Hey guys,
The short question is - how?
I never did any chain replacement on my bikes before I switched to shaft drive bikes. I can do it I am sure after someone gives me a few pointers.
I plan to cut the old one off with a Dremel tool (don't need the old chain so work smarter, not harder right).
Then can you just put the new one on with a master link? Any advice (including what chain to get and where to get it from) would be greatly appreciated.
You can use a ML chain, I did for many years with out issue. But the FJ is strong motor and now that I am getting more Kookaloo on my weekend rides I am glad I switched to a rivet chain. A chain coming loose is gonna tear up expensive stuff and possibly your leg. Invest in the chain tool and get the strongest chain you can afford.
I also have run both but I recommend a rivet link. The FJ has a fair amount of tq and can be hard on inexpensive chains. When one lets go it can cause a lot of damage. Here is an interesting thread to read through. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8663.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8663.0).
A good ZZZ chain can be bought for less than 150.00.
George
I suggest that you inspect or replace your front sprocket (rear too if in need of course) when you re-chain.
Here's how:
Tools Required
8 mm socket/ adapters as needed for extension
3" or longer extension
Ratchet wrench
36 mm socket
Breaker Bar or impact wrench
Length of Wire or bungee cord (to secure clutch slave cylinder)
I Remove Shifter linkage
1. Remove circlip/washer from shifter pivot post
2. Remove clamp-bolt (at transmission shifter shaft)
3. Remove shift arm from transmission shifter shaft
4. Remove shifter assembly from engine/frame
II Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly / case cover
5. Remove the 3 (8mm) bolts that secure the clutch slave cylinder
6. Pull slave cylinder assembly away from crankcase cover/secure with wire or bungee
7.. Remove the 3 (8mm) bolts that secure the case cover/remove case cover
CAUTION don't lose the locating dowel at the bottom of the cover
III Slacken the chain
8. Remove cotter pin/loosen axel nut/ back off adjusters
IV Remove Sprocket
9. Flatten tabs of the sprocket lock washer
10. (if air tools not available) Have assistant apply rear brake firmly
11. Loosen/Remove sprocket retaining nut (36mm )/washer
12. Pull sprocket from shaft/remove from chain
V. Install new Sprocket
13. Put sprocket onto chain and slip onto shaft
14. Replace retaining washer, nut/torque nut/bend tabs of retaining washer
VI Button it up
The EK ZZZ chain is well regarded as super durable. I have 15,000 miles on mine and it's only ever been adjusted twice. Good stuff! Also, the advice for replacing sprockets when you replace the chain is a good one. Worn sprockets will try to wear the chain to "match" and a worn chain will prematurely wear a sprocket. Randy has brand new Yamaha 17 tooth front sprockets (take-offs from new Legend engines) for $15. FIFTEEN bucks!! :shok: Just do it.
(http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A17t)
Cap'n Ron. . .
If you do use a split link chain, make sure the horse shoe clip is fitted properly. Have the rounded part of the clip facing the way of rotation.
Tony.
Quote from: Bones on April 05, 2014, 01:46:24 AM
If you do use a split link chain, make sure the horse shoe clip is fitted properly. Have the rounded part of the clip facing the way of rotation.
Tony.
And safety wire the clip on...