Simple question Ive been wanting to ask. What oils are you using or recommend. My bike is a 84 with about 36k on the odometer. I'm using Quaker state 20/50 part synthetic.with good results so far.[500 mi.] The factory service manual I have recommends 20/40 Yamalube. I cant seem to find 20/40 of any kind out there. Thanks, Charley.
Quote from: charleygofast on June 16, 2014, 06:18:29 PM
Simple question Ive been wanting to ask. What oils are you using or recommend. My bike is a 84 with about 36k on the odometer. I'm using Quaker state 20/50 part synthetic.with good results so far.[500 mi.] The factory service manual I have recommends 20/40 Yamalube. I cant seem to find 20/40 of any kind out there. Thanks, Charley.
(popcorn)
I'm in to buying the cheapest oil I can get my hands on and change it every 1000 miles. I have NAPA 15/45 in it now. It's coming time for me in 100 miles.
Oil questions are a time bomb :bomb: :bomb: :bomb: :diablo:
10w40 or 20w50 will be fine as long as it is 4 stroke Motorcycle specific oil, or Rotella-T diesel oil, yes it will work well. As far as brand and the choice of dino or synthetic, pick your poison. :flag_of_truce:
The main key is to not let your oil level get low while riding.
Fred
Quote from: charleygofast on June 16, 2014, 06:18:29 PM
Simple question Ive been wanting to ask. What oils are you using or recommend.
Haha, that's the
least simple question you could ask here. It's more volatile than politics, religion and sport wrapped into one.
Noel
As noted it is a time bomb... Without getting into brands I use to run 15-40. Through a chain of events I ended up with some 20-50 and being of a frugal nature I decided to use it. I found out that my FJ shifted better and was of course quieter. So now I run 20-50. If I ran mine during the winter I would drop it back to 15-40 but I usually stop riding by late Sept.
George
Hello Charley
There is no way you would know this but oil threads in the past have gotten ugly. 2040 is a Yamaha product. Try something if you like it keep using it, if not try something else. I and a lot of others use the diesel oil, of there choice. Currently I am using Rotella 5-40. Hope this helps.
Kurt
I prefer to use a motorcycle specific oil . I change it once a year or every 3k miles.
synthetic vs dino is a hot topic . run what you can afford and just remember to keep the level good and the oil fresh.
Ed knows the brand .
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 17, 2014, 12:49:42 PM
I prefer to use a motorcycle specific oil . I change it once a year or every 3k miles.
synthetic vs dino is a hot topic . run what you can afford and just remember to keep the level good and the oil fresh.
I'm with Mark here...I use a motorcycle-specific oil for the good of the wet clutch and try to change it every 3,000 miles. Since that can be tough to do out on the road, I run synthetic. Just gives me a warm-fuzzy if I have to push the miles farther before I find a garage to work in.
10w-40 most of the time but I'll throw in a quart of 20w-50 if that's all they have on the shelf
The thing about oil in older engines is that their cam/tappet designs call for higher levels of zinc than do the cams of modern motors and because of that, and the fact that zinc clogs catalytic converters, the EPA has all but eliminated it in oils designated for gasoline engines.
That stuff in the yellow container ain't your daddy's Pennsoil.
Also, the folks that test such things tell us that most (not all) "motorcycle specific" oils are just automobile oil with an expensive label.
I don't know if the FJ cam/tappet needs the zinc or if the synthetics give the cam protection of the zinc laced mineral oils, but I do know that there is a very inexpensive high zinc oil that has been used by motorcycle people with outstanding results for decades: Rotella.
It is certified for gasoline and diesel motors.
A gallon of 15-40 is under 15 bucks at WalMart.
I change it every 1,000; at 3,000 I change the filter.
That is way over-kill but is a very cost effective assurance of uncontaminated lubricant.
p.s. the most important thing on the "uncontaminated lubricant" issue is good air filters.
A high zinc alternative for Aussie owners is Penrite Gas 10 10w-50 semi synthetic with 1220 ppm
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf (http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf)
See Fred, We can talk about oil all day long and nobody gets upset! :bye:
Have to add my 0.2$...as i have tried many too...Stock stuff doesnt require much valve spring pressure so i dont give lack of zinc much thought ...ive seen many cams, racing and stockers, all look fine with todays oil...but i do think about the sheer rate of our oil being chewed by meshing trans gears...dont have the link handy but synth oils win every test there is. Also, i do see a marked improvement shifting with a synth oil..lately, ive been in love with rotella synth. ...their additive package tested to be very good in wet transmissions ...again sorry, no link handy. conv oil can start to feel a little notchy after a few hundred miles where as synth keeps shifting smooth.
I don't believe that Rotella is a good choice on the FJ THE REASON I think so is I noticed a marked difference with gearbox operation when I use it. Don't think that non specific oils are ideal doubling as a gear oil.... in my 69 dry sump BSA R3 I use it though and and Red Line ultralight in the gear box.
Noticed a big difference when I use Motul 20/50 in my FJ.
Chiz
Quote from: chiz on June 18, 2014, 07:29:59 AM
I don't believe that Rotella is a good choice on the FJ THE REASON I think so is I noticed a marked difference with gearbox operation when I use it. Don't think that non specific oils are ideal doubling as a gear oil.... in my 69 dry sump BSA R3 I use it though and and Red Line ultralight in the gear box.
Noticed a big difference when I use Motul 20/50 in my FJ.
Chiz
It would be fare to say that across the forum, members here have run just about everything in their FJ's and no doubt some not changing the oil at all for tens of thousands of miles. Many of these bikes are also ridden very hard very often.
Has anyone had a gearbox wear out?
Noel
I tried synthetic, and while the gearbox felt amazing, i developed an oil leak on the right hand side of the head. went back to Castrol 4T and the leak disappeared. Perhaps an oil pathway with an old "O" ring.
I love dropping in on this forum once in a while:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php)
Everything you want to know about oil is right here, everything.
These guys have hard-ons for anything oil.....
Cheers, Gareth
Quote from: mr blackstock on June 18, 2014, 10:30:27 AM
I tried synthetic, and while the gearbox felt amazing, i developed an oil leak on the right hand side of the head. went back to Castrol 4T and the leak disappeared. Perhaps an oil pathway with an old "O" ring.
I love dropping in on this forum once in a while:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php)
Everything you want to know about oil is right here, everything.
These guys have hard-ons for anything oil.....
Cheers, Gareth
Yes you are right Gareth on that front I put new valve cover seals and gasket on recently as well as pan gasket the leaks have stopped. Picked up 4 quarts of 4t this morning on sale at Crappy Tire $4.50 a quart or should I say litre for my next oil change. Ill see how it all works with my new selector thingy from Randy.
Chiz
Gareth, let me make sure I understand your statement: You did an oil change, your gearbox worked better but developed an oil leak, so you changed out the better performing oil rather than fix the leak. Does that about cover it? Sounds kinda bass ackwards to me, but I've only run dino oil in my FJ under threat of warranty.
Noel, I know you know better. Worn out oil won't wear out your gear box. The gearbox is the shredder of oil molecules. The penalty come at the main bearings, rod bearings, and piston/clyinder. The gearbox kills the viscosity modifiers which destroys the temperature handling capability of the oil. Maybe a worn camshaft?
As Bell Helmets used to say (sort of): If you have a $10 motor, run $10 oil. Sorry, no cheaping out on oil for me. Penny-wise and pound foolish.
My 2ยข. Feel free to ask for a refund.
Ed
Generally I'm a fan of the Synthetics. I run it in my truck and change it at 10K (5K for the filter). The old girl has 190K on the clock and runs like she did when I drove her off the dealer's lot - and straight home for the oil swap and installation of a K&N air filter. Zero repairs of any kind on motor/trans/clutch.
I'm wary of gasket compatibility on older motors though.
If your gaskets are springing leaks with it what's going on with the internal rubber parts?
The gear box chops up the mineral oil, it is true, hence the 1K change interval. "Fresh" is good.
But, the mineral/synthetic choice may soon be moot anyway (if it isn't already). I understand that now that the diesels are running cleaner and are getting cats the formula is being changed and the "sacrificial" ZDDP is going away from their oil.
So, I'll probably be a Mobil 1 guy for the FJ in the near future.
