper stay arm as a "tension bar" when actually it works under compression.
Yes, firmly.
The terminology Yamaha uses may be interesting but it's not surprising. I have not read the FJ manual but I imagine it is much the same as most others, odd terms, making simple jobs difficult, errors and terrible photos.
Noel
Personally if it was me I would have got the whole parts bike an fired up 're torches and welder. :crazy: