Guys,
Does anyone know the thread size of the front disc bolts?
I did a search and couldn't find anything.
Thanks,
Larry
Larry, if I'm reading the service manual correctly, Brake disc bolt:
-thread size M8x1.25
chris
RPM has them.... http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BrakeRotorBolt (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BrakeRotorBolt)
Fred
thanks guys
Ace Hardware has some nice stainless button head M8x1.25 bolts which are lighter and stronger that the oem soft bolts.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 06, 2015, 11:34:38 AM
Ace Hardware has some nice stainless button head M8x1.25 bolts which are lighter and stronger that the oem soft bolts.
No pre-applied thread locker?
Quote from: FJ1100mjk on February 06, 2015, 12:19:21 PM
No pre-applied thread locker?
I recommend medium strength thread lock (Blue), do not use the Red stuff. It needs a lot of heat to soften for removal.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 06, 2015, 01:11:35 PM
I recommend medium strength thread lock (Blue), do not use the Red stuff. It needs a lot of heat to soften for removal.
If going this route, it could be further recommended to spray brake cleaner (or similar) into the internal threads of the screws' mating holes, then blow them out/dry with compressed air, to rid them of gunk, corrosion dust, etc, and clean off the screws' threads prior to application of the threadlocker. And since you are in a sense "lubricating" the fastener with the threadlocker, drop the applied torque to the minimum recommended torque listed in Factory Service Manual.
I was just looking the other day at some nice Titanium rotor bolts on fleabay, nice gold and blue coloured ones. But at around $200.00, lol, no.
Quote from: X-Ray on February 06, 2015, 05:56:29 PMI was just looking the other day at some nice Titanium rotor bolts on fleabay, nice gold and blue coloured ones. But at around $200.00, lol, no.
X-Ray,
Maybe just as well, there. Aluminum and titanium do not work and play well together. :biggrin:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/galvanic.htm (http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/galvanic.htm)
"Generally, the closer one metal is to another in the series, the more compatible they will be, i.e., the galvanic effects will be minimal. Conversely, the farther one metal is from another, the greater the corrosion will be." Keep a copy of the chart for reference. Aluminum and titanium are a bad pair. These metals would corrode very quickly, where they are touching.
Cheers,
Red
Wow, the things you learn, nice info thanks :good2:
Quote from: red on February 06, 2015, 06:51:45 PM
Quote from: X-Ray on February 06, 2015, 05:56:29 PMI was just looking the other day at some nice Titanium rotor bolts on fleabay, nice gold and blue coloured ones. But at around $200.00, lol, no.
X-Ray,
Maybe just as well, there. Aluminum and titanium do not work and play well together. :biggrin:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/galvanic.htm (http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/galvanic.htm)
"Generally, the closer one metal is to another in the series, the more compatible they will be, i.e., the galvanic effects will be minimal. Conversely, the farther one metal is from another, the greater the corrosion will be." Keep a copy of the chart for reference. Aluminum and titanium are a bad pair. These metals would corrode very quickly, where they are touching.
Cheers,
Red
Since they are colored, it is most likely from a finish or plating process. If the process is anything like Anodizing, the finish will not have a galvanic response to steel. Just an FYI on this topic.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 07, 2015, 12:49:54 AM
Quote from: red on February 06, 2015, 06:51:45 PM
Quote from: X-Ray on February 06, 2015, 05:56:29 PMI was just looking the other day at some nice Titanium rotor bolts on fleabay, nice gold and blue coloured ones. But at around $200.00, lol, no.
X-Ray,
Maybe just as well, there. Aluminum and titanium do not work and play well together. :biggrin:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/galvanic.htm (http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/galvanic.htm)
"Generally, the closer one metal is to another in the series, the more compatible they will be, i.e., the galvanic effects will be minimal. Conversely, the farther one metal is from another, the greater the corrosion will be." Keep a copy of the chart for reference. Aluminum and titanium are a bad pair. These metals would corrode very quickly, where they are touching. Cheers,
Red
Since they are colored, it is most likely from a finish or plating process. If the process is anything like Anodizing, the finish will not have a galvanic response to steel. Just an FYI on this topic.
FJmonkey,
Working in electronics repair, some components are insulated with hard anodized aluminum plates, to insulate them and still pull out excess heat. in one smooth move. Scratch the anodizing, though, and you have a dead short there, instead of an insulator. I don't think you could install and torque an anodized bolt without damaging the coating. Since all corrosion is an electrical process, just expect trouble, there. Titanium bolts are strong initially, but they are intended for racing (and frequent replacement), not for everyday prolonged uses. The correct anti-seize compounds (depending on the metals being used) can help a lot here. The right anti-seize compound will contain fine particles of a metal located somewhere between the two bad actors: aluminum [bronze] titanium.
Cheers,
Red
This is an interesting thread, as we've been working with electrolysis at the shop to clean fuel tanks. I did some web research, and am experimenting with cleaning rims and various parts, too.
Pretty cool, as you let the electricity do the work. The iron anode is consumed, and what remains of the rust, grease and paint just falls away.
Copper gives some really pretty blue deposits, and aluminum can create a white foam.
Steve