I've got a ping or a knock, not sure which.
Put 5/30 (I already know lets not beat a dead horse changing it after class today) and rode to school, ~4000rpm's most of the ride, city crusing ~2500, about a 45minute ride.
Started it up at lunch, was dogging at like 2-300rpms, choke wasn't helping, could keep an idle with the choke in so I warmed it up to 800 and drove a few laps in the parking garage, idles fine now.
Auto parts store is less than a mile away from my school so i'll be doing that asap.
Now I've had some sneaking suspicious I might need to tear the engine apart (ie: call Randy and cry with my wallet) but i'm trying to get a rough estimate not only on severity but also understanding which noises and which and what those which noises mean.
:drinks:
Leopard, your carbs are still NFG. You may be able to get away with some addative at this point, since it eventually sorts itself out. Go to Walmart, go to the sporting goods section, where they have the BOAT PARTS. Look for a small blue bottle of Startron addative. It's about $9.60 + tax. Add 1/2 bottle to a full tank then ride & cross your fingers! Get another oil filter as well as your fresh 20-50 oil.
Of course Randy can fix your problems, but you may not be able to afford that option. You need to hook up with either Moparman70 or CraigO. One's in Lakeside, other is Oceanside. Get an opinion from another FJ owner. Maybe your bike is making normal-ish noises and you're worried over nothing. PM these fine folks & see who may be able to help you!
Ed
Quote from: simi_ed on June 03, 2014, 03:03:11 PM
Add 1/2 bottle to a full tank then ride & cross your fingers! .
Ed
No, no, no...
Only add the recommended ratio of additive to the volume of fuel you have in the tank. If you add too much, it lowers the octane significantly and engine damage can result...
Randy - RPM
Well, I try to learn something every day! Thanks for the info.
Ed
I bought a bottle of this a few weeks ago, still have most of it.
(http://scooterpartsplace.com/images/products/detail/SeaFoamFuelAdditive.jpg)
On a rather sour update, I had problems changing the oil at oreilleys and decided to nurse it home on 5/30.
Ran pretty good, went 50mph @3000, for 30 miles then the oil plug fell out cause I was fiddling with it on an 18mm and cracked the seal without removing the plug.
Hit the killswitch as soon as the light ticked but had to jumpstart it when I put fresh oil in and the idle is a bit rough.
Still having problems with my choke, doesn't seem to be opening up. Got a lot of inspections to do.
OOC, why are you guys still concerned over the carbs? I'm not saying you're wrong, but the bike was running good yesterday aside from the faint ping/tick/knock/whatever that developed.
And by rough idle, today, I mean it idles ~1000rpm when warm and floats up-and-down 50rpm in neutral.
Another thing worth mentioning is the throttle seems to drag until I hit 1500rpm, like it's not getting enough fuel (i'm figuring the pistons are sticky), then jumps to damn-near 2500rpm once it cracks 1500.
So it runs well, except that it doesn't run well, and you're gonna fix that with a can of something that you run through the fuel system.
You fuckwit.
Hold it a second, Andy. I think that it's worth a try to run SeaFoam or Startron to maybe clear out a partial clog on a pilot jet. It seems pretty obvious that Leopard cannot get a handle on this the way others may, but add a can of xxxx may help him out. I know I am not above trying that to see if it saves me from a carb R&R, espeicially when I ran the OEM airbox.
OK Leopard, let's get this clear(er): Your pistons are not "sticky". They'll etiher STICK or their fine. Stick means it WILL NOT TURN OVER, or RUN. The symptoms that you're describing are EXACTLY what clogged pilot jets do. Did you ever read the primer on carb operation? The pilot jets control fuel flow from just off-idle to about 1/2 throttle, with decreasing influence above about 1/4 throttle. 1 clogged pilot will run real shitty until you hit about 2K, then the needle starts to work overriding the clogged pilot, so it feels like another cylinder cuts in, or as you put it "the throttle seems to drag until I hit 1500rpm, like it's not getting enough fuel (i'm figuring the pistons are sticky), then jumps to damn-near 2500rpm once it cracks 1500."
Are you getting it yet? these old bike are DEMANDING about a clean set of carbs. This doesn't mean clean like you cleaned your mother's house, it means "CLEAN" like an Operating Room. Clean pilot jets, clean emulsion tubes, clean fuel passages, and then proper fuel/float levels.
Otherwise, we keep doing this dance where you complain about your bike running shitty, we tell you to clean the carbs, Andy calls you a fuckwit, and we start over.
Read this http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=655.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=655.0) Learn how, because you'll get tired of paying someone else to do this!
Clean your carbs!!! Get it?
Are you serious about the drain plug falling out and running out of oil? Maybe you should just find a real mechanic and drop the bike off. Tell him what's wrong, ask how much, and start making money to get your bike fixed! Most engines will not survive running out of oil, so maybe you have 'sticky pistons' after all ...
Ed
Quote from: theLeopard on June 03, 2014, 11:06:21 PM
....... throttle seems to drag until I hit 1500rpm, like it's not getting enough fuel (i'm figuring the pistons are sticky), then jumps to damn-near 2500rpm once it cracks 1500.
If you are doing this is in neutral with a light throttle, it is normal. The advance curve causes this. If the symptom is present with a healthy dose of throttle it may be something else.
You shouldn't be running the FJ under load at below 2000rpm anyway.
Quote from: theLeopard on June 03, 2014, 11:06:21 PM
(i'm figuring the pistons are sticky)
My dislike for sarcasm prevents me from commenting on this, but should you be working on your own bike? If not, that's fine, not every one is cut out for it. You need a little more than necessity, poverty and enthusiasm to work on machinery. This comment demonstrates a serious lack of basic understanding.
We will give you all the help you need but there is little point if you don't understand it.
Noel (Forum wet blanket)
alright lets talk like men here.
no, I don't think a can of seafoam is going to magically fix the bike. I only brought it up because someone said my carbs are still broken and they're fine. I already cleaned them, and after that I cleaned them with seafoam, and after that I put some STP in the tank. the carbs are as clean as my freshlywashed ass.
moving forward, the bike wont fucking start so i'm considering saving some money and just buying a Louisville because i'm fed up.
my commute takes 17hours a day right now on the bus, i'm exhausted, my budget is stretched, rent is due next month, and I have NO FUCKING CLUE what the fuck is wrong.
I can't even get it to start with a push this morning, which is BULLSHIT because I pushstarted it yesterday easy, and when it was warm it fired up twice from the starter.
and I already know my limitations dude.
I've already volunteered I'm new at troubleshooting but to outright state I can't understand a manual and/or 3rd party advice? with due respect, piss off.
if I had a garage and all the tools I would tear it apart to the frame; it takes a lot more than money, luxury, and enthusiasm to fix a bike yourself.
OK, so you can fix it yourself, excellent. Maybe you need a bit of help with the diagnosing. Some of these things are very difficult to home in on over the net. If you take everyones advice you end up jumping through all sorts of hoops.
Noel
Thanks for the frank advice, and not taking offense. You're the best kind of friend to have don't get all mushy on me :morning2:
I'll be taking out a student loan to cover my rent and this project so I need to get this right the first time.
Let's start with what's necessary: bike won't start.
When was the last time you got it start? 1 day ago.
What changed? My oil plug fell out and my oilpan emptied.
What's wrong? Starter wont turnover the engine (starter fires), and I can't get a pushstart when the bike is cold.
What else should I know? I got a pushstart yesterday, after I installed a new plug and put proper oil in the tank. Ran good when warm, lots of little quirks but no major problems.
Anything else? I drove the bike 60miles on 5/30 oil. Had trouble starting it after the 30mile trip. Had trouble starting it with 20/50 oil after the second 30mile return-trip. Exhibited zero starting-problems before I put 5/30 oil in the pan.
Quote from: andyb on June 04, 2014, 12:35:33 AM
So it runs well, except that it doesn't run well, and you're gonna fix that with [magic].
You fuckwit.
100% accurate. :sorry:
Temperature is ~85degrees out, tried a cold start for kicks.
Fired right up.
Wouldn't start this morning in the cold, moist air.
It's a tick. Sounds like a stopwatch. ~4ticks/second idling in neutral. Eminating from the portion of the block underneath the valves.
Idle sits @1000rpm, nearly tuned (slight wandering).
Gonna pull the tank off, not getting anything at all from my choke. Might explain why it wont start. Will report results.
edit: missing the lead screw to the choke post on the carb. will fix and report results.
Alright, I was manually depressing the choke in the mornings and that worked.
Just installed a new screw and the choke works with the knob now, progress has been made.
Still getting that ticking sound from what sounds like my pistons.
Guy said it was the cam-chain, Randy said it's probably the starter chain, tossing it up here for your pondering spirits.
Oh, and one more thing: the clutch. Thinking about bleeding out the clutch to tighten up the handle but I'm still getting full compression with the lever sos I was wondering if bleeding is necessary or even helpful (since the clutch lever gets full compression).
Your clutch lever is working against a number of springs,
There's the spring in the slave and the clutch spring and the spring in the clutch master.
When you pull the lever to the bar you're acting against all these springs.
If there is "some" air in the system, that will act as another spring.
So what you're calling "full compression" doesn't tell us anything, and it is doubtful that you'll be able to tell the difference as long as the amount of air in the system is not excessive.
Bleed the clutch! Once all the air is definitely out, and there are no more bubbles (redundant), we can try to help you if you still have a problem with your clutch.
I mean no offense Leopard and I think it is great that you want to learn to service your own motorcycle, but frankly from your (often contradictory) comments I conclude that the level of your basic technical knowledge suggests that you will be better off taking your bike to a professional mechanic. Motorcycles are a bit like airplanes in their unforgiving response to inattention to details. You simply lack the knowledge of what those details are and the potential costs of inattention to them.
Things like driving with a loose drain plug can cost you your life.
On the bright side, this is a very robustly constructed motor and it is unlikely that you have seriously injured it. Also, it has a lot of naturally occurring mechanical noises and the pistons are perhaps the least likely source of what you are hearing.
Perhaps someone here will know a shop in your area that they can recommend.
put a new battery in it and see if it starts normally.
fj's make noise when hot or cold , that is just a fact.
take it out and run the rpm's up in the 6-8k range . watch for smoke out the pipes.
report back.
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 09, 2014, 04:25:18 PM
put a new battery in it and see if it starts normally.
fj's make noise when hot or cold , that is just a fact.
take it out and run the rpm's up in the 6-8k range . watch for smoke out the pipes.
report back.
This is the "throw money at it" approach with which I respectfully, but totally, disagree.
If you are determined to tackle this challenge Leopard, it is your money and your life. Everybody starts from zero one way or another. But I strongly suggest that you approach the problem systematically.
The first thing you should buy is a shop manual. Then scan it for basic concepts, paying attention to "trouble shooting"
Your battery MAY be bad (or you could have left a switch on, or you may have a charging problem or . . .) but make that determination BEFORE you buy a new one. Continue that approach, isolate and eliminate possible problems one at a time.
I still think you will be time and money ahead getting your bike squared away by somebody who is not doing everything for the first time, and then learning how to maintain it, but see paragraph 2.
Either way you go, best of luck, sincerely, and may you have many years of motorcycle enjoyment - both on the road and in the garage.
i'll cool this one down quick.
battery is 2months new.
ran a compression check and I need to rering all 4 cylinders, none of them even meet minimum.
waiting for a list of parts I need to purchase, Randy's fairly well slammed this week so if you guys know what to buy help a brother out.
Just the essentials: rings, gaskets, and other rubbers.
You need rings? Maybe it's valves? Did you ever check valve clearances? You know this is not a job for a rookie, right? Did you read my last post on your issue? (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11930.msg118506#msg118506 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11930.msg118506#msg118506))
Out of hand, I'd say that anyone that loses a drain plug and dumps their oilpan contents is not qualified to do an engine rebuild. Please let us know how you fair. (popcorn)
Quote from: Burns on June 10, 2014, 04:31:01 PM
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 09, 2014, 04:25:18 PM
put a new battery in it and see if it starts normally.
fj's make noise when hot or cold , that is just a fact.
take it out and run the rpm's up in the 6-8k range . watch for smoke out the pipes.
report back.
This is the "throw money at it" approach with which I respectfully, but totally, disagree.
If you are determined to tackle this challenge Leopard, it is your money and your life. Everybody starts from zero one way or another. But I strongly suggest that you approach the problem systematically.
The first thing you should buy is a shop manual. Then scan it for basic concepts, paying attention to "trouble shooting"
Your battery MAY be bad (or you could have left a switch on, or you may have a charging problem or . . .) but make that determination BEFORE you buy a new one. Continue that approach, isolate and eliminate possible problems one at a time.
upon rereading the post I see the battery is only 2 months old.
the starting problem is not that the engine will not spin from the starter , but it does not fire up.
It appears the choke was not in play and caused this problem.
FYI... to properly start the fj when cold , you must pull choke to full on position then push the starter button without any throttle applied.
the fj is quite cold blooded and will take several minutes to warm up . As the rpms rise up as it gets warmer , slowly push choke in to maintain a reasonable rpm of 2500 then all the way in and it should idle around 1000 rpm. once again this takes some time.
If your fj will start on this procedure then it is normal.
the only part I will throw at an fj is a new battery when starting problems exist. They will do some weird stuff .
still waiting to hear how it ran and if any smoke on acceleration or deceleration , please wind it up into the 6k-8k range.
is it using oil ?
Your low compression may be the result of stuck rings , and some spirited riding may remedy the problem.
report in this post so I don't have to search everytime and others can follow the thread as to what has been done already.
"ran a compression check and I need to rering all 4 cylinders"
were you WOT during the test?
Did you run it both dry and wet?
Do you understand what I am asking?
don't understand WOT, mate; but I ran the test dry.
have to pull the thing apart anyway if results change wet so i'm just gonna replace the rubbers then run another compression check.
crossing my fingers hoping for the best. I rode it to school today and it idled steady and didn't leak any fuel out the overflow so i'm hopeful it's fairly healthy and just needs new rubbers.
"WOT" is wide open throttle.
If the carbs are mounted, the slides have to be fully open while you spin the motor or you will get inaccurate (low) numbers.
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 11, 2014, 03:40:23 PMupon rereading the post I see the battery is only 2 months old.
the starting problem is not that the engine will not spin from the starter , but it does not fire up.
It appears the choke was not in play and caused this problem.
correct. I jumped the gun a bit when I posted here, I hadn't properly diagnosed much of anything when I reported starting problems.
the screw fell off the choke cable-bracket on the post so I couldn't use my choke. works and starts well enough now, a slight flick of the throttle is usually all it needs.
Quotestill waiting to hear how it ran and if any smoke on acceleration or deceleration , please wind it up into the 6k-8k range.
is it using oil ?
Your low compression may be the result of stuck rings , and some spirited riding may remedy the problem.
report in this post so I don't have to search everytime and others can follow the thread as to what has been done already.
I'm a bit cautious about pushing the bike that hard right now, it's been through quite a lot recently and I already know the rings are originals (from 1992).
Just seems like everything points to bad rings and/or rusted cylinders. The cams are spotless so i'm thinking it's just the rubbers.
Rode it to class today and it was healthy, didn't push past 4000 and didn't notice any overflow, idle was normal, started normal, noticed some fluid on my right front-fork joint so I cleaned it and will check it tomorrow.
It's just aged; needs some TLC. Trying to avoid breaking it while I service it back to health.
Gonna piss up a rope if it dies on me I swear to god but my stress level is returning to normal. Long week, not just the bike either :drinks:
yeah, I gunned it.
I'll run them again before I purchase parts but i'm confident the numbers are as accurate as the gauge I purchased.
Quoteslides have to be open
please clarify, I simply pulled off the tank and opened the throttle.
Quote from: theLeopard on June 11, 2014, 06:10:53 PM
Quoteslides have to be open
please clarify, I simply pulled off the tank and opened the throttle.
The CV carbs on our Fjs have a slide that operates via engine speed/load, that opens and closes to increase or decrease the volume of air flowing through the carburetor, trying to maintain a "Constant Velocity" of air speed throughout the engine operating range.
If you take the air-box off, and look down inside the carb, you will see the slide blocking the air path through the carburetor.
Air entering the engine has to go past this slide valve, and also past the butterfly valve that you control with your twist-throttle.
The slide valve is operated by vacuum, and has a large rubber diaphragm attached to the top of it. Underneath the big square-ish cap with 4 screws, on top of each carburetor is the vacuum chamber. There is also a spring under the cap that holds the slide closed until there is enough vacuum to open the slide.
The slide also has a tapered needle attached to the bottom of it, that plugs a hole where fuel comes out.....................The more the slide opens, the more it unplugs this hole, and the more fuel is let out....................It directly corresponds to the volume of air flowing through the carburetor.
At cranking speed, when you are trying to do your compression readings, the vacuum slides are mostly closed and not allowing much volume of air to enter the engine.
This will greatly affect the readings............................
Less volume of air = less air getting compressed = less readings
Engine temperature will also affect the readings.............Warm-vs-Cold readings will be different............A cold engine will most often have lower readings than a warmed up engine.
In order to get an accurate compression reading, the vacuum slide must be propped open(You won't be able to do this without removing the air-box), and the butterfly valve held open with your throttle hand..................
You can also remove the 4 screws that hold the cap on top of the carburetor, and simply remove the spring, the diaphragm, and slide completely..........(this eliminates the need to remove the air-box, but be careful the screws are JIS, and will strip easily with a regular phillips screwdriver) Doing this will also allow you to inspect the rubber diaphragm for pinholes(very common on older, high mileage machines) that could affect proper carb operation.
Or you could even loosen the 4 clamps on the engine intake rubber boots, and pop the whole rack of 4 carbs off the engine altogether..................then you wouldn't have to worry about propping open the slides, or even twisting the butterfly valves open either.....................And inspect the rubber intake boots for cracks(also common on older,high mileage engines)
Doing your compression readings with the carbs off is as wide-open throttle as you could possibly get! :good:
Hope this helps you a little :hi:
At cranking speed, the slide cutout allows plenty of air through as long as you hold the throttle wide open. Best readings would be taken with carbs removed, but it's not really necessary.
I'm a bit cautious about pushing the bike that hard right now, it's been through quite a lot recently and I already know the rings are originals (from 1992).
Just seems like everything points to bad rings and/or rusted cylinders. The cams are spotless so i'm thinking it's just the rubbers.
What's the mileage reading, these bikes can do some high mileages before they need rebuilding. No offence mate, but you obviously don't have a clue at all with some of your diagnosis of symptoms.
Save your money buying parts that YOU think it needs and let someone who knows what their doing check it out for you.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on June 11, 2014, 11:01:39 PM
At cranking speed, the slide cutout allows plenty of air through as long as you hold the throttle wide open. Best readings would be taken with carbs removed, but it's not really necessary.
+1
If you have flat bottom slide 1100 carbs, then you might see some restriction and need to raise the slide(s)
Randy - RPM
what is the mileage of your engine?
If you don't wind it up to the 6k range you will not get it on the mains .
you are already talking rebuild so why not?
there are many members in SoCal , you should reach out for a hand or at least an opinion with new eyes on fj.
Quote from: theLeopard on June 11, 2014, 06:10:04 PM
Just seems like everything points to bad rings and/or rusted cylinders. The cams are spotless so i'm thinking it's just the rubbers.
"The Leopard" or Spots (as I prefer),
WTF are you talking about? Bad Rings or rusted Cylinders? And you're going to fix it with "New Rubbers"?
Time for some Education for you:
Piston and Rings(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/medium_21_12_06_14_2_38_29.jpeg)
Piston Rings, not "Rubbers"(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/21_12_06_14_2_39_13.jpeg)
Did your bike sit for some period of years? If not, the cylinders ARE NOT rusted! Piston rings are thin metal rings,
Not "Rubbers". This job is not like changing rubbers, or putting a new rubber band on a newspaper. You are talking about MAJOR Motorcycle Surgery. Are you prepared for that? Are you prepared to fail half way through? Or see it through, no matter the cost?
Look, you are in over your head. You can learn, you
need to learn! You've been offered sound advice from numerous sources here, yet you ignore good advice and follow your half-baked ideas. Do you really think we're all PURPOSLEY STEERING YOU WRONG? We are trying to tell you that you are making a LOT of work and forcing considerable expense for probably no good reason.
Now, if you want to get some engine rebuilding experience, this is a good exercise. But if you're a "Starving Student" as you have claimed, this is a STUPID EXERCISE! We don't encourage or generally tolerate "STUPID" here. So, are you going to be smart and listen? Or continue to act stupid???
Oh Leopard, Now you've done it , Ed's lack of SoCal manners is showing up. :dash2:
You are making us crazy with your unwillingness to follow advice. :wacko3:
if the bike is running now , and is not burning oil or leaking gas anymore then just go ride it till something breaks. :good2:
good luck.
I think this is all a spoof...someone is having a great deal of fun. Maybe this is the same guy who bought NOS at 7-11 and wonders where all the increased power is?
Jeff
Quote from: jscgdunn on June 12, 2014, 05:54:56 PM
I think this is all a spoof...someone is having a great deal of fun. Maybe this is the same guy who bought NOS at 7-11 and wonders where all the increased power is?
Jeff
Ya, Maybe he should be put in "time out" :yes:
I don't understand, I haven't even bought parts yet I'm still trying to sift through all this new information.
I'm not ignoring anyone, I've been listening.
The bike is running, and it hasn't been leaking fuel. I'll push it to 6k for a few miles to see if it leaks at high RPM before I tear into it.
I'm not running an 1100 so from the sounds of it I shouldn't need to worry about removing parts to run a compression check. I'll test those again (today, shortly) when the plugs aren't 200degrees.
I thought O-rings were rubber cause I wasn't thinking.
See, I just got told and then I thought about it and anything rubber would die instantly in the engine so that's kinda stupid.
And yes, I have a measurable amount of concern popping open the engine considering my level of expertise; especially if it's unnecessary.
The odometer reads 30k. I don't know if it's rolled over once already. Probably not.
I thought it had when it was smoking real bad but that seems to have cleared up. Might've been the additives I put in the fuel finally clearing the tank entirely after multiple fills of fresh Mobil.
All these posts are extremely informative and I'm reading them, I suppose I'm just not the best at demonstrating my comprehension.
Sorry for any confusion, and thanks for the honest rebuffs. I learn best the way you guys teach.
I've got ~$500 I can spend right now, if I sell the jag maybe an extra grand.
My manifolds are showing signs of cracks, and while I was chopping it up with Joe he said I should test those by spraying the cracks with carb cleaner and seeing if the idle increases.
So I need to do that, I'll do that after I run a second compression check and report back.
You guys are the best :good: thank you for your time&patience, I can be aggravating I know but I mean well.
Quote from: jscgdunn on June 12, 2014, 05:54:56 PM
I think this is all a spoof...someone is having a great deal of fun. Maybe this is the same guy who bought NOS at 7-11 and wonders where all the increased power is?
Jeff
Maybe Irishluck has changed his spots.
Noel
Dammit, I KNEW I'd read this same shit before! How did I miss it? :greeting: :rofl:
Quote from: theLeopard on June 12, 2014, 06:20:55 PM
I don't understand, I haven't even bought parts yet I'm still trying to sift through all this new information.
I'm not ignoring anyone, I've been listening.
But not following. Hence the attitude.
Quote
The bike is running, and it hasn't been leaking fuel. I'll push it to 6k for a few miles to see if it leaks at high RPM before I tear into it.
I'm not running an 1100 so from the sounds of it I shouldn't need to worry about removing parts to run a compression check. I'll test those again (today, shortly) when the plugs aren't 200degrees.
"To 6k" doesn't get you on the mains. The party doesn't start until 6k. If your mains are too big, it'll splutter a bit on the transition off the needle. If they're too small, it'll run cleanly through the 6k range, and fall on its face later on.
Quote
I thought O-rings were rubber cause I wasn't thinking.
See, I just got told and then I thought about it and anything rubber would die instantly in the engine so that's kinda stupid.
And yes, I have a measurable amount of concern popping open the engine considering my level of expertise; especially if it's unnecessary.
Valvestem seals are rubber (viton, etc), and live pretty well whilst less than two inches from the combustion itself.
Quote
The odometer reads 30k. I don't know if it's rolled over once already. Probably not.
I thought it had when it was smoking real bad but that seems to have cleared up. Might've been the additives I put in the fuel finally clearing the tank entirely after multiple fills of fresh Mobil.
Look at the non-motor bits. At 130k, you'll see wear on places like the footpeg rubbers (if they're original, and haven't been replaced with those horrible aftermarket pegs).
The footpegs look ok, but the interior-foam of the sidepanels is pretty toasty, half of it is gone.
Soot on the front forks looks like an old diesel work-truck, and the rest of the bike is pretty filthy as well.
The right fork is leaking a bit, pools up on the plastic dust-guard.
Got a leak on my #1 cylinder, not sure if it's oil from the valvenut or gas from the petcock. Should probably just replace both.
Greased up the chain, it's in good shape but it's dirty too.
The thing needs a wash, lookin like a damn ratbike lol.
I ran compression#'s again and they were higher than yesterday and seem to meet minimums so i'll retest them again sunday.
Put some seafoam on my #4 exhaust manifold, appears the cracks haven't penetrated the entire rubber yet so i'll need to replace that sometime soon.
The bike just doesn't sound 100%, and I don't want to dick around on it when it's not 100% and break something major cause I my riding exceeded the bikes health, ya know?.
I use it to get to school, otherwise my commute is 3am-8pm riding the bus.
If anyone wants to take a ride in north SD this weekend maybe we could have an impromptu minirally and hit the cigar bar after?
yall can listen to it and tell me if it's in trouble or if I'm just hearing things.
Quote from: andyb on June 12, 2014, 06:50:05 PM
"To 6k" doesn't get you on the mains. The party doesn't start until 6k. If your mains are too big, it'll splutter a bit on the transition off the needle. If they're too small, it'll run cleanly through the 6k range, and fall on its face later on.
I've rev'd it in neutral to almost 9k and it's smooth, but that's in neutral.
I didn't notice anything when I jetted around the freeway last week but i'll give it another go.
I'm still uncomfortable pushing her hard but there's only one way to diagnose and that's to test first.
You live in SoCal? I'll buy you a beer if you attend the minirally :drinks:
Quote from: theLeopard on June 12, 2014, 07:30:07 PM
yall can listen to it and tell me if it's in trouble or if I'm just hearing things.
OK, now you're using your head! I can't do it, you're too far out for me. Forks dirty? Wash 'em. 1 ride on a damp morning & they'll look like crap. #1 cylinder leaking? It's not the petcock. Where is it leaking? Exhaust leak? Valve cover? Carb? We need details!
"Put some seafoam on my #4 exhaust manifold, appears the cracks haven't penetrated the entire rubber yet so i'll need to replace that sometime soon."
OK, contradictions here: Rubber means intake side, exhaust is the HOT side! You need to lift hte tank, then spray th intake manifolds (1 at a time!) with WD-40 to see if the rpm rises. This will indicate an intake leak. Then we (you) will need to dig deeper.
Lesson here: Intelligent answers will come with intelligent questions. We're trying to help!
Ed
you're right, it's the intake manifolds near the airbox.
front->back means they're exhaust right? my brain at work :dance:
the leak is on top of the valve cover, only @ the #1 cylinder. I cleaned it when I removed all the cowling and it's slick again so it's still got a leak somewhere.
I recalled the petcock had a drip a month ago but it was a slow drip. Only other place it would be from is the rear nut on the #1 side, nearest the cowling but the rubber gasket isn't perforated.
Quote from: theLeopard on June 12, 2014, 07:34:07 PMI've rev'd it in neutral to almost 9k and it's smooth, but that's in neutral.
I didn't notice anything when I jetted around the freeway last week but i'll give it another go.
I'm still uncomfortable pushing her hard but there's only one way to diagnose and that's to test first.
You live in SoCal? I'll buy you a beer if you attend the minirally :drinks:
OK Brain, next thing. 9K in Neutral? BAD IDEA! 9K under load, no problem. The idea is to make sure the rings are free, not stuck or gummed up. So. the plan should be to drive with some
Gusto, using the upper portion of the rev band. IOW, maybe between 5 & 8K rpm. Now, obviously you don't want to get ticket doing this, but you'll probably exceed the posted speed limit (a bit). So do this judiciously, but you need to exercise the engine to get it ...limbered up. Do this for a bit, not necessarily all at once, but may 10-20 times over the span of 25-50 miles, THEN do your compression testing. Remove all 4 plugs from the engine, do you tests at WOT. See what you get for results. If they're below spec, then add maybe a teaspoon of oil to each cylinder, crank over a bit (5 +/- seconds on the starter) then repeat. If the numbers climb a lot (tell us how much!) THEN we should talk about rings!
Leak on #1: Is it gasoline or oil? Oil the rubber donuts on the hold down bolts. Gasoline is another story, now were back to the Molotov Cocktail issue from a few weeks ago. Randy has the donuts (I think they're called Valve cover grommets), they're not too expensive. IDK how much, but cheaper than a set of piston rings! :lol:
Report back, we'll regroup!
Ed
:dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2:
do not rev to 9k in neutral ... with no load on engine it will break something.
YOU MUST : ride your fj like it is a high performance sports car . Meaning if you baby it and don't rev it up and floor it (pin it ) it will LOAD UP and run like shit.
it sounds like your compression is improving with more use. This is normal for a fj that has been unused for a bit .
the rings will seal up and power will improve the more you ride it .
YOU MUST : do full throttle bursts past 8k rpm and then let it engine decelerate from 8k , this will reseal your rings .
Warning disclaimer: the fj pulls hard above 6k rpm so hold on and find a straight piece of road for a few miles. USE 3rd gear . :gamer:
Is this your first motorcycle? :shok:
This is one of the more, fun threads on the site. I'm enjoying it immensely. I read it over again and only wish there was 4 or 5 pages more. (popcorn)
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 13, 2014, 02:36:01 PM
:dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2:
do not rev to 9k in neutral ... with no load on engine it will break something.
ok. I was stunting !! I wanna do a wheelie so bad.
QuoteYOU MUST : ride your fj like it is a high performance sports car . Meaning if you baby it and don't rev it up and floor it (pin it ) it will LOAD UP and run like shit.
it sounds like your compression is improving with more use. This is normal for a fj that has been unused for a bit .
the rings will seal up and power will improve the more you ride it .
ok. I pushed it up to 6k today in 2nd a few times on the way to the store, running well.
what is loading up? I won't ride it like a baby since it's bad for the bike but i'm just wondering, new lingo.
QuoteYOU MUST : do full throttle bursts past 8k rpm and then let it engine decelerate from 8k , this will reseal your rings .
I will. 8 times a week at least.
once they're sealed I should do this anyway cause it's fun and keeps the rings sealed?
QuoteWarning disclaimer: the fj pulls hard above 6k rpm so hold on and find a straight piece of road for a few miles. USE 3rd gear . :gamer:
Is this your first motorcycle? :shok:
noted.
2nd, but my first was a 250cc buell, maxed out at 95mph
:drinks:
topped out my accord @ 127.
rode my pops chopper a few times.
taking 90degree turns @ 3000 in 2nd atm clean.
Quote from: theLeopard on June 13, 2014, 06:26:31 PM
Quote from: Mark Olson on June 13, 2014, 02:36:01 PM
:dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2:
do not rev to 9k in neutral ... with no load on engine it will break something.
ok. I was stunting !! I wanna do a wheelie so bad.
QuoteYOU MUST : ride your fj like it is a high performance sports car . Meaning if you baby it and don't rev it up and floor it (pin it ) it will LOAD UP and run like shit.
it sounds like your compression is improving with more use. This is normal for a fj that has been unused for a bit .
the rings will seal up and power will improve the more you ride it .
ok. I pushed it up to 6k today in 2nd a few times on the way to the store, running well.
what is loading up? I won't ride it like a baby since it's bad for the bike but i'm just wondering, new lingo.
QuoteYOU MUST : do full throttle bursts past 8k rpm and then let it engine decelerate from 8k , this will reseal your rings .
I will. 8 times a week at least.
once they're sealed I should do this anyway cause it's fun and keeps the rings sealed?
QuoteWarning disclaimer: the fj pulls hard above 6k rpm so hold on and find a straight piece of road for a few miles. USE 3rd gear . :gamer:
Is this your first motorcycle? :shok:
noted.
2nd, but my first was a 250cc buell, maxed out at 95mph
:drinks:
topped out my accord @ 127.
rode my pops chopper a few times.
taking 90degree turns @ 3000 in 2nd atm clean.
Hey Leopard ,
..Stunting is bad for the fj , the forks will bend in time so careful with the landing of the front end.
The long wheelbase prevents wheelies , so you will need to change your gear sprockets . A good combo with a stock chain is 17/45 .
...Rev past 6k thru 8k , It sounds like you have not done 8k yet while riding .
...Loading up is unburned fuel causing problems in engine ..fouled plugs , carbon buildup , shrouded valves ..etc.
...keep running the rpm's up and down while you ride this keeps the engine happy and yes it is fun.
...with this being your 2nd bike you will need some time to get used to the power .
...get some crash bar /case savers , good investment cause shit happens.
...REMEMBER to wear protective gear . this means boots ,pants ,jacket ,gloves and helmet that fits. (it is really cool when it matches your bike with a Mohawk on it)
this will help other riders to know you are a SQUID and give you some room so you can do wheelies and stunts.
...find out what the top speed of your fj is and keep in mind you have to subtract 8 mph because the speedo is not accurate.
the chp ticket with the actual speed is a great way to check your speedometer . others use gps.
... Remember to have fun. :good2:
:gamer: :biggrin: i'm getting excited at the prospect of actually starting to ride my fj.
with my luck it will explode from sun exposure tomorrow