It's on for Bonneville Speed Week 2014. Dates are 9 - 15 Aug with tech inspections beginning the 7th.
First hurdle was getting rooms in Wendover - got rooms for the 10th - 14th (think that was back in Jan or Feb when the hotels begin to accept reservations for Speed Week). My son and I may go down a day prior and camp out one night so we can get tech knocked out.
Today just sent in the membership form and pre-registration and $$ ( deadline is tomorrow -- then the prices go up).
Last night started tearing into the bike. It's the 89 I've owned for 14+ years now. It's never been a particularly "pretty" bike and could never be called a show bike -- I've always called it "BattleAxe". I've commuted on it, done a couple day trips, weekend rides, started drag racing on it, was stolen and quickly recovered, has had three engines, and of course done a mod or two. It was a non-runner due to electrics when I bought it - with a few issues in the wiring harness I always meant to "go back and fix properly"...instead it always seemed I was changing something else, adding or deleting something, and never really getting around to making a proper repair.
Post theft recovery and with the stock engine from a 90 parts bike
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/171_25_04_10_12_43_03_0.jpeg)
I guess the FJ fates decided several days ago to give me the proper time and incentive to take the bike off the road long enough to do some proper repairs and prep for Bonneville...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_09_05_14_10_02_08.jpeg)
Started in on it last night after I got some parts in the mail. Stripping it down now to get ready to replace the wiring harness and switch gear, get ready to install the 1314 engine, and start some mods that will be helpful for Bonneville.
Got going before I thought to take a "before" pic...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_09_05_14_9_59_33.jpeg)
Most of the mods will be concentrated on getting the bike lower, getting me tucked behind the fairing, getting good power out of the engine, and trying to make sure the power gets to the ground instead of spinning and blistering the tire.
92 days and counting...
I've said it before... I think that bike just looks badass. :yes:
Chris, what kind of speed do you think you can get out of her? 170? 180?
This is going to be fun to watch...
I'll be impressed if you can break 160 on salt, honestly. You're going to need to get a custom sprocket, probably as tall as 35. 10% will be lost to wheelspin.
Nevermind that you're shoving a brick through the air. Is it legal to just remove the seat and sit on the battery? Probably the simplest solution, not legal in some classes (and if you're thinking about it on the `ole 1320, it feels horribly strange, trebly so if you're footshifting!!!!! You may consider throwing some weight at the swingarm to get it to hook, and keep it as short as possible. Weight transfer will be your friend as much as it can, but there's a limit to what you'll mange. I would suggest keeping your street tire though, and putting as much air as you're comforatable with in it (up to maybe 48psi cold, read the markings on the tire to know the max temp). Please don't consider a quick wet kit to solve your woes, as they need more tuning to do right. Do get the Wego muckled on and giving feedback, as it'd be awesome to hear what the bike likes over such a long, high rpm WOT run. Also a weather station (or just ask the guy pitted next to you what the actual DA is looking like, is what I always do myself at the strip).
Emulating mister Rollie will get you in trouble. Despite the heat, the leather pants stay ON.
That said it'll be interesting, and even if you only go 130 you'll have a good laugh and a great time. And that is what racing is all about.
Quote from: andyb on May 10, 2014, 01:31:51 PM
That said it'll be interesting, and even if you only go 130 you'll have a good laugh and a great time. And that is what racing is all about.
You know, I think that might be a little pessimistic. I've had my FJ over that speed according to the GPS and it's got low compression and burns oil. (18/38 gearing)
The biggest reason is definately to have fun - both as a spectator and participant! And also can't wait to see the creativity and engineering in the vehicles running there.
Yeah, 130 ? ....I will be sorely disappointed with that! 160 is the goal. I know nothing is gauranteed - running on the salt will be a totally new experience. And a lot will depend on the condition of the salt.
Also, since I'll be running in the "modified" class, I'm not exactly going to show up on the streetbike without doing a bit of setup. Mods that are planned at this time:
Rob the extended swingarm and cut forks off the dragbike. Use the 25 mim offset triples to increase the trail a little.
Move the fairing forward 3-4 inches and down 2 to help cut the frontal area and make room for the lower clip on handle bars.
Lengthen the rear subframe 4-6 inches to cover the rear tire and move the seating position back and down a bit to get behind the fairing better. Also extend the tail forward some to help with streamlining the back of the bike a little. The dragbike will benefit from the modified subframe after Bonneville is done.
Add lead shot in the swingarm - have 50# now - look like I should add about 100 more!
Sprocket specialists can go as small as 26 teeth for the rear sprocket -- running the old PM Chicane rim with the solid hub so it's a lot smaller than a typical sprocket hub.
Take both the Supertrapp 4-1 that's on the bike now as well as the V&H sidewinder.
And of course N2O - 3 or 4 different sized shots - and, yes, it will be tuned for it -- it's a world of difference hammering on the engine for 1/4 mile vice 3 miles!
I'm going to have to come over and see your project!
:good2:
Quote from: Firehawk068 on May 13, 2014, 09:44:08 PM
I'm going to have to come over and see your project!
:good2:
Oh crap ! I've got to clean up the garage!!! :shok:
Gone the next two weekends - but should be clear after that. Hopefully have it back on the street by then. Working on a new undertail for the street subframe now while it's all apart
Quote from: fj1289 on May 13, 2014, 09:57:35 PM
Quote from: Firehawk068 on May 13, 2014, 09:44:08 PM
I'm going to have to come over and see your project!
:good2:
Oh crap ! I've got to clean up the garage!!! :shok:
Gone the next two weekends - but should be clear after that. Hopefully have it back on the street by then. Working on a new undertail for the street subframe now while it's all apart
You run there and I will try to stop by.
George
A great and very interesting project.
just for interest sake, how hard is the salt? does it go soft after awhile,
Not as much progress as I need at this point - but have made some. Most of the time these last couple weeks have been taken up by work and by the construction of a chicken coop and chicken run....one of the "hazards" of moving away from the big city!
Almost complete with the rewire of the bike. Critical to this was fabricating a new battery and electronics box -- to make room for everything else that will be added and to finalize the location of the harness of the bike. Why is that such a big deal? Well, a few years ago I bought a bunch of FI parts from Marc Rittner and taking his advice I contacted the same person that helped him put EFI on his 200 mph supercharged nitrous injected twin cylinder Aprilia. Marc used a custom built GSXR 1000 replacement ECU (and GSXR wiring harness and switchgear). Marc suggested I use the custom Busa ECU made by the same person. I did this since I figured the engine configuration would be close enough and I would have a half decent starting point to work from -- didn't work out as planned (and not worth the $$$ for the custom ECU) and as a result I had to reinvent the wheel tuning parameter and setup wise. Biggest issue was the "plug and play" custom ECU was really setup for turbo applications - especially in dragstrip use. There is a much better way to go about this, and knowing what I know now, I would go a different way than I did. But hey that's the cost of an education at the school of hard knocks.
I've run the bike for better than a year now on EFI using a piggybacked harness made from a chopped up Busa harness. Since I'm "stuck" with the Custom Busa ECU and with as poor shape as my stock harness is in (a lot of pre-existing issues from when I bought it non running some 14+ years ago as well as numerous splices and mods over the years) I decided to replace the entire electrical system with Busa parts (harness, switchgear, etc). Only hurdles left are the charging system and the FJ instrument cluster (back lighting and tach feed). Should get both of these sorted today.
This week I plan to open up the 1314 engine and replace the rods with XJR rods I have left over from the trailer theft fiasco of 2009. (The engine they were going to go into was stolen after getting the pieces back from the machine shop). While it's apart I'll measure the copper head and base gaskets and determine how large a decompression plate to have made and replace the head gasket with an MLS gasket.
This past week I picked up the rims and tires from Woodys Wheel Works in Denver. Great people to work with. Needed to repair a bent lip on the front PM Chicane rim and straighten a "wobble" on it too. Then had Bonneville legal tires mounted - using Bridgestone BT003 Race Streets. The SCTA (Southern California Timing Association) requires "special tires for racing as designated by the manufacturer" in classes where the record is over 200 mph. The issue is most "race" tires are soft compound road race tires and will blister or chunk. The tires with the best rep have been the BT003 race tire in the T3 (hard) compound or the BT003 race street version. Woodys tire prices compare very well to the lowest internet prices I could find - highly recommended if you are in the Denver area and need tires. I forgot to tell them though I needed metal valve stems DOH! So have to go back for that...
It's starting to look less likely that this bike will spend much time on the street before being setup for Bonneville. I'd like to get a few street miles on it before taking it to the dyno and putting the Bonneville setup on it.
Pics to follow...
Quote from: ken65 on May 29, 2014, 09:30:25 PM
just for interest sake, how hard is the salt? does it go soft after awhile,
Here are two articles that seem to describe the salt conditions in a way I think I understand. Guess I won't really know until I go...
http://saltflats.com/traction.html (http://saltflats.com/traction.html)
This article is on nitrous use -- but relates very well how critical salt conditions are to success.
http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,2990.15.html (http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,2990.15.html)
thanks for the links fj1289, interesting read.. i dont think i'd be game enough to go flat out on that stuff
Quote from: ken65 on June 14, 2014, 01:43:47 AM
thanks for the links fj1289, interesting read.. i dont think i'd be game enough to go flat out on that stuff
I think it will be a bit of a non-issue. Guys I've talked to say they have a very hard time figuring out how fast they are going since there's really no visual reference other than the mile marker flags. One technique is to see how far it takes to coast to a stop.
Running on the salt also involves easy control inputs - smooth application of power and smooth control inputs at speed.
I think it's also just a matter of faith - like flying on the terrain following radar system I used to do -- or the faith good road racers have in their front tire grip (which I never had!).
Progress continues - just seems slow! Less than 8 weeks away and I'm staring to feel out of time.
Sorted several wiring issues. A missing sensor ground (MAP and TPS were wondering all over the place), a bad clutch switch, and a bad tail light socket.
Modified the FJR TB's to accept Busa throttle cables (since I swapped to Busa switchgear - and the throttle assembly too). Luckily the cable free length works - so just ordered cables from MotionPro that are 8 inches longer than the stock).
Waiting to hear back from an experienced salt racer on how much wheel slip to account for, then time to order the sprockets. Unless his answers shock me, I plan to order a 33, 29, and 26 rear wheel sprockets - and take 16, 17, and 18 tooth countershaft sprockets.
Went back to Woodys and had metal valve stems installed in the rims.
Picked up 2 used 10 pound nitrous bottles to use as mother bottles at Bonneville (no nitrous vendors on site). Had to get them hydro static tested (has to be done every 5 years). Also picked up 2 5 pound bottles to use for the runs. Just need to piece together the rest of the system!
Pulled the head of the 1314 engine. Pistons and cylinders look great! Very pleased with the exception of the valves - they are still stock. Really wish it had oversized valves -- especially on the exhaust side. Plan to run a decompression plate - shooting for around 8.7:1. Need to add about 1.39mm under the cylinder block to get there.
The cams are also a bit mild - the typical Megacycle 268-00 grind. I'll be swapping over the much more aggressive Web cams from the dragbike (along with the shim under buckets followers and retainers). May also have to cut the tops of the valve guides for clearance...
Next will be splitting the cases to swap in the XJR rods (hopefully there's a set of matching bearings in the two sets of bearing shells sitting in the box!).
Looks like you got the project under control. Really great to hear about your progress. I'm sure you already have someone to take pictures of everything. It's gonna be a carnival atmosphere. :good2:
Quote from: Joe Sull on June 19, 2014, 06:55:33 PM
Looks like you got the project under control. Really great to hear about your progress. I'm sure you already have someone to take pictures of everything. It's gonna be a carnival atmosphere. :good2:
I can't wait! Carnival of horsepower and speed!
Disassembled the 1314 head a couple nights ago.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_06_14_7_26_13.jpeg)
Bit of a setback -- looks like #4 ate a screw sometime in he past. :dash1:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_06_14_7_37_12.jpeg)
Missed it when I pulled the head. If I had simply put the engine in the frame and rode it on the street, it would probably never be an issue. But with he plan to run a healthy load of nitrous, any sharp spots in the combustion are likely to cause detonation -- and create a big lump of scrap metal!
The head has a very nice port job so I'd really like to save it.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_06_14_7_38_39.jpeg)
Randy says they routinely cut the heads all the way to the valve seats! Looks to me like that will be enough to clean it up. UPS has the head on the way to Randy now...fingers crossed.
Split the engine cases last night.
Had to fab a tool to hold the clutch basket -- welded some flat plate to an old warped clutch steel.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_19_06_14_6_41_26.jpeg)
Fairly straight forward from there - just had one fastener strip - one of the torx holding the bearing cover plate (behind the clutch basket) in place. Had to break out the reverse twist drill bits. Started small in the center of the recess. Then stepped up a size. No joy. Didn't want to go too deep for fear of buggering up the case threads. Decided to go up another size to drill the head off and then deal with the remaining shank later. Just as the bit began to break thru out comes the fastener! I sure hope the person that invented left twist drill bits made a fortune - they deserve it!
Lucky two times! The rods are all #4s and the rod journals on the crank are all #2s -- I have a full set of black bearings on hand already. :yahoo:
Just had a look at the landracing.com site - 30 days! Holy crap there's a lot left to do! And definitely getting excited!
Made some good progress over the 4th of July weekend, but now gone for a week on business. Had company over for the 4th - my wife's great aunt and uncle - the ones who came up with the Bonneville trip idea in the first place. So lots of garage time (which SWMBO considered to be "visiting" and "quality time" ... not her normal thoughts towards the hours spent in the garage so far...)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_09_07_14_10_45_01.jpeg)
Had an FJ steering stem pressed out of an old triple clamp and installed it in the 2003 R1 triple clamp with new bearings. Really wish I still had access to a good press. Mounted the lower triple upside down like on the drag bike. That way allows you to raise the forks farther in the triples before getting to the tapered portion of the fork leg. The 02/03 R1 triples only have 25mm of offset (compared to 35mm for the earlier R1 triples and for the FJ). This increases trail (good for the salt) and decreases the wheelbase slightly. I do have a wheelbase limit - in order to stay in the "modified" class and not have to run in the "purpose built" class the wheelbase can be no longer than 10% greater than the stock specifications. The GYSM shows the wheelbase for an 89 to be 58.7". Add 10% and you get 64.57" max wheelbase. Right now it's nearly 66.5, but should decrease a little with some more lowering. Swapped the cut forks from the drag bike, but haven't set the front ride height yet - probably will end up an inch or so lower than it is now.
We got the nitrous bottle mount completed! And with that done we were able to mount the swingarm. Deleted the foot peg mount plates like on the drag bike - and had to "borrow" the shortened swingarm pivot bolt also. Turns out uncle Jeff is somewhat of an artist with a jigsaw and a 1/4" thick plate of aluminum. Transferred the cardboard template to the aluminum plate with a sharpie and just let him rip - half a day later and there are a couple nice looking pieces of aluminum with straight cut edges and amazing circles cut out of them - all with a jigsaw and a couple metal cutting blades.
While the bottle mount was being cut, I moved on the the coils mounts. Have been using GSXR/Busa COPs (coil on plugs) with the EFI so far. Nice clean install, but wanted a more robust coil setup with the planned nitrous use. Seems the GM LS engine series truck coils are the hot ticket. After scavenging the junk yards and eBay, I couldn't find any reasonably priced. Did find a full set of LS1 coils and harness for an OK price. Did a little research, and although they are not the best GM has to offer, they are no slouches either. In order to keep the coils away from the electronics and to free up space for other things, decided to mount the coils just forward of and above the valve cover - just an inch or two forward of the stock coil mount location. Also happens that is about the perfect location to be able to use standard length GM plug wires too. Pics to follow on this one. Still have to complete the wiring of the new coils.
Started work on the fairing. Plan is to make some minor improvements while keeping the FJ "look". Started the process of removing and glassing over the side scoops and headlight. Began by making a "sheet" of a single layer of fiberglass cloth in a gigantic sheet cake pan. Once the resin setup, we marked and cut panels to cover the backside of the openings for the scoops and headlight. Then fiberglassed them into place from the backside. Next step will be cutting fiberglass mat to use to fill the openings and then finish it all off with fiber reinforced body filler. Will also be doing the turn signal cut outs and the upper fairing mount/mirror mount holes. Second part of the streamlining plan is to lower the fairing and move it forward some - trying to cut down on the frontal area (same reason for lowering the bike).
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_09_07_14_1_43_37.jpeg)
Looks like I may have to "scallop" (fancy word for beat with a ball peen hammer and smooth out with body putty) the tank for some more handle bar clearance. Even though the 25mm offset clamps limit the steering angle, I still can't angle the clip ons far enough back to get them completely behind the fairing without hitting the tank.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_09_07_14_1_46_18.jpeg)
Looks like I can trim the corners of the windscreen a bit. Would be cool to see how a double bubble would work....hmmm
Then, time to turn attention to the seat and tail section. I've already removed the grab handles and riveted aluminum angle in place to provide the mounting point. Still need to finish cleaning up the subframe - relocate the mounts for the rear of the tail so they are up "in" the tail and then make a smooth fiberglass under tail.
And, finally the engine. So, now the drag bike head should also be with Randy. Seems the head is the most troublesome part of the whole build -- so I'm glad I've got Randy on it instead of having to fumble around with it on my own! The drag bike cams (and shim under bucket setup) sounded like the easiest way to go. BUT, the reduced base circle camshaft is causing excessive clearance. The kicker is the valves in the drag bike head are stock length and the shim under bucket conversion doesn't "make up" for the decreased base circle on the cam....and the valves don't look to be "sunk" that far into the drag bike head. WTF?! Well, Randy should have the drag bike head in his hands today -- can't wait to see what he figures out. Oh yeah - just using the drag bike head isn't an easy answer since it has aluminum spigots welded to where the intake manifolds normally bolt up - it was setup for individual Lectron carbs... Trying to find a happy solution that lets me run hard at Bonneville, but doesn't require a head to be completely redone when it comes time to put it back on the street later. But then again, Bonneville is the alligator closest (and getting closer fast!) to the boat now...figure the rest out later if we have to!
Well, heard back from Randy. Plan is to go forward with the drag bike head -- mill the spigots off, redrill and tap the manifold bolt holes, and open up the combustion chambers to unshroud the valves. The head has been milled nearly 50 thousandths to up compression ratio, so that will have to be made up in the base gasket stack, plus the added thickness needed to lower the stock compression ratio.
Only downside will be returning the head to service on the dragbike -- but that should be fairly easily solved. Otherwise, looks like we might be able to get the engine back into this thing with about two weeks to go :shok:
Here's hoping this thing will be a rocket! :drinks:
Quote from: fj1289 on May 13, 2014, 09:35:16 PM
Yeah, 130 ? ....I will be sorely disappointed with that! 160 is the goal. I know nothing is gauranteed - running on the salt will be a totally new experience. And a lot will depend on the condition of the salt.
After reading the article about traction I feel a little bit better about those numbers. My initial thought was that the bike does 156 top gear redline stock. My dad said he regularly pushed his '84 passed this; putting him around 160, almost maxing out the speedo. I finally learned the truth about those runs down country roads just last year.
Have you calculated theoretical top speed with the gearing setups you have? I can only imagine that the horsepower the bike is going to put out, will allow you to run the 26T rear sprocket to the limit, or at least very close. Then, like you said, conditions will all be negative factors to that speed.
After watching "The World's Fastest Indian" I've really been wanting to pilot a motorcycle over 200mph. Good luck and I look forward to hearing more.
Are you using web cams in that engine? Are the retainers for the 13mm shims or the 7.5mm?
Quote from: JMR on July 10, 2014, 02:34:47 PM
Are you using web cams in that engine? Are the retainers for the 13mm shims or the 7.5mm?
Yes - web cams. I THINK 7.5mm shims - most were in the 280 - 290 range.
Quote from: GhostMerc on July 10, 2014, 08:54:17 AM
Have you calculated theoretical top speed with the gearing setups you have? I can only imagine that the horsepower the bike is going to put out, will allow you to run the 26T rear sprocket to the limit, or at least very close. Then, like you said, conditions will all be negative factors to that speed.
I set up a table last night with some target speeds, gearing, and RPMs assuming 10, 15, and 20% tire slip. I'll take a pic and post it later (forgot to pull the notebook out of my checked baggage). Just ordered the rear sprockets - 33, 29, and 27 tooth versions. Plan to take 18, 17, and 16 countershaft sprockets. Here's a smaller chart showing the range of final drives available and how much overlap there is (26 tooth shown for comparison).
33/16. 2.063
33/17. 1.941
33/18. 1.833
29/16. 1.813
29/17. 1.706
29/18. 1.611
27/16. 1.688
27/17. 1.588
27/18. 1.500
26/16. 1.625
26/17. 1.529
26/18. 1.444
With the 18/33 setup I'll still only be in 4th gear for the rookie run (have to keep it under 150mph)
Looking at the numbers, assuming 20% wheel slip, 18/27 should be (theoretically!) capable of 225 mph (class record is 221.241) so I figured no need for the 26 tooth sprocket. Realistically I don't really expect to even use the 27 - pretty sure I'll hit the aero wall before then. But then again, if the gods of speed are smiling, the salt is good, the bike is singing, and the winds are behind us, it sure would suck to speed limited just because you didn't buy one more sprocket....
