Been wanting to upgrade my headlight and have been looking at all the usual options and ordered one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281427044978?item=281427044978&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281427044978?item=281427044978&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr). Should be here later this week for an unofficial review.
About anything is better than the stock bulb. On my winter "to do" list is some lighting improvements for FJ front and rear. The headlight is a start.
George
As a disclaimer I have nothing to do with the seller of this product. It is just one I picked out off e bay. There are others.
I have been curious about this for awhile..............................I was actually considering them for my Jeep..............I'm anxious to see how they work for you.
Not a bad price relative to the cost of one of the Silverstar bulbs, that I put in my FJs. Plus your has a turbo fan.
Let us know how it turns out for you.
I have ran those Silverstar Ultra's before and they work good but don't last as long as the lower wattage units. I almost pulled the trigger on an HID unit but there are a few things that bother me. They put out a lot of light but the ones I have seen seem to "spray" a lot of light. The LED might be the same.? The only way I can tell much is to buy one and try it. The price isn't that bad, about the same as a cheaper HID and about 2 times what a Silverstar costs. But IF it lasts longer the cost might be close. This one claims 10,000 hours, some claim up to 30,000 hours. 10,000 hours is about 3 1/2 years of running 8 hours a day 7 days a week. 30,000 hours would be 3 times that. Not that I believe there figures. Only time will tell.
One problem to be solved is that I would like to have a pulsating headlight (for day light running) and the normal pulsating flasher units on the market will not work well with the LED's. The on/off time for LED's is to quick and it makes the light more like a emergency flasher which is illegal. Just a note for someone to think about if converting and currently running pulsating headlight.
The bulb has been shipped and should be here Thursday so I will give it a try. I will attempt to take some before and after pictures. At least evaluate the light pattern and strength.
IMO safety wise the more light you can put up front the better and if you can get the light moving or pulsating even better yet.
George
The life hours are deceiving. Those hours are continuous operation.
Most bulbs don't just blow when they're on. They typically blow when the bulb is turned on due to the high inrush current.
George,
Verrry interesting. Please let us know how well it works for you.
Re: Pulsating for daytime use.... If you could make a circuit to change state from "lo" to "hi" that might give the effect you want. I'm guessing that on "lo", only 2 of the Cree XML chips are powered.
I wonder how you'll be able to operate the locating clip to hold this lamp in the socket.
Quote from: Arnie on September 08, 2014, 09:26:54 PM
George,
Verrry interesting. Please let us know how well it works for you.
Re: Pulsating for daytime use.... If you could make a circuit to change state from "lo" to "hi" that might give the effect you want. I'm guessing that on "lo", only 2 of the Cree XML chips are powered.
I wonder how you'll be able to operate the locating clip to hold this lamp in the socket.
Good question on the clip. The answer is I don't know (who's on third base) for those that are old enough, yet.... :lol: I guess to loosly slip the clip ahead of the fan and then put it in the mount ? Right now if I unclip my bulb the clip will actually fall out! The metal tab on the left that is the clip hinge needs to be squeezed in to keep the clip captured. It was a challenge to put my last bulb in as you an well imagine. I plan on fixing that with this bulb change.
On the pulsating I think the problem is the fast on/off time of the LED. A quartz bulb dies slowly and never go's totally off with the typical pulsar units on the market. The LED go 0-100%-0. I have been doing some reading on narrowing up the pulse width to get the same effect. It has to be very fast to simulate what you typically see. Did you know there is actually a DOD standard / rule that applies to this. :dash2:
It is not a big issue but I would like to have that feature. There is another feature that might be nice to design, a time delay of a few seconds (5-10) before the headlight turns on. Making more current available for the starter. Trivia.
Yes, I don't put any stock in what they say about life hours. And if I can indeed pulse it then there go's that number.
George
Somewhat applicable:
Someone on TacomaWorld is using this brand: https://www.lifetimeledlights.com/products/category/headlights (https://www.lifetimeledlights.com/products/category/headlights) and so far loves them. They seem to work well in certain housings and not as well in others.
A friend of mine just installed this very unit in his KLM. I don't know about the light pattern but it is BRIGHT!!! Dave
I'm very interested in how the bulb performs George. I was considering buying an LED bulb, but decided to wait until my HID bulb craps out.
I recently installed 2 LED spotlights like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-12V-30W-CREE-U2-LED-Fog-Spot-Head-Light-Waterproof-Working-Lamp-Black-/201103802443?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed2b8804b&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-12V-30W-CREE-U2-LED-Fog-Spot-Head-Light-Waterproof-Working-Lamp-Black-/201103802443?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed2b8804b&vxp=mtr)
They fit quite nicely on the Renntech engine bars. I installed them with a remote dimmer switch and a relay that turns them on full brightness when the high beam is switched on. I am very happy with them so far. Coupled with the 55 watt HID, there is an incredible amount of light coming from the front of my FJ.
Derek
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on September 08, 2014, 09:21:46 PM
The life hours are deceiving. Those hours are continuous operation.
On some other forum, that I was trolling for information on headlight relay mods, one poster who seemed electrically-savvy, stated that for every extra volt supplied to the bulb's filament that was over its rating (I assume that is 12V), its hours life decreased by X amount. Made sense to me. If one drives the headlight mod directly from the battery, by virtue of the battery's charging voltage, it would be seeing +12V continuously.
I gladly accept the decreased life for the increase in candlepower/lumens.
Quote from: movenon on September 08, 2014, 10:08:00 PM
On the pulsating I think the problem is the fast on/off time of the LED. A quartz bulb dies slowly and never go's totally off with the typical pulsar units on the market. The LED go 0-100%-0. I have been doing some reading on narrowing up the pulse width to get the same effect. It has to be very fast to simulate what you typically see. Did you know there is actually a DOD standard / rule t
George
For your LED pulsating, modulating, perhaps this may work...
http://www.kriss.com/universalledmod.php (http://www.kriss.com/universalledmod.php)
I've read reports on other forums, about riders with headlight modulators being pulled over by Law Enforcement, then the LEO being suprised that the modulator is legal in their state. One rider went so far as to carrying a document on his person to prove it.
I've seen the modulators in use. They are maddening to view, but very effective. Really makes the bike stand out, when it is coming at you.
Quote from: FJ1100mjk on September 09, 2014, 06:39:01 AM
Quote from: movenon on September 08, 2014, 10:08:00 PM
On the pulsating I think the problem is the fast on/off time of the LED. A quartz bulb dies slowly and never go's totally off with the typical pulsar units on the market. The LED go 0-100%-0. I have been doing some reading on narrowing up the pulse width to get the same effect. It has to be very fast to simulate what you typically see. Did you know there is actually a DOD standard / rule t
George
For your LED pulsating, modulating, perhaps this may work...
http://www.kriss.com/universalledmod.php (http://www.kriss.com/universalledmod.php)
I've read reports on other forums, about riders with headlight modulators being pulled over by Law Enforcement, then the LEO being surprised that the modulator is legal in their state. One rider went so far as to carrying a document on his person to prove it.
I've seen the modulators in use. They are maddening to view, but very effective. Really makes the bike stand out, when it is coming at you.
Thanks for the link ! Gives me more to information.
I gather that in some states headlight laws did or do conflict with DOT federal law. I think most states have changed there code to comply with DOT federal law referring to modulating headlights for motorcycles. It was something invented after there code was written in most cases.
This Federal law supersedes all state laws and makes motorcycle headlight modulators legal in all 50 states. FMVSS 108 (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards) (49 CFR Part 571.108 S7.9.4) allows
motorcycle headlight modulation systems all 50 states provided they comply with the standards set forth in this section. Title 49 USC 30103 (b1) (US Codes) prohibits any state from forbidding a system that conforms to FMVSS 108 (//http://)
The law applies to motorcycles only. It is illegal for cars to use as I understand it. The modulator has to meet spec's and for daytime use only.
I read where some carry a copy of the DOT federal law with them just in case they get stopped. To be honest there are probably officers that are not acquainted with the law as it only applies to motorcycles and any flashing light probably gets there attention (see it works). Now if for "some reason" you don't want there attention you might subdue the light or turn it off (put a switch in the ground leg ?). Choices, always choices.
Derek: I like those flame throwers! They will be next. I prewired and relayed for running lights during the rebuild but haven't installed any yet. They are next. Right now I have to get the LED bulb on the bench and see if the mounting clip will clear or spring over as per Arnie's comment. I have an extra headlight assembly on the bench to play with before I try to do it blind and upside down.
George
"I have an extra headlight assembly on the bench to play with before I try to do it blind and upside down.
George"
:lol: :rofl:
Mike Ramos is also working on converting to an LED headlight. He is using a slightly different style of LED. I mentioned to him to feel free to jump in on this thread with his review and comments. The more information the better. :good2: His LED headlight sounds good also.
George
Looking at various LED H4's on the internet, my guess is that they will be crap! A normal H4 bulb has an element precisely located, the reflector needs this to focus the light. the LED ones are not one point of emitted light, so the reflector will end up scattering light.
I was also concerned about scattering light all over the place that is one of the reasons I didn't get an HID and went with an LED. It seems to be pretty good so far. LOT better than a stock bulb. In mine the position of the LED is the same as the halogen element and faces up with no direct forward light. Good or bad there are a number of designs some of which like you say scatter light all over the place. The back side of the LED is solid, no LED's facing the other way.
Here is the one I am using. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281427044978?item=281427044978&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281427044978?item=281427044978&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_11_09_14_3_25_05.jpeg)
Here is a style that probably is not as good. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pack2-White-Super-Bright-80W-HB2-H4-Cree-XB-D-LED-Headlight-Low-Beam-Head-Bulb-/131188832641?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8b76b981&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pack2-White-Super-Bright-80W-HB2-H4-Cree-XB-D-LED-Headlight-Low-Beam-Head-Bulb-/131188832641?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8b76b981&vxp=mtr)
There are some specific problems in mounting a LED headlight in the FJ. Mechanically if the heat sink or fan is to large on the end of the bulb you will not be able to get the FJ headlight bulb retaining clip back on holding the bulb in.
The fan diameter on the one I am using is 38mm and IMO that is the max size you can use and you have to develop a technique to get it clipped. I had to loosely fit the bulb then push in the lower part of the spring under the fan then reach on top and force the top part of the clip over then latch it.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_11_09_14_3_32_16.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_11_09_14_3_39_04.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_11_09_14_3_27_33.jpeg)
Now that I know the the mounting problem I will be looking for an easier LED to mount. I can do this one in the blind now but it took a while with a spare headlight on the bench to develop a system. The LED came with a "LED driver" box. It is small, about the size of 2 match books stacked on top of each other. I just Velcro-ed it to the bottom inside side of the fairing. Very small aluminum box probably for controlling the fan but that is a guess.
I am still sorting out some small issues with the bike and hope to have it out this week end for more testing. But here in the garage the LED is fantastic and it is easier for me to see any light scattering and pattern in the large light colored enclosed space.
Next will be LED running lights.
George
George, looking at the mfgr's sales sheet, I thought you installed the H-4 collar first, then the actual led unit fit in a (white) barrel that is mounted in the center of the collar.
Does that cooling fan blow any air inside the headlight housing? i.e.dust problems?
I tried to separate the fan but was unable to. That said there are models out there that the fan can be installed on after the LED is put in place and cliped which is the way to go. I was lucky and was able to get it cliped, but I had to figure a drill out to do it. Any LED with an attached fan larger than 38mm IMO will not work. I had an old headlight assembly to practice on until I was convinced that I could do it. Still was bit of a challenge.
I will carry the old bulb with me for a "field" repair. Can't get a replacement LED headlight bulb at Walmart.. :lol:
Tell you the truth I didn't check which way the fan was blowing. I will try tomorrow. In the dead silence of the garage if you listen real closely you can hear the fan. Any ambient noise and you (I) can't hear it and with the engine running nothing. The LED fit's pretty tight up against the reflector housing but dust is dust.... I trimmed the dust boot to fit but it is not as tight as it could be. Fist go around...
I adjusted the light as per European MOT spec's against the garage door, Wish I would have checked it with the old halogen so I had something to compare the pattern to.. Looks pretty good, it doesn't have a real sharp cut off like a projector lens but to me it looks good. Next time a stock FJ comes over I will check it. The light is around 6000K and bright to say the least. Lot better than stock.
How I adjusted the headlight:
With me on the bike I had a helper measure up to the center of the headlight.
Marked on the garage door the height with a piece of tape.
Set the headlight/bike back 12 1/2 feet.
Adjusted the low beam, top edge of the hot spot down about 1- 1 1/2 inch's below the tape mark.
Don't know if that's correct but that's how I did it. Actual road test will verify.
One note. At under 1000 RPM the light modulates a little above 1000-1100 RPM it stabilizes. Doesn't bother me, it just happens.
I can't say that I would recommend the LED that I got because it presents a challenge to install in the FJ. The light quality is 6000K white to almost blue. Like daylight. It throws out a lot of light ! I think there are LED headlights that are easier to install on the market I just haven't had time to go looking yet.
Hoping this information will help someone else thinking about an LED headlight.
Next will be LED running lights.
I will take it out tomorrow night for a run about. I have been fixing a few other small ill's. I knew I had a "concern" before the WCR but nothing that couldn't wait until after the rally and no one would even notice. Yea, right. The unofficial WCR FJ tech inspector took about 1 minute to spot my front brake line was a little tight in the bend. Can't get away with shit :dash1:. Anyhow it's fixed now Pat :good2:.
George
What happens if the cooling fan stops working? How hot does this run, I use LED GU10's in my kitchen, replacing the 50 watt spotlamps, the LED replacements are rated at 5watts, and only get warm to the touch. They use 10% of the power of the conventional spots, this LED H4 uses 60%, I would have thought it was blinding? i have in the past used 9watt CREE fog lamps, they were bright enough!
Quote from: ELIMINATOR on September 13, 2014, 02:36:47 AM
What happens if the cooling fan stops working? How hot does this run, I use LED GU10's in my kitchen, replacing the 50 watt spotlamps, the LED replacements are rated at 5watts, and only get warm to the touch. They use 10% of the power of the conventional spots, this LED H4 uses 60%, I would have thought it was blinding? i have in the past used 9watt CREE fog lamps, they were bright enough!
I don't have a lot of solid answers yet as I have just recently installed the LED and need some night time riding to evaluate the light in the real world. I know it is a
lot brighter, the pattern is different, seems to fill in light lower plus brighter, consumes 50% less power and has a high kelvin rating which some like and some don't.
The LED is rated at 20 watt's consumption for 2000 lm and 30 watt's at 3000 lm's of light. So 20 watts or approx 1.52 amps depending on the voltage for low or "dipped" beam and 2.8 amp draw on high beam. The lm rating puts it up there with a Hella 100/80 bulb (2900 lm) with an average life of only 100 hours, standard 55 watt bulb is rated at 500 hours. Although it seems I get more life out of them than that. The LED's rated life span is 10,000 to 30,000 hours depending on which Chinese advertisement you are looking at. The LED color temp is up at 6000K which is like daylight.
Choices for a brighter headlight in an FJ:
Upgrade the stock bulb to a higher wattage unit (more current draw, more heat, shorter life span, watch the connectors for melting)
Convert to an HID
Convert to a LED
One member with a lot of talent has converted to a projector bulb.
Long term issues using an LED headlight are yet to be determined. On low beam consuming 20 watt's I don't think it will get to hot. The LED's are mounted on a thick machined aluminum heat sink. And the FJ reflector area is large with a thick glass front.
How does changing your headlight bulb effect the MOT testing over there? Here in the states we are spoiled (or lucky) in that respect. I plan on adding another 2000 -3000 lm (15-30 watts) of running lights next.
George
Quote from: Derek Young on September 09, 2014, 01:43:48 AM
I'm very interested in how the bulb performs George. I was considering buying an LED bulb, but decided to wait until my HID bulb craps out.
I recently installed 2 LED spotlights like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-12V-30W-CREE-U2-LED-Fog-Spot-Head-Light-Waterproof-Working-Lamp-Black-/201103802443?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed2b8804b&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-12V-30W-CREE-U2-LED-Fog-Spot-Head-Light-Waterproof-Working-Lamp-Black-/201103802443?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed2b8804b&vxp=mtr)
They fit quite nicely on the Renntech engine bars. I installed them with a remote dimmer switch and a relay that turns them on full brightness when the high beam is switched on. I am very happy with them so far. Coupled with the 55 watt HID, there is an incredible amount of light coming from the front of my FJ.
Derek
Looks interesting.
And I LOVE the mashed-up English in the description! haha:
- The world's top American original CREE-U2 light bead,outside the brightness of the stars
- Night driving be obviously strong pillar
- Unique square spot suitable for pavement super province electricity night driving more fuel efficient more secure absolutely not deficit battery
- Function: Continuous switch a super white head,two near the light,flashing three invincible
Quote from: Bminder on September 13, 2014, 04:04:45 PM
Quote from: Derek Young on September 09, 2014, 01:43:48 AM
I'm very interested in how the bulb performs George. I was considering buying an LED bulb, but decided to wait until my HID bulb craps out.
I recently installed 2 LED spotlights like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-12V-30W-CREE-U2-LED-Fog-Spot-Head-Light-Waterproof-Working-Lamp-Black-/201103802443?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed2b8804b&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-12V-30W-CREE-U2-LED-Fog-Spot-Head-Light-Waterproof-Working-Lamp-Black-/201103802443?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed2b8804b&vxp=mtr)
They fit quite nicely on the Renntech engine bars. I installed them with a remote dimmer switch and a relay that turns them on full brightness when the high beam is switched on. I am very happy with them so far. Coupled with the 55 watt HID, there is an incredible amount of light coming from the front of my FJ.
Derek
Looks interesting.
And I LOVE the mashed-up English in the description! haha:
- The world's top American original CREE-U2 light bead,outside the brightness of the stars
- Night driving be obviously strong pillar
- Unique square spot suitable for pavement super province electricity night driving more fuel efficient more secure absolutely not deficit battery
- Function: Continuous switch a super white head,two near the light,flashing three invincible
Hey, I don't speak Chinese either :). They make the same exact light now with a CREE-U3 which is a little brighter. Both are on ebay you just need to read the description. Another model is out there with a CREE U5 they claim 125W equivalent. Probably looks like an arc welder coming down the road.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CREE-U5-3000LM-LED-Waterproof-Handle-Bar-Driving-Fog-Spot-HeadLight-For-Suzuki-/331318212988?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d241ab97c&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CREE-U5-3000LM-LED-Waterproof-Handle-Bar-Driving-Fog-Spot-HeadLight-For-Suzuki-/331318212988?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d241ab97c&vxp=mtr)
George
After seeing a thread on a VFR board about using the CREE LED lamps in one of those bikes and the difference it made, I am very tempted to go the LED route.
Nice that George saw the same improvement in the amount of light on the road just in front of the bike. Same results on the VFR thread.
Thanks for posting this up! :)
Quote from: pdxfj on September 14, 2014, 12:51:11 AM
After seeing a thread on a VFR board about using the CREE LED lamps in one of those bikes and the difference it made, I am very tempted to go the LED route.
Nice that George saw the same improvement in the amount of light on the road just in front of the bike. Same results on the VFR thread.
Thanks for posting this up! :)
I took it out for a longer evaluation and for me it is a big improvement. But I have been running a stock rated headlight bulb. Reviews and pictures are a bit subjective. What I have noticed is the pattern is good. It seems to provide more ambient light up close and still projects plenty of light down the road. The high beam fills in and adds light but not as noticeable as one might think. The low beam is plenty. On low beam I can see a reflective end of the road barrier sign at 1/2 mile away clearly. The 6000K light really reflects on signs. Standing back and looking at the bike (as an on coming car) the bike headlight is very visible.
Adding visibility is a big part of what I am trying to do. I can see that when I get LED running lights mounted that I will be extremely visible head on day or night and have all the light needed.
In the pictures below the dumpster is slightly over 200 feet away and the picture doesn't pick up all the light that was there it was taken hand held. The "hot spot" starts at about 4 paces in front of the bike and go's out to around 20 more paces on low. The head on shot, the bike is on the side stand and with a rider on board the light pattern will drop down a little. Also I need to adjust my lateral adjustment to the right slightly.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_14_09_14_9_33_45.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_14_09_14_9_35_15.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_14_09_14_9_36_26.jpeg)
George
You know, it's amaing what you can find on the Internet. I went looking around trying to figure out the difference between all of the lumen and watt ratings of the led bulbs and stumbled upon this.
http://www.edn.com/electronics-products/other/4421297/Cree-rolls-LEDs-with-double-lumen-density-and-50--less-power (http://www.edn.com/electronics-products/other/4421297/Cree-rolls-LEDs-with-double-lumen-density-and-50--less-power)
Seems like the Cree cxa 1520 is the new big led chip since last September. Still gotta find an h4 packaged one though.
Quote from: skymasteres on September 19, 2014, 03:20:09 PM
You know, it's amaing what you can find on the Internet. I went looking around trying to figure out the difference between all of the lumen and watt ratings of the led bulbs and stumbled upon this.
http://www.edn.com/electronics-products/other/4421297/Cree-rolls-LEDs-with-double-lumen-density-and-50--less-power (http://www.edn.com/electronics-products/other/4421297/Cree-rolls-LEDs-with-double-lumen-density-and-50--less-power)
Seems like the Cree cxa 1520 is the new big led chip since last September. Still gotta find an h4 packaged one though.
That's good information Mike ! I like the toning down of the Kelvin. I am not complaining but I personally would like to be at 4500-5000 Kelvin. I am sure that chip will show up in an H4 soon. We need an H4 that designed to install in our headlights. Some of the current LED H4's I don't think will fit into our headlights due to how they are clipped in. Something for anyone wanting to buy one to think about.
George
The laws over here in England are outdated! The use of 100w headlamp bulbs are illegal, yet, an HID is far brighter. The rule makers have not caught up with technology, only relating the wattage of the filament, as opposed to the lumens emitted!!!
Quote from: ELIMINATOR on September 20, 2014, 05:49:54 AM
The laws over here in England are outdated! The use of 100w headlamp bulbs are illegal, yet, an HID is far brighter. The rule makers have not caught up with technology, only relating the wattage of the filament, as opposed to the lumens emitted!!!
Is it possible you have the same law as us. HID's are legal, but only on vehicles with self levelling suspension.
Noel
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 11, 2014, 09:58:42 PM
George, looking at the mfgr's sales sheet, I thought you installed the H-4 collar first, then the actual led unit fit in a (white) barrel that is mounted in the center of the collar.
Does that cooling fan blow any air inside the headlight housing? i.e.dust problems?
LED update:Pat, I removed the LED headlight in the pictures above in the first post to run some tests and discovered as you noted. The
H4 base plate will unlock from the LED element, I just wasn't twisting hard enough I guess. Anyhow that makes the LED that I am using in the pictures above easy to change now.
The fan sucks in air over the fins. The bulb seals to the headlight reflector ok but not like using a gasket. Some models of LED headlights use a heat sink system instead of a fan.
The heat generated is warm but not hot in anyway. The small driver box also gets warm. Nothing to be alarmed about IMO. More testing tonight using a different manufacture of LED. Lots of variations of LED's, LED mounting position, reflectors etc..
Compared to close to or stock headlight I am happy with the LED. Less power, instant on, lot more light, more visible to on coming traffic.
These are next http://www.ebay.com/itm/271556269155?item=271556269155&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/271556269155?item=271556269155&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr).
George
Hi,
I just purchased one off Ebay. Just waiting until it arrives. Hopefully I will still be riding and there is no snow when it gets here lol. Just wondering, if the beam level seems ok on my halogen bulb do I need to adjust after the install? I wouldn't think so unless the beam is totally different. I realize it will be stronger but since it is the same dimensions and the fact that it does have the same light pattern as the original, bulb wise, then I shouldn't need to adjust.
Mark
I had to adjust mine. I tried a second manufacture of an LED headlight and had to adjust it again. I would plan on adjusting it. Its easy to do if your adjusters are in working shape. For me it was the vertical adjustment that changed the most. Not a bad idea to spend some time and adjust it where it should be.
George
I received the LED headlight and installed it. It is amazingly more bright than stock. I just have to adjust a little higher than the stock bulb but I am very impressed.
Mark
I just installed mine this week and am amazed by how much brighter. Now I have to get some led light on the rear. Dave
I got a bargain on a headlight pulsating module from a local dealer. Before I got around to installing it, I had the chance to go by two riders (separate occasions) who were coming toward me on more or less open rural highways. I was somewhat startled both
times by just how conspicuous it made them. Like from a mile away, I'm thinking WTF is
that coming towards me ? Ambulance,, cop,, emergency response ? I had no idea, and I admit openly to feeling a bit foolish realizing what they were when they went by.
Personally, I have no desire to announce my presence, impending or otherwise, to all and sundry on the road. The stock exhaust on my 90 is very quiet, most times we (Mr FJ and I) don't even turn heads.I think the lack of attention this wins me has allowed me
to garner far fewer encounters with the Revenue Collectors Motor Patrol and others of their ilk. When traveling at the velocity the FJ is comfy with, well, you understand.
I do, however recognize how effective the pulsing thing is at getting the attention
of other drivers.
I figured how to get the benefit of the thing selectively. The device uses fairly crude internals, you can hear the relay when it works. My headlamp is just a 100 watt H4.
I have wired the relay to be triggered by my horn. I have tandem electrics, hi and low pitch, they are very loud . (forklift truck accessories!) They make people jump.
The flasher operates for about 5 cycles with a single touch of the horn button.
I use it sparingly but it is very effective. Mr Police have showed no interest, which is just the way I like it!
Quote from: Earl Svorks on November 20, 2014, 11:58:50 PM
My headlamp is just a 100 watt H4.
Hey Earl,
I picked up on the above comment in your last post. I'm currently running a stock wattage headlamp with the relay mod for full voltage at the bulb. It's ...ehhh...adequate. After riding behind a few FJ riders using HID setups (I can't ride in front of them at night as the light of a thousand suns would melt my tail light!!) it would be nice to have a few more lumens.
I really like the flat, even light distribution and simplicity of a stock H4 bulb. Did you just replace the stock wattage bulb with a 100 watt H4 bulb? Are these commonly available?
Quote from: Capn Ron on November 21, 2014, 01:17:24 AM
Hey Earl,
I picked up on the above comment in your last post. I'm currently running a stock wattage headlamp with the relay mod for full voltage at the bulb. It's ...ehhh...adequate. After riding behind a few FJ riders using HID setups (I can't ride in front of them at night as the light of a thousand suns would melt my tail light!!) it would be nice to have a few more lumens.
I really like the flat, even light distribution and simplicity of a stock H4 bulb. Did you just replace the stock wattage bulb with a 100 watt H4 bulb? Are these commonly available?
Join the HID club Ron, it is way better than the DARK side.... But LEDs seems to have some potential, keep us posted dude....
Quote from: Earl Svorks on November 20, 2014, 11:58:50 PM
I got a bargain on a headlight pulsating module from a local dealer.......
"Earl", not sure about the benefits of this on a headlight full time but I do like your idea of having it hooked up to the horn or maybe the high beam flash button.
I have one on my brake light with LED globes, it is adjustable for flash rate and duration. I have even had people comment on it at traffic lights as to how effective it is as they have come up behind me.
Noel
Ron, 100w with a relay, no worries, just make sure the lamp plug is ceramic.....
Lesson learned...
Can't really add to much. I run an LED headlight. It is brighter and easier for other drivers to spot than the stock bulb. I think it is because of the bright white/blue color it emits and more lumen's than a stock bulb. The HID bulb from what I have seen puts out more light but the pattern is also difficult to control but as with the LED headlights there are a bunch of different manufactures all with slightly different approaches to emulating a true H4 Halogen pattern. It is the "wild west" with aftermarket HID and LED bulbs.
The high output Halogen's (90 or 100 watt bulbs) probably put out as much or more light as the LED headlight but for me the shorter life expectancy of the bulb, heat and high current consumption are negatives. IMO the FJ electrical system is not overly robust in it's design. Adequate is about the best I can say. Now add heated grips, running lights, extra 12V/5V outlets for GPS, cell phone, charging port in some cases higher current draw horn or horns and you can tax the electrical system. While I am at it the stock FJ battery is also in that "adequate" category but nothing to brag about. Just an opinion.
As a note you can not use a typical headlight modulator with the LED bulb as it switch's from full on to full off faster than a Halogen bulb (no dimming effect). It is pretty much instant on or off. There is at least one manufacture that makes a special LED headlight modulator so it can be done, just expensive at present. China will probably fix that....
I like to think the LED headlight will last a lot longer but that has yet to be determined. It takes off load from the electrical system and is brighter than stock. Here in the US where the headlight runs with the ignition on that can't be all bad. I have converted every light on my bike to LED's except the turn signals and the low fuel bulb in the instrument cluster. Someday I will convert the turn signals and make a few other electrical mods to make things more efficient.
George
I know that LED's are the future, absolutely....I'm just not sure on the durability....I'll be watching your long term results closely.
Thank you George, Mark and Dave for doing this...
Hey Guys,
In answer to questions/comments from interested peers.
I was never really impressed by the FJ headlight, even from brand new. The brighter bulb helps but I'd be open to another type , be it HID, or LED. Seems every other car on the road at 5am when I'm going to work has way more light than my Mazda commuter and my FJ combined.
The 100 W H4 is not so difficult to find. Bike shops, performance car outfits,, seek and ye shall find.
Yes they do make a bit more heat. I had the light go out on a trip. It turned out to be ground failure in the socket. Aside from the heat the bulb generates, it's current draw
makes it more important that you eliminate any voltage drop across any connectors involved. A connector that has been unplugged a couple of times is where you'll find a
terminal whose fit has loosened up. You don't really feel it in a gang plug until you remove the individual spade or pin socket. This condition will generate enough heat to blacken and or melt a plastic gang plug. Seems half the motorcycles I look at will have signs of this at the alternator output plug, or at the rectifier.
The brake light is one place where I'll take all the attention I can get. I agree, a modulator is a very good idea here.
I have long been a fan of the maintenance free battery. It's advantages are clear compared with the wet lead/acid style. I see that there are more recent developments
in this field. Smaller, lighter, more CCA at higher voltage, bring it on!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 21, 2014, 01:03:07 PM
I know that LED's are the future, absolutely....I'm just not sure on the durability....I'll be watching your long term results closely.
Thank you George, Mark and Dave for doing this...
I agree with watching the durability issue. It is an unknown at this time. I have my old bulb tucked away on the bike, just in case.
Earl, I agree also about the spade connectors. Like others I have found what appears to be a good connector on the outside to be not so good inside.
I recommend everyone check this line and plug coming from the alternator at least once every few years. New ceramic headlight connector is nice, mandatory if you want to run 100 watts or an HID without future problems.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_30_04_14_9_21_26.jpeg)
The following is just stuff I am playing with, or did until the cold weather set in.
I am at present running a LiFePo battery and have been experimenting with super capacitor boost packs. The battery weighs 2.05 lbs and they (?) claim 360 CCA.. yea, right.. Time will tell. The capacitor boost packs are interesting. I have used it on my diesel truck and for a while used it with no battery in the FJ. Almost took it to the WCR that way but ran out of nerve... The short of it is the "boost pack" alone will start the FJ with gusto but if and when you run out of power (won't start) you are dead in the water quickly. So you need a battery back up for a "recharge" of the pack which happens in about 120 seconds. I made a 3 amp battery pack and it worked fine but I didn't care for the battery design (safety's).
I then put in the LiFePo battery for the FJ and now am thinking about adding a smaller capacity boost pack.
It is not required I am just interested in them. It gives a power boost on start up, taking the load off the battery. The pack is mostly just capacitors and the weight is minimal.
In the picture below the boost pack is the blue capacitors on the left side. The green batteries are the ones I used as back up. The center is a typical 84-90 FJ battery.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_16_05_14_8_06_36.jpeg)
This is when I was running it with no battery. Terminals were not hooked up at the time.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_16_05_14_8_07_58.jpeg)
More about boost packs: (in the video he uses an RC battery pack as a back up, please don't do this. RC batteries do not have safety's or balancing circuits built into them) and there are other construction issues. But it shows the capability of the system.
Mini BoostPack 12V Capacitor Car Battery Update (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8miq6sDy0wA#ws)
Future electrical mods planned for the FJ is a timer circuit (or plain old switch) to disable the headlight turn on for 60 +- seconds after the ignition switch is turned on. Having more energy available for the starting system ? Helpful if you have a low battery.
Install coil relay giving full voltage to the coils.
Sorry for the long post... Winter time.
George
Quote from: movenon on November 21, 2014, 05:39:49 PM
Future electrical mods planned for the FJ is a timer circuit (or plain old switch) to disable the headlight turn on for 60 +- seconds after the ignition switch is turned on. Having more energy available for the starting system ? Helpful if you have a low battery.
Install coil relay giving full voltage to the coils.
Sorry for the long post... Winter time.
George
You could get "Euro" spec switch gear for the headlight...........................Easy to find on e-bay. It has an "Off" position for the lights.(I also like the "Flash-to-Pass" feature).............Super easy to wire up.
Some models are direct plug-and-play :good:
(downside is: You have to remember to turn them on)
(http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab154/firehawk068/FJ1200%20Projects/Valve%20adjustment-HID%20headlight-Heated%20Grips-etc/P5150149_zpsae31ef8b.jpg) (http://s859.photobucket.com/user/firehawk068/media/FJ1200%20Projects/Valve%20adjustment-HID%20headlight-Heated%20Grips-etc/P5150149_zpsae31ef8b.jpg.html)
That's to easy Alan :). yes thought about doing just that. I do like the looks of that switch.
George
George, your headlight should shut off when the starter button is pressed....
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 24, 2014, 10:06:50 AM
George, your headlight should shut off when the starter button is pressed....
True...............Thanks Pat.
Yes it does. I forgot all about that. Mine does turn off when the starter button is pressed...........
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 24, 2014, 10:06:50 AM
George, your headlight should shut off when the starter button is pressed....
Thanks Pat. I will check it out when I put the battery back in it. I didn't think it through all the way I guess. :sorry: I just know the headlight would turn on with the ignition switch and did not observe it in detail while cranking. I still think that I will put the European style light switch on just because I like the control.
Due to weather the FJ is pretty much down until March. As soon as the garage gets clear of two other projects I plan on pulling the top end off to do some needed maintenance, at that time I will also dig into the switch change out. Thanks again Pat have and good Thanksgiving with the family.
George