Hey, gents.
I was thinking of travelling 3,000 miles from San Diego to Seattle after I complete this 30k tuneup. A few questions:
• Do i need to take any special precautions while planning a long ride like this?
• How far/long can I ride my FJ before i need to give the machine a break
• How much oil should i carry
• What should I watch for, mechanically, during the ride?
• Whats the optimal travelling-speed for an endurance trip? I notice the speedometer reds @ 55, is it best to keep at or below that speed when covering long distances?
Quote from: theLeopard on January 14, 2015, 05:21:45 AM
Hey, gents.
I was thinking of travelling 3,000 miles from San Diego to Seattle after I complete this 30k tuneup. A few questions:
1. Do i need to take any special precautions while planning a long ride like this?
2. How far/long can I ride my FJ before i need to give the machine a break
3. How much oil should i carry
4. What should I watch for, mechanically, during the ride?
5. Whats the optimal travelling-speed for an endurance trip? I notice the speedometer reds @ 55, is it best to keep at or below that speed when covering long distances?
1. Yes, but you need to be more specific as to what your concerns are. As your questione is posed, it's too general to answer.
2. Either until or after the low fuel level light comes on. Or, until you need a break yourself. From personal experience, it depends a lot on the individual.
3. How much are you burning through normally? That's a good start. If you're bike doesn't have a history of burning through it very fast, you can always buy it if/when on the road.
4. Chain tension and lubing it, and checking tire pressures, for starters. Again, this list could be lengthy from others' feedback.
5. A reasonable, safe speed, as conditions (and presence of law enforcement) dictate is a good reference.
**** I am absolutely positive others will chime in on the above, as there are a number of others on this forum who have taken on distances that you're about to take. Multiple times too.*****
Quote from: theLeopard on January 14, 2015, 05:21:45 AM
Hey, gents.
I was thinking of travelling 3,000 miles from San Diego to Seattle after I complete this 30k tuneup. A few questions:
• Do i need to take any special precautions while planning a long ride like this?
• How far/long can I ride my FJ before i need to give the machine a break
• How much oil should i carry
• What should I watch for, mechanically, during the ride?
• Whats the optimal travelling-speed for an endurance trip? I notice the speedometer reds @ 55, is it best to keep at or below that speed when covering long distances?
This is all my opinion.
On distance rides, I typically will ride up to 650 miles for a day, much more than that I start to get fatigued and my concentration starts to diminish.
1. Precautions: Stop at least every 100 miles. Give your body and mind a 10-15 minute rest. Keep hydrated, no Coffee, soft drinks, or energy drinks. Water is the way to go.
2. A well maintained FJ is easily capable of running non stop for a full tank of fuel. Typically 180-250 miles (will depend on many factors to determine MPG).
3. The amount of oil that you should carry is subjective to how much
Your FJ consumes. I carry 2 quarts with me as a precaution, and check my oil level at every fuel stop
4. A well maintained FJ should cover 3000 miles with no problems. I am going to guess this is a trip there and back ??? If so, I would not even start without a new set of tires. As a precaution, I would take a spare fuel pump along. A supplamented tool kit is also a good idea. Cycle Gear sells an awesome kit made by Stockton. Practice doing routine maintenance at home with
your travel tool kit. It will let you know what it would be like to make repairs on the side of the road or a Hotel parking lot.
5. If you will be slabbing it, (I-5) all the way. The FJ will cruise at 70-90 mph all day long and not even blink. I would suggest an investment in a touring windscreen. Take in to account your own height. If the OEM screen works great for you at 70-80 mph leave well enough alone. For the long distance rides I prefer the air flow to hit the upper part of my helmet, (I am 5' 7" tall) instead of hitting me in the upper chest. Being short, I have great options with windscreens.
Fred
Which way are you going? It is only 1300 or so miles from San Diego to Seattle................
**You will need a break long before your FJ does. No need to give the machine a rest. Just check the oil/tires/brakes/chain during your fuel stops, mount-up and go.....
**You will probably want to walk around and stretch your legs for 15 or 20 minutes during your fuel stops. Maybe do some light stretching excercises.
**Bring plenty of water with you. The wind rushing over you, over long distances will dry you out.
**Plan on riding in the rain at some point (bring appropriate rain protection with you, and the proper state of mind) The cold and Fog are something you should plan for. Make sure you have warm enough gloves and riding gear.
**Long distance touring is very enjoyable, but it's not for everybody. Make sure you can stand being on the motorcycle for many hours/days at a time.
Pick a day that you have nothing planned. get all your gear on, and plan a whole-day ride around your area (Southern California? LA?) to see if you can handle riding for that long. This will also help your gauge your oil usage, and any issues that may pop up while you are close to home. It also will help you keep in your mind how far you might plan to travel each day to get there and back.
**Most anything that needs attention or fixing on the FJ can be done with the little tool-kit that came with the bike. If you do not have one, put one together.
Make sure you are comfortable with basic diagnostic/repair techniques while out on the highway (you'll be on your own unless you travel with a companion)
**Keep your fingers out of the chain!**
**Have someone help you give your machine a good maintenence once-over. Mark(Monkey) will have an excellent understanding of what it takes to get the bike ready for a long distance tour.
**Plan to install new tires before you go. A round-trip to Seattle and back from San Diego will be pretty close to the max mileage most owners are getting out of the rear tire at least. Make sure that cost it included in your trip budget.
**Ride your ability level..........No stunting or stupid maneuvers during your trip!.......Keeping the right frame of mind, and using a good amount of common sense will get you there and back home safely. Excessive speed will get you a ticket, and added cost that you might not be able to afford to work into your trip budget.......Ride with the flow of traffic. Give other vehicles plenty of room (they do unpredictable things). Ride at whatever speed you feel most comfortable with. The FJ will handle whatever speed you want to ride at, for hours on end!
**If you start to feel drowsy the least bit, pull off the road and get off the bike..............Get some water, or maybe take a short nap on a picnic table bench at a rest area.....Riding while feeling sleepy will get you killed!
**Enjoy the journey! There's lots of amazing scenery out there to be explored, especially up the west coast! :drinks:
LOL, Fred we were posting at the same time..................Have a bunch of the same pointers. :drinks:
Quote from: theLeopard on January 14, 2015, 05:21:45 AM
I was thinking of traveling 3,000 miles from San Diego to Seattle...
