Hey guys :morning1:
Will FJ's turn themselves off if they're overhot?
Quote from: theLeopard on June 27, 2014, 02:37:45 PM
Hey guys :morning1:
Will FJ's turn themselves off if they're overhot?
Sure, eventually... (popcorn)
I only ask cause it happened a couple times when I was idling at a light off the freeway the past few weeks.
Then I rode to the TWIC office off the 15&8 today (40miles there) going about 80 (5000rpm).
Got to the office fine, needed a money order, bike quit on me a mile down the street at a light.
Started back up just fine, quit on me again when I was leaving the office for the 2nd time.
Been having a bit of increasing difficulty turning her over lately, was thinking battery since I did some compression checks but the battery is 2 months new....
Methinks your carbs are still f'd up...
why (popcorn)
Because when FJs run crappy, it's almost always carbs. And I've yet to see you post "my FJ is running great" or anything close. When that happens, then you're carbs are free from suspicion (for a little while!). When mine died at idle it was flooding, leaking o-rings.
Ready for another bout with the carbs?
nah, not yet.
I replaced every rubber in there and I haven't been overflowing.
idles steady at 1000, pulls great through the band, no problems in any of the gears except for the clutch slipped twice last month.
and when it dies the idle isn't acting up. it sits at 1000rpm steady then just shuts off, like I hit the killswitch.
any other suggestions? some guy said I should rebuild the carbs because my clutch slipped so i'm skeptical. my guess is that's the stock response (popcorn)
course I probably managed to piss off 90% of the forum with this post. wish me luck :drinks:
Did you read the responses to your post on slipping clutch? Some on this forum may have owned there FJ longer than you have been alive. Many have had more than one. When three or four members are telling you carbs listen. This is not meant as a put down. Just trying to get you to realize you are looking in he wrong place. Everything you keep posting screams carbs carbs carbs. Just trying to help.
Kurt
alright what do you suggest I do to the carbs?
they're clean, with new rubbers, on stock settings, and aren't overflowing.
If the engine runs well, idles steady but dies like hitting the kill switch at idle when it is hot it isn't the carbs.
Quote from: theLeopard on June 27, 2014, 06:26:55 PM
alright what do you suggest I do to the carbs?
they're clean, with new rubbers, on stock settings, and aren't overflowing.
Nothing. It sounds electrical if your engine shutting down description is accurate.
Quote from: theLeopard on June 27, 2014, 06:26:55 PM
alright what do you suggest I do to the carbs?
they're clean, with new rubbers, on stock settings, and aren't overflowing.
Because there are small passages in those carbs that are easy to miss and the bike sat for some time this compounds these problems. Maybe the fuel filter is plugged or pump is not working correctly. Everything keeps pointing back to carbs/fuel system.
Kurt
I haven't tabled the carbs completely kurt I just don't think that's the main problem.
i'm glad someone else said electrical cause i was just on my way out the door to pick up a voltmeter and work my way thru chapter6.
if you think of anything else, or specific, keep me posted. :yes:
Quote from: simi_ed on June 27, 2014, 05:11:05 PM
Because when FJs run crappy, it's almost always carbs. And I've yet to see you post "my FJ is running great" or anything close. When that happens, then you're carbs are free from suspicion (for a little while!).
Leopard best of luck. Hope you find the problem.
Kurt
Carbs sputter to a stop...like running out of fuel. Hard, sudden engine stops are electrical. Look elsewhere.
Quote from: JMR on June 27, 2014, 08:15:15 PM
Carbs sputter to a stop...like running out of fuel. Hard, sudden engine stops are electrical. Look elsewhere.
Agreed. This is a good lead to follow. Kinda hard to do remote electrical troubleshooting though ...
anyone know a good reference manual to guide me through electrical troubleshooting?
i haven't done this before and i don't quite understand everything they're asking me to do in the manual.
i tested the battery, it has juice.
i tested the generator with the motor running, and it puts out a bit more juice than the battery does alone which is nominal.
that's about the point where i stopped. i'll need to study the diagrams but i'm a complete novice with electrical stuff.
not even sure how to test the wires, do i punch the tips of the voltmeter through the insulator? how do i test the boxes/relay units?
i'd ask for a reference book out of respect, since i'd wager answering all my questions would be quite an extensive project for you guys.
On the electrical note...... Here is what I would check.
1. Check continuity between the negative terminal on the battery and a good bare spot on the frame.
2. Check these connectors for evidence of broken wires, signs of over heating, and loose or broken pins. Repair as necessary.
Main on/off switch
Right Handle Bar switch assembly
ECU (Electronics Control Unit)
Ignitor Unit
Both main coils
3. While you have each connector apart, Use a spray can of electrical contact cleaner and spray any dirt/gunk from the connectors.
4. Use dielectric grease. Put a dab on each pin and socket and then reconnect each connector.
5. Check your earth ground wire. The Brown wire coming from your horn button.
I hope this is helpful.
Fred
Quote from: simi_ed on June 27, 2014, 08:54:08 PM
Quote from: JMR on June 27, 2014, 08:15:15 PM
Carbs sputter to a stop...like running out of fuel. Hard, sudden engine stops are electrical. Look elsewhere.
Agreed. This is a good lead to follow. Kinda hard to do remote electrical troubleshooting though ...
Many times it is hard to find electrical problems even with the bike in front of you. :biggrin:
Quote from: aviationfred on June 27, 2014, 10:14:11 PM
On the electrical note...... Here is what I would check.
1. Check continuity between the negative terminal on the battery and a good bare spot on the frame.
2. Check these connectors for evidence of broken wires, signs of over heating, and loose or broken pins. Repair as necessary.
Main on/off switch
Right Handle Bar switch assembly
ECU (Electronics Control Unit)
Ignitor Unit
Both main coils
3. While you have each connector apart, Use a spray can of electrical contact cleaner and spray any dirt/gunk from the connectors.
4. Use dielectric grease. Put a dab on each pin and socket and then reconnect each connector.
5. Check your earth ground wire. The Brown wire coming from your horn button.
I hope this is helpful.
Fred
Fred has pointed you in the right direction. Another problem area that I had, were loose fuses. The fuse connector points can loosen over time and cause a temporary power-outage to critical electrical components. Start the bike and wiggle the fuses to check their connectivity. This problem can cause intermittent stoppages which can be hard to diagnose. Pete.