Wow, this could go on forever, I have decided to dump the part synthetic Q/S and go with Motul 20/50 when I clock a couple hundred more miles. I haven't developed any leaks or notchy shifting, but I'm a little leary of part anything...all or nothing or forget it! This oil was all K-Mark had in a 20/50 at the time. My son works at Mauston Motorsports and they stock Motul...whew. Keep it greazy so it goes down easy! Charley
This tread is nothing compared some of the oil threads in the past. Do a search some time, seven or eight pages. Members getting so mad they quit the forum. This has been a nice civilized discussion. Maybe we are evolving, maturing or something?
Kurt
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on June 18, 2014, 08:21:58 PM
This tread is nothing compared some of the oil threads in the past. Do a search some time, seven or eight pages. Members getting so mad they quit the forum. This has been a nice civilized discussion. Maybe we are evolving, maturing or something?
Kurt
Getting older,and tired of fighting maybe. Thats how I feel about most everything lol ! Alot of great info in this forum...very addicting. Only now Im not sure if Im going with Motul or Rotella T. the money I save with the Rotella would by a 12r of Sam Adams...also very addicting! Charley
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on June 18, 2014, 08:21:58 PM
This tread is nothing compared some of the oil threads in the past. Do a search some time, seven or eight pages. Members getting so mad they quit the forum. This has been a nice civilized discussion. Maybe we are evolving, maturing or something.
Maybe older and wiser. I don't think the brand of oil is anywhere near as important as changing it often so it doesn't get too dirty. Dave
Quote from: TexasDave on June 18, 2014, 09:30:01 PM
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on June 18, 2014, 08:21:58 PM
This tread is nothing compared some of the oil threads in the past. Do a search some time, seven or eight pages. Members getting so mad they quit the forum. This has been a nice civilized discussion. Maybe we are evolving, maturing or something.
Maybe older and wiser. I don't think the brand of oil is anywhere near as important as changing it often so it doesn't get too dirty. Dave
Nail on the head Dave! :drinks:
Quote from: simi_ed on June 18, 2014, 02:47:15 PM
Gareth, let me make sure I understand your statement: You did an oil change, your gearbox worked better but developed an oil leak, so you changed out the better performing oil rather than fix the leak. Does that about cover it? Sounds kinda bass ackwards to me, but I've only run dino oil in my FJ under threat of warranty.
well when you say it like that, yeah....arse backwards...
I was happy with the dino oil, just wanted to experiment with a different choice of oil type. I did not fix the oil leak as it only occured with synthetic, and I had just got the bloody bike back together after she had just got a headjob. I hated putting the engine back in, and I still missed the bloody rally!
I reckon dino oil is good stuff, like anything, frequent changes are best regardless of oil type..
Below is an interesting oil comparison,.
http://www.lessfriction.com.au/?utm_source=websitepop&utm_medium=website&utm_campaign=websitepop (http://www.lessfriction.com.au/?utm_source=websitepop&utm_medium=website&utm_campaign=websitepop)
Cheers, Gareth
Quote from: Joe Sull on June 16, 2014, 06:37:49 PM
I'm in to buying the cheapest oil I can get my hands on and change it every 1000 miles. I have NAPA 15/45 in it now. It's coming time for me in 100 miles.
Can you come over and change mine too? I haven't got the time my self at the moment! Thanks! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Well, I'm going to throw something into this debate. I'm using Castrol 4T, which I think is a great oil, runs fine in the FJ. I've always had that first gear thunk, even after doing an oil change. So this time on a good recommendation, I put in 500ml Moreys Oil Stabilizer with the last change, and blow me down, first gear now engages with a *snick*, not a THUNK.
Thats proof enough for me that it has helped in some way. How I do not know, but my ears are the litmus test here. Some say it is snake oil, some swear by it, hey it helped me so I'm happy with the $18 I've spent on it. :good2:
same here ray.
Im gonna change oil this weekend...Ive noticed the 'thunk' going into first, think Ill try the Moreys oil stableizer with Rotella T. :good2: Charley
Quote from: charleygofast on June 27, 2014, 07:10:00 AM
Im gonna change oil this weekend...Ive noticed the 'thunk' going into first, think Ill try the Moreys oil stableizer with Rotella T. :good2: Charley
Just a thought. Change the oil and see how it does, then add the Moreys and see how it works then. This will give you something to compare to.
Kurt
Kurt, what effects does that stabilizer have on the wet clutch?
Use caution when dealing with that!
Leon
Quote from: 1tinindian on June 27, 2014, 09:10:42 AM
Kurt, what effects does that stabilizer have on the wet clutch?
Use caution when dealing with that!
Leon
I have no idea. I did not suggest using the Moreys. My thought was with changing the oil and seeing how things run then adding the Moreys gives you a baseline for the test. Others are using the Moreys maybe they will chime in.
Sorry you did not make it to WCR. I wanted to meet you, hopefully next year.
Kurt
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on June 27, 2014, 09:20:04 AM
Quote from: 1tinindian on June 27, 2014, 09:10:42 AM
Kurt, what effects does that stabilizer have on the wet clutch?
Use caution when dealing with that!
Leon
I have no idea. I did not suggest using the Moreys. My thought was with changing the oil and seeing how things run then adding the Moreys gives you a baseline for the test. Others are using the Moreys maybe they will chime in.
Sorry you did not make it to WCR. I wanted to meet you, hopefully next year.
Kurt
Mine sounded and shifted better with the 20-50 W motorcycle oil. Last time I changed oil I went back to the 15-40 Diesel oil and added 8 oz of stabilizer (O Reilly's oil stabilizer) to add some viscosity and it works great for me. But my engine isn't exactly "fresh".
George
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on June 27, 2014, 09:20:04 AM
Quote from: 1tinindian on June 27, 2014, 09:10:42 AM
Kurt, what effects does that stabilizer have on the wet clutch?
Use caution when dealing with that!
Leon
I have no idea. I did not suggest using the Moreys. My thought was with changing the oil and seeing how things run then adding the Moreys gives you a baseline for the test. Others are using the Moreys maybe they will chime in.
Sorry you did not make it to WCR. I wanted to meet you, hopefully next year.
Kurt
OK Kurt, Thanks.
I plan on going to the Black Hills Rally next year, maybe we'll finally meet up!
Leon
I have been using Morey's for perhaps 4 years now in both my bikes, Yamaha Xj650 and Fj1100, and I have no complaints. The vibration is a lot lower in both bikes. I did a test on my Xj a few years ago, thinking that perhaps the improvements were in my imagination, a put plain Castrol 4T in the bike, and took her for a long ride-I went straight home, put in the Morey's again.
I have never had issues with clutch slipping. I use it at 25%, 1 liter added to 3 liters of Castrol 4T
And I am very sceptical about most things in life, let alone oil products.
cheers, Gareth
I was tempted to start a new post on this, but I'll continue through since I started or re-awakened this monster. I did a little research on Moreys oil stablizer and I'm interested in trying it. Now, where can I buy some? It's not sold at auto parts stores around here. I did check online and found two places that sell it. One is DeNunzio racing, and they sell a gallon for about $20. The other is Supercheapauto.com and they sell 1 litre for about the same price! It seems obvious which is the best deal, but are they both selling the exact same product, or am I missing something here...if anyone knows please let me in on it! I'm changing oil anyway and the Stablizer can wait. Charley
As long as it says on the btl, "Moreys Heavy Duty Oil Stabilser" then thats the one.
You use a bit more than me Gareth, I run around 500ml per full oil/filter change. But as far as clutch issues, none whatsoever.
Same stuff ?? Or same aprox specs. I use 8 OZ in mine.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ORC0/72717/N0443.oap?ck=Search_N0443_-1_-1&pt=N0443&ppt=C1941 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ORC0/72717/N0443.oap?ck=Search_N0443_-1_-1&pt=N0443&ppt=C1941)
George
This is the one George http://www.moreyoil.co.nz/moreys-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer/ (http://www.moreyoil.co.nz/moreys-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer/)
Not sure about the other brands.
If anyone hasn't seen this site http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm) , it and the forums seem to be the A-Z of all types of oil/additives/greases etc. The number of threads in the forum is mind boggling, :biggrin:
Quote from: X-Ray on June 27, 2014, 10:17:06 PM
This is the one George http://www.moreyoil.co.nz/moreys-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer/ (http://www.moreyoil.co.nz/moreys-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer/)
Not sure about the others.
I am betting it is close to the same stuff. Basically a viscosity improver. I like the diesel oil because of it's detergent action (or perceived) but my FJ likes a little heaver weight of oil. Notably shifts better.
George
Quote from: movenon on June 27, 2014, 10:29:29 PM
Quote from: X-Ray on June 27, 2014, 10:17:06 PM
This is the one George http://www.moreyoil.co.nz/moreys-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer/ (http://www.moreyoil.co.nz/moreys-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer/)
Not sure about the others.
I am betting it is close to the same stuff. Basically a viscosity improver. I like the diesel oil because of it's detergent action (or perceived) but my FJ likes a little heaver weight of oil. Notably shifts better.
George
My next oil change is going to be 20w50 Valvoline motorcycle oil, I want to see if this weight makes any difference in the way my FJ shifts. Up to now, I have been using 5w40 Rotella T6 without issue.
Leon
i use this.
bought an entire case.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41KhVAIxKHL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
I checked the denuncio website, the morey's they are selling is the same stuff, good price to. Lucas also sell a product that is the same, "heavy duty oil stabiliser" I have used that one as well, both are great and safe on wet clutches.
Although it comes out of the container like honey, it quickly thins when mixing with your oil, I mix mine up in a seperate container before filling up the bike with it.
I also use it with my scottoiler mixed in with normal oil, it sticks to the chain the best, I also use it as bar oil with the chain saw, also in the car, the lawnmower....
And as well as 95 octane I drop in a few green crystals into the tank every 5000kms, helps keep the bikes third eye open... :rofl:
cheers, Gareth
Just a quick addition, I came across two sites with good info on additives, makes interesting reading.
http://ezinearticles.com/?Do-Oil-Additives-Really-Work?&id=597421 (http://ezinearticles.com/?Do-Oil-Additives-Really-Work?&id=597421)
http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html (http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html)
and this one for a good laugh...
http://www.carbibles.com/bikes.html (http://www.carbibles.com/bikes.html)
Quote from: mr blackstock on June 29, 2014, 10:31:23 AM
Just a quick addition, I came across two sites with good info on additives, makes interesting reading.
http://ezinearticles.com/?Do-Oil-Additives-Really-Work?&id=597421 (http://ezinearticles.com/?Do-Oil-Additives-Really-Work?&id=597421)
http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html (http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html)
and this one for a good laugh...
http://www.carbibles.com/bikes.html (http://www.carbibles.com/bikes.html)
Nice! Hey...you dont work for Moreys do you? lol!!! What do you think of the Lucas additive? I can get that anywhere round here. Charley
While I have not used there oil additive, other products they make I have been very happy with. Let me also say I am not a big fan of oil additives, if I was going to try one the Lucas is what it would be.
Kurt
I reckon if the Lucas is easier to get, go with that. I have used it before and I think it is pretty much the same. Although I use morey's, I would not bother emailing them, they either ignore you or are rude and unhelpful... retail, go figure.
cheers, Gareth
Changed oil last wknd to Rotella T 15w40, ran her about 100 mi this week. Runs cooler and quieter, but shifted a little notchy. Yesterday I added 16 oz of Lucas HD oil stbl. and the shifting issue is gone. We'll see after a few hundred more miles Charley.
Charley thanks for the update. Please keep us posted.
Kurt
Quote from: charleygofast on July 04, 2014, 08:21:06 AM
Changed oil last wknd to Rotella T 15w40, ran her about 100 mi this week. Runs cooler and quieter, but shifted a little notchy. Yesterday I added 16 oz of Lucas HD oil stbl. and the shifting issue is gone. We'll see after a few hundred more miles Charley.
That's kind of what I have determined with my bike. It's not so much the oil as the viscosity when it comes to shifting. I run only 8 oz of the oil stabalizer but the full 16 would probably be OK. I have noticed no clutch problems. The chains also are quieter.
I get the effect with 20 -50 weight motorcycle oil. I have a diesel truck and always have the 15-40 on hand so that's what I elect to use.
As a note for what ever it is worth I installed Randy's "Roller Shift Detent kit" http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=engine%3AShiftKit&cat=26 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=engine%3AShiftKit&cat=26). If you are ever working in that area of your bike I would recommend it.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_16_04_14_8_03_03.jpeg)
George
Quote from: movenon on July 04, 2014, 10:49:59 AM
Quote from: charleygofast on July 04, 2014, 08:21:06 AM
Changed oil last wknd to Rotella T 15w40, ran her about 100 mi this week. Runs cooler and quieter, but shifted a little notchy. Yesterday I added 16 oz of Lucas HD oil stbl. and the shifting issue is gone. We'll see after a few hundred more miles Charley.
That's kind of what I have determined with my bike. It's not so much the oil as the viscosity when it comes to shifting. I run only 8 oz of the oil stabalizer but the full 16 would probably be OK. I have noticed no clutch problems. The chains also are quieter.
I get the effect with 20 -50 weight motorcycle oil. I have a diesel truck and always have the 15-40 on hand so that's what I elect to use.
As a note for what ever it is worth I installed Randy's "Roller Shift Detent kit" http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=engine%3AShiftKit&cat=26 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=engine%3AShiftKit&cat=26). If you are ever working in that area of your bike I would recommend it.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_16_04_14_8_03_03.jpeg)
George
Thanks, another awesome RPM product that makes sense! And we run Rotella in our trucks at work so I'm set! Charley
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on July 04, 2014, 09:07:12 AM
Charley thanks for the update. Please keep us posted.
Kurt
Another 50 miles today and so far so good! Charley
What does the roller shift detent kit do?
Quote from: FJscott on July 04, 2014, 03:10:13 PM
What does the roller shift detent kit do?
Lightens your wallet, and provides more positive shifts.
Quote from: FJscott on July 04, 2014, 03:10:13 PM
What does the roller shift detent kit do?
Here is a picture of a stock unit and the RPM replacement. My stock lever bearing was "sloppy". The new one has a wider bearing surface. Also the kit comes with a new spring which is probably a lot of the improvement. I gather that over time there has been some testing of the spring rate and Randy has it figured out as to the best one to use.
It is just an an improvement. I notice the down shifting and getting it in neutral is more positive. My opinion is if you are ever in the clutch area for work or inspection then you might consider replacing it.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/1651_16_04_14_7_58_55.jpeg)
George
Thanks George, a pic is worth a thousand words. I'm happy with the shifting on my 92, it actually shifts smoother than my '14 zx1000.
Scott
QuoteNice! Hey...you dont work for Moreys do you? lol!!! What do you think of the Lucas additive? I can get that anywhere round here. Charley
Everyone thinks that their oil is special, but it all comes out of the same refinery. Do you honestly think the Refinery stops production to produce Red Line or Amsoil Products?
It is all basic refined Oil, with some snake oil additives.
Synthetic vs Dino, the only difference is the ability to handle heat, if you are not running your bike to the limits, exposing the oil to extreme temperatures there is very little difference.
Select a good brand oil, change it frequently and relax.....
Quote from: Bearly Flying on April 26, 2015, 02:44:29 AM
Synthetic vs Dino, the only difference is the ability to handle heat, if you are not running your bike to the limits, exposing the oil to extreme temperatures there is very little difference.
Select a good brand oil, change it frequently and relax.....
Ahh some common sense .....How refreshing to see posted in a oil thread. :good:
Quote from: Mark Olson on April 26, 2015, 07:38:11 PM
Quote from: Bearly Flying on April 26, 2015, 02:44:29 AM
Synthetic vs Dino, the only difference is the ability to handle heat, if you are not running your bike to the limits, exposing the oil to extreme temperatures there is very little difference.
Select a good brand oil, change it frequently and relax.....
Ahh some common sense .....How refreshing to see posted in a oil thread. :good:
I agree. Single most important aspect of oil is contamination. Combustion by products, transmission and clutch wear--keep it clean--change it frequently.
Quote from: TexasDave on April 26, 2015, 08:32:09 PM
I agree. Single most important aspect of oil is contamination. Combustion by products, transmission and clutch wear.......
Would this be the contamination that gets into your fibre clutch plates over time and makes them slippery? :rofl2:
(Before anyone arcs up, it's a joke - sorry, I couldn't resist)
Noel
I run the "rotella" in everything I own....
I get an "employee discount" from work
(I'm a diesel mechanic and we buy it by the drum)
Move along.
This is not the thread you are looking for...
(http://i.imgur.com/HMwb1CL.jpg)
Quote from: fj1289 on February 22, 2017, 08:38:56 PM
Move along.
This is not the thread you are looking for...
And now it's live again. :rofl2: