Recently signed up here.
I'm in the process of rebuilding the front brakes of my recently acquired 88 1100. I've bought all the kits I need and have prepped the calipers for repainting. However, I now find that I need to renew all 4 pistons which, at best I can find on ebay, will set me back an additional $200. But, last weekend at a swap meet I picked up a nice pair of 1200 forks along with a good LH caliper (gold type), MC, handlebars and triple tree, all for $70.
The restorer in me says keep it all original but my Scots blood is telling me I can do it cheaper by picking up working RH caliper.
Not sure which way to go.
Also is the fork swap otherwise straightforward, axle, fender, cable routing, etc or are some mods required?
Hi,
if your forks are 88 or newer then here is the link to do the swap.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4183.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4183.0)
If they are 86 -87 with the anti dives don't bother. They are an additional pane and they never work anyway.
Mark
Follow your Scot`s nose, but probly a pic of that "gold Type" caliper required. (could be subject to misinterpretation). (popcorn)
I haven't figured out the pic bit yet although I read the pinned info about it. Sounds complicated to this old luddite.
By gold type I mean the calipers are the 4 piston type as opposed to the siver 4 piston type. I imagine there is a common name for the different types that I've not learned yet.
Also, I made a typo, its an 84 1100, sorry.
I'll go read the link now.
Have made the fork swap and find that the 1100 axle is a little short by about 15mm. I need a 1200 (88 on I think) axle. Anyone have a spare?
Been a while since I started this thread but I eventually got the fork swap done. Wowever, I have a problem that I did not foresee. I now have 1200 forks and calipers (I think they are about 88/89 model) fitted to the 1100 with stock wheel and discs. I now find that the disc diameter is not enough to be covered completely by the brake pads, by about 15mm. I would like to keep the stock 16" wheel but from my point of view the only way out would be matching (88 or later) 1200 wheels. Any suggestions? Larger diam discs perhaps?
Been doing a little research in the meantime. Is it possible that Vmax 300mm rotors will fit the 16" 1100 wheel hub and line up with the 1200 4 pot calipers?
Has anyone seen/used/heard of these rotors? Would like to know if they would fit FJ1100 hub. Diameter looks right at 300mm.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-Front-Brake-Discs-Rotor-Fits-Yamaha-VMX-12-V-Max-1993-2007-VMX-1200-VMax-XVZ-/291397891981?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43d8aaf78d (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-Front-Brake-Discs-Rotor-Fits-Yamaha-VMX-12-V-Max-1993-2007-VMX-1200-VMax-XVZ-/291397891981?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43d8aaf78d)
I don't know specifically, but I do know how you can find an answer to your question
Along with other questions you may have like this one: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=5863.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=5863.0)
I have this type on my 84 1100 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Yamaha-VMX12-V-Max-VMX-12-1993-2007-93-07/331208595872?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3De8fb2f0d8c88409eb83fe1a91da485bc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D291397891981&rt=nc&tfrom=291397891981&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Yamaha-VMX12-V-Max-VMX-12-1993-2007-93-07/331208595872?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3De8fb2f0d8c88409eb83fe1a91da485bc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D291397891981&rt=nc&tfrom=291397891981&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal)
Quote from: Urban_Legend on May 21, 2015, 03:13:51 AM
I have this type on my 84 1100 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Yamaha-VMX12-V-Max-VMX-12-1993-2007-93-07/331208595872?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3De8fb2f0d8c88409eb83fe1a91da485bc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D291397891981&rt=nc&tfrom=291397891981&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Brake-Disc-Yamaha-VMX12-V-Max-VMX-12-1993-2007-93-07/331208595872?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3De8fb2f0d8c88409eb83fe1a91da485bc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D291397891981&rt=nc&tfrom=291397891981&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal)
Thanks UL but that listing is for rear VMAX (which is same as 1100 front), only 282mm diam. I need 300mm. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks for all the input. I've been gradually educating myself on disc swaps but it has been a slow process, reading through past threads which has been complicated by workers, installing part our national optic fibre network close by, severed our copper network cable which meant we were without land lines for 24hrs and then it was intermittant after that. Initially they reckoned it was gonna take about 2 weeks to get it fixed but it seems to have come good now. I use a land line for internet.
I have found these discs I need but they are a bit pricey compared to the Chinese ones (which look identical by the way).
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Brake-Disc-Yamaha-VMX12-V-Max-VMX-12-93-94-95-96-97-98-99-00-01-2002-2007-/260900581366 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Brake-Disc-Yamaha-VMX12-V-Max-VMX-12-93-94-95-96-97-98-99-00-01-2002-2007-/260900581366)
The only difference I can see is the grade of aluminum for the centre part, 7075 as compared to 6061 (Chinese). From what I've been able to find the 7000 grade is higher tensile strength to 6000 so should be better. Would this be a significant factor for its intended purpose?
Quote from: krusty on May 22, 2015, 02:11:18 AM
The only difference I can see is the grade of aluminum for the centre part, 7075 as compared to 6061 (Chinese). From what I've been able to find the 7000 grade is higher tensile strength to 6000 so should be better. Would this be a significant factor for its intended purpose?
In my opinion the 6061 material will work as well as the 7000 (likely 7075). I worked with a company that did its own metal manufacturing with a variety of metals including 50/60 and 70 series aluminum. You are more likely to break the front loose before the 6061 aluminum feels any stress. I have a set of Arashi wave rotors on my front, not sure what aluminum they use but they have been trouble free, including a few panic stops. However, we are talking about YOUR brakes so you need to fell comfortable and confident whit your choice. Keep us posted.
