After using up a can a piece of PJ1's Blue and Black Label chain lubes, I'm wondering about other brands.
I found the PJ1's Black Label lube to be messy, and liked the Blue Label because it set up and did not fling off a whole lot, unlike the Black Label. From a lubrication standpoint, both seemed to work fairly well, and remained on the chain pretty good after riding in some rainy conditions at length.
What brand(s) have you found to your liking, why, and what others did you try, and then move on from before arriving at your go-to lube?
Thanks in advance.
Having pretty much been through one of everything in the shop I have been using Motul the last few years and was very happy with it. I recently changed to an oiler.
Noel
Tri-Flow. (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tri-flowL)
I lube the chain weekly after the ride, when the chain is hot. The Tri-Flow is a light enough oil to be able to penetrate past the o-rings and lube the internal pins of each link of the chain.
It is amazing how much the chain will absorb when hot and the correct lubrication is used.
My current DID chain has over 10K on it and I only check & adjust it at every oil change if required.
Randy - RPM
Tri-Flow for me as well, it washes off easier than the ant-fling stuff.
Dupont Teflon Chain Lube. It's all I have used on this chain, I only have about 4,500 miles on it. So, long term, I have no idea how good it is.
Joe
Quote from: Country Joe on October 19, 2014, 07:56:10 PM
Dupont Teflon Chain Lube. It's all I have used on this chain, I only have about 4,500 miles on it. So, long term, I have no idea how good it is.
Joe
Teflon and Tri-Flow are both PTFE, good slippery stuff for your chain... I learned about Tri-Flow from firearms. Some of best all around lubricant.
I have used engine oil for awhile.............................
Every time I do an oil change on something (car,jeep, motorcycle,lawnmower,etc............) I drain every last drop of fresh oil that was left in the bottles into a container.........
I then put that oil into a pistol oil can, and that's what I use on my chain..................It is a mixture of 5w30,10w30,10w40...........and sometimes 75w90
I don't clean and lube my chain nearly as often as I should, but it has about 22,000 miles on it, and it is about 1/3rd into it's adjustment range...........
I am running a RK 530GXW Gold chain.............http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/41641/i/rk-530-gxw-xw-ring-chain (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/41641/i/rk-530-gxw-xw-ring-chain)
I am not a fan of the sticky/waxy chain lubes..............I always felt they attract too much grit........
I've been using this stuff for the past couple years:
(http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/assets/images/products/DBI_Consumer_Cain-Saver_14oz.gif)
http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/chain_saver.html (http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/chain_saver.html)
I used to use the "chain wax" and similar types of chain lubes that were not supposed to fling off but I found they just left a gummy residue on the chain that would ultimately attract dirt and debris. I used the Dupont Chain Lube on the 16,000 km ride to Alaska and back, lubed the chain every day, rode some pretty dirty roads and only had to adjust the chain once the entire trip.
Once or twice a season I clean the chain using this:
(http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/assets/images/products/DBI_Consumer_MOTORCYCLE_Degreasers_10oz_16oz_CMYK.gif)
http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/motorcycle.html (http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/motorcycle.html)
That's all I have to say about that.
Zwartie
Tri-flo every 400 miles on my TDM. Chainsaw oil on my FJ which has an automatic oiler.
I reckon you're between a rock and a hard place with chain lubes. The stuff that doesn't fly off attracts grit, the stuff that doesn't attract grit flys off and if it doesn't do either, has dubious lubricating qualities.
My last chain lube would still be present after 1000kms of rain but over time became more like valve grinding paste with all the fine abrasive it would hold.
If anyone out there washes their chain (properly) as often as they say they do, or should, I'd like to meet him and shake his hand.
It was interesting when I first fitted the oiler, all the black crud that got slung off, presumably residue from the old lube. If you rubbed it between your fingers, you could feel the grit. It settled down after a while and now just throws off a bit of clean oil which I guess means it's doing its job.
I have about a years supply of the Scott lube (winter and Summer) so I'm using that.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on October 19, 2014, 09:33:55 PM
I reckon you're between a rock and a hard place with chain lubes. The stuff that doesn't fly off attracts grit, the stuff that doesn't attract grit flys off and if it doesn't do either, has dubious lubricating qualities.
My last chain lube would still be present after 1000kms of rain but over time became more like valve grinding paste with all the fine abrasive it would hold.
If anyone out there washes their chain (properly) as often as they say they do, or should, I'd like to meet him and shake his hand.
It was interesting when I first fitted the oiler, all the black crud that got slung off, presumably residue from the old lube. If you rubbed it between your fingers, you could feel the grit. It settled down after a while and now just throws off a bit of clean oil which I guess means it's doing its job.
I have about a years supply of the Scott lube (winter and Summer) so I'm using that.
Noel
Yep, all that oil flinging off will also fling off the grit and chain destroying abrasive. Keep the chain clean, lubed, and wash off the rear wheel if you don't like the look. Or choose to go through chains more often. You do the math....
This stuff is the shiznit:
(http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/036121/036121191860lg.jpg)
I apply it at the end of each day's ride...between 300 and 600 miles...at the campsite or hotel. A drip on each pivot point of the chain and one on each roller. I then wipe down the entire chain because there's nothing the lube on the outside of the plates will do but attract dirt. 20,000 miles and counting on an EK ZZZ chain with just THREE tension adjustments.
Coming from the bicycle world and having been shown the lubricating properties of Teflon, I would also give the nod to Tri-Flow. GREAT stuff!
I used to use the sticky type chain lube. Sticks to the chain and guard, swingarm, wheel, tire .......etc. Randy got me started me with TriFlow and everything stays much cleaner. Being the lazy type I put the bike on the center stand, spin the rear wheel and spray the inside of the chain every couple hundred miles. Dave
Thanks everyone for the feedback on the chain lubes. A number of good options, and the opinions of them, are always good when they come from the users.
An automatic chain lube system has always been an intriguing method to me. I have read about them, and the users'opinions of them vary. Some are pricey, but I think it goes along the line of your getting what you pay for. Spend some decent money, and you'll be happier.
Quote from: FJ1100mjk on October 20, 2014, 06:39:43 AM
Thanks everyone for the feedback on the chain lubes. A number of good options, and the opinions of them, are always good when they come from the users.
An automatic chain lube system has always been an intriguing method to me. I have read about them, and the users'opinions of them vary. Some are pricey, but I think it goes along the line of your getting what you pay for. Spend some decent money, and you'll be happier.
As a recent convert to an oiler after 45 years of riding, I am very pleased with it. You're right, they are not cheap, near enough to $400 with a twin feed nozzle and a few bits and pieces for a top of the line Scott oiler. User testimonials suggest I will get that back in my first chain. The results so far are very encouraging.
I've done about 5000kms on it to date with very good results.
For those that might be interested, below is the latest Scott E-system display.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3940/15360865599_77bc684d8d_c.jpg)
It has an infinitely adjustable accelerometer so it only feeds when the bike is moving and an indicator to show when it changes from standby to feed. It also has time and ambient temp (big deal)
The main feature for me is the large number in the centre (S/DP), this is seconds per drop. It is programmable between 40 and 180 seconds between drops. I have the twin nozzle feeding to either side of the sprocket just above the chain. You can adjust this on the fly simply by using the buttons up and down.
The system uses an electro magnetic plunger instead of vacuum. A full reservoir is good for about 6000 kms.
To date I have nothing but praise for it, unlike the Sena 20s bluetooth headset, of which I unfortunately bought 3.
Noel
Quote from: FJ1100mjk on October 20, 2014, 06:39:43 AM
Thanks everyone for the feedback on the chain lubes. A number of good options, and the opinions of them, are always good when they come from the users.
An automatic chain lube system has always been an intriguing method to me. I have read about them, and the users'opinions of them vary. Some are pricey, but I think it goes along the line of your getting what you pay for. Spend some decent money, and you'll be happier.
I've been happy with my DIY gravity fed unit: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6714.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6714.0) Only change I made since I wrote this up was adding a regulator to adjust the flow.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not 'selling' the benefits of an automatic chain oiler, just passing along what works for me :)
For what it's worth, Yamaha seemed to think an auto-oiler was necessary and implemented one on my TY250.
(http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb37/campsimonette/TY250/IMG_5624_zps5d7a1fac.jpg) (http://s208.photobucket.com/user/campsimonette/media/TY250/IMG_5624_zps5d7a1fac.jpg.html)
Sounds like some older Harley bikes. The tech back then was prone to leak, might as well direct it to the chain.... Innovative for the time...
Quote from: FJmonkey on October 20, 2014, 08:42:05 AM
Sounds like some older Harley bikes. The tech back then was prone to leak, might as well direct it to the chain.... Innovative for the time...
Yea, so was the FJ - Innovative for the time.
Quote from: Dads_FJ on October 20, 2014, 08:45:54 AM
Yea, so was the FJ - Innovative for the time.
Maybe I need to develop a drip pan to catch the Left side oil leaks and direct it to the chain. Then oil changes will be dynamic (continual loss/replace) and filter changes will still be scheduled. I think not. I just thought that the thought process (adapted during the 60's) and what the current tech provided was clever...
Not only is the FJ innovated for it's time, it still rocks on as great platform and permanent ride for my two wheel addiction.
I tend to switch back and forth between Maxima Chainwax, and Motorex Road or Race Chain Lubes (whichever is on sale).
(http://images2.revzilla.com/product_images/0002/0651/Maxima_Chain_Wax_detail.jpg) (http://images0.revzilla.com/product_images/0049/5215/motorex_chain_lube622_strong_street_spray_detail.jpg) (http://images2.revzilla.com/product_images/0059/1447/motorex_racing_chain_lube_detail.jpg)
I've found that between the two brands, the Motorex lubes have very little fling and tend to last longer than the Maxima wax (chain feels noticeably more tacky after several hundred miles than when using Maxima). Having said that, the Motorex lubes tend to be more expensive than the Maxima wax (especially the race lube), which is why I'll shop around, and if I can't find a good price on the Motorex lubes I'll pick up the Maxima. In terms of longevity, I've gotten upwards of 30,000 miles on DID ZVM-2/X chains using these lubes. I've found that for best results, wiping down the chain after applying the lube does a good job of further minimizing fling, as well as helping to clean the chain and rear sprocket.
I clean my chain with a rag and WD40, then, I have been using a Honda Chain Lube product. Seems to work well enough. Based on the input from this thread, I just ordered some TriFlow from Randy, as my Honda Lube product is nearing the end of it's can's life.
Note: for god's sake, as tempting as it may be, NEVER put the bike on the center stand, running, and in gear, to assist in lubing the chain. I've read so many stories/ seen too many pictures of mangled fingers as a result of this.
A side story if I may, that illustrates the point, I recently crushed the shit out of my left hand pinky. Got it caught between a fence post and moving commercial mower handle. I lost 1/2 inch of my finger.... Not being shy, I posted a pic of my freshly mangled finger on FB, I'll spare you folks the gory details. However, immediately folks were convinced it had been from lubing the chain with the bike running and in gear, on the center stand.... It's that common...
Stay safe out there folks,
Dan
Quote from: Dan Filetti on October 20, 2014, 12:29:07 PM
Note: for god's sake, as tempting as it may be, NEVER put the bike on the center stand, running, and in gear, to assist in lubing the chain. I've read so many stories/ seen too many pictures of mangled fingers as a result of this.
What Dan said..................................I am always afraid to stick my hand into anywhere there is moving chains and sprockets........
Some years ago, a friend of mine that I used to go snowmobiling with in Buffalo, was using a piece of sandpaper to scuff the belts on his Oldsmobile..........with the engine running.............You can guess what happened.
Luckily, they were able to sew the pieces of 3 of his fingers back on........... :shok:
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 19, 2014, 07:18:18 PM
Tri-Flow. (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tri-flowL)
I lube the chain weekly after the ride, when the chain is hot. The Tri-Flow is a light enough oil to be able to penetrate past the o-rings and lube the internal pins of each link of the chain.
It is amazing how much the chain will absorb when hot and the correct lubrication is used.
My current DID chain has over 10K on it and I only check & adjust it at every oil change if required.
Randy - RPM
Hey Mate, I`ve never pulled apart a worked chain link nor a new one. Given that all the main load bearing surfaces that need oil are on the inside of the O-rings has anyone checked or tested if oil gets passed these seals?
While I do the usual tricks (Hot chain, inside, watch fingers etc) I`m guessing you`re saying the oil seeps out of these O-rings (due to heat or pressure I guess) otherwise we wouldn`t be able to get this later applied lubricant into them. This of course means the thick no fling stuff, never makes its way into this area me thinks. But this could be a good thing if O rings seal correctly.
The face of the links that are not exposed, do they wear from say, grit? If so, is that an area that deteriorates the function of the chain enough to affect say, chain stretch or chain life? ...I don`t think so. I know that if I leave my DR for some months after a wet ride without chain lube that surface area can get rusty and cause a prob. But it was easy fixed with oil and a ride.
I guess I`m thinking new chains just need some non fling, anti rust coverage, old chains need thinner stuff, but be extra vigilant when lining up some fun on left hand corners. (Work`s better than "1 pound of certified "organic" Slippery Elm Bark by Starwest Botanical's"...if there`s oil on tha tyre & you`re constipated)
Note: I lazily thought it can`t and won`t fling onto the important section of the tyres...only the pretty outer face of these particular bias tyres....Never thought of it`s reverse tracking in those tyre grooves designed ta push water outwards. (got her all crossed up under power...which I kept on...heeeeehehe) :drinks:
Just found this: O-ring bike chain wear locations (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJJV5DHb95E#)
I can see merit in a chain guard that covers 180 deg of secondary sprocket. (along with scot oiler maybe)
Chainsaw oil in my DIY semi-auto chain oiler.
~4oz bottle fill lasts longer than an oil change and I re-fill it then.
I've had 54K kms (37K miles) out of a DID ZVM2 chain using this oiler.
Yeah, it is a bit messy but I no longer have a white rear wheel.
$400 for a Scott oiler? You must enjoy throwing away your money.
Quote from: The General on October 20, 2014, 07:13:43 PM
Just found this: O-ring bike chain wear locations (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJJV5DHb95E#)
I can see merit in a chain guard that covers 180 deg of secondary sprocket. (along with scot oiler maybe)
Interesting video. He concludes it is exclusively the pins that wear, (and he's probably largely right) but he made no attempt to determine whether the play in the worn chain was from pin wear, or from some elongation of the pin holes on the plates. I imagine it may be a combination of both. Interestingly, I have always lubricated that outer gap between plates to minimize that elongation-type wear, he seems to conclude it's a waste.
Dan
Dan
G'day,
When i bought my Fj she came with a scottoiler, a vacuum pump version running of the carb inlet balance tube. After a bit of google research and trial and error I discovered it to be great! For me the best combination was a 5 weight oil with some sticky additive.
I get very little "oil fling" and the chain is almost always clean. below is a link to the one I have, and it is pretty cheap for $120.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scottoiler-vSystem-Chain-Oiler-Kit-to-fit-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-Triumph-/350321890463?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5190cfd49f#ht_1388wt_662 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scottoiler-vSystem-Chain-Oiler-Kit-to-fit-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-Triumph-/350321890463?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5190cfd49f#ht_1388wt_662)
If I get another bike, I will be getting this type of scottoiler, not the expensive digital version.
Cheers, Gareth
Quote from: mr blackstock on October 21, 2014, 05:42:02 AM
G'day,
When i bought my Fj she came with a scottoiler, a vacuum pump version running of the carb inlet balance tube. After a bit of google research and trial and error I discovered it to be great! For me the best combination was a 5 weight oil with some sticky additive.
I get very little "oil fling" and the chain is almost always clean. below is a link to the one I have, and it is pretty cheap for $120.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scottoiler-vSystem-Chain-Oiler-Kit-to-fit-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-Triumph-/350321890463?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5190cfd49f#ht_1388wt_662 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scottoiler-vSystem-Chain-Oiler-Kit-to-fit-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-Triumph-/350321890463?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5190cfd49f#ht_1388wt_662)
If I get another bike, I will be getting this type of scottoiler, not the expensive digital version.
Cheers, Gareth
Yes Gareth, 99% of the testimonials swearing by the benefits of a Scott oiler were written about the vacuum models. The E-System oiler is probably aimed at gadget tragics and I don't believe does any better job of oiling the chain but does have some nifty features, are they worth another $200? Hmmm....maybe.
V or E, they are a great thing. As I mentioned, when first fitted the fling off was black and gritty, now it just perfectly clean, not that there is much of it but I do like to err on the oily side.
Noel
Quote from: Dan Filetti on October 21, 2014, 05:18:51 AM
Quote from: The General on October 20, 2014, 07:13:43 PM
Just found this: O-ring bike chain wear locations (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJJV5DHb95E#)
I can see merit in a chain guard that covers 180 deg of secondary sprocket. (along with scot oiler maybe)
Interesting video. He concludes it is exclusively the pins that wear, (and he's probably largely right) but he made no attempt to determine whether the play in the worn chain was from pin wear, or from some elongation of the pin holes on the plates. I imagine it may be a combination of both. Interestingly, I have always lubricated that outer gap between plates to minimize that elongation-type wear, he seems to conclude it's a waste.
Dan
Dan
It would be interesting to see if one can squash that worn length to achieve any noticeable difference in length. (back towards original length).
Would be an easy way to measure the difference between the combination of Pin wear (including any elongation on plates) and link stretch, me thinks.
If a difference existed after said squashing towards original size, than wouldn`t the new measurement be that of plate stretch exclusively?
I have used Bel-Ray Super clean chain lube for the last 4 or 5 years and like it. Very little if any fling off and when it comes time to clean and relube the chain, WD-40 and a rag takes it right off.
Let the flames begin... I use only WD40. Available anywhere, yes there is fling, but it does do a good job of penetrating into the chain. Of course, the debate is whether it is even a lubricant. I lube up the chain nearly every Friday, especially if I'm riding over the weekend. Over the last year, I've adjusted it for slack once, and had the rear tire changed, so again an adjustment, though I wasn't present. I check for tightness and slack when oiling, and notice no ill effects, and never any binding. I think the main thing is: lube the chain regularly. I have heard good and bad about chain waxes, and I'm not inclined to use them, due to the sand and grit issues. Just my couple of centavos.
I know it's an old thread, but I also use WD40. it is a water dispersant that will help prevent water from contaminating the factory lubricant inside the sealed pins, and also cleans the grit off the exterior of the chain.
It's easy to spray down the chain after a ride, not that messy for the next ride. I have had pretty good chain life on My FJ after switching to D40 rather than all the Snake Chain Oil's I used to try. YMMV....
Good for you. Whatever you're happy with and works for you.
I just bought a can of the Motorex Road Strong lube http://www.revzilla.com/product/motorex-road-chain-lube (http://www.revzilla.com/product/motorex-road-chain-lube)that someone had earlier endorsed, but I have yet to try it out.
I have been using the Tri-Flow that Randy sells. works good .
I have been using Dupont Chain-Saver wax based with Teflon for awhile. I do have a can of Tri-Flow that I will be giving a try.
Fred
Quote from: Mark Olson on April 26, 2015, 08:08:21 PM
I have been using the Tri-Flow that Randy sells. works good .
+1 cleans off easy and lubes the chain...