I'm almost home free no more oil leaking, the carbs are synced but cold full choke she will start right up and idle at 1100rpm,once warmed full choke runs at 3000 rpm half choke runs at 1300rpm and no choke won't idle at all only runs if you give it throttle.Just wondering if that's something any of you have seen before.
Don't worry about what rpm the engine runs at on full or 1/2 choke...you are only there for a moment.
Do worry about what your warm engine idle speed is....so try adjusting your warm idle speed to 1,000 rpm and see what happens.
When its warm it wont idle without the choke unless I'm turning the throttle.Im leaning towards fuel mixtures but I don't really know anything about carbs.
Turn the idle screw so it idles just over 1000 rpm after an hours ride.
Then go from there.
Do you know where to set the idle speed?
To be honest pat no I'm not sure at all lol.
Under the carbs, in the middle, between carbs #2 and #3 there is a knob, turn it to the right to raise the idle. (clockwise).
There is plenty of information in the Files section on carbs. Start here: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 18, 2015, 12:54:12 AM
Under the carbs, in the middle, between carbs #2 and #3 there is a knob, turn it to the right to raise the idle. (clockwise).
There is plenty of information in the Files section on carbs. Start here: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.0)
Crack the the throttle slightly (at the twist grip) to lift the screw off its seat. Makes it much easier to turn.
Noel
So I figured out the problem the inline filter(while it is a good size filter)was cutting off to much fuel.I only added it because I cleaned my gas tank to make sure there was no more varnish in there and they suggested adding an additional filter for a week or 2.So I took it off and now the bike runs without choke.The carbs while they appeared to be synced are slightly off so I just finished making an at home carb sync tool with 4 plastic bottles,30 feet of 3/16 inner diameter vinnal tubing,4 vacuum t's,a board to mount them to to hold them level and some zip ties.Gonna put a little water in each bottle hook the other ends to the vacuum ports and sync them up :) very excited almost done.
Quote from: EnrAgeD on March 20, 2015, 08:18:24 PM
So I figured out the problem the inline filter(while it is a good size filter)was cutting off to much fuel.I only added it because I cleaned my gas tank to make sure there was no more varnish in there and they suggested adding an additional filter for a week or 2.So I took it off and now the bike runs without choke.The carbs while they appeared to be synced are slightly off so I just finished making an at home carb sync tool with 4 plastic bottles,30 feet of 3/16 inner diameter vinnal tubing,4 vacuum t's,a board to mount them to to hold them level and some zip ties.Gonna put a little water in each bottle hook the other ends to the vacuum ports and sync them up :) very excited almost done.
Use 2 stroke oil, if it gets sucked in, no problem....
2 stroke, motor oil, ATF. Take your pick. I'd expect it all to work the same, and give you a nice blue haze WHEN it gets sucked up. But all better than water!
My 2ยข
not enough weight in water , the level on the tubes will dance around and be hard to read and will easily be pulled into engine if you rev it.
I prefer atf , easy to see and will not hang inside the tubes for a bad reading like the 2 stroke or motor oil.
Just my .02 as well.
Quote from: EnrAgeD on March 20, 2015, 08:18:24 PM
...... I just finished making an at home carb sync tool with 4 plastic bottles,30 feet of 3/16 inner diameter vinnal tubing,4 vacuum t's,a board to mount them to to hold them level and some zip ties.Gonna put a little water in each bottle hook the other ends to the vacuum ports and sync them up :) very excited almost done.
I agree with the ATF, it's easy to see, doesn't hang and is a good viscosity for that purpose.
You seem to be on the right track but I wonder about the four bottles? You are measuring the carbs against each other, not the atmosphere. You don't actually need a reservoir at all, just the tubes all connected at the bottom.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5591/14952433521_be5c0558b1_c.jpg) (https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14771062889_bca506d9c5_c.jpg)
Or it can just be two loops joined at the bottom like this.
My other suggestion would be to put restrictors in each tube to dampen the pulsing other the fluid will be dancing all over the place.
I used these short lengths of plastic rod with a small (4mm IIRC) hole drilled through the centre.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3727/12704320625_b199fe60d3_c.jpg)
The other thing is to make sure the hoses going onto the carby don't get soft from the heat and kink, which they will, and give you false readings.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5072/7175620716_18860ab1a1_c.jpg)
Hope this helps.
Noel
In the second photo above (the one on the painted white board) I use 2 stroke oil and up at the top end you see 2 black restrictors. They are not optional... They are out of a cheap "Brake Bleed kit" http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man-brake-bleeder-kit-37201.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man-brake-bleeder-kit-37201.html). Available at most any Auto parts store. The restrictors are the key to a good system. I glued those in place. They jamb into the tubes tight when new but in a year or so the tubes will swell slightly.
George