Does any one know where I can find a set of Blue dot calipers for a 93 FJABS? I tried looking around and no luck. Thanks.
Check these out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-Yamaha-YZF-R6-06-09-R6S-Front-Brake-Calipers-Pads-OEM-Free-S-H-Z401-/301137625773 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-Yamaha-YZF-R6-06-09-R6S-Front-Brake-Calipers-Pads-OEM-Free-S-H-Z401-/301137625773)
ebay is your friend... can usually find them loaded (with pads already) pretty cheap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOTH-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPERS-YAMAHA-R1-01-YZF-1000-FAST-FREE-SHIPPING-/251494932953?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8e4421d9&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOTH-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPERS-YAMAHA-R1-01-YZF-1000-FAST-FREE-SHIPPING-/251494932953?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8e4421d9&vxp=mtr)
Sorry for Hijacking the thread, but....
I have been thinking about the blue dots as well but not sure if they will fit my 86 Fj
will I be able to use them as well on my original lower forks?
Nope, without adapters you 89 or later lowers. Best to covert the later 17 inch wheel with the forks.
Jeff
Ok so what year blue dots am I looking for that will fit on a 93 Fj? I have the ABS but will be bypassing. Do I need new rotors? Can I still use my same rim? So this Mod is it done on the front brakes? Must leave the rear alone? I am so confused. I have read so many threads on blue dots tvat now I'm just lost.
Quote from: Tex on April 15, 2014, 05:09:39 PM
Ok so what year blue dots am I looking for that will fit on a 93 Fj? I have the ABS but will be bypassing. Do I need new rotors? Can I still use my same rim? So this Mod is it done on the front brakes? Must leave the rear alone? I am so confused. I have read so many threads on blue dots tvat now I'm just lost.
Scott (Tex),
You are all good. Blue Dots are plug and play for the 93'. Your rotors and rim should be ok.
Jeff's comment was aimed at IceFJ.
Fred
Ok so when ordering braided brake line. Where would you guys get it from and how do I order. Should I order line for a 1992 Fj nonABS? Seeing I'm getting rid of my ABS on the 93? Also do you guys upgrade the rear caliper? Or leave it stock?
Leave the rear caliper stock, unless you really wanted to shave off a little weight. You don't need any extra stopping power on the rear, you'll just lock it up faster.
blue dots just fit ('89 and later). You buy them, remove the stock calipers, bolt on the blue dots. Connect the banjo and bleed. Done. :bye2:
Noel and I would both recommend you get an upgraded master cylinder to go with it... Having only changed the master cylinder to the one that came with the blue dots, even though it technically doesn't push enough fluid to quite lock up my front wheel (and is this incompatible with stock calipers), the feel and difference it provides is astounding. Noel speculates that the calipers don't actually change much. But even if they do, I can tell you that the master cylinder certainly provides a huge part of the upgrade. The '02 YZF-R6 came with a radial 14mm master cylinder (though a 19mm is yet a further upgrade) that worked with the blue dots, and that's what I have referred to above. You might find a complete set of calipers and that MC together pretty cheaply on ebay.
:dash2: Dam. I ordered the blue dots before I read your post Fintop. I saw a couple with the master. Now I'm going to have to find a master. Does Anyone out there have one? Hopefully I can find one by its self on eBay.
Oh boy, this does look like something I need to be considering......
Search, you're my friend....
Also if I get a upgraded mc is it just bolt on and go or does it need to be modified?
Quote from: Tex on April 15, 2014, 07:49:22 PM
Also do you guys upgrade the rear caliper? Or leave it stock?
Yes and no. Many people, including myself, find the stock rear brake
too good. So the most common upgrade is in fact a downgrade to a less efficient rear brake.
I always found the stock rear too touchy. Most of the wheels used for 17" conversions come with much smaller discs. Although this is incidental, it does give a more moderate rear brake.
I would not suggest you do anything to improve the efficiency of the standard rear brake.
Noel
Noel when putting on the new SS line how do I bypass ABS? Also would you know what SS brake line I need to order for the whole bike. Remember I am bypassing ABS so do I just order line for a 92 non ABS?
Quote from: Tex on April 16, 2014, 07:37:56 AM
Noel when putting on the new SS line how do I bypass ABS? Also would you know what SS brake line I need to order for the whole bike. Remember I am bypassing ABS so do I just order line for a 92 non ABS?
I can really only quote my own bike experience here. I ordered lines from a manufacturer that had a specific make / model listing for my bike, they were miles too long. Even routing them the longest way possible, across to the left and down (like Pat's I think), they were still too long. Parts no's were checked, lengths checked, they were the correct lines, of which they sell plenty. No problem changing them over but I'm in Aus and they came from the UK. Thankfully postage wasn't too bad.
Anyway, I did what my gut told me I should have done in the first place (actually, I was being lazy and paid the price), measure them myself. They re-sent new lines to the lengths I gave them are they are perfect.
I think I wrote recently that I don't see any value in premium brands for this sort of thing but I strongly recommend getting adjustable banjo's. If you need to twist these lines to get them lined up they kick out and are under constant stress.
I bought Venhill lines, they are very well priced and do the job.
When measuring and fitting them, do so with the front wheel off the ground so the travel (hose length) is at it longest.
Noel
There are actually many choices you can make concerning master cylinders. The obvious choice is late model Yamaha masters. Members here have also used Kawasaki, Honda and Suzuki masters with success.
I use a matching set of Honda VFR800 master cylinders for the brake and clutch. They both work great. I do have blue dot calipers and braided lines.
The following file is actually for the Honda VFR800 clutch mod, but also shows the brake master install.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9635.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9635.0)
Fred
Quote from: fintip on April 16, 2014, 12:11:33 AM
<snip>The '02 YZF-R6 came with a radial 14mm master cylinder (though a 19mm is yet a further upgrade) that worked with the blue dots, and that's what I have referred to above. <snip>
You sure about that? :scratch_one-s_head:
Quote from: Tex on April 15, 2014, 07:49:22 PM
Ok so when ordering braided brake line. Where would you guys get it from and how do I order. Should I order line for a 1992 Fj nonABS? Seeing I'm getting rid of my ABS on the 93? Also do you guys upgrade the rear caliper? Or leave it stock?
I would NOT order new lines to fit the "FJ" as the stock banjo fitting is not correctly positioned for the blue dot calipers.
Just take a look at my photos.
Number 1 is the stock Yamaha FJ set up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/1tinindian/Motorcycles/1_zps0f647599.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/1tinindian/media/Motorcycles/1_zps0f647599.jpg.html)
The second photo is with the OE FJ lines mounted on the blue dot calipers.
Looks kinda dorky to me, sticking out like that.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/1tinindian/Motorcycles/2_zps5a840ac2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/1tinindian/media/Motorcycles/2_zps5a840ac2.jpg.html)
And the last photos are with the custom ordered and fit Spiegler lines mounted on the blue dots.
Much cleaner install because of the different mounting angle of the banjo fitting.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/1tinindian/Motorcycles/3_zps03d67b32.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/1tinindian/media/Motorcycles/3_zps03d67b32.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/1tinindian/100_7470_zpsf79abba3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/1tinindian/media/100_7470_zpsf79abba3.jpg.html)
I also went with FZ1 front master cylinders on both my FJs to avoid the dreaded "urine cup"!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/1tinindian/Motorcycles/100_2852_zps92391ae7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/1tinindian/media/Motorcycles/100_2852_zps92391ae7.jpg.html)
On the ABS model, be prepared to do some minor wiring to get the brake light switch to work, as it uses a 3-wire, where as the non-ABS models use a 2-wire.
Leon
Leon, I found that the stock FJ lines fit my blue spots just fine....
I had to reverse the R/L sides and flip the lines upside down.
When I first swapped over to the blue dots, the braided line I already had wouldn't bolt up.
Then I turned them upside down, and they worked great... well, at least well enough that I'm still using them.
Hah! Looks like Pat did about the same thing...
Leon, the 'dreaded urine cup' looks a lot better with DOT5 in it! :blum1:
You guys are CRAZY!!! :ireful:
Turning your brake lines up side down??? :dash2:
What has the world come too? LOL! :wacko1: :lol: :flag_of_truce:
If I had known that/s what was being done, I would have tried it.
No worries, I can still play around with the 93 to see how they look. :dance2:
Leon
Leon, just remember...if you reverse the lines, you don't squeeze the brake lever to stop...
You have to hold the brake lever in then release it when you want to stop...don't worry, practice, you will get real good at it while the same hand works the throttle...
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 16, 2014, 04:04:24 PM
Leon, just remember...if you reverse the lines, you don't squeeze the brake lever to stop...
