I got the correct plugs for the bike DP8EA-9 's. I fixed the petcock so it was a lot easier to take the tank off
without having to plug the petcock real quick.
The plugs I'm replacing have an R in the sequence, DPR8EA-9. I guess that means resistor.
When I got the bike the plugs were white. Probably been that way from the time the PO put the F1 cans on.
They've been thru spark plug hell. Running white then sitting for months then paint stripper and pressure washing.
I put the uni-pod's on and that should have make it worse. I checked the plugs the other day and they had changed color
a little but I've only drove it 40 miles. I worked some 10 - 30 motor oil in to the air filters and I think thats what
toasted the plugs. It got a charge of the oil in the jugs. I could hear them not firing and skipping.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05186-1.jpg)
They started to develope a light brown hue on 2 of them the others seem to have the white chip off.
With the #40 mixture jets and the needle jets raised, I think it's going the right way.
Showing a little brown is a start.
When I bought my FJ last May it hadn't been running in 4 years. Randy cleaned the carbs and I put new Champion plugs in.
Took most of the summer to get the gunk out of the tank and the pilots to stay open. Got it running pretty good.
This spring I put NGKs in it and now it runs even better.
I'm thinking the Japanese plugs work better in the FJ than the Champions did because they speak the same language.
NGK's burn rice better? :crazy:
All FJ plugs are white. Don't be alarmed. It's a function of the emissions system.
To get a true reading on the plugs....disconnect the vacuum advance. Plug the manifold port.
When you roll off the throttle, the throttle plates close, the vacuum increases causing the ignition to advance ~10* to flash off any unburned fuel....this flash off turns your plugs white.
Use only foam filter oil on your UniPods.
Hope this helps.
Thats extremely cool Pat. I DID NOT know that. Your like an FJ physicist or something. I bet you got a linear accelerator in you garage. (popcorn)
Nope, I learned this from Randy.....and Travis....and BobW....
Quote from: Bminder on April 15, 2014, 05:05:11 PM
I'm thinking the Japanese plugs work better in the FJ than the Champions did because they speak the same language.
I'm thinking Japanese plugs work better than Champions in about everything because Champions are junk. :pardon:
Quote from: not a lib on April 15, 2014, 07:47:09 PM
Quote from: Bminder on April 15, 2014, 05:05:11 PM
I'm thinking the Japanese plugs work better in the FJ than the Champions did because they speak the same language.
I'm thinking Japanese plugs work better than Champions in about everything because Champions are junk. :pardon:
+1
George
Quote from: movenon on April 15, 2014, 08:14:59 PM
Quote from: not a lib on April 15, 2014, 07:47:09 PM
Quote from: Bminder on April 15, 2014, 05:05:11 PM
I'm thinking the Japanese plugs work better in the FJ than the Champions did because they speak the same language.
I'm thinking Japanese plugs work better than Champions in about everything because Champions are junk. :pardon:
+1
George
was told by a very wise mechinic - NGK if its Japanese, Autolite if its American. Makes sense to me, whether its true or not!
I've had similar experiences with my Honda cars. They didn't like ND or even run on Bosch plugs. They came with NGK, and only ran with NGK. Lesson learned!
Well, in my FJ Denso works better than NGK and so it was in our two Yamaha DT's too :yes:.
I had a Toyota pickup for a daily driver and mud bogger that wound out to 7700 RPMs with NGK plugs and would barely run with Champions. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it for myself.
Joe
Quote from: MatYl on April 16, 2014, 03:14:05 PM
Well, in my FJ Denso works better than NGK and so it was in our two Yamaha DT's too :yes:.
In my owners manual says NGK DP8EA-9
or Nippondenso X24EP-U9 is
standard
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 15, 2014, 06:31:22 PM
All FJ plugs are white. Don't be alarmed. It's a function of the emissions system.
To get a true reading on the plugs....disconnect the vacuum advance. Plug the manifold port.
When you roll off the throttle, the throttle plates close, the vacuum increases causing the ignition to advance ~10* to flash off any unburned fuel....this flash off turns your plugs white.
Use only foam filter oil on your UniPods.
Hope this helps.
So! Is it better to do my carb sync and the blip test for the mixture screws with the TCI vacuum line disconnected and the vacuum port blocked?
The carb sync uses the same vacuum port as the advance, so by default the vacuum advance is disconnected.
Blip test, idle mixture screws, leaving it connected makes no difference.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 18, 2014, 11:25:29 AM
The carb sync uses the same vacuum port as the advance, so by default the vacuum advance is disconnected.
Blip test, idle mixture screws, leaving it connected makes no difference.
I got a chance to go through the sync and mixture screw adjustment today. I think it takes some time to get good at it. I managed and felt more confident at the end.
I started off by rigging the fuel bladder. Your idea of using a small engine fuel tank was right inline with what I have at hand.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC05188.jpg)
I drilled and wood screwed the tank on the dowel and slipped the little hose inside the big hose. It sealed up good. never seen a drop of fuel escape.
Looks like a potential streetfighter mod. :gamer:
I set the mixture screws at 2 turns and took off the TCI hose.
Balanced 1 to 2 and then 3 to 4 and then 3 to 2. I did some blips and fiddled around with the mix screws but it still sounded wrong.
I plugged the TCI back into the #1 port and set up my mano on 2 and 3. It ran instantly better without turning a screw.
I adj. 2 to 3 then switched and did 1 to 3 and then 3 to 4. It sounded 10 times better then.
I did the blip and it was dropping below so I turned out a whole turn to 3 and the blip hung up. I got it at 2 1/2 and the blip is good.
I need more practice but I'll get it. Thanks for all the help. Didn't drive it today, I got a back pain and I'm kinda resting it.
I will let you all know.
Sounds like you are using a home built 2 channel manometer...if so don't leave those unused vacuum ports open while your balancing the other two..... and while performing the blip test.
#1 port should go to your petcock and #2 should go to your advance.
Ya! No, I wouldn't leave any open ports. I made a couple of extra plugs, REmoving those factory plugs as little as possible.
No harm in moving the TCI over to #1 though. I wanted to do the sync the same way I did it the first time 1-2 3-4 then 2-3 but I'd have to re-route the TCI hose to make it to 3.
The engine ran different with the TCI plugged in so I re-sync'd them. It must have something to do with timing, I guess.