I've gone with these
http://vod.ebay.com.au/vod/FetchOrderDetails?ViewPaymentStatus&transId=1172451529019&itemId=291397891981&qu=1 (http://vod.ebay.com.au/vod/FetchOrderDetails?ViewPaymentStatus&transId=1172451529019&itemId=291397891981&qu=1)
For 230 Oz pesos shipped.
I don't ride my bikes hard and the 1100 is for VJMC club rides which are, usually, fairly sedate affairs.
In the meantime I've stripped the forks and replaced the seals and dust covers without removing the springs because I didn't the corredct tool for taking out the fork caps. While trolling fork conversion threads I came across a little gem of "how-to", using the rear axle nut, bewdy. Used with a tyre lever and shifter (metric of course) I had the caps out in no time.
(//)
I love that kind of ingenuity, when I had access to a 3000W laser cutter I had some of these made up, I gave away the extras.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/104_22_05_15_6_02_55.jpeg)
That is pretty clever Krusty. Here is mine. From memory it is an 18mm bolt, welded a 3/8 socket jambed on the end (yard sale socket).
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_09_11_13_9_26_59.jpeg)
George
I've got'em out now how do I get these suckers back in. I've got the preload wound to softest and I know that the rod has to line up somewhere down inside, and a couple of times I've managed to get the cap into the tube but missed getting the threads to take up and when I try again I can't get back to that point.
Am I missing something?
There is something wrong there. That short top spring shouldn't be there. A question, did you install the small spring on the dampener tube ? Someone has either added that extra small spring on top or that spring is the one that is suppose to be on the dampener tube. If all is done correctly with the bikes forks fully extended the threads of the cap should be close to touching internal threads of the tube. It is possable that someone added that spring in an attempt to increase the spring capcity instead of buying a new spring with the correct spring rate for there weight. Seems that with that added spring it would be hard to compress and align the "D" rod with it's slot all at the same time?
Not the best picture but the spring I am referring to is on the dampener.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_09_11_13_9_42_14.jpeg)
George
Check to se that the washers on top of the spring fit down past the threads. As I recall, the 92 3xw washers are slightly different than the 89 3cv. Maybe same issue in your case?
Jeff
I've just had a look at the service manual for these 1200 forks. They are pre 1991 and I have measured the spring length as 484mm which is well within spec. I have no idea why these extra springs have been fitted, and, when I first removed the fork caps the spring adjuster was on max preload. WTF? No wonder I was having trouble getting the caps back on. I'll be back in the grage tomorrow and I'll try again without the extra springs. I'll measure the oil level while I'm at it.
Hold on....
If my bad memory serves me right these "extra" springs were also inside my forks when I opened them a while ago, so is it possible that there is a difference between years of manufacture and they may be supposed to be there?
This is not my territory so I will let someone that knows better chime in....
And by the way, mine is '86
I just checked the parts catalog for my '86 found here http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=692.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=692.0)
and I see that the little "extra"spring is there (see item 31 & 70)
Brgds.
Magnus
Mine are later forks, without the antidive, to the ones in the .pdf which I did see while I was researching this. This is the pdf I found http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=695.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=695.0)
The internals are much the same but, as far as I can determine, the parts diagram only shows 2 springs whereas my forks contain 3 springs (each). Am I making sense or am I looking at this wrong.
That extra spring (between the 2 washers) is not supposed to be there.
As was stated already, someone probably added it to gain a little more pre-load, or spring-rate to the forks.
I would remove it, and ride it for awhile to see how you like the setting.
Most people use a solid spacer (section of PVC, or metal pipe) to gain some more preload. Or step up to a stiffer-rate spring.
Quote from: Firehawk068 on May 25, 2015, 11:44:50 AM
...Or step up to a stiffer-rate spring.
+1 The '89/90 stock spring rate at .644 kg/mm has proved to be weak sauce for our heavy FJ's although probably the maximum rate the damper rod design can handle (without cartridge emulators)
Still, the '89/90 oem rates are better than the oem '91-93 oem springs @ .475 kg/mm.....
Aoogah, aoogah, aoogah, dive, dive dive..( I threw that in for Commander Frank)
Silly question, but do you have the bike jacked up so the front wheel is off the ground and forks fully extended ?
Today I removed the extra spring and washer and the fork caps went back in as they should. I've done dozens of fork overhauls in years past and never had the trouble that these gave me. The forks are now back on the bike but I can't test ride it yet until the new rotors arrive from China. Will report back.
Quote from: Firehawk068 on May 25, 2015, 11:44:50 AM
As was stated already, someone probably added it to gain a little more pre-load, or spring-rate to the forks.
Stacking 2 (or more) springs on top of each other actually results in a spring rate that is less than the smallest rate. At least until the weaker spring is totally collapsed. Then it acts as a spacer and the rate changes to the rate of the spring that's not coil bound.
Happy to report that the new brake rotors arrived from China today. Purchased off ebay 23/5 arrived 28/5, that must be some sort of record out of China. Most impressed with how they were packed and they appear to be good quality, well made. So what did I do today, yep, fitted them. Front end is all back together now. Only have to fill engine with oil and test ride.
After about 300klm these new rotors are working just fine. Very happy with them. Went on a VJMC ride last Sunday of about 250klm, with wifey on the back, and brakes are excellent. The new fork seals I put in are not leaking either.