Hello and a happy Easter, looking to get quick answer's. GSXR rear wheel caliper mounting got the rear wheel all tight and the mount is freewheel is that right or wrong, and the 4mm washer goes on right only or both sides the fj rear left side space is thinner then the one I have on, but I did not check to see if it would fit the seal; if I go with the thinner spacer I may be able to go with 4mm washer on both sides, I am thinking with the washer being larger circumference that will be the way to go. Front forks are on with Race tech set up and front wheel FZR 3.5 wide, and with the F4I rear shock this is a think I need to ask. Rear shock both setting are at 1 1/2 turns out. I am 160lbs spring load is at the 3ed setting.
Quote from: gonzajr on April 05, 2015, 05:26:47 PM
Hello and a happy Easter, looking to get quick answer's. GSXR rear wheel caliper mounting got the rear wheel all tight and the mount is freewheel is that right or wrong, and the 4mm washer goes on right only or both sides the fj rear left side space is thinner then the one I have on, but I did not check to see if it would fit the seal; if I go with the thinner spacer I may be able to go with 4mm washer on both sides, I am thinking with the washer being larger circumference that will be the way to go. Front forks are on with Race tech set up and front wheel FZR 3.5 wide, and with the F4I rear shock this is a think I need to ask. Rear shock both setting are at 1 1/2 turns out. I am 160lbs spring load is at the 3ed setting.
Not sure what that means, but the caliper will move around the axle until you secure it with the brake arm, that must be attached either at the footpeg bolt inside the fender well or to a new tab that must be welded to the swingarm on the upposite side (underside) of the factory one. I simply used a sawzall and cut the factory one off and re-welded it to the underside.
Quote from: ZOA NOM on April 05, 2015, 05:41:32 PM
Not sure what that means, but the caliper will move around the axle until you secure it with the brake arm, that must be attached either at the footpeg bolt inside the fender well or to a new tab that must be welded to the swingarm on the upposite side (underside) of the factory one. I simply used a sawzall and cut the factory one off and re-welded it to the underside.
Welding is not required if you don't have the means or facility/equipment. I used Riv-Nuts and fabbed up a SST bracket.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/104_05_04_15_6_45_21_0.jpeg)
The actual bracket was drilled to fit the bolt pattern.
Riv-Nuts, they are already in the aluminum swing arms...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/medium_104_05_04_15_6_45_24_1.jpeg)
Not these, I added them for to mount this bracket....
Quote from: ZOA NOM on April 05, 2015, 05:41:32 PM
Quote from: gonzajr on April 05, 2015, 05:26:47 PM
Hello and a happy Easter, looking to get quick answer's. GSXR rear wheel caliper mounting got the rear wheel all tight and the mount is freewheel is that right or wrong, and the 4mm washer goes on right only or both sides the fj rear left side space is thinner then the one I have on, but I did not check to see if it would fit the seal; if I go with the thinner spacer I may be able to go with 4mm washer on both sides, I am thinking with the washer being larger circumference that will be the way to go. Front forks are on with Race tech set up and front wheel FZR 3.5 wide, and with the F4I rear shock this is a think I need to ask. Rear shock both setting are at 1 1/2 turns out. I am 160lbs spring load is at the 3ed setting.
Not sure what that means, but the caliper will move around the axle until you secure it with the brake arm, that must be attached either at the footpeg bolt inside the fender well or to a new tab that must be welded to the swingarm on the upposite side (underside) of the factory one. I simply used a sawzall and cut the factory one off and re-welded it to the underside.
Hello, the best and easy way for me was the foot peg bolt and thanks on the caliper mount free movement. I will need to remove the wheel and add 3mm to the spacer between the wheel and the sprockets hub the wheel is not centered the wheel is more to the right side and if I get it to the left the chain makes contact with the tire 180-55-17 wheel Shinko tire. I didn't buy the best tire I know. thanks
The GSXR mod is a good one, and it is a 4mm washer each side of the wheel to make things centred. Have a look at he link below and I've got a sort of step by step photo build of when I did mine. With a Dunlop 180/55 tyre, it just clears the chain, and I did have to cut a notch in the plastic chain guard where the tyre rubbed on it.
Hi,
you can use the GSXR stock brake arm and use the bolt for the foot peg. It is shown on the mod. Here is the link showing all the parts necessary to do the job with pictures.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3380.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3380.0)
Mark
Quote from: gonzajr on April 05, 2015, 11:28:52 PM
Quote from: ZOA NOM on April 05, 2015, 05:41:32 PM
Quote from: gonzajr on April 05, 2015, 05:26:47 PM
Hello and a happy Easter, looking to get quick answer's. GSXR rear wheel caliper mounting got the rear wheel all tight and the mount is freewheel is that right or wrong, and the 4mm washer goes on right only or both sides the fj rear left side space is thinner then the one I have on, but I did not check to see if it would fit the seal; if I go with the thinner spacer I may be able to go with 4mm washer on both sides, I am thinking with the washer being larger circumference that will be the way to go. Front forks are on with Race tech set up and front wheel FZR 3.5 wide, and with the F4I rear shock this is a think I need to ask. Rear shock both setting are at 1 1/2 turns out. I am 160lbs spring load is at the 3ed setting.
Not sure what that means, but the caliper will move around the axle until you secure it with the brake arm, that must be attached either at the footpeg bolt inside the fender well or to a new tab that must be welded to the swingarm on the upposite side (underside) of the factory one. I simply used a sawzall and cut the factory one off and re-welded it to the underside.
Hello, the best and easy way for me was the foot peg bolt and thanks on the caliper mount free movement. I will need to remove the wheel and add 3mm to the spacer between the wheel and the sprockets hub the wheel is not centered the wheel is more to the right side and if I get it to the left the chain makes contact with the tire 180-55-17 wheel Shinko tire. I didn't buy the best tire I know. thanks
Not sure which sprocket you're using, but some of them are "dished" a little, and can be flipped for small clearance.
When properly aligned some 180 tires will rub the chain. My first 180s were Dunlop Q2s and based on seeing how much of the tire the chain machined off, I am guessing between 1/8" and 3/16" of interference. With the Continental Motions I run now, about 1/16" or more of clearance. Your issue may not be alignment if you are judging by the chain. Sounds like you need to run a string from the rear to to the front to make sure your rear is not offset from the front. Once that is sorted then you can sort any remaining issues.
FYI, when I replace the rear tire I use this to realign my chain/wheel. Quick and easy. The image is also a link to the Motion Pro web page.
(https://ff3d8e6495061f28a832-a7869bbdcfcea96a643a5d6aa79482f7.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/items/08-0048.jpg) (http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0048)
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 05, 2015, 07:47:47 PM
Riv-Nuts, they are already in the aluminum swing arms...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/medium_104_05_04_15_6_45_24_1.jpeg)
Not these, I added them for to mount this bracket....
What size bolt and riv-nuts You used Monkey? And what with swing arm endurance? those holes will not weakened material?
Quote from: MOTOMYSZOR on April 06, 2015, 02:26:39 PM
What size bolt and riv-nuts You used Monkey? And what with swing arm endurance? those holes will not weakened material?
M6 I believe, almost the same size as a 1/4-20 bolt. Drilling a small hole in the center of a box section has little impact on its strength. Just look at the holes Yamaha put in it.
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 06, 2015, 02:43:40 PM
Quote from: MOTOMYSZOR on April 06, 2015, 02:26:39 PM
What size bolt and riv-nuts You used Monkey? And what with swing arm endurance? those holes will not weakened material?
M6 I believe, almost the same size as a 1/4-20 bolt. Drilling a small hole in the center of a box section has little impact on its strength. Just look at the holes Yamaha put in it.
and think of the weight loss!
:good2: Yep, the Motion Pro aligners are cheap, easy to use and actually work. Well worth the tiny purchase price.
Quote from: X-Ray on April 06, 2015, 06:28:37 PM
:good2: Yep, the Motion Pro aligners are cheap, easy to use and actually work. Well worth the tiny purchase price.
+1 one that. They work great for chain alignment. I have eye balled mine to where I swear it is straight then clamped on the aligner and found my eye balls not to be so good. :lol: Inexpensive tool.
George