You have to hold the brake lever in then release it when you want to stop...don't worry, practice, you will get real good at it while the same hand works the throttle...
Good catch, I'll have to remember that! LOL! :crazy:
But seriously Pat, this just gave me a reason to post pictures of my FJ.
Leon
Ok Leon right when I thought I was starting to figure out what I need to do you threw in another curve. Well first I'm getting Galfer lines in which the banjo's are adjustable. I think I'm correct at my measurements. 17" from caliper to elbow joint and 15" from elbow joint to master. I hope. I emailed them to see what the lengths of there Non-ABS lines are. Over the phone the girl sdaid "we cant give our Specs out" :dash1: Really? not even the length of a line in a model specific kit. I can see not the full specs of the line it self but length>?
But where the curve comes in is the brake light wiring. So is this just the case for the FZ1 or any master I get? Is the wiring easy? If I just upgraded to the blue dots and SS line will that be a significant upgrade? would I feel the difference from stock? Or is the master a must? Funds are the reason I ask. I can only put so much into her right now. :scratch_one-s_head:
BTW I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for helping me out. Its so much appreciated. :drinks: I have two separate threads going and trying to soak in as much as possible, so when I start this mod I have everything I need and it is all going to work. Limited down time, 1 day I hope, the weather is breaking and I need to ride. :good2:
Also when I have it all figured out I will make something up to put into the files section on how to add Bluedots and convert from ABS to Non-ABS.
I have not done the wiring yet on my 93, but it shouldn't be too difficult.
As far as ordering lines, I would suggest to eliminate the "Y", and make two complete, and separate lines all the way to the master cylinder. It is what I did and it works fine. I just took a roll of solder and used that as my pattern, allowing for extra length for when the forks are fully extended.
I would say ANY master cylinder you use will need to be wired as a two-wire, as the ABS bikes 3rd wire is supplying info to the ABS unit, which you will no longer be using.
It's just a matter of determining what 2 wires you'll need for the brake light and attach the needed ends to plug into you master new master cylinder.
Leon
Quote from: 1tinindian on April 16, 2014, 08:27:48 PM
I have not done the wiring yet on my 93, but it shouldn't be too difficult.
As far as ordering lines, I would suggest to eliminate the "Y", and make two complete, and separate lines all the way to the master cylinder. It is what I did and it works fine. I just took a roll of solder and used that as my pattern, allowing for extra length for when the forks are fully extended.
I would say ANY master cylinder you use will need to be wired as a two-wire, as the ABS bikes 3rd wire is supplying info to the ABS unit, which you will no longer be using.
It's just a matter of determining what 2 wires you'll need for the brake light and attach the needed ends to plug into you master new master cylinder.
Leon
A piece of Romex works pretty well for making a pattern, as well.
Not a lib: Yes, I am sure. I actually looked up the stock specs and found that out. I have this radial unit in my possession, and got it from a local guy who owned the wrecked bike himself.
Tex: You will feel some upgrade, but we would love to hear how much. Some will be from the stainless lines themselves, and some may be from the calipers. You might try doing a hard brake test fron 30 to zero, say down your street, and use some marker on the street to determine how long it takes. Do your best. And then do the same after the upgrade and tell us.
Leon: Some like the urine cup, some don't. To me, it looks like a performance, late model part with the urine cup. You can buy metal 'urine cups' cheaply on ebay, though, if you don't like the plastic look...
Noel: I've heard that, but... Can't you just use the adjustment screw to back off the rear brake? Or maybe just add some air to the line? It's not that hard to make a brake work less efficiently than maximum.
Anyways, I'm just used to it I guess. I'm sure it could be upgraded. As long as it locks the wheel at the very end of the range, it's good.
Quote from: fintip on April 16, 2014, 09:56:31 PM
Leon: Some like the urine cup, some don't. To me, it looks like a performance, late model part with the urine cup. You can buy metal 'urine cups' cheaply on ebay, though, if you don't like the plastic look...
Or use a master cylinder from a FZ1 :dash2: and have it look stock for an FJ.
Leon, you are misreading me. I was talking about a radial master cylinder, not radial calipers. (deleted your comment?)
I enjoy the look of the so-called 'urine cup'. But yes, that's your prerogative.
Quote from: fintip on April 16, 2014, 11:02:35 PM
Radial master cylinder, not calipers.
I enjoy the look of the so-called 'urine cup'. But yes, that's your prerogative.
Why have a radial master cylinder and NOT radial calipers??
My research can not verify your claim.
Leon
Leon, a radial m/c vs a axial m/c is a separate issue from a radial mounted caliper vs a axial mounted caliper.
The two are not related.
IOW you don't need to match radial with radial and axial with axial.
Radial m/c's work just fine with axial mounted calipers and vice versa.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 16, 2014, 11:55:59 PM
Leon, a radial m/c vs a axial m/c is a separate issue from a radial mounted caliper vs a axial mounted caliper.
The two are not related.
IOW you don't need to match radial with radial and axial with axial.
Radial m/c's work just fine with axial mounted calipers and vice versa.
Understood Pat, but is that how Yamaha built the R6??
That is what is in question.
What makes a master cylinder "radial", if it came on a bike from the factory with NON- radial (axial) calipers?
Leon
Just to clarify some for the OP who, no doubt wants accurate info to do this upgrade:
- Some here are using the OEM FJ m/c with the blue (or gold or silver) dot calipers, and it reportedly works fine.
- Using a 14mm axial m/c (urine cup or not) is an upgrade in power and feel compared to the OEM FJ m/c.
- Jon Cain has reported in the past that a 19mm radial m/c is an upgrade compared to the two options above.
- Certain combinations of m/c and blue dots can be installed with the old brake lines reoriented. The blue dots with the outside line are different, IIRC.
- You can use radial m/c with conventional blue dots. The calipers cannot see and do not care what is pushing the fluid to them.
- Despite assertions to the contrary, the '02 R6 m/c is not radial, either in my recollection, or in Yamaha's parts list: https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy#/Yamaha/YZFR6_-_YZFR6P_-_2002/FRONT_MASTER_CYLINDER (https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy#/Yamaha/YZFR6_-_YZFR6P_-_2002/FRONT_MASTER_CYLINDER) It may be a 14mm axial, but if the one Fintip has is a radial, it's not OEM to the '02 R6, or likely not 14mm. IIRC, it's exactly the same part as the three R1 m/cs that I have here in the garage.
I was going to leave this alone, but it seems that there was enough going on here to muddy the water for anyone who might be contemplating this swap. :pardon:
I put black ss brake lines on my 86. Two separate lines from the master cylinder to the calipers. Here is the link to the post about the lengths.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6771.msg60752#msg60752 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6771.msg60752#msg60752)
Derek
(popcorn)
Well, I guess that means the guy I got mine from had upgraded his?
Went and checked some more... You're right, I should have realized from the aftermarket coloring of the lever that it might be changed. It is hard to tell looking at pictures, as these radial MC's don't have a lot to look at, but the banjos on mine bolt on with a screw going vertically through them, instead of horizontally, as it does on the stock R6, as far as I can tell.
So after some tricky sleuthing, I found out that some R6 owners have been known to update theirs by converting to an '07/'08 Honda 600RR Master Cylinder, which seems to be what mine has, based on visual confirmation:
(http://assets.suredone.com/1533/media-photos/1285-4-07-08-honda-600rr-oem-front-brake-master-cylinder-with-lever-reservoir-stock.jpg)
Mine:
(http://i.imgur.com/pq1XRWZ.jpg)
Bonus, mine comes with this fancy-as-shit adjustable/folding (to prevent break in case of crash) lever:
https://www.denniskirk.com/folding-roll-a-click-brake-lever.p574092.prd/574092.sku (https://www.denniskirk.com/folding-roll-a-click-brake-lever.p574092.prd/574092.sku)
And the size? 17.5mm, it seems. (here) (http://www.bulkky.com/honda-motorcycle-information/cbr600/cbr600rr-07-08/cbr600rr-07-08-front-wheel-suspension-steering-brake).
Which strikes me as odd. If a 19mm radial M/C works with the stock calipers, 17.5mm isn't that big of a difference... That should work too, right? I was presuming, since I thought it was 14mm, that it was just too small of a piston to drive enough fluid to get mine to work (wheel won't lock up until 1.5 strokes of lever, almost no braking power until at 60% through with first stroke), but maybe it does need a rebuild kit and it would work?
Moot point now, since I'm going to be getting a '90 and putting blue spots with it. Guess if it gives the same symptom with the blue spots, I'll know for sure. Pretty sweet bonus, though. The lever alone is worth $130 new, and the M/C is worth some money as well. Not the most aesthetically pleasing unit in terms of having some scratches and such, but should be excellent from a performance perspective.
Okay, I'll type this real slow.
The radial master cylinder has a short distance between the lever pivot point and the piston. An axial m/c has a greater distance between the pivot and piston.
The radial produces more force on the m/c piston for a given force pulling the lever. This generates more pressure. So the radial is more efficient at producing brake fluid pressure for a given input (compared to an axial unit).
Having the lever pivot so close to the piston also means that the piston doesn't have as much stroke as an axial unit. Less stroke means less fluid movement; therefore, it needs a larger piston to compensate. This is the problem you are having. The 17.5mm piston does not have enough stroke to deliver enough fluid to create pressure with one full pull. After your second pull, you move enough fluid to get pressure and then get to see the benefit of the higher efficiency of the radial design.
Unfortunately, this will never be an acceptable solution for the calipers you want to use.
You need a 19mm radial or a 14mm axial
Well explained Hooligan..... Even I understood that... :good2:
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on April 17, 2014, 12:47:01 PM
Okay, I'll type this real slow.
The radial master cylinder has a short distance between the lever pivot point and the piston. An axial m/c has a greater distance between the pivot and piston.
The radial produces more force on the m/c piston for a given force pulling the lever. This generates more pressure. So the radial is more efficient at producing brake fluid pressure for a given input (compared to an axial unit).
Having the lever pivot so close to the piston also means that the piston doesn't have as much stroke as an axial unit. Less stroke means less fluid movement; therefore, it needs a larger piston to compensate. This is the problem you are having. The 17.5mm piston does not have enough stroke to deliver enough fluid to create pressure with one full pull. After your second pull, you move enough fluid to get pressure and then get to see the benefit of the higher efficiency of the radial design.
Unfortunately, this will never be an acceptable solution for the calipers you want to use.
You need a 19mm radial or a 14mm axial
There's no reason to be demeaning; I understand all of that. My point was that if a 19mm radial M/C works, it doesn't sound likely that a 17.5 would just *not* work. These aren't 'the calipers I want to use', just the calipers I tried to use. Likewise, one does not 'need' a 14mm axial unit, and a range of piston sizes are possible. 15.875mm (5/8") Seems to be the stock MC piston size. The difference between 15.875 and 14 isn't so different from 19 to 17.5.
So yes, it's possible. But until you actually show me some math, it seems possible that the seal of the rubber inside is weak, as well.
No slow typing needing...
Received the Blue Dots today. They look in great shape. Cleaner them up a bit. The pistons compressed with two fingers. :good2: Now I have to wait for my Galfer SS lines. They wont be here until the end of next week. :dash1: New pads will be here as well. EBC HH. Let the waiting begin. :drinks:
(http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w639/Scott_Ruskay/PhotoApr1853307PM_zps9a45b12f.jpg)
(http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w639/Scott_Ruskay/PhotoApr1853327PM_zps67a15419.jpg)
Quote from: fintip on April 18, 2014, 04:50:41 PM
There's no reason to be demeaning; I understand all of that. My point was that if a 19mm radial M/C works, it doesn't sound likely that a 17.5 would just *not* work. These aren't 'the calipers I want to use', just the calipers I tried to use. Likewise, one does not 'need' a 14mm axial unit, and a range of piston sizes are possible. 15.875mm (5/8") Seems to be the stock MC piston size. The difference between 15.875 and 14 isn't so different from 19 to 17.5.
So yes, it's possible. But until you actually show me some math, it seems possible that the seal of the rubber inside is weak, as well.
No slow typing needing...
No reason the master you have shouldn't work. The stock 05+ R6 and 04+ R1 masters are 16mm units (not sure on lever measurement). If you cannot get pressure with the set up you have either the caliper pistons are stuck, they are poorly bled, or the master needs to be rebuilt.
Bleeding the system is pretty easy with a auto part store "1 man bleeder kit" and the master you show has a bleeder it the top for bleeding the master. It wouldn't be too difficult to disassemble and clean the master as old brake fluid can leave deposits in the system if it has been sitting for a while.
The system is definitely fully bled, I used two different suction devices, so I find it likely that it isn't in optimal working conditioning. A rebuild will be in order.
Quote from: fintip on April 18, 2014, 04:50:41 PM
There's no reason to be demeaning; I understand all of that. My point was that if a 19mm radial M/C works, it doesn't sound likely that a 17.5 would just *not* work. These aren't 'the calipers I want to use', just the calipers I tried to use. Likewise, one does not 'need' a 14mm axial unit, and a range of piston sizes are possible. 15.875mm (5/8") Seems to be the stock MC piston size. The difference between 15.875 and 14 isn't so different from 19 to 17.5.
So yes, it's possible. But until you actually show me some math, it seems possible that the seal of the rubber inside is weak, as well.
No slow typing needing...
Well then maybe you need to read more closely and comprehend. I clearly explained why that master cylinder will not work with those calipers. Actually both masters will "work" but the radial takes more than one stroke before it develops pressure. I would consider that as technically not working for a braking system.
It's not just the diameter of the pistons, it's the STROKE also. The piston size is only part of the fluid movement equation, the other is the stroke.
If the m/c had "weak rubber" it would either be leaking externally and you would see it. Or, if it's leaking internally, it would not generate pressure.
I can't do the math, there are too many unknowns, the biggest being how much fluid does the m/c need to move into the calipers to engage the pads.
I will do some ratios:
The 17.5mm piston has 85% of the area of the 19mm piston.
The 14mm piston has 78% of the area of the 5/8" piston.
For these pistons to move the same amount of fluid, the stroke of the radial m/c is only 64% of the axial m/c stroke.
Or think about it this way. For a given movement of the lever, the radial m/c delivers less than 64% of the fluid that an axial m/c would deliver.
I'm giving you sound logic and you reply with what you "think" is happening.
But you go right ahead and rebuild that master cylinder and report back.
:dash1:
I'm not going to keep talking with you because
A) you don't realize that if a 16mm radial works, a 17.5 radial will work
B) you're kind of being an asshole. I don't need the advice of someone who talks like that to me. Chill. And I'm not asking you, so don't feel the need to respond.
Weak rubber won't build *full* pressure, but will expand and develop partial pressure. But the pressure will slowly fade, because it isn't a perfect seal. But it is partial seal. It isn't leaking, it's internal.
Quote from: fintip on April 18, 2014, 09:17:18 PM
:dash1:
I'm not going to keep talking with you because
A) you don't realize that if a 16mm radial works, a 17.5 radial will work
B) you're kind of being an asshole. I don't need the advice of someone who talks like that to me. Chill. And I'm not asking you, so don't feel the need to respond.
Weak rubber won't build *full* pressure, but will expand and develop partial pressure. But the pressure will slowly fade, because it isn't a perfect seal. But it is partial seal. It isn't leaking, it's internal.
Kyle, chill dude, its all good..... The web really screws with the human touch of communication. This is a digital campfire and most of us are good people with good intentions. Keep that in mind please...
FJ_Hooligans answer explains it perfectly.
Sorry Kyle, I get a little over-amped occasionally.
I don't recall you upgrading the front end of your '86. Is it possible you're using this master cylinder with the stock 2-piston calipers?
It's all good, I'm sure I've done it before too. I'm about to purchase a '90, which I found while looking for late model forks so I could fit the blue spots I have.
Mark, I gave a calm response to the first rude statement, said no more to the second. I don't feel like I was too over the top, and we've resolved it.
And yes, was using it with stock 2pots.
Quote from: fintip on April 18, 2014, 10:18:39 PM
And yes, was using it with stock 2pots.
Okay, this all makes sense now. This was apples and oranges.
That master will not work with the 2-piston calipers, but hang onto it as it WILL work with the blue dots.
By using this 17.5mm master cylinder the R6 owners might actually be degrading their brake performance. However, a little research shows additional missing information. A radial master has 2 numbers; the piston diameter and the pivot distance. Lacking the pivot distances it's impossible to determine the overall master cylinder efficiency.
So finally ABS taken out and the blue dots on with the new SS brake lines. Thanks everyone for all the help and advise. 3 hour project well worth it. The stopping power and distance is a huge improvement. No need to change the MC. Anything better might throw me over the bars. :good2:
Atta boy Scottie :good2:
blue dots and Ducati rotors
Nice combo
well... at least I like it
Quote from: ccsct203 on June 02, 2014, 08:40:27 PM
blue dots and Ducati rotors
Nice combo
well... at least I like it
Everything with a whit rim is nice!! :good2:
I love cleaning my rims and get the white and shiny after some days of riding... :dash1: