This is my 1990 FJ project. I bought this bike from a friend of mine last summer for $500 and done nothing but clean the carbs and ride it once for about five miles. The previous owner had done some really horrible rattle-can paintwork and the tank was half sticky with melted paint from the gas... It was a mess.
I plan on just making it into a decent looking standard/cafe style motorcycle, with some subtle custom touches to the chassis geometry giving it a bit more of a Buell-like stance.
Here are some pics so far, and I'll post more as I go.
Looks good. If you need a good cheap paint, this place has a decent variety.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/ (http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/)
I used it and had good results. The solid color i used on the frame is fairly tough. Getting the motor
back in the frame didn't do the paint any good. It's a tight fit in the first place but the lower rear motor mount
hook over the frame a little. Thats the hardest part. If I do it again, I'll make and engine stand to stop the motor
from tettering while I handle the frame.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04988.jpg)
They don't have much pearl colors to choose from. I'm not all that happy with the firehorn red I have on the tank
and fairings but thats the brightest red pearl they have in acrylic enamel.
Just something to think about. Good luck. Joe :hi:
I am happy to see any FJ get loved and ridden. Keep posting on your project, it looks you will do a good job with the FJ. :good2: I wish my FJ could be inside the house...
Wow! That red really jumps out! I found an unopened pint of por15 chassis black paint, and am going to use that on the frame and subframe. I have to sand it still, but might paint tonight.
My experiences with por15 is that you want to try to do it all one time, because the paint is so tough it seals the can shut if you aren't super careful with how you pour it out (you can't brush straight from the container, as it cures with moisture.)
We shall see. It's a new can, and I am happy to use it up. The tank is polished and clear coated steel, so that is where my flash will come from. (the first pic is from BEfORE the tank was polished and cleared)
Stay tuned
I just love the look of the polished tank! Keep the pictures coming...this one will be interesting!
The tank is all finished now and ready to go. This Por15 is a little more flat than I was hoping for, but I'm going to let it dry nice and hard before I topcoat it with something with a little more gloss. I have several cans of hammerite-black that I am thinking of using on the main frame. Not sure yet. The tank is the bright-centerpoint, and I like mechanical style of the motor with all its fins and large proportions.
I lifted the rear tank-mount about an inch to show off the carbs, and increased the angle of the subframe.
Great build, look forward to seeing finished product! Something to keep in mind about the tank is the higher you have it at the back the less fuel you have when it gets low, as it all runs toward the front and the tap is at the back.
Another thing to look out for is the fitment of the pods as they will interfere with the sub frame now that you have it set on higher angle. Keep up the good work!
Finished with painting the engine and frame. Minor detail work to fasteners and such, and I'm ready to start putting it back together...
Painted the motor with Rustoleum high-heat semigloss black, hit the fins with a 2" 80 grit flap-disc and reinstalled in the frame.
I wasn't sure about a black frame, but I reckon that looks quite alright so far :good2:
This (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=11779.0;attach=2435;image) looks killer. Gold braking unit really sets it off.
Where's your exhaust manifold?
Thanks for the compliments. My exhaust is still sitting in a tub with its related parts and will likely be the last thing to go back on. If I can find a cheap 4-1 used system I will go that route instead of the heavy stocker.
This whole project is being done on the cheap, but with my usual attention to detail. I want to sell it next spring. I need to paint the subfram tomorrow and then I can show you all the tank and how it turned out.
Little by little...
There's just something very relaxing about staying up late at night and methodically putting a machine together.
The later the night goes, the deeper the ruminating of the sacredness of a man reassembling a useful machine from disarray...
Anyway, I just put the rear-end on and very carefully adjusted the chain to spec. I wish I had an f4i shock to put in at this point, but I think I will have to spit-shine the old one and put it back in until later...
a few more. The chain has at least two hours of straight elbow grease with kerosene getting it back into shape and then soaking in 30w for a week... It is unbelievable the amount of gunk that can cake on and how aggressively it holds on.
Quote from: X-Ray on June 01, 2014, 12:36:35 AM
I wasn't sure about a black frame, but I reckon that looks quite alright so far :good2:
I chose black because I wanted to draw attention as far away from that awkward front stem-reinforcement. I wanted to build a classic cafe/standard style motorcycle with a vintage look, but I didn't get to choose what kind of motorcycle it would be, and the FJ frame is not ideal.
I thought through my options and in the end, I opted to leave the forward framework ahead of the forks and draw the eye away from it with bright tank and headlight/instruments.
I've set by budget at $1000 for this project. I've already spent $500 for the bike, and about $20 on paint and flapdiscs.
This is just a mockup, but the angles are all set. I think I am going to paint the subframe a dark metallic, but maybe just gloss black. The tail is to-be determined, but probably a simple piece of polished aluminum curving over the taillight up to the seat. I need to put the battery in the tail.
I'm going to bed.
Nice, keep it coming...
Black swingarm would really make that thing pop.
Quote from: andyb on June 02, 2014, 02:51:11 PM
Black swingarm would really make that thing pop.
You think? I'm not sure, I like the raw aluminum look too. I think the front forks would definitely look good black, but that is also because the original clearcoated aluminum is is crazed and hazy. Ideally I would use a gold anodized USD fork, but that would kill the budget...
You might be right, but I will wait until after I have painted the subframe to decide on that. I definitely don't want it to look like someone just went after it with a can of black spraypaint (which is actually exactly what is happening;)
If you just clear the tank in the state it's in, leave the forks shiny, and you'll have a good balance of color. No point in drawing attention to the stock arm. I'd probably do the subframe black as well. Maybe polish the sprocket up, dunno. Slippery slope.. just one more change, y`know...
Tank is already cleared and done.
I am starting to agree with you about the swingarm.
Lets see what it looks like with the subframe black.
Nicw project you have going there dma251 :good2: :good2:
Keep those photos comming, we can't get enough of them :wacko3:
Cheers
Ken
I have been slowly assembling, and have made a few solid decisions as far as the tail goes...
I have long considered and finally committed to ditching the backseat. Today I chopped off the last 8 inches of the subframe and cut down the seat. I want to fit all the electrics and battery back in the tail behind the rider, and finally I can start playing around with shapes for a small stainless rear cowl. I have some cool stainless mesh from a gas-turbine engine I used to have, and I might integrate that too.
I have lots of peaceful meditation ahead working on this project, and I'm into it $520.
The sharp edge on the back of the seat is not finished. I will tuck it down and tight, I just don't want to do any trimming until I have a plan for the the cowl...
I'm having a blast doing this. I haven't done a frame-off motorcycle project for 20 years...
I assume you're going to take a miss on using any of the stock bodywork.
You're probably going to want to use one of the tiny lithium batteries, or the taillight area is going to start looking awfully silly.
You don't want to hear this, but it'll give you something to do: Take the subframe off and toss it. Make one from square section tubing. The frame and swingarm are squareish tubing, and the round tubing looks a bit out of place. Making it black will help to hide it, but if you could make something from box tubing, it'd look more cohesive, plus give you the chance to properly sort out a place for the electrical bits.
Quote from: andyb on June 04, 2014, 01:00:59 AM
I assume you're going to take a miss on using any of the stock bodywork.
You're probably going to want to use one of the tiny lithium batteries, or the taillight area is going to start looking awfully silly.
You don't want to hear this, but it'll give you something to do: Take the subframe off and toss it. Make one from square section tubing. The frame and swingarm are squareish tubing, and the round tubing looks a bit out of place. Making it black will help to hide it, but if you could make something from box tubing, it'd look more cohesive, plus give you the chance to properly sort out a place for the electrical bits.
It's true, I have no use for bodywork. I spent several weeks last summer carefully removing and smoothing over any trace of the bazillion fasteners, brackets, tabs, loops, etc...
I know this might seem like sacrilege to many of the members here who love the lines of the FJ's. I wound up with this bike by happenstance, and its original bodywork was a mess. I'm making the beast out of a rough situation, and if it pays for itself when I sell it - fantastic.
I've considered starting with square-tubing, but I have seen so many attempts at it that look like hell. Truth is the factory actually did it right with the triangle shape and made a simple 4-point subframe. I just smoothed it out and trimmed it a little.
I think I have enough time into the stocker subframe, if I started over now it would bug me more. I think once it's black, it won't make much difference.
I definitely appreciate input, though!
I love what you are doing with this bike. The polished tank looks awesome and really shows off the nice shape - it looks like one of those $1000 custom alloy jobs. The FJ is not an easy bike to do a naked conversion.
I have been researching this for a while and there are some awful examples around. Yours is one of the better ones.
I recently crashed my FJ , destroying the fairing and am very tempted to go this route. I have a picture in my mind of what I want and hope you dont mind if I borrow some of your ideas, especially the tank.
Will be following the rest of this build with much interest
Quote from: dma251 on June 04, 2014, 01:18:19 AM
Quote from: andyb on June 04, 2014, 01:00:59 AM
Take the subframe off and toss it. Make one from square section tubing. The frame and swingarm are squareish tubing, and the round tubing looks a bit out of place. Making it black will help to hide it, but if you could make something from box tubing, it'd look more cohesive, plus give you the chance to properly sort out a place for the electrical bits.
I've considered starting with square-tubing, but I have seen so many attempts at it that look like hell. Truth is the factory actually did it right with the triangle shape and made a simple 4-point subframe.
You could always box in the existing tube with "U" section steel (if you have a welder) Keep the shape, get the look.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on June 04, 2014, 05:49:05 AM
Quote from: dma251 on June 04, 2014, 01:18:19 AM
Quote from: andyb on June 04, 2014, 01:00:59 AM
Take the subframe off and toss it. Make one from square section tubing. The frame and swingarm are squareish tubing, and the round tubing looks a bit out of place. Making it black will help to hide it, but if you could make something from box tubing, it'd look more cohesive, plus give you the chance to properly sort out a place for the electrical bits.
I've considered starting with square-tubing, but I have seen so many attempts at it that look like hell. Truth is the factory actually did it right with the triangle shape and made a simple 4-point subframe.
You could always box in the existing tube with "U" section steel (if you have a welder) Keep the shape, get the look.
Noel
It doesn't really need any additional strengthening. I will have to weld up mounting brackets for the tail cowl. I think I may use quarter-turn dzus-style fasteners with the fold-out tab to secure the metal rear-cowl when the time comes.
I am going to try my hand at building an 8 cell lithium-iron battery to fit back there. Electrical is definitely going to be the most time-consuming part of this project, but it is also my favorite part. I have a pretty well-equipped workshop.
FYI - if anyone is interested in seeing one of my larger restoration projects - here is a link.
http://steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?16105-updated-pics-of-my-hemtt-restoration (http://steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?16105-updated-pics-of-my-hemtt-restoration)
Quote from: stua1959 on June 04, 2014, 05:28:28 AM
I love what you are doing with this bike. The polished tank looks awesome and really shows off the nice shape - it looks like one of those $1000 custom alloy jobs. The FJ is not an easy bike to do a naked conversion.
I have been researching this for a while and there are some awful examples around. Yours is one of the better ones.
I recently crashed my FJ , destroying the fairing and am very tempted to go this route. I have a picture in my mind of what I want and hope you dont mind if I borrow some of your ideas, especially the tank.
Will be following the rest of this build with much interest
Brother, I completely agree about the FJ not being easy to do this to. As I said before, I didn't pick the FJ1200, it picked me. The steel frame is very difficult to make look right. I seriously have at least 8 hours carefully removing all the bracketry and smoothing it back down with 2" flap-discs and scotchbrite pads. Even still, I have to be very selective in how I choose the headlight, as that steel tube in front of the fork is right in the spot a headlight should be. Still not sure which style I'm going with, but leaning towards a single round 7-8" unit.
The tank turned out great. I used Jasco paint stripper to remove the stock paint, and then slowly polished it with 2" pads and elbow grease. Also carefully trimmed off a few body mounting tabs that are on the lower edge of the tank. I had a custom paintshop clear it with high-quality PPG clearcoat. It won't last as long as it would if it were primed and painted a real color, but it looks great and I am going to try the same thing with a front fender.
I am glad you like some of my ideas. That's what these forums are all about - sharing ideas. Take what you like, discard the rest. Just like life...
Quote from: dma251 on June 04, 2014, 10:31:03 AM
http://steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?16105-updated-pics-of-my-hemtt-restoration (http://steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?16105-updated-pics-of-my-hemtt-restoration)
Any chance of some pics of your finished truck resto? Link doesn`t allow me acces to the finished pics. I love this stuff. :good2:
Quote from: The General on June 04, 2014, 01:01:51 PM
Quote from: dma251 on June 04, 2014, 10:31:03 AM
http://steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?16105-updated-pics-of-my-hemtt-restoration (http://steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?16105-updated-pics-of-my-hemtt-restoration)
Any chance of some pics of your finished truck resto? Link doesn`t allow me acces to the finished pics. I love this stuff. :good2:
Here's a teaser pic. You have to register on the site to see the progression. It's got a lot of pics of this 3 year project that resulted in a $75000 sale. It's worth the login if you're into these types of projects. I've done three different army trucks ending with this big one.
Here's a shot from today. I have hung the mufflers, but the header is not on. I think I am going to paint the header and collector with light grey high-temp paint. Some lightly contrasting color from the black.
I have some welding to do on the subframe tomorrow. I used heavy steel gussets as my mounting point for the subframe when I altered its position. Unfortunately I was about a 1/4" off in my measurements and wound up needing to get creative....
Anyway, here's where I'm at so far...
Quote from: dma251 on June 07, 2014, 12:44:03 AM
Here's a shot from today...
Cripes, that garage is nicer than my kitchen.
rossi
Thats looking really sharp. I went through painting my down pipes and collector with VHT fireproof. I put 2 coats of primer (one can) and 6 coats of color (two cans) I fired the primer on a wood stove in the winter then I sprayed the 3 coats of color and fired it by running the bike.
The first can didn't cover that good and I just sprayed on the second can last month. I fired that on the bike too. I lightly sanded the first application before spraying. I'll be replacing my manifold gaskets soon and when I do that I want to spray the clear coat fireproof.
Quote from: rlucas on June 07, 2014, 10:47:40 AM
Quote from: dma251 on June 07, 2014, 12:44:03 AM
Here's a shot from today...
Cripes, that garage is nicer than my kitchen.
rossi
Thanks for the compliment! I had a pile of super-cheap laminate flooring, and to put it to use I laid it out in my garage. Over three years it has been subject to every imaginable abuse including floorjacks lifting pickup trucks, frequent welding without ever a mark, jackstands supporting a lexus ls400, multiple oil, brake fluid, atf puddles. Everything just wipes right off it.
Seriously, it is the best bang-for-your-buck improvement to your garage you can make.
The absolute BEST THING about it is this - you can put your bike on the centerstand or sidestand, and then just slide it around on the floor into whatever location you want! You just lift the back of the bike, and walk it around. The floor makes it slide.
I realized that the best template for what the tail should look like on tis bike is the remnent of the seat.
I really like the shape of the seat, and the way it is clearly two separate planes. I was about to start building a cardboard model of a tailpiece, but I decided to play with the old half-seat instead and now new ideas are starting to flow....
Some of you might have noticed I am avoiding the absolute worst part of the FJ frame to deal with... The headlight.
The front bar is in the worst of spots - right where a headlight naturally would be positioned. I have a 7" chrome honda headlight/bucket that I have been coaxing my wife into holding in various positions. None look quite right.
10 years ago I owned a 2001 Buell X1 White-lightning - the one with the cool powder-blue coated header pipe. I've had almost a dozen bikes since then, but that's still at the top of the list for short-distance fun.
My FJ-project is heavily-influenced by that bike.
Because of that, I have steered in the direction of a single large diameter chrome-rimmed headlight. Unfortunately because of that damn bar, I need to find other solutions.
Maybe two smaller diameter headlights, but everyone has done that. Maybe two stacked vertically, like the Ducati 999.... Kind of an Art-Deco-Locomotive design....
How about two headlights horizontally one large, one small Ala the BMW ? Or, the "broke-down sportbike" headlight sticking out there all proud by itself?
I have considered going the hi-tech LED bar headlights. Maybe even something vertical, like along the fork legs. Problem is it doesn't fit the vintage style of the bike so-well....
I don't know... My gut tells me that this is a simple, down-and-dirty standard, with a single, large-diameter round headlight, but how...
Sometimes I wonder if inevitably trends will swing around and maybe really large diameter headlights will become cool?
I could see a 9" or 10" flat-lensed headlight, LED of course, but behind a diffused lens, and with a black treated aluminum housing with matching fork mounts....
I know. I'm dreaming...
Saw my first Honda ruckus scooter yesterday. It had a twin headlight setup on the front that looked good and put out a phenomenal amount of light. That naked FJ would look good with twins mounted on the front. That said I am an old guy who prefers the conventional look. Round clocks, round headlight and spoked wheels. Dave
I love the Rukus! Looks like riding a recliner down the road!
The guy who was riding it had the passenger seat folded up for a backrest. He said it was only 250cc but it would get down the highway. The guy riding with him wanted the same headlight setup for his bike but said Honda wanted $300 for the lights and bracket. Didn't look like it would be to hard to fabricate. Dave
Some headlight ideas others have tried:
fjowners.wikidot.com/naked
I used to think it was impossible, but some people have come up with some good looking options. Hope that helps with inspiration. Yours looks great, keep it up. :hi:
Just a quick thought. What about cutting the housing slightly too fit around the bar and clamp around the bar on the inside. that way you could rotate it for up and down adjustment.
I'm still procrastinating about the headlight and am more focussed on the tail and electrical right now.
I have removed all the nonessential wiring from the harness and relocated the TCI box and all the relays to the rear of the bike/harness.
I am going to make a harness support bracket that will carry the harness right down the center of the fuel tank, leaving it mostly out of sight. It will travel over the carbs and into the shallow pan under the seat that I welded in today. I chopped up an old service-van shelving unit and used the steel to enclose the tail. I ran out of gas for my mig welder, so I had to switch to flux-core, which doesn't make my already ugly welds any prettier. Before I paint I will seal the edges with body-seam sealer, and will cover them up... Not my usual method, but I don't want to see welds anyway.
Check it out....
I have been playing around with the bar position the last couple of nights because it just didn't look right with the high-riding FJ clip-ons. I tried a few different things with them, including sliding them down below the tripleclamp. That got them to the right position, but they hit the tank.
It's official. I can't work with the old risers. Need clip-ons. I removed the heated grips and the throttlemeister, as I don't need any of that for this bike. It will never be comfortable enough to need a cruise control or warm hands. This is a different kind of FJ ;)
I have given myself a strict mandate that this project not exceed $1000, and I've spent a hair past $500 already including the bike, so I need to make some parts pay for others. The Throttlemeister sold and turned into this set of used Woodcraft clipons.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171357651847?item=171357651847&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171357651847?item=171357651847&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr)
When they arrive there will be some more pics!
I tried lightening this picture to maybe give you some ideas. If that piece of the frame that goes around the front of the steering head wasn't there, it would make things a lot simpler.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/640-333270_1Yamaha_FJ_1188-1.jpg)
Lowered forks 1.75" so tops are flush with the triple-clamp. Seems like it sits about the same, which is what I wanted.
I'm waiting for the clip-ons to get here so i can put the controls back on, which will allow me to start fiddling with the headlight again, and maybe get around to painting the subframe, putting exhaust back on... This is fun!
Quote from: Joe Sull on June 17, 2014, 07:03:00 PM
If that piece of the frame that goes around the front of the steering head wasn't there, it would make things a lot simpler.
It sure would, but as Donald Rumsfeld would have said - "You go to war with the bike you have, not the bike you want"
I have spent many a drunken night complaining about that bar. Here's how it sits tonight, waiting for the clip-ons to arrive so I can move on.
I have moved on to electrical. Pretty soon I'm gonna have to start deciding on the battery and instrumentation. I'm going with acewell or koso for the gauges. Prob try building one of those LiFe batteries first and see how it works. For know it's hooked up to "shore-power" while I troubleshoot the electrical...
Looking good. How do those clip ons feel.
Thinking of velocity stacks?
Think about your plan on running the wires over the top center of the engine.
There is a reason why Yamaha ran the wires along the side frame rails.
It's going to be wrapped in this - http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable-sleeving/=sn0qr9 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable-sleeving/=sn0qr9)
and I'm using stand-offs and silicone-lined stainless cable-straps to keep at least 1" over the valve-cover.
Believe me, I've given it thought and I know the disadvantages, but there is no easy way to hide it where it passes past the trailing-edge of the head where it pinches down close to the frame.
I think it will do alright as long as it's wrapped and secured. Plus, my tank is higher, so there is an inch of extra space to keep the harness up and off the engine.
I appreciate the caution, though. For anyone doing this, you definitely need to insulate and chaff-protect the harness over the engine.
Ok, good deal....you've thought it through....kudos!
Also a plus, with your open design, you won't have as much heat trapped under the tank with no fairing or side panels.
I use some aluminum foil faced duct tape on my clutch line, works great.....although with electrical wires you would want some kind of cushioning insulation between the wires and foil duct tape. No sharp edges.
:good2:
That earlier link didn't go to the specific product, but this should -
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2627k36/=sn17wy (http://www.mcmaster.com/#2627k36/=sn17wy)
It's high-heat insulated foil wrap/sleeve. I've used it before for o2 sensor wires and it works great.
Quote from: dma251 on June 27, 2014, 02:58:01 PM
I have moved on to electrical...
Looking at your 4th & 5th pictures, you really should not use Tygon tubing for the pressurized fuel line. That tubing gets soft with heat and then the hose can rupture.
Secondly, you have two fuel lines at the carbs, that indicates gravity feed carbs and the needle seats inside the bowls must be changed to use a fuel pump or you will never get it to stop flooding.
And finally, in picture 4, the slide on the #1 carb is stuck in the raised position.
Just a couple of things I noticed.
Randy - RPM
..... dma251, One of my mods. that I did to my FJ is, I ran a home made wiring harness through a 27inch bicycle tube [for insulation] and then I ran the tube through the frame. .... So, you can not see the harness at all.
I also, did the same, with the braided clutch line,..... no more hot or dirt clutch/brake fluid.
Jeff
The dog in picture 4 is telling you to listen to Randy :good2: :lol:
George
Quote from: racerrad8 on June 30, 2014, 07:36:23 PM
Quote from: dma251 on June 27, 2014, 02:58:01 PM
I have moved on to electrical...
Looking at your 4th & 5th pictures, you really should not use Tygon tubing for the pressurized fuel line. That tubing gets soft with heat and then the hose can rupture.
Secondly, you have two fuel lines at the carbs, that indicates gravity feed carbs and the needle seats inside the bowls must be changed to use a fuel pump or you will never get it to stop flooding.
And finally, in picture 4, the slide on the #1 carb is stuck in the raised position.
Just a couple of things I noticed.
Randy - RPM
Randy - thank you very much for your thoughts! I was concerned about the tygon tubing too. I really wanted to find some fuel line that was the same type as the OEM, but all I could find was that fiber-reinforced stuff that is very thick-walled and shiny. I planned on using spring-clamps, but I will scrap it and get the right stuff.
My bigger concern is what you said about my carbs. My assumption about this bike when I got it was that it was stock. I always assumed my carbs were fuel-pump style stockers. I opened them up and found 112.5 main jets. I've gotten conflicting research as to whether that is stock for 1990.
The bike was poorly running when I got it, but no obvious signs of work or swapping going on. I thought I lost a section of fuel line and tee-fitting over the course of the last year since I initially got the bike and tinkered with it, so I bought a T-fitting and the new fuel line. There is one central fitting between carbs 2-3 that has what i thought was a vent line attached, but now I am going to get my book out....
Can you take another close look at the carb pic and confirm what you think I have here?
Quote from: dma251 on June 30, 2014, 09:31:22 PM
Randy - thank you very much for your thoughts! I was concerned about the tygon tubing too. I really wanted to find some fuel line that was the same type as the OEM, but all I could find was that fiber-reinforced stuff that is very thick-walled and shiny. I planned on using spring-clamps, but I will scrap it and get the right stuff.
My bigger concern is what you said about my carbs. My assumption about this bike when I got it was that it was stock. I always assumed my carbs were fuel-pump style stockers. I opened them up and found 112.5 main jets. I've gotten conflicting research as to whether that is stock for 1990.
The bike was poorly running when I got it, but no obvious signs of work or swapping going on. I thought I lost a section of fuel line and tee-fitting over the course of the last year since I initially got the bike and tinkered with it, so I bought a T-fitting and the new fuel line. There is one central fitting between carbs 2-3 that has what i thought was a vent line attached, but now I am going to get my book out....
Can you take another close look at the carb pic and confirm what you think I have here?
The center line is the fuel inlet is you have that. If you have the Tygon tubing hooked to the white tees between the carbs those are bowl vent lines...
Jet size does not indicate that carbs you have...
Randy - RPM
Fuel pump vs gravity flow...it's all about your float needle seat size..
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0)
I just checked - I have TWO white plastic t-fittings that are further from the intake openings, and one SINGLE metal fitting between 2-3 that is closer to the intake openings....
What have I got here?!?!? Now I am starting to wonder...
As Randy pointed out, the center nipple is the gas inlet...it feeds the 4 carbs.
the 2 white T's where you have the Tygon lines are the fuel bowl vents.
Looks like you have fuel pump carbs....
Here is a picture of my 1990 FJ carbs. The two white tees are vents the metal one is the fuel inlet :good2:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/1651_28_11_13_5_59_52.jpeg)
Note the one JIS POS screw has been replaced with a SS Allen head :)..
Excellent! I really appreciate the headaches you guys saved me from!
My next q
Randy's the man to thank :drinks: :drinks:
George
I've been doing "forum-assisted" projects for the last 15 years. None would have happened without forums and enthusiasts like this....
Randy - I am placing an order tomorrow for pod filters and jets.
Here's the results of my latest series of late-night drinking and smoking in Washington State.....
I made an instrument cluster out of a mount from a gas-turbine engine I had, and I bought 12v bulbs for the crazy little indicator lights that were on it. They're surplus military, push-to-test, made from machined aluminum and have a mechanical shutter in them for dimming. Just such a great example of design overkill at tax-payer expense. I saved them knowing I would find the right project to use them one-day, and this is that time.
Gauge will be my iPhone velcro-mounted. I also wired into the harness an iPhone charge cord to switched-power.
Also working on the headlight. I have two more of these cool cnc aluminum mounts, and I want to integrate them into this somehow. It's the bucket for a cx500 and the ring and lens from something else Stanley. (I always thought that was an awfully American sounding name to be a Japanese lighting company....)
Also started ordering parts for the lithium-Iron battery I am building for it. Don't know what to do about the tail yet.....
Maybe I'll figure that out over the winter. I want to learn how to copper-plate.....
This looks like it is going to be a real fun bike to ride, :good2:
Cool project. Nice work.
Nice work! Like how you are reusing parts and materials from completely different purposes
Keep up the good work !
Looking good. What is in that bucket, looks like rat was there :rofl2: :rofl2:
Quote from: big r on July 25, 2014, 11:41:19 AM
Looking good. What is in that bucket, looks like rat was there :rofl2: :rofl2:
I think you are referring to my scrap wiring tub. Its all the harnesses I've collected over the years. I keep lengths over about 1' and most of the time can match up color/stripe colors exactly. This bike has required major surgery to the wiring harness, and if I had known what was ahead, I would have just started over from scratch. One of the issues is that the components (ignitor box, relays, fuses, etc.) were scattered throughout the length of th bike, so I had to relocate everything to one side of the harness or the other. I also reduced its complexity significantly.
One of the complications is how I was going to use two-wire trucklite LED clearance lights as running/signal lights. I had to add two relays to be able to accomplish both functions. That added to the mess...
One thing I am considering is rewiring the run/kill switch to act as an ignition/main power switch. This way I can delete the ignition switch and maybe later install a hidden toggle as a security mechanism. Theft is not an issue where I live, but the next owner may want a little security.
I think your project looks great.
About your idea of a hidden "security" toggle switch for the ignition.......
My first bike had no keyed ignition switch, just a fork lock.
I added a "security" toggle switch hidden up under the tank.
Then I went to my job which was at the Ford Utica trim plant NE of Detroit.
When I finished work at about midnight, I went out to my bike, brushed the light dusting of snow off the seat, and proceeded to kick it for about 1/2 an hour until I remembered my new hidden switch. :bad:
It started with the next kick. Boy, was I dumb back then.
Quote from: Arnie on July 25, 2014, 09:12:38 PM
........and proceeded to kick it for about 1/2 an hour until I remembered my new hidden switch. :bad:
It started with the next kick.
Arnie, that must have been the Norton, it would take that much kicking before realising something was wrong and not just normal starting procedure. :biggrin:
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on July 25, 2014, 09:37:06 PM
Quote from: Arnie on July 25, 2014, 09:12:38 PM
........and proceeded to kick it for about 1/2 an hour until I remembered my new hidden switch. :bad:
It started with the next kick.
Arnie, that must have been the Norton, it would take that much kicking before realising something was wrong and not just normal starting procedure. :biggrin:
Noel
Noel,
You malign the mighty Norton unfairly when the real culprit which causes hard starting in Nortons is the Luke'sAss electrics. Once I'd replaced the Lucas coils with K-mart branded Chevy V8 coils, my Norton would start 1st or 2nd kick (as long as you kicked it properly).
No, the bike in question was a Bultaco Metralla 250. It had "Femsa" ignition pieces (think poor quality Luke'sAss) and genuine Luke'sAss lighting bits. It was not a "hard starter" when right, but could start backwards if the timing was a bit off.
Anyhow, the switch was installed on the Bul.
Today I received the diodes I needed to tie the right and left turn signal indicator wires together on one indicator lamp. Still haven't received the special midget-flange 12vdc bulbs for these indicators. One of the neatest things about these little indicator lamps is that they have a mechanical aperture shutter that can mechanically dim the light. Something I love about military surplus - Since the taxpayers were paying, everything is of the highest quality. These little indicator lamps came from a sweet little gas-turbine APU for starting jets.
The cost to the taxpayers for these little jump-starters was only $28,000.
Nice job! :good2: Have you already ordered stuff for the battery build? Can recommend this otherwise http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14074__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8400mAh_4S2P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack.html, (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14074__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8400mAh_4S2P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack.html,) haven´t got mine yet, but almost cheaper than doing one ur self :)
Quote from: Bearmeister on July 27, 2014, 10:29:02 AM
Nice job! :good2: Have you already ordered stuff for the battery build? Can recommend this otherwise. haven´t got mine yet, but almost cheaper than doing one ur self
Thanks for the compliment! I have bought from hobbyking for many years and have actually had really good results from their batteries. I have only ordered the plastic interlocking spacers that snap on the cells, as they take the longest to get. I wanted to enjoy the satisfaction of building my own battery, but I have to say - that Zippy looks very tempting.
Since I cleaned the carbs my bike starts really easy (<1 second), so maybe this battery would work for my limited needs. If this were a long-haul cruiser I would definitely go with a bigger, more reliable battery.
I really need to start figuring out a headlight mount...
Question: I have to wire my neutral and low-fuel indicator lights. I am very concerned about the possibility of creating an arc in the tank by wiring the low-fuel light incorrectly.
Can I wire the indicator light with 12vdc to the light and then use the tank signal wire to ground, or does that risk an arc in the tank?
My harness is nowhere close to stock, and the original relay assembly is long gone.
What do you all think of high-pipes? I can't afford to replace the stock exhaust, but I think it would look a lot better up higher.
One of the benefits is I get rid of about 20 lbs. of metal. Flip side is no more centerstand (I can live without that for this kind of bike), more mass higher off the ground, which is not a great thing...
I think it gonna work well for this project...
i dont know how i missed this. good work. nice to see somone else doing a custom. and i totally understand your thought process on using black frame to hide some of its bulk inside of itself. looking forward to seeing this finished. i only read the first and last page haha guna go back and read in between now.
I love how this project is going, it's exactly what I'd like to do to my FJ. I don't have the skills or the garage to work in, but I'll do my best with what I do have. Learning a lot from your bike though, great work.
I think the pipes look great, like they belong there. But where are you going to put the brake master?
Quote from: giantkiller on August 13, 2014, 08:59:48 AM
I think the pipes look great, like they belong there. But where are you going to put the brake master?
Thanks for the feedback on the pipes. There's not much you can do with stock cans. If anyone has a 4-1 system collecting dust they want to part with cheaply let me know, otherwise I'm sticking with the stockers for now. The modification to the collector is very minor to tweak it upwards so this mod will work.
The brake master is a problem, and even More-so is that the rear brake pedal has nothing to attach itself to now. I think I am going to try dime city cycles rearset kit.
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-custom-motorcycle-chassis-transmission-universal-rearsets-32-diyrs-sld.html (http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-custom-motorcycle-chassis-transmission-universal-rearsets-32-diyrs-sld.html)
The price is reasonable, and I don't feel up fabricating a whole new system, that's a lot of trial and error.
Still haven't gotten a straight answer about my low fuel light wiring I asked a few posts back. Anyone know if I am risking a spark in the tank by wiring power to the indicator light, and letting the switch drop to ground when the level is low? (does that make sense?). I still have to wire the low fuel light, neutral light, and low oil light. Fuel is obviously the one that concerns me.
Also still need to figure out if my fuel pump is bad. I jump around on big projects like this. If I get tired or stumped with one aspect, I switch to something else to clear the frustration. ThIs forum is awesome for getting feedback, and showing the progress to people who actually giveashit really keeps the fires burning...
This project is a slow process for me, but I appreciate every bit of advise I get.
Thanks all!
Quote from: Joe Sull on June 17, 2014, 07:03:00 PM
I tried lightening this picture to maybe give you some ideas. If that piece of the frame that goes around the front of the steering head wasn't there, it would make things a lot simpler.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/640-333270_1Yamaha_FJ_1188-1.jpg)
Anyone know what bike this headlight came off of?
Just a guess but maybe a triumph triple.
You could buy a set of aftermarket adjustable rearsets and make a 10mm thick aluminium bracket to bolt them to and space the rearsets outwards to clear the pipe then mount your master to the rearset. The only prob you will have is the gear lever side the side stand will get in the way but a bit of modification and your good to go.
Quote from: Fj.itis on August 13, 2014, 05:05:31 PM
Just a guess but maybe a triumph triple.
You could buy a set of aftermarket adjustable rearsets and make a 10mm thick aluminium bracket to bolt them to and space the rearsets outwards to clear the pipe then mount your master to the rearset. The only prob you will have is the gear lever side the side stand will get in the way but a bit of modification and your good to go.
I like your idea, but it comes down to price. Up until last winter I had a spoolgun for my welder and was planning on learning to Mig aluminum. I never used it, so I sold it on ebay. Now I wish I still had it for this project. Would have made rearset fab a lot easier. I think I am going to try to find a TIG system and learn to weld aluminum that way. I've done it a little, but practice, practice, practice is the way to learn TIG.
I want to start work on another bike this fall (honda cx 500 bobber), so I'd like to get the FJ wrapped up or at least to a good stopping point.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3982_14_03_14_7_42_33.jpeg)
Not a very clear pic but you get the idea, the rear sets were 130 plus 10 for the 10mm aluminium cut off. I didn't need to weld anything as my tig doesn't do aluminium. Just shape the aluminium to the peg holes then project it to where you want your feet to be. Doesn't have to be perfect as they are adjustable so you can move them around.
Quote from: Fj.itis on August 13, 2014, 05:05:31 PM
Just a guess but maybe a triumph triple.
My first guess, too, but I don't think so. Try here for a little comparo\options:
http://www.sportbikelites.com/HEADLIGHTS-s/655.htm (http://www.sportbikelites.com/HEADLIGHTS-s/655.htm)
Another option is to use stock Busa peg sets mounted on aluminum plates
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/171_22_05_10_11_33_48_0.jpeg)
Busa pegs were inexpensive and used basic hand tools to cut out the plates