Here's some pointers from a group that specializes in what you're planning:
Iron Butt Association's "Archive of Wisdom" (AOW) http://www.ironbutt.com/tech/aowprintout.cfm (http://www.ironbutt.com/tech/aowprintout.cfm)
(http://www.ironbutt.com/images/ibalogo2.gif)
Steve
How soon are you planning this trip? Have you done long trips on a bike before? Doing shorter trips before long trips helps sort out some of these questions. You get a better feel for the bike and yourself. You are still new to your current bike, some saddle time is important in my opinion. Do you have good riding gear, I have ridden with and without, with is much more comfortable. Leather is my choice with layers under to deal with different temperatures. But textiles are becoming a good alternative with less cost. My jacket is textile. You have a Cycle Gear near you, they have some decent gear under their "Built" brand. It is also good to make shorter runs with experienced riders, you tend to learn things about distance riding faster and the easy way. What kind of luggage do you have? Camping along the way, stops at friends/family, hotel? Do you have rain gear, not having it will means it will rain on you.
Things to think about...
All good points from very experienced riders. One of the best was mentioned, take some shorter trips. Take at least one over nighter somewhere. Riding with a buddy can take some stress out of it while you are figuring it out. No substitute for experience.
What time of the year are you planning to go? If you slab up somewhere around Shasta, Ca the weather takes a change during the winter. It is 10:00 AM and right now Seattle is 38.7 degrees and rain in the future. This time of the year expect rain, snow and some ice. I am just saying expect it. Make sure you have some rain gear. And the best gloves you can afford (wind and rain proof). The rain gear doesn't have to be expensive. In fact I like the cheaper stuff because it compacts down nicely (not bulky) cheap and easy to replace. For those that do serious daily riding in wet weather the more expensive stuff makes more since.
You will need some combination of bags. Soft saddle bags and a tank bag would be very useful. Lots of used stuff out there. Check e bay etc..
Just some things to add to your decision.
George
Re; Checking tyre pressures. Before you go set your tyre pressures cold then go for a ride and bring them up to operating temperature. Then take a pressure reading. Use this reading when you make your stops while tyres are still hot unless its your last stop for the day where you can then let them cool and do a cold pressure check.
Quote from: krusty on January 14, 2015, 04:05:56 PM
Re; Checking tyre pressures. Before you go set your tyre pressures cold then go for a ride and bring them up to operating temperature. Then take a pressure reading. Use this reading when you make your stops while tyres are still hot unless its your last stop for the day where you can then let them cool and do a cold pressure check.
So true , you may loose psi after a spirited run thru some extreme twisties. Also if a new set of tires you will loose psi during break-in as the tire seats to the rim.
so knowing your usual psi will be a standard you can count on. :good:
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 14, 2015, 04:15:11 PM
Also if a new set of tires you will loose psi during break-in as the tire seats to the rim.
Never heard of that before. Learned something today.
Sounds like an old wives tale ... JMHO
Quote from: simi_ed on January 14, 2015, 05:38:17 PM
Sounds like an old wives tale ... JMHO
More like an old man's tale ... ha ha
Depends on how clean your rim is and what was used to mount tire, followed by what kind of break in miles you put on the tires.
Aggressive riding thru twisties will cause loss of tire psi .
Just talking about 2-5 psi at the end of the run.
I've done Portland, OR to south of Tucson, AZ and back. Plus to Colorado Springs and back. FJ never skipped a beat.
Some tips from my personal experience from riding long distances in all kinds of conditions.
Gear, gear, gear. A heated vest or jacket liner makes all the difference in the world when the temps are cooler. Not so bad if the sun is out, but if it's cloudy, you'll be chilly no matter how many layers you have on. Since you're heading north to Seattle, expect it to be crappy from about Grants Pass to Seattle. A tip I got from Klavdy was to buy a Turtle Fur neck warmer. This cuts the wind noise in your helmet an amazing amount and also protects your neck from bugs, rocks, etc. Combine it with a good set of earplugs and there is little fatigue from constant wind noise. It is a bit uncomfortable in warmer/hot weather but the benefit is worth sweating a little more.
Buy a camel pack and use it. Sipping on it while riding in any conditions keeps you hydrated and alert. I prefer this to downing a bottle of water at fuel stops..then having to stop an hour later to take a leak.
For me the ride to my destination usually sucks since I'm out of shape for riding. The ride home is cake since I'm accustomed to being on the bike again. Every rally I've gone to I ride in the rain going down, but have great weather going home so I carry all kinds of gear. Once I'm in shape I can ride from fill up to fill up without having to stop.
Lube the chain when I stop for the night and check the oil in the morning.
If you want a great ride when in WA state, take 101 from Astoria to Seattle and go around the Olympic Mountains. You can catch a ferry to Seattle in Bremerton or on Bainbridge Island. I wouldn't suggest 101 in Oregon since the slow speed drivers will make you nuts.
The camelback is a great idea and I know long distance riders that use them. A point with neck warmers is make sure that your helmet is well ventilated so that you're still getting fresh air to breath.
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 15, 2015, 03:22:25 PM
Aggressive riding thru twisties will cause loss of tire psi .
I don't think this is true. Aggressive riding will cause the tire to heat up and actually build up more pressure. That's why "track day" tire pressures are significantly lower than "street" tire pressures. The tire will run much hotter being abused on a track and build up pressure.
One other thing, an underinflated tire will run hotter than a properly inflated tire due to excessive squirming of the rubber.
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 15, 2015, 03:22:25 PM
Quote from: simi_ed on January 14, 2015, 05:38:17 PM
Sounds like an old wives tale ... JMHO
More like an old man's tale ... ha ha
Depends on how clean your rim is and what was used to mount tire, followed by what kind of break in miles you put on the tires.
Aggressive riding thru twisties will cause loss of tire psi .
Just talking about 2-5 psi at the end of the run.
It looks like I need to step up the pace in the twisties, I haven't been able to have that happen yet :blush:
Lets stick to the question. Tire pressure is important, but this guy wants use his FJ to cover miles... What else you got?
I'm sorry Mark, but you can't put inaccurate information out there and not be called on it no matter what the original topic.
And if you want to cover a lot of miles, you better have the correct air pressure in your tires so it is related to the original post.
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 21, 2015, 10:39:48 PM
Lets stick to the question. Tire pressure is important, but this guy wants use his FJ to cover miles... What else you got?
What does the tire pressure sticker under the seat say? That's probably a good place to start.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 21, 2015, 11:04:48 PM
I'm sorry Mark, but you can't put inaccurate information out there and not be called on it no matter what the original topic.
And if you want to cover a lot of miles, you better have the correct air pressure in your tires so it is related to the original post.
Fair enough, I prefer to check my pressure each day before I ride. I try to keep it simple. However, in support of your concern, I have been on plenty of twisty rides. The only ride that left me with a low pressure tire was a failed valve stem. I guess if it was really important I could install a tire pressure monitoring system.
http://stuccu.com/s/Motorcycle+Tire+Pressure+Monitor-MbSLsTI-Buy-Exclusive-Deals-70-OFF-Save-Big-Lowest-Price-On-Motorcycle-Tire-Pressure-Monitor-Best-In-Stock-Fast-Free-Shipping?keyword=motorcycle%20tire%20pressure%20monitor&matchtype=b&querystring=tire%20pressure%20monitoring%20motorcycle&netid=2&aaid=546347aab1b1c61e78641be4&oid=29079900922&caid=546347aab1b1c61e78641be1&device=c (http://stuccu.com/s/Motorcycle+Tire+Pressure+Monitor-MbSLsTI-Buy-Exclusive-Deals-70-OFF-Save-Big-Lowest-Price-On-Motorcycle-Tire-Pressure-Monitor-Best-In-Stock-Fast-Free-Shipping?keyword=motorcycle%20tire%20pressure%20monitor&matchtype=b&querystring=tire%20pressure%20monitoring%20motorcycle&netid=2&aaid=546347aab1b1c61e78641be4&oid=29079900922&caid=546347aab1b1c61e78641be1&device=c)
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 21, 2015, 11:04:48 PM
I'm sorry Mark, but you can't put inaccurate information out there and not be called on it no matter what the original topic.
And if you want to cover a lot of miles, you better have the correct air pressure in your tires so it is related to the original post.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 21, 2015, 11:04:48 PM
I'm sorry Mark, but you can't put inaccurate information out there and not be called on it no matter what the original topic.
And if you want to cover a lot of miles, you better have the correct air pressure in your tires so it is related to the original post.
Hey Hooligan,,, This is not inaccurate information ...I will stipulate that "you may/can lose tire psi after riding extreme twisties"
We all check tire psi before riding our FJ's , Am I the only one who has had a loss of tire psi ?
So every motorcycle I ever rode has a bad stem or bad wheel/tire seal problem for the last 40 yrs?
My riding buddies must have the same problem too I guess.
I am very much aware how tires heat up and change psi and will make adj as needed . I would welcome you to come ride with me and see if you lose air.
The moral of the post is check your tire psi more often on an interstate ride.
Riding hard causes the tire to heat up. Raising the temperature of an (essentially) fixed volume of gas (the inside of the tire) will cause the pressure to go up. That's simple high school physics.
Please explain how you have altered the law's of physics?
In the past I have monitored tire pressure during a ride. In a bind I had to replace a rear tire with a bias ply tire. I was originally terrified of the consequences of that action. I was mostly concerned about what pressure to run and it's affect on traction. I set the pressure to the same as I had been running in the radial; 42psi cold. After riding to a local twisty road and making a fairly spirited ride down it the pressure had increased to 45psi. I checked the pressure several other times during that ride and it was never below the 42 psi cold starting pressure. As an aside, the tire worn fine and lasted a long time.
I also have first hand experience with Sprint car racing where one of our biggest concerns was the tire heating up during the race and throwing the handling off. When you start with only about 8psi in the rear tire, a rise of even 1/2psi is significant. So much so that one of the tasks between races was to set and test the tire bleeders. These are check valves that install in the rim that release excess pressure that always builds up during the race. Also, the tire pressure monitoring systems on my car and truck never shows the pressure decreasing below the cold starting pressure.
The only time I came back from a ride with less pressure in my tire was because of a nail.
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 22, 2015, 01:41:04 PM
However, in support of your concern, I have been on plenty of twisty rides. The only ride that left me with a low pressure tire was a failed valve stem.
So, what side of this argument do you think I'm on?
Alright gents.. this discussion has become way OT..
Start another thread, take it to PM, etc..
Let's get back on track to help the OP on his ride from sunny S. California to grey and wet Seattle Washington.
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 22, 2015, 03:00:27 PM
I would welcome you [FJ Hooligan] to come ride with me and see if you lose air.
Wahoo! The gauntlet has been thrown down!
We've got ourselves a bonafide duel in the making! :yahoo:
Mark Olson,
I apologize for the tone of my response. If I was a doctor, my bedside manner would suck. I do not mean for my response to sound adversarial. In reading it, it sounds that way. I was merely attempting to apply science and personal experience to explain the situation. I realize you may have had a differing experience. Sometimes I can be a bit of a dick. I will try to not be so overbearing in the future.
Now, all the new "Topic Police" can return to their regular jobs. (oops, I think I just did it again)
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 22, 2015, 07:41:08 PM
Mark Olson,
I apologize for the tone of my response. If I was a doctor, my bedside manner would suck. I do not mean for my response to sound adversarial. In reading it, it sounds that way. I was merely attempting to apply science and personal experience to explain the situation. I realize you may have had a differing experience. Sometimes I can be a bit of a dick. I will try to not be so overbearing in the future.
Now, all the new "Topic Police" can return to their regular jobs. (oops, I think I just did it again)
No problem Hooligan , It appears we have had different experiences with tire psi. Not the first time I have bent the laws of physics. :rofl2:
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 23, 2015, 04:14:30 PM
Not the first time I have bent the laws of physics. :rofl2:
Mark, you are the bent laws of physics.... :drinks:
Edit: How else can you be such an argumentative dick head and still be so likeable?
When is the next Renegade rally?
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 22, 2015, 07:41:08 PM
Now, all the new "Topic Police" can return to their regular........
An innocuous discussion conducted in a light hearted and good natured manner and two "Post Police" in two days come down on it.
Considering some of the rubbish that gets posted unchallenged I find this odd, if not disappointing.
Does one need permission to post on this subject now or do I just run the gauntlet, throw caution to the wind, put 'em on the line and post anyway.
I was enjoying that discussion.
This is a nasty precedent that I hope doesn't gather momentum. The only time I have experienced this before is when one of the contributing parties suddenly realises they about to be proved wrong and declares the subject closed.
I hope this is a one off and not a trend.
Or, it could just be me and maybe no one else found it offensive, in which case, declare the topic closed.
Noel
These are some do's/don't's/coulda'/shoulda items from my round trip from Toronto,ON - Austin,TX - NC - VI back in Apr. 2013 - somewheres around 3500 mi. (and previous trips throughout the years). Sorry about being a windbag... :boredom:
• Do i need to take any special precautions while planning a long ride like this?
* Check tire pressures every morning before you go - also increse the pressure due to the heavier load and continuous travel - this may depend on the tire brand.
* Bring chain lube & cleaner - Inspect/adjust chain every morning (if req'd).
* Bring extra gear (rainsuits/gloves/boots) - It may not rain much in San Diego, but it does in Oregon and Washington depending on your timing. I've driven through 12hrs of rain, and yes it does suck. But if you absolutely have to get there - just remember : It's Only Water!
* A new face shield for the helmet if you haven't got one in a while. The first time it rains, you'll know why.
* Layered clothing - "up here" multi layered riding pants and jackets are the norm now. If you don't have them - buy them - or just wear extra layers underneath.
* Yes, water-water-water - at least 2L/day (~2qts?) - and watch what you eat - try to stay away from the greasy shit and burgers - more proteins and complex carbs blah-blah-blah. Keep some veggies or fruits in the tank bag for roadside snacks.
* Keep a roll of toilet paper within easy access (i.e. tank bag) for that emergency stop because you ate that double-stuffed-bean burritto-with dble hot peppers for lunch 3hrs ago... (see above).
* Stretch in the morning and whenever you stop - be concious of your posture - you will find your back and shoulders begin to slouch and will cause you back pain
* If you have a stock seat invest in one of these: http://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/brands/airhawk.html?gclid=CJSU-P3krMMCFQisaQod4Z0A1A (http://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/brands/airhawk.html?gclid=CJSU-P3krMMCFQisaQod4Z0A1A) It will extend your cruising range quite a bit. They are sold everywhere now.
* Invest in a set of risers from RPM http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AHandleBarRiser (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AHandleBarRiser)
* Bring a few extra tools - don't bring 1/2 the tool chest (like I did) - you are very limited in what you can do in roadside repairs (unless your some kind of mech. wiz) - also bring some extra fuses just in case.
You could pack the kitchen sink too, but just think of the likelihood of something going wrong. I actually only used the tools in the stock kit for chain tensioning mostly. If the probablity is low, then don't worry about it. You can't prevent Murphy's Law.
• How far/long can I ride my FJ before i need to give the machine a break
* You will wear out before the FJ will. Just remember, unless your an Olympic athlete or an experienced Iron Butt you may not be able to ride 12 hrs a day every day. Factor in extra time to ride less on some days - stop and smell the roses as they say. I averaged 600 km on a short day and 800 km on a long (about 350 - 500 miles/day). That may not seem much, but it was the first ride of the year - the bike was only ready about a week before we left - so my ass, back, and arms were not conditioned yet for anything beyond a weekend trip - let alone a two week one.
* I found on average for every three hrs of riding there was an hour of non-riding due to gas stops/eating/bathroom breaks/resting. I'm over 50 and my level of fitness is not at all good (so normal for a North American). This will be your primary factor in guaging your endurance.
• How much oil should i carry
* I brought an extra 2L (~2qrts). I went through both during the trip - and I also got an oil change in TX at a dealer which was the 1/2 way pt. That was only 1500 mi. or so, but better safe than sorry.
• What should I watch for, mechanically, during the ride?
* Chain tension/condition
* Tire wear/pressures
* Oil consumption
* Fasteners/bolts/screws for any hard luggage mounts, and fairings.
That's about all I had to worry about, but it is mostly dependant on your bike and it's own history and your level of maintenance.
• Whats the optimal travelling-speed for an endurance trip? I notice the speedometer reds @ 55, is it best to keep at or below that speed when covering long distances?
* If it's Interstate - then whatever the flow is - 65-85mph all day is well within the FJ's capabilities. Secondary roads - stick near enough to the speed limits and enjoy the road - esp, if they are unfamiliar. The locals may find it easy to go 70 in a 55 (or even 45) zone, but drive your own road not theirs, so-to-speak.
* Keep concious of your situational awareness. We all "zone out" after a while and end up in that bubble where time and distance pass us by (at least I do sometimes). :scratch_one-s_head: That can be a good thing sometimes - to clear the clutter from your brain - but can be very bad when you don't immediately notice that camper comimg the other way making a left turn in front of you.
Once we got west of the Mississippi, the police presence disappeared for some reason, on the highways and byways. Everybody seemed to have the pedal-to-the-metal, esp. truckers. We would be going (an indicated) 75mph and they would blow by us going considerably faster.
Most of all, RELAX. :drinks: Like I listed earlier, posture is very important. I also prefer to detour 2-3 hrs out of the way to avoid heavy urban areas and avoid the gridlock. Speaking of which - timing your journey is important. Arriving in urban areas during rush hour can be frustrating - hence the detour option. Also, if your getting motels, go to the north end of any town/city on your way up and vice/versa on your way down. This should avoid most of any rush hour traffic when you leave in the mornings.
I could go on.... and on.... and on.... :ireful: , but I think that's enough for now... :pardon:
What PaulG posted + borrow an "Air Hawk" + Pic & Post. :drinks:
Along with the previous suggestions I would add a good tire repair/plug kit and an electric air pump, a compact gas siphoning device, a length of rope for towing (or being towed) and bike-sized jumper cables. Have a great ride and be sure to take lots o' pics. :bye:
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 23, 2015, 06:26:13 PM
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 23, 2015, 04:14:30 PM
Not the first time I have bent the laws of physics. :rofl2:
Mark, you are the bent laws of physics.... :drinks: Well, thank you for the compliment
Edit: How else can you be such an argumentative dick head and still be so likeable? Years of training and experience
When is the next Renegade rally?
The next Renegade rally will be discussed at the WCR this year and I am open to suggestions about the location although the date should be around the 11th of September after labor day.
Quote from: ribbert on January 24, 2015, 05:43:15 AM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 22, 2015, 07:41:08 PM
Now, all the new "Topic Police" can return to their regular........
An innocuous discussion conducted in a light hearted and good natured manner and two "Post Police" in two days come down on it.
Considering some of the rubbish that gets posted unchallenged I find this odd, if not disappointing.
Does one need permission to post on this subject now or do I just run the gauntlet, throw caution to the wind, put 'em on the line and post anyway.
I was enjoying that discussion.
This is a nasty precedent that I hope doesn't gather momentum. The only time I have experienced this before is when one of the contributing parties suddenly realises they about to be proved wrong and declares the subject closed.
I hope this is a one off and not a trend.
Or, it could just be me and maybe no one else found it offensive, in which case, declare the topic closed.
Noel
Noel , It appears that if a topic degrades to a difference of opinion between only 2 posters then they are asked to take it to PM . Other posters may be interested in the discussion but unless they post something into the discussion it appears there is no interest in a conclusion of the degraded topic.
I was quite surprised you had no opinion to offer on the subject .
Good advice, Paul!
My only addendum would be to bring along First Aid goodies. Bring large & small bandages, prescription meds, asprin, a Neosporin anit-biotic type cream, a trauma type bandage, perhaps with some anti-coagulant powder, or bandage infused with same. This kind of stuff can make the difference if you get injured and need to play doctor until real help arrives. Perhaps a small fire extinguisher ...