Quote from: fj1289 on July 10, 2014, 08:49:56 PM
Quote from: JMR on July 10, 2014, 02:34:47 PM
Are you using web cams in that engine? Are the retainers for the 13mm shims or the 7.5mm?
Yes - web cams. I THINK 7.5mm shims - most were in the 280 - 290 range.
I knew they were Webs...were you warned about the 1.00 base circle? They do that often BUT don't list it unless it is a large cam. I have gotten in a jam with that shit. :negative: The Suzuki 7.5 work( kinda off in that range) but ideally it would be nice to add +.010 or so to stem length IF THEY TOLD WHAT WAS GOING ON!.
I have some Web hardweld rocker arms here and a cam (for a customer)....both have problems. The arms have rust (in the shaft bores and on the exterior) and the hardweld cam has pinholes from gassing out during welding (I'd guess). At least Megacycle packs the arms/cams in a sticky oil that never allows rust. 520.00 for 8 rocker arms and the cost of a hardweld and I do not want to see rust and pinholes.
Quote from: JMR on July 10, 2014, 09:52:55 PM
Quote from: fj1289 on July 10, 2014, 08:49:56 PM
Quote from: JMR on July 10, 2014, 02:34:47 PM
Are you using web cams in that engine? Are the retainers for the 13mm shims or the 7.5mm?
Yes - web cams. I THINK 7.5mm shims - most were in the 280 - 290 range.
I knew they were Webs...were you warned about the 1.00 base circle? They do that often BUT don't list it unless it is a large cam. I have gotten in a jam with that shit. :negative: The Suzuki 7.5 work( kinda off in that range) but ideally it would be nice to add +.010 or so to stem length IF THEY TOLD WHAT WAS GOING ON!.
I have some Web hardweld rocker arms here and a cam (for a customer)....both have problems. The arms have rust (in the shaft bores and on the exterior) and the hardweld cam has pinholes from gassing out during welding (I'd guess). At least Megacycle packs the arms/cams in a sticky oil that never allows rust. 520.00 for 8 rocker arms and the cost of a hardweld and I do not want to see rust and pinholes.
Yep, the reduced base circle is what bit us. The choices that left us with was to either make the adjustments to the street head to run the reduced circle cams - and then not be able to return it back to street duty without another set of valves or another set of cams and retainers and buckets. Or, mill off the spigots (and reopen the bottom manifold bolt holes that were welded over) on the dragbike head and not be able to return it to duty on the dragbike without coming up with some kind of manifolds.
You'd think they'd have a set of retainers (or keepers or something) that would correct for the reduced base circle, even if you'd have to then shim the springs up to make up for that distance (else something in the valve train would have to get a lot heavier than needed).
The dragbike head was setup by Fast by Gast out of New York. Good work, but could have been a bit better in some respects. I think he was going for max compression ratio and didnt unshroud the valves at all. Not sure how much it may hurt the compression later on the dragbike, but I've got to think the added flow has to be a good thing for almost any use. Evidently they sunk the valves to make up the difference on the reduced base circle.
Live and learn...
Yeah....I don't think a different retainer would help as the shim sits on the valve stem and that controls the clearence. Believe me.....I know exactly how you feel. :mad: I had to have custom valves made that were .015 longer with the keeper moved up the same amount to work with the old 13mm retainers. Luckily shimming a spring is easy. It is faster, easier and cheaper to grind the hell out of the base circle than to lay more weld on the lobes. Sinking the valves is really a last resort but it is easier and cheaper than custom valves (that's why people do it). If you know somebody with a Serdi you can blow a nice deshrouding cut around the intake seats/chamber and work from there. It helps keep the chamber volume consistent and is easy to do. It also won't introduce a lot of volume to the chamber which is a good thing considering the application.
I'll admit I was a bit surprised seeing your pic of the chamber as the intake ports had been worked and the FJ chamber can certainly use some extra attention.
Good luck with your project.
Does
Spent most of my time this week on fiberglass work -- modding the fairing, modding tail piece/ seat cowl, and fabbing a smooth undertail.
I've received most of the parts for the nitrous system -- now just need a few fittings to finish it off.
Ordered the rest of the parts needed -- sprockets, steering damper, short levers, double bubble windscreen.
Randy has the head back from the machine shop. Shim kit ordered and should be there in time to finish the head early next week. Hats off to Randy for getting this one handled.
I've learned how to make large fiberglass sheets from one or two layers of fiberglass cloth in large sheet cake pans. Also did one in fiberglass mat, but is a lot harder to work with (it will be used for the seat).
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_07_14_10_06_22.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_07_14_10_49_02.jpeg)
Have used these for panels to close off the fairing scoop and headlight openings. Also for the seat cowl and undertail. For these, will also be using some fiberglass "angle iron" made by laying up two layers of cloth between two pieces of angle. Using aluminum angle on the "outside" mold creates a sharper corner for the angle.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_07_14_10_50_40.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_07_14_10_51_47.jpeg)
Keeping the lay ups to 2 layers lets me cut the sheets with a pair of heavy duty scissors, be flexible enough to make gentle bends, but still hold its shape fairly well while working with it.
Pics of the seat cowl early in the process. The aluminum angle fastened to the cowl is used to replace the bolt holes that are part of the grab handles.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_07_14_10_56_47.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_07_14_10_54_27_1.jpeg)
Starting on the undertail. Doing this to clean up the airflow in this area. Rules for the class don't allow for rear huggers otherwise I definitely would run one. The rear fender cannot cover any of the tire when viewed from the side.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_07_14_11_00_39.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_18_07_14_11_03_15.jpeg)
Lots left to complete - but at least most of the "ideas" are starting to come to life now (even if most are still in the "rough" stage right now).
Plan now is to roll out the afternoon of the 7th and stop an hour or so away from Bonneville. Then drive into Bonneville early on the 8th, get signed in, setup in the pits, and hopefully get thru tech. Then the 9th begins with the drivers meeting, rookie orientation, and hopefully the rookie run!
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_22_07_14_11_21_17.jpeg)
First mock up with the body panels roughed in. Found a few things to tweak. First moved the clip ons from below the triple clamp to above to get the control levers behind the hand cuffs. Also "scalloped" the tank for more hand room so we can rotate the clip ons more inward to get behind the fairing a bit better.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_23_07_14_2_26_35.jpeg)
Tools used - socket worked very well to make a nice smooth dent
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_23_07_14_2_25_02.jpeg)
Also worked on suspension settings and exhaust fitting. May need a firmer rear spring - maxed out the adjustable link at full hard end of the adjustment range. Surprisingly the dragbike spider pipe worked the best with the most ground clearance and clearance to the front tire.
BEST OF LUCK TO YOU! Thats quite the undertaking my friend, very nice job on your FJ. Onboard filming I hope, dont forget your nitro pills Burt :lol Godspeed! Charley.
Thanks Charley
Picked up the pills from a local speed shop during the last business trip :pardon: Got to keep making progress somehow when I have to be gone!
Swapped in the XJR rods late Thurs night before having to travel on business Friday. Thank goodness they're letting us go home today -- the head and rest of the parts showed up yesterday afternoon. With a little luck (that I make it home this afternoon) and a few hours work, she may be making noise again this weekend! If not, I've got a CRAZY schedule for work for the next 10 days or so.
Bodywork has been painted - need to finish up the fairing mounting brackets. The bodywork is about 90% of where I'd like it to be -- so close enough for now!
Biggest issues now are finishing the engine and hoping the new wiring is correct!
This hasn't been much of a build thread - not like intended anyway. This "little" project has taken much more time and effort than expected...but we are now loaded up and on the road to Bonneville!
The salt flats experienced a flash flood a couple days ago. Speedweek has been postponed two days. No one is allowed on the salt until Sunday and racing is set to begin on Monday now.
Have a few things to finish tomorrow - mainly tech items like safety wiring and installing fire sleeve. Plus a hundred little detail items that get pushed to the side while getting the big items done
Enjoy yourself there Chris, fly the FJ flag for all of us.
Cheers
Harvy
Quote from: Harvy on August 08, 2014, 10:11:43 PM
Enjoy yourself there Chris, fly the FJ flag for all of us.
Cheers
Harvy
Rolled into Wendover at 3:00 this morning - very cool stuff in the parking lot!
But, it'll have to wait....
"The SCTA Board is currently on the salt flats and the BSF is under water and will not dry in time for Speed Week to be held. Therefore, the event is canceled. The Board is discussing the possibility of extending World Finals and making it a delayed Speed Week. The entire SCTA thanks you for your patience and understanding. We look forward to seeing you at our next event."
REST OF THIS POST IS SENSORED :ireful:
Sorry about the canceling. Bummer. :mad: I have been on the phone with Kurt and was planning on heading down On Sunday or Monday. I figured it would be Monday or Tuesday before anyone got to run much. Kurt said there was 6 inch's of water at one time on the flats. No place for the water to go except evaporate or drain.
George
Would you be interested in the Bonneville Motorcycle Speed Trials? That starts 8/23 and ends 8/28. Should be dry by then.
Quote from: JMR on August 10, 2014, 07:55:36 AM
Would you be interested in the Bonneville Motorcycle Speed Trials? That starts 8/23 and ends 8/28. Should be dry by then.
Aw shit!!!!! sorry bout your cancellation...but this is at least a run on the salt,right? :drinks: Charley.
Quote from: JMR on August 10, 2014, 07:55:36 AM
Would you be interested in the Bonneville Motorcycle Speed Trials? That starts 8/23 and ends 8/28. Should be dry by then.
In Northern Utah, we have been getting rain, almost every day for the last two weeks. Monsoon moisture coming up from the south. Storms are predicted for the next week on and off. These storms are sever. We have mud and water wash through the town of Helper. A hillside let go and demolished one persons home and damaged other structures, threatening still more houses in North Salt Lake City. Sorry to hear that Speed Week was canceled. Where is it held is the driest place in the state, less than four inches of perception annually.
Kurt
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on August 10, 2014, 01:34:15 PM
Quote from: JMR on August 10, 2014, 07:55:36 AM
Would you be interested in the Bonneville Motorcycle Speed Trials? That starts 8/23 and ends 8/28. Should be dry by then.
In Northern Utah, we have been getting rain, almost every day for the last two weeks. Monsoon moisture coming up from the south. Storms are predicted for the next week on and off. These storms are sever. We have mud and water wash through the town of Helper. A hillside let go and demolished one persons home and damaged other structures, threatening still more houses in North Salt Lake City. Sorry to hear that Speed Week was canceled. Where is it held is the driest place in the state, less than four inches of perception annually.
Kurt
Wow. I know a SOHC fella going to the later date but it appears that might not happen. 2 year long project that has a lot of work into it.
Quote from: yamaha fj rider on August 10, 2014, 01:34:15 PM
...less than four inches of perception annually.
There's a lot of that goin' around. And not just in Utah.
rossi
Yeah - hugely bummed. Drove home last night. Still need to unload the trailer and get the garage organized again after this extended thrash session.
I pushed and bent things bad enough at home and work to make this happen that there's no way I can make the motorcycle meet in 10 days. I'm hoping they extend World Finals -- may be able to make a long weekend to hit it then (first weekend in Oct maybe).
Got to see a lot of neat cars (most of the motorcycles stayed hidden in trailers or the back of mini vans). Got some good pics - will start uploading and posting those.
This whole experience getting this project ready has me rethinking how to do the streetbike/dragbike/land speed thing...may be time to retool the dragbike to be the dual purpose machine and just let the streetbike be the streetbike. It'll require a bit of a rethink on the dragbike setup - mostly engine displacement and electronics... For now I'll do minimal mods to this bike to get it back to some limited street duty and some dragstrip time before the season ends.
Someone said the parking lots of the hotels looked more like the pits. I didn't get near as many pics as I thought - too busy gawking I guess!
The workmanship on this streamliner was perfect - can't imagine the time spent on it. Their goal was to be the first naturally aspirated small block chevy to go 400 mph!
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_12_08_14_7_43_24_2.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_12_08_14_10_20_39_0.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_12_08_14_10_20_46_2.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_12_08_14_10_20_42_1.jpeg)
The Nugget holds a car show at the beginning of the week and seems to be the hangout for many cars.
This was my favorite of the show cars - definitely NOT for the purists! Period correct T-Bird with a Hemi!
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_12_08_14_7_43_28_3.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_12_08_14_7_43_31_4.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_12_08_14_7_43_21_1.jpeg)
This was a cool setup. This rat rod is his tow truck! And the bike is a vintage Triumph that runs in the Production class -- must "appear" totally stock mechanically
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_12_08_14_7_43_33_5.jpeg)
And he's been here a few times
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_12_08_14_10_44_26.jpeg)
Well, looks like it will 2015 to run at Bonneville. May be a blessing in disguise - if you're going to be even a little serious about running there, a full year is probably a good timeframe to prep and get ready. I love the quote from this trailer "it's five days of racing, but it's 360 days to get ready for those five days". https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MMIiBYhuk08 (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MMIiBYhuk08)
The Bonneville build really didn't get started until late April when I "popped" the street motor. Then as I started digging into the project I realized how much more there was to do than I'd imagined. I'd say April - mid June work was at a fairly steady pace, but still allowed for life to continue (like building a large chicken coop and run, painting bedrooms, etc). Mid June - mid July were mostly in "panic mode" trying to get things done in time. Mid July to mid August were frantic "work like a scared rat mode". If panic mode can use up a lot of time and patience (of others)...imagine what the other mode does!
So, the post speed Week rain out plan was to put the streetbike back on the road with a minimum of time and money. Also wanted to be able to play at the track too if the opportunity presented itself. It looks like I'm going full-loop back to a bike set up for street and strip. The compromises involved with running a street bike on the strip last time are what lead up to the dragbike project. This time I will be accepting a whole 'nother set of compromises. The dragbike isn't going away, it just may be sidelined for a year while I focus on some other things.
I really like the approach this guy has to these challenges.
http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,6167.0.html (http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,6167.0.html)
To be honest I thought the Wobbly Walrus was a bit constrained and too conservative with his approach at first...but the further through the thread I've read, the more I appreciate his approach (as well as the records he's notched up too).
I'm lucky in that I've slowly accumulated most of what I'll need for this. It's really just a matter of bringing all the pieces together as well as I can and slowly working the combination to the best it can be.
You've got a solid plan..........................Rushing things to meet a deadline will lead to mistakes and compromises...............
Better to take your time, and be methodical and safe with your build.............
I still need to ride down and pay you a visit.................. :hi:
Quote from: Firehawk068 on September 19, 2014, 04:20:49 PM
I still need to ride down and pay you a visit.................. :hi:
Alan - sounds good
Lee Cankenord (sp?) got in touch with me thru email a bit ago. I think we should try to do a Denver area/Colorado (or anyone else looking for a destination) FJ get together one afternoon while the weather is good.
If you're interested in joining me for "Old Bike Night" in Denver on October 2nd.................Sometimes Lee C. makes an appearance..........
I can get in touch with him, and see if he is going to show...................He is a wealth of stories and knowledge :drinks:
Quote from: Firehawk068 on September 19, 2014, 09:43:38 PM
If you're interested in joining me for "Old Bike Night" in Denver on October 2nd.................Sometimes Lee C. makes an appearance..........
I can get in touch with him, and see if he is going to show...................He is a wealth of stories and knowledge :drinks:
Sounds like a plan - I'm in as long as I'm in town!
What are the details? Place and time?
"Plan A" for this phase is to put the bike back on the street with the minimum time and money possible. As with so many things, this is sometimes easier said (and thought!) than done....
First thoughts are what do I need to be street legal? Lights, muffler and mirrors seem to be the most lacking (and critical) items.
Lights - that will mean repairing the fairing from the 90 parts bike enough to be functional. I reuse a riveted metal repair for the right aft frame mounting point from the 89 fairing (the 89 fairing now has headlight and cooling scoop holes filled in for Bonneville). I add a similar repair for the other side. Instead of galvanized steel sheet, this one is cut from an old license plate from the suburban. A couple other breaks are repaired with a little soldering iron welding and plastic repair epoxy (thanks to whoever discussed this recently - Fred maybe?). The fairing is now functional if not pretty. I decide to keep the fairing moved forward and down - less work now and gives clearance for the clip on bars I plan to reuse. More I can reuse the less work to do.
The other half of the lights is the tail light. This one turns into the tail wagging the dog a bit. I consider keeping the race tail and adding LED light strips. That will be a few $$, time, and will be somewhat experimental -- will I have to change out the flasher? Will it work with the modified Busa harness? Will I have to add resistors? And I need to figure out a "street" seat to use with it. Screw it - use the rear subframe and tail piece from the 90. I know I'll have to do some minor mods to mount the battery/ECU box and the side covers (I smoothed the left side cover to get rid of the grab handle opening). But these mods are known and are fairly minor. That also means I can chop up the work if needed - whenever I can steal 5 or 10 minutes in the garage - and easily continue where I left off (not so easily done with tasks that require figuring in out as you go - that leads to a lot of wasted time and mistakes - DAMHIK!). In reality the work gets chopped up a lot.
Now I remember the headlight issue. When I made the swap over to the Busa harness the headlight didn't work. Not an issue for Bonneville, but is one now! The hi and lo beam fuses have power to them. The flash-to-pass switch works. Wonder if the Busa is setup so the headlight only turns on after it is started? Try it now - no such luck.
Also have to sort the rear lights. The harness was modified to eliminate the rear turn signals. They used a trailer light adapter. Brakes and turn signal lights work as intended. Only one running light works. While testing all the different possibilities, I turn on the hazard switch. The head light comes on! Cool - I screwed up the headlight wiring in a good way! The tail light wiring is sorted after a few tries and a bit of internet searching. No part number or label or brand or any marks are on the trailer light converter and can't find any that are similar. I read of enough different ways to do this mod and combine a couple if them to get it all to work.
This afternoon long task takes a week and a half "stolen" minutes to complete while a bunch of stuff on the honey-do list take priority. My biggest blocks of time come while stain or polyurethane are drying.
You sound like a very busy man! Kinda sounds like how my summer went.....................
"Old Bike Night" is the first Thursday of every month...............The next one happens to be on October 2nd...........
Location:
(http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab154/firehawk068/Capture_zpsa2a00b52.jpg) (http://s859.photobucket.com/user/firehawk068/media/Capture_zpsa2a00b52.jpg.html)
Depending on traffic, I usually show up around 5-ish..................but have shown up as early as 4, and as late as 6.................It usually goes till around 8-9pm........
It's not really an organized affair. People and bikes just kinda show up, and filter in and out throughout the evening.........
I will probably be back on the 8-4:30 shift at the County Shop by then, so I will most likely leave right from there to head up there...........
If you are interested in going with, we can meet somewhere and ride up together.........................That is, depending on your schedule, and whether or not you have a ride-able bike. :drinks:
Sounds good - probably leave from work. Rally in your parking lot?
The bike is rideable on the street now --- about a week behind on the posts.
Quote from: fj1289 on September 20, 2014, 04:42:43 PM
Sounds good - probably leave from work. Rally in your parking lot?
The bike is rideable on the street now --- about a week behind on the posts.
Sounds like a solid plan to me.................Can you meet me in my parking lot around 4:30ish?
I'll get in touch with Lee C.
Quote from: Firehawk068 on September 22, 2014, 01:40:50 PM
Quote from: fj1289 on September 20, 2014, 04:42:43 PM
Sounds good - probably leave from work. Rally in your parking lot?
The bike is rideable on the street now --- about a week behind on the posts.
Sounds like a solid plan to me.................Can you meet me in my parking lot around 4:30ish?
I'll get in touch with Lee C.
Sounds good. Anyone else in?
A couple pics of the fairing repair. This is the "new" repair -- it's the same as the one one the right side that lasted for 13+ years on the other fairing and I simply transplanted to this one.
Metal strap used to repair broken mount area. On this one just the scoop fastener point is broken off. On the original repair on the other fairing, part of the boss for the frame mount was missing also.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_22_09_14_9_42_28.jpeg)
Used 3/16" aluminum rivets vice smaller 1/8". Also fit a small washer underneath the u-nut to ensure a snug fit
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/171_22_09_14_9_44_06.jpeg)
Quote from: fj1289 on September 22, 2014, 10:31:29 PM
Quote from: Firehawk068 on September 22, 2014, 01:40:50 PM
Quote from: fj1289 on September 20, 2014, 04:42:43 PM
Sounds good - probably leave from work. Rally in your parking lot?
The bike is rideable on the street now --- about a week behind on the posts.
Sounds like a solid plan to me.................Can you meet me in my parking lot around 4:30ish?
I'll get in touch with Lee C.
Sounds good. Anyone else in?
Todd Q, where you at?
:mad:
Alan - I'm out now. Just found out we have to go to wonderful lovely Clovis NM on Thursday afternoon...enjoy a pint for me!
No Worries, we'll meet up some other time.......................Have a safe trip. :drinks: