I did some searches about this so I don't waste anyone's time, but frankly, the search feature on this board leaves much to be desired.
I bought new tires and am putting them on myself.
The Chilton manual says you have to remove the right caliper to get the ABS sensor off, but I don't see why?
Is removing the caliper really necessary?
But the ABS Sensor bolt has me worried. It looks like it's a 5mm Allen head bolt, but when I try to loosen it it feels like it's going to strip the head. It doesn't seem like it's SAE sized either.
Any ideas of removing it?
Thanks
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af341/BILLYMINDER/ABSsensorbolt_zps2fcd8584.jpeg)
For Brake rotor bolts and I would do the same with the ABS sensor bolt. Use a hex bit socket and ratchet. Also for a little better grip, apply a small amount of valve lapping compound to the end of the hex bit.
The brake rotor bolts usually have blue locktite applied and are sometimes difficult to remove. Keep in mind, the ABS sensor bolt may also have had blue locktite applied.
Fred
The socket looks a bit wallowed out anyway... I'd consider cutting a slot in it.
Quote from: aviationfred on May 19, 2014, 12:58:26 PM
For Brake rotor bolts and I would do the same with the ABS sensor bolt. Use a hex bit socket and ratchet. Also for a little better grip, apply a small amount of valve lapping compound to the end of the hex bit.
The brake rotor bolts usually have blue locktite applied and are sometimes difficult to remove. Keep in mind, the ABS sensor bolt may also have had blue locktite applied.
Fred
Dang, I'm fresh out of valve lapping compound... :biggrin:
Is it really necessary to remove the caliper? I don't see why...
You don't have to remove the caliper to remove the ABS sensor, but you will have to remove the caliper to get the wheel off. If there's enough slack in the wire, you might be able to leave the sensor in place and just let it dangle with the cover it's mounted too.
well does that mean I should remove both calipers not just the right one?
I do, makes it much easier. Use a long bread tie to tie the calipers to the frame and avoid letting the calipers hang from their brake lines.
I got a 5mm hex socket, but the bolt head seems to want to strip. I don't have a grinder to cut a slot in it... not sure what to do next.
You do not need to remove the ABS sensor to remove the wheel.
Kurt
If you are ready to cut a slot in it, you have already decided that the bolt will need to be replaced.
So, you can buy a Dremel (type) unit to cut a slot, or you may be able to grab the bolt head with a pair of ViceGrips to turn it out. Either way will damage the head.
Or, you could drill the head just enough to pop it off and then turn the screw out with ViceGrips.
As some have suggested, there *may* be enough slack in the ABS sensor cable to get the wheel off. Both brake calipers sit essentially "inside" the wheel...so you will have to pull the calipers to get the wheel off.
Cap'n Ron. . .
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on May 19, 2014, 07:30:27 PM
You do not need to remove the ABS sensor to remove the wheel.
Kurt
I don't understand.
The cable that runs down to the wheel and is attached to the ABS disk with that Allen head bolt, doesn't that have to be removed to get the wheel off?
Quote from: Bminder on May 19, 2014, 09:51:58 PM
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on May 19, 2014, 07:30:27 PM
You do not need to remove the ABS sensor to remove the wheel.
Kurt
I don't understand.
The cable that runs down to the wheel and is attached to the ABS disk with that Allen head bolt, doesn't that have to be removed to get the wheel off?
No, that plate sits in the wheel and just pulls out. It is not attached to the wheel. Trust me you do not need to remove the sensor. The only things holding that plate in place is the axle and tab on the lower fork leg. You will see. Unbolt the calipers, remove axle pinch bolt, remove front axle, roll the wheel out and pull the backing plate for the ABS sensor out of the way. You are all done. Hope this helps.
Kurt
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on May 19, 2014, 10:06:02 PM
Quote from: Bminder on May 19, 2014, 09:51:58 PM
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on May 19, 2014, 07:30:27 PM
You do not need to remove the ABS sensor to remove the wheel.
Kurt
I don't understand.
The cable that runs down to the wheel and is attached to the ABS disk with that Allen head bolt, doesn't that have to be removed to get the wheel off?
No, that plate sits in the wheel and just pulls out. It is not attached to the wheel. Trust me you do not need to remove the sensor. The only things holding that plate in place is the axle and tab on the lower fork leg. You will see. Unbolt the calipers, remove axle pinch bolt, remove front axle, roll the wheel out and pull the backing plate for the ABS sensor out of the way. You are all done. Hope this helps.
Kurt
Gosh Darn it!!! I wish I knew that 12 hours ago!!! Another example of Chiltons having extra unnecessary steps!
That's why I love this board!
You guys are the best!
I was just telling a friend this morning that my FJ would not be on the road today if it wasn't for this board!
Y'know...there are things that the manual is great for and you have to follow to the letter. Valve shims, measuring the cylinder bore, torque specs on the engine cases and the like. Unbolting a wheel? I can't imagine referring to a factory service manual for such a thing.
Put your bike up on the center stand and strap the rear of the bike to something heavy to raise the front wheel. Roll up your tool kit and grab a seat with the front wheel between your legs. Once you look at the front axle. you'll wonder what that pinch bolt is doing and loosen it. Then you'll gently drop the front wheel and realize that the calipers are holding you up. No big deal...Just remove the two caliper bolts and the wheel seems to be free. Wait...there's this pesky speedo cable hangin' me up. Better get that out of the way. You remove it to find that the last barrier is the ABS sensor. Lower the wheel and the whole ABS sensor disk comes free of the hub. Pull it aside and the wheel is yours to do as you please.
It's no different than de-boning a chicken. You just look for what is still attached and sort that out. :good2:
Cap'n Ron. . .
Quote from: Bminder on May 19, 2014, 03:39:28 PM
I got a 5mm hex socket, but the bolt head seems to want to strip. I don't have a grinder to cut a slot in it... not sure what to do next.
You appear not to need them for you current job but it's a good excuse to remind folks, normal Allan keys are useless unless the bolt is not very tight, they are too springy and difficult to keep straight and make it easy to wreck the bolt head.
(https://dq4zp01npifg0.cloudfront.net/sites/default/files/styles/teaser/public/field/commerce/IMG_0061.jpg?itok=0X7c9Mw3)
Anyone working on these bikes should have a set of these, they go on you socket set. You can buy them for less than $20, Only use
METRICNoel