Quote from: Mark Olson on January 24, 2015, 03:43:43 PM
Noel , It appears that if a topic degrades to a difference of opinion between only 2 posters then they are asked to take it to PM . Other posters may be interested in the discussion but unless they post something into the discussion it appears there is no interest in a conclusion of the degraded topic.
I was quite surprised you had no opinion to offer on the subject .
Yes, that does appear to be the case and was my very point. Why is 2 the magic number and not 3 or 4 or 5. Why does that make it less interesting? There are thousands of lurkers out there that enjoy reading the forum but don't contribute.
Topics reach their natural conclusion and don't need 3rd party intervention to call time.
I find many topics here of no interest at all but I don't make an assumption on behalf of the other 4000 members that it is no longer interesting and call for an end to it, I simply skip over them.
You don't need to have participated in the writing of a book or only read books written by multiple authors (more than two) to enjoy it and if you don't find it interesting it doesn't follow suit that others won't either.
Haha, yes I did have an opinion, and a post already written and ready to submit, but to do so at that time would have appeared more as an act of defiance than a legitimate contribution and Heaven forbid my posts should be seen as inflammatory or I be seen as non compliant.
I suggest this subject now be terminated due to an anticipated lack of interest and I need to go and recalibrate my TPMS, damn thing shows my tyres holding pressure. :biggrin:
Noel
Quote from: theLeopard on January 14, 2015, 05:21:45 AM
• Whats the optimal travelling-speed for an endurance trip? I notice the speedometer reds @ 55, is it best to keep at or below that speed when covering long distances?
You must be young.
Remember (worst ever) President Jimmy Carter?
Arab oil embargo? Back when they were stingy with their oil rather than trying to drown us with it?
Huge American cars that got 5MPG?
The above caused the government to issue a National Maximum Speed Limit of 55 MPH in 1973. They hoped it would save fuel (it didn't). For awhile, speedometers were required to show a maximum speed of 85 MPH (my '82 Maxim had this).
The (mostly ignored) "law" stayed in effect until 1995. That's why the speedometer shows 55 in red colored numbers. It has nothing to do with how fast your FJ can/should be ridden.
EDIT: Oops, I should check the interweb first. It was Nixon that implemented this speed limit. Carter wasn't elected until '76 but it was such a bad idea that I just assumed that the peanut farmer came up with it.
Quote from: simi_ed on January 24, 2015, 04:00:16 PM
Good advice, Paul!
My only addendum would be to bring along First Aid goodies. Bring large & small bandages, prescription meds, asprin, a Neosporin anit-biotic type cream, a trauma type bandage, perhaps with some anti-coagulant powder, or bandage infused with same. This kind of stuff can make the difference if you get injured and need to play doctor until real help arrives. Perhaps a small fire extinguisher ...
I think a finger tip bandage would have sufficed Ed.... :rofl2:
Not sure if this would require a seperate thread but here goes. How about some form of cruise control? On longer trips I get an ache somewhere around my right shoulder blade. My physiotherapist suggests that it is relayed muscle stress from folding the throttle.
Quote from: krusty on January 25, 2015, 12:50:05 AM
Not sure if this would require a seperate thread but here goes. How about some form of cruise control? On longer trips I get an ache somewhere around my right shoulder blade. My physiotherapist suggests that it is relayed muscle stress from folding the throttle.
+1 :good2: I installed a throttle lock to give my right hand a break now and again.
Quote from: Capn Ron on January 25, 2015, 01:59:51 AM
Quote from: krusty on January 25, 2015, 12:50:05 AM
Not sure if this would require a seperate thread but here goes. How about some form of cruise control? On longer trips I get an ache somewhere around my right shoulder blade. My physiotherapist suggests that it is relayed muscle stress from folding the throttle.
+1 :good2: I installed a throttle lock to give my right hand a break now and again.
Or on the cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/8M4991-CAT-O-Ring-Motorcycle-Throttle-Lock-Lot-of-10-/200361377798?hash=item2ea6780006&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/8M4991-CAT-O-Ring-Motorcycle-Throttle-Lock-Lot-of-10-/200361377798?hash=item2ea6780006&vxp=mtr)
George
Quote from: krusty on January 25, 2015, 12:50:05 AM
...On longer trips I get an ache somewhere around my right shoulder blade. ...relayed muscle stress from folding the throttle.
"
FOLDING the throttle" ? ? ? THERE'S your problem! :empathy2:
Steve
Quote from: krusty on January 25, 2015, 12:50:05 AM
Not sure if this would require a seperate thread but here goes. How about some form of cruise control? On longer trips I get an ache somewhere around my right shoulder blade. My physiotherapist suggests that it is relayed muscle stress from holding the throttle.
Foldin/holdin. How do I edit that?
Found it.
Quote from: ribbert on January 24, 2015, 05:43:15 AM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 22, 2015, 07:41:08 PM
Now, all the new "Topic Police" can return to their regular........
An innocuous discussion conducted in a light hearted and good natured manner and two "Post Police" in two days come down on it.
Considering some of the rubbish that gets posted unchallenged I find this odd, if not disappointing.
Does one need permission to post on this subject now or do I just run the gauntlet, throw caution to the wind, put 'em on the line and post anyway.
I was enjoying that discussion.
This is a nasty precedent that I hope doesn't gather momentum. The only time I have experienced this before is when one of the contributing parties suddenly realises they about to be proved wrong and declares the subject closed.
I hope this is a one off and not a trend.
Or, it could just be me and maybe no one else found it offensive, in which case, declare the topic closed.
Noel
Alright.. I bit my lip long enough.
I took a break from this message board for a long time because of shit like this. Someone asks a question and receives some replies. Great, we're all here to discuss things and help others. Then someone posts something in the same thread that has some relevance and all of the sudden people go fucking ape shit. The thread then degrades into a pissing contest with post, after post, after post with nothing to help the OP. The OP must then sift though the messages to find anymore relevant information.
I see less and less of the long time members posting and I believe it's because of crap like this. How does getting into an argument over how much tire pressure someone looses while riding in the mountain twisties have to do with the original question of riding a long distance across three states? This is the kind of stuff that if left to run rampant, kills a message board. Folks will find the site, look at the quality of the posts and move on. I'm not trying to be the "Topic Police" or stomp on your first amendment rights. I have seen too many other message boards go to shit over public arguments and I don't want that to happen here. The "newer" members may not know how or why this message board came to be. The reason has relevance over my concerns.
In the end it sounds like I'm in the minority here.. I enjoy a thought provoking discussion like everyone else. If you seriously have an issue with me, don't result to name calling or beat around the bush with your feelings. Tell me to fuck off either in public or PM and I'll be happy to oblige you.
And to add to the discussion of a throttle lock. Very, very good idea. I had forgot to mention it in my post. Amazing how good it feels to let go and feel the blood flow freely back into your hand.
" Amazing how good it feels to let go and feel the blood flow freely back into your hand."
Just what exactly are you trying to say Bean :biggrin:
Quote from: magge52 on January 24, 2015, 03:05:33 PM
.......a length of rope for towing (or being towed)
Being towed on a bike is asking for trouble, even if you are are a seasoned rider. Have you ever tried it with regular rope and a driver who knows nothing about towing?
You'd be lucky to get 5 feet.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on January 26, 2015, 02:57:38 AM
Quote from: magge52 on January 24, 2015, 03:05:33 PM
.......a length of rope for towing (or being towed)
Being towed on a bike is asking for trouble, even if you are are a seasoned rider. Have you ever tried it with regular rope and a driver who knows nothing about towing?
You'd be lucky to get 5 feet.
Noel
Or a person having a tow forgets about the rope after the motor starts and tries to overtake. :dash2:
Quote from: pdxfj on January 25, 2015, 02:55:18 PM
Quote from: ribbert on January 24, 2015, 05:43:15 AM
An innocuous discussion conducted in a light hearted and good natured manner..... blah, blah, blah
.......because of shit like this......... because of crap like this........
Geez, you're a tough audience Bean. You call my post shit and crap when all I did was comply with yours and Monkeys wishes and withhold the already written post I was about to submit on the subject. I added an opinion on the process and then dropped the whole thing. How much more compliant can I be?
To atone for my sins I will add a couple of suggestions. Enough things to take and do en route have already been suggested that you may need to end up trailering it and taking a PA with you, but they are all good.
Someone mentioned getting a new visor, great idea, but if you are likely to encounter rain I would suggest getting a Pinlock ready one. They are made for most of the major brand helmets. This is double glazing for your visor that is impossible to fog up. As was universally agreed (a rare thing) here recently, they are fantastic.
Many of the suggestions already made are precautionary and apply to circumstances that may not (hope don't) happen. One thing you are almost certainly going to encounter though if not familiar with long distance riding is fatigue. Riding is far more tiring that driving and fatigue on a bike presents itself differently and you may not recognise the early signs. Other than the obvious of riding too long, it is also contributed to by being cold or hot or wet and wind noise. Ear plugs are a must, no exceptions.
There are no prizes for how far you can ride without a break or how far you can travel in a day. The whole idea of motorbike road trips is fun. Take plenty of stops of whatever duration you want and when you feel you've had enough for the day, call it quits, don't push on.
You can get away with a lot of things driving a car when you are too tired, you will get away with none of them on a bike.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on January 24, 2015, 07:34:26 PM
I need to go and recalibrate my TPMS, damn thing shows my tyres holding pressure.
Noel
Anyone ever used anything like the below? Do they work? Are they accurate? Do they need recalibration? :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TireGard-Motorcycle-TPMS-/231148895135?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d18c3b9f&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/TireGard-Motorcycle-TPMS-/231148895135?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d18c3b9f&vxp=mtr)
I saw Mark post something similar out the other day and it got me thinking. In my goal to make the Gixxer more like a sport-tourer, I find myself looking more and more at such niceties. On long distances, such a thing could be useful, so it's not completely irrelevant to the topic at hand...
Dan
Quote from: Dan Filetti on January 26, 2015, 07:38:44 AM
Anyone ever used anything like the below?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TireGard-Motorcycle-TPMS-/231148895135?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d18c3b9f&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/TireGard-Motorcycle-TPMS-/231148895135?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d18c3b9f&vxp=mtr)
Oops, never-mind, I just read an Amazon review, below, where the guy points out that using these will (and did for him) fatigue rubber valve stems to the point of premature (potentially catastrophic), valve stem failure.
http://www.amazon.com/review/R25VM2T3RXDQXJ/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R25VM2T3RXDQXJ (http://www.amazon.com/review/R25VM2T3RXDQXJ/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R25VM2T3RXDQXJ)
if you have any interest....
Anyway, I'll think I'll refrain, and do it manually.
Dan
Dan, Noel posted up his TPMS, it installs inside the wheel with a steel band. It looks like a good system and has no affect on the valve stems. Maybe Noel would repost it or give us a link to it.
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 26, 2015, 11:07:16 AM
Dan, Noel posted up his TPMS, it installs inside the wheel with a steel band. It looks like a good system and has no affect on the valve stems. Maybe Noel would repost it or give us a link to it.
Yeah, I just went and found that, seems like a robust system, although fairly involved. I wonder about the units that also fit from inside the wheel that have no band. This would make tire changing less problematic. Many cars use this style to good effect, even high performance cars, so I'm thinking the band may be belt and suspenders?
Dan
Quote from: Bones on January 26, 2015, 03:28:15 AM
Quote from: ribbert on January 26, 2015, 02:57:38 AM
Quote from: magge52 on January 24, 2015, 03:05:33 PM
.......a length of rope for towing (or being towed)
Being towed on a bike is asking for trouble, even if you are are a seasoned rider. Have you ever tried it with regular rope and a driver who knows nothing about towing?
You'd be lucky to get 5 feet.
Noel
Or a person having a tow forgets about the rope after the motor starts and tries to overtake. :dash2:
Nope haven't had the pleasure but if I were in the middle of nowhere and my bike or a buddy's quit I'd be willing to give it a try rather than leave the bike.
Quote from: Dan Filetti on January 26, 2015, 10:44:00 AM
Oops, never-mind, I just read an Amazon review, below, where the guy points out that using these will (and did for him) fatigue rubber valve stems to the point of premature (potentially catastrophic), valve stem failure.
http://www.amazon.com/review/R25VM2T3RXDQXJ/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R25VM2T3RXDQXJ (http://www.amazon.com/review/R25VM2T3RXDQXJ/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R25VM2T3RXDQXJ)
if you have any interest....
Anyway, I'll think I'll refrain, and do it manually.
Dan
The manufacturer states in their user manual: http://www.bigbikeparts.com/catalog/documents/13-/13-315U.pdf (http://www.bigbikeparts.com/catalog/documents/13-/13-315U.pdf)
Quote
PRECAUTIONS
1. Sensors will work with all valve stems – However, rubber 90° valve stems do not last as long as
metal and depending on the age and quality of your rubber 90° valve stem you need to make sure
they are in good shape. We do recommend the use of metal valve stems for better durability. Please
verify clearance when used with a 90 degree valve stem (Softail, etc.) to clear any and all calipers
or other components before use.
It is also interesting to note that Garmin has a similar system for use with their newer GPS units, and they specifically state that metal valve stems are required.
Personally, at a cost of over $150.00 USD, the cost to benefits ratio is way below my acceptable level. I manually check my tire pressures each day before I ride, and don't worry about it the rest of the day. If something feels wrong or 'off' during the ride, then I'll stop and check the tires again to see if something is amiss. Others may feel differently, and if so, I say go for it. There is something to be said about having a system that can give you real time info on your tire pressures, and if that is of value to you, I would advise looking into a system that has a display that not only mounts somewhere easily observable, but also has some sort of alert mechanism that will get your attention quickly (alarm. flashing colored light, etc.). That way you can get the most out of the system. To be clear, I'm not saying that I would never get such a system. Only that the current offerings are above a price point I find acceptable, and don't provide the minimum benefits that I would personally want.
Quote from: magge52 on January 26, 2015, 01:19:28 PM
Quote from: Bones on January 26, 2015, 03:28:15 AM
Quote from: ribbert on January 26, 2015, 02:57:38 AM
Quote from: magge52 on January 24, 2015, 03:05:33 PM
.......a length of rope for towing (or being towed)
Being towed on a bike is asking for trouble, even if you are are a seasoned rider. Have you ever tried it with regular rope and a driver who knows nothing about towing?
You'd be lucky to get 5 feet.
Noel
It can be done and I have done it but it would be very difficult to do for an FJ due to the fairing. The rope would need to fed somewhere between the front forks up to the clutch grip where it is wound around the grip a few times, not crossed over itself. The clutch hand then holds the rope to the grip. In case of a problem the clutch hand can immediately release the rope which can then slip away. NEVER TIE A TOW ROPE TO A BIKE.
Or a person having a tow forgets about the rope after the motor starts and tries to overtake. :dash2:
Nope haven't had the pleasure but if I were in the middle of nowhere and my bike or a buddy's quit I'd be willing to give it a try rather than leave the bike.
Quote from: magge52 on January 26, 2015, 01:19:28 PM
Nope haven't had the pleasure but if I were in the middle of nowhere and my bike or a buddy's quit I'd be willing to give it a try rather than leave the bike.
magge52, you are spot-on^^^
I carry a set of nylon web tie-downs in my long travels abroad. Other than their intended use, I figure that they can also be used as towing straps too. I never used them until...
This past summer, I was riding to the back to the Twin Cities through the hills and dales of SW WI. I left with someone that I had met for the first time at a rally, and he was riding one of those Kawasaki Z1000s. I was chasing him mile after mile, and keeping him within sight, on twisty country two-lane roads that had sand in their corners from recent hard rains. We came over a rise, then down into a tight right hander. He caught some of the sand in the corner, got squirrely, and shot off the road into a wide ditch that was five feet below the level of the road. He was extremely lucky to only have a bruised shoulder.
There was no way in hell we could get his bike unstuck from the knee-deep muck, let alone force the bike up the steep bank of the ditch, and onto the road. In one more stroke of luck, a farmer who lived down the road (and that road was really sparely-populated), happened upon us. The farmer was a kindly person, who drove to his farm, and returned with his tractor. The tractor had some kind of elevating hitch arrangement on it. We looped the tie-down (towing strap) around the rear wheel (no scratches due to nylon webbing). The farmer raised the hitch, lifting the Kawasaki's rear wheel high in the air, and towed the bike out of the deep ditch, while we guided the front end with a hand on each side of the handlebars.
We thanked the farmer up and down for his kindness.
The bike was bent a little, but rideable, and we made it back to the Twin Cities all right. Those tie-downs (tow straps) sure came in handy. :good2:
I wasn't a boy scout but I try to be prepared for the unexpected. :good:
Quote from: Bones on January 26, 2015, 03:28:15 AM
It can be done and I have done it but it would be very difficult to do for an FJ due to the fairing. The rope would need to fed somewhere between the front forks up to the clutch grip where it is wound around the grip a few times, not crossed over itself. The clutch hand then holds the rope to the grip. In case of a problem the clutch hand can immediately release the rope which can then slip away. NEVER TIE A TOW ROPE TO A BIKE.
Or a person having a tow forgets about the rope after the motor starts and tries to overtake. :dash2:
I have carried a motorcycle-specific tow strap since I bought the FJ 17 years ago...I've never needed it or had anyone else need it.
That being said, I was talking with some ADV guys last year who had more than one occasion to tow a buddy out of the wilderness from either fuel or mechanical issues. They said they would attach the strap to the tow bike on its starboard-side at the foot-peg level. They would then put two wraps of the other end around the port-side foot peg (Shifter foot) of the towed bike. This served two purposes: 1. It forced the bikes into a staggered formation and 2. If things started to get hairy, the guy on the towed bike could just lift his shifter foot and the strap would release.
I did this in 2010 in Willits..............
Erich V, and I rode our FJs from Phoenix AZ. Along the way Erich's 1100 developed an electrical gremlin which prevented the bike from starting at random times. It left us on the side of the road a couple times, but we soldiered-on into the night. In the wee hours of the morning, just as we arrived in Willits at a gas station, it failed to fire and would no longer.
We waited until first-light, and decided I would tow him the last few miles to the KOA.
One of us had a long enough piece of rope (I can't remember which one of us) and I tied it to the right side of my FJ. He wrapped it twice around the front of the lower part of his frame on the left, and held on to the end of it with his left hand.
It worked pretty well, and in no-time we arrived at the KOA and checked in for a long morning nap.
The next day, I remember Garth (Mr. Bean) ended up finding his electrical issue. It was traced to his kill switch I believe. (Erich's FJ started/ran fine the rest of the journey)
Quote from: Firehawk068 on January 26, 2015, 11:14:31 PM
I remember Garth (Mr. Bean) ended up finding his electrical issue. It was traced to his kill switch I believe. (Erich's FJ started/ran fine the rest of the journey)
Thanks for the information.
Mental note to self: Check/inspect/clean kill switch before riding to Central Rally.
Quote from: Dan Filetti on January 26, 2015, 11:58:51 AM
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 26, 2015, 11:07:16 AM
Dan, Noel posted up his TPMS, it installs inside the wheel with a steel band. It looks like a good system and has no affect on the valve stems. Maybe Noel would repost it or give us a link to it.
Yeah, I just went and found that, seems like a robust system, although fairly involved. I wonder about the units that also fit from inside the wheel that have no band. This would make tire changing less problematic. Many cars use this style to good effect, even high performance cars, so I'm thinking the band may be belt and suspenders?
Dan
It gives me great comfort knowing my tyre pressures. Throwing it into a corner only to discover you have been losing air can be nasty, being aware of a puncture long before it becomes evident by the the bikes handling can save a lot of drama and give you more options for finding somewhere to pull over or monitor the rate of the leak (and get to the next town) and the convenience of not having to check them manually makes it worth the relatively modest investment for me.
I have seen many posts here over the years of members discovering under inflated tyres, some embarrassingly so, merely from oversight or forgetfulness.
I researched the unit I bought and it is made by one of the largest manufacturers of such devices in the world, been around for 30 years, makes thousands of automotive electrical components and is a major supplier of after market parts to the industry. Good, no problem with back up and spares.
Yes they work, yes they are accurate and no they don't need calibrating. I gave up double checking mine after a year or so, totally confident of it's accuracy.
The valve cap types though are not as accurate (according to the people who make them)
I have no issue with the band, it is a giant ss worm drive hose clamp and I haven't given it a thought since I installed it years ago. I have a sticker on the rim to indicator the senders location for the purpose of tyre changing and that hasn't been an issue either.
The unit I have has a simple easy to read display showing f & r pressure (in whatever units you want - bar, psi, k's) and temp (F or C) all at once. Some makes require button pushing to scroll between F & R. It has an adjustable alarm for high and low pressure and high and low temp. It also has an adjustable alarm for volts and displays the voltage at start up, so I don't need a dedicated volt meter.
It probably does other things I haven't worried about.
It updates the info every 2 secs, good for monitoring air pressure loss in extreme twisties (or you could just write some numbers on a bit of tape on the handle bars for the same result and a lot less money) :biggrin:
The only downside is you can't replace the batteries with the "in wheel" type, you have to replace the sender unit but I think they are good for about 7 years.
Yes, I like knowing my tyre pressures at a glance and knowing my alternator is charging but everyone is different. I for example, have no interest in monitoring oil temp and pressure, I can't do anything about either one of them, it's not going to save me any grief out on the road and just gives me something to worry about.
Btw, I think oil level lights are far more useful on modern engines. A means of gauging the condition of the bottom end is less relevant these days but they do still use oil. By the time a pressure gauge registers no oil, you have already ruined you motor, particularly if the loss was gradual.
Noel
Quote from: pdxfj on January 25, 2015, 02:55:18 PM
Alright.. I bit my lip long enough.
I took a break from this message board for a long time because of shit like this. Someone asks a question and receives some replies. Great, we're all here to discuss things and help others. Then someone posts something in the same thread that has some relevance and all of the sudden people go fucking ape shit. The thread then degrades into a pissing contest with post, after post, after post with nothing to help the OP. The OP must then sift though the messages to find anymore relevant information.
I see less and less of the long time members posting and I believe it's because of crap like this. How does getting into an argument over how much tire pressure someone looses while riding in the mountain twisties have to do with the original question of riding a long distance across three states? This is the kind of stuff that if left to run rampant, kills a message board. Folks will find the site, look at the quality of the posts and move on. I'm not trying to be the "Topic Police" or stomp on your first amendment rights. I have seen too many other message boards go to shit over public arguments and I don't want that to happen here. The "newer" members may not know how or why this message board came to be. The reason has relevance over my concerns.
In the end it sounds like I'm in the minority here.. I enjoy a thought provoking discussion like everyone else. If you seriously have an issue with me, don't result to name calling or beat around the bush with your feelings. Tell me to fuck off either in public or PM and I'll be happy to oblige you.
And to add to the discussion of a throttle lock. Very, very good idea. I had forgot to mention it in my post. Amazing how good it feels to let go and feel the blood flow freely back into your hand.
Okay Garth. I was going to move on but now, like you, I feel the need to reply.
First, like you, let me establish relevance with the original post by redundantly stating that I think a throttle lock is also a good idea. From your example, I guess that now gives me premission to ramble off-topic.
I don't really think the discussion went "fucking ape shit." My concern was for the general population relative to accurate tire pressures (whether you're riding long distance on highways or through twisties). Let's say someone plans on riding the Gap and reads that he may lose 2-5psi while riding hard. So, to compensate he overinflates his tires by 5psi "just in case." I would see this as a very bad thing since heat will further raise the tire pressure to a perhaps dangerous level. THAT was my concern. Potentially dangerous information was posted and I was trying to correct it.
I doubt seriously that this discussion will lead to the death of this board. I have seen far worse. Also, perhaps it's you that need to be reminded of why this great forum exists. As I recall it, heated discussions of politics, election candidates and general opinions on different gorernments on the Yahoo site lead to a plea from the moderator to try to point the discussions back toward more FJ-related topics and please refrain from discussing politically volitile topics during the presidential election year. It was this that lead to people going "fucking ape shit" over charges of excessive censorship that lead to people abandoning the Yahoo group and heading over here. I think the modern structure of this forum is also a major factor.
We've survived worse than this and will continue to do so probably because of the maturity of this group as a whole. I don't think you're in the minority with how you feel. There is plenty of crap that peeves me on here but I try to ignore it and move on.
My apologies to the original poster for muddying up the post but it's not the first (or last) time this has happened.
Just going to add my two cents on long-distance touring and tire pressures...The need to check them...and a bit of humility.
On my big trip, I mounted up a set of Pirelli Sport Demon tires before I left Los Angeles and put them to 38-40PSI. In two weeks (5,500 miles), I had worn them out and replaced them with Metzeller Marathon ME-880's and they lasted the next three months of the trip. Okay...so in the first 14 days of riding, tire pressures never even occurred to me. I mean...short of a puncture, the Pirelli's didn't even have time to loose much pressure before they were replaced!
The Metzellers were a different story. The rear lasted 12,000 miles to get me home and the front continued on to my first West Coast Rally and a lot of local riding for a total of 17,000 miles of use. This was all done in less than 9 months and again...I never even thought to check tire pressure.
One night, I was reading the forum and a heated discussion was going on about tire pressures. All sorts of theories were being thrown about and I was soaking it all in. In the end, it seemed that near-max pressure (40-ish PSI) was where I should be so I went out to the garage and checked on the Metzellers. The rear was at 38...but I had just replaced it recently. The front...which had been on the FJ since the Tail of the Dragon in North Carolina 9 months and 16,000 miles ago was at....15PSI! FIFteen!! :shok: I mean I guess the bike felt sluggish in the front end, but if you reduce the pressure by .085 PSI per day...over 270 days, there isn't a single day I would notice that. I pumped the front up to 38 PSI and took the bike for a ride. Holy smokes, I thought I just bought a brand-new bike!
Lesson learned and I'm checking tire pressures on a regular basis now as part of my regular pre-flight checks. :good2: