Hey guys. I'm absolutely loving my new bike. My play time is over for now though, and I must prepare my bike for the harsh Arizona summers (100+ degrees May-August). Keep in mind I'm big bored. I've already got this ordered: http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJCoolerKit (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJCoolerKit) Now I know that it can't possibly be enough for stop-and-go traffic, or is it? I was thinking about rigging some metal computer fans to the oil cooler, yay or nay? Also I don't have a belly pan on my bike, would one of those help "scoop" the air better over my header pipes and engine? Thanks for any input! :good2:
I don't think your lower scoop will help in stop and go traffic, only with forward motion. Once you have forward motion you won't have much for cooling issues with the RPM cooler. It is the sitting still part that will cook your chook. Cooling fans to keep air moving through the RPM cooler will give you the most bang for your buck. Too bad filtering and lane splitting is not legal in AZ, good thing I had CA plates when I was pulled over for it. I was warned and released by the considerate law enforcement. Best advice in the AZ summer heat, stay out of stop & go traffic unless you and your vehicle have proper cooling. Been there, done that, in leather, it was HOT!!!
Quote from: FJmonkey on March 18, 2014, 06:19:37 PM
I don't think your lower scoop will help in stop and go traffic, only with forward motion. Once you have forward motion you won't have much for cooling issues with the RPM cooler. It is the sitting still part that will cook your chook. Cooling fans to keep air moving through the RPM cooler will give you the most bang for your buck. Too bad filtering and lane splitting is not legal in AZ, good thing I had CA plates when I was pulled over for it. I was warned and released by the considerate law enforcement. Best advice in the AZ summer heat, stay out of stop & go traffic unless you and your vehicle have proper cooling. Been there, done that, in leather, it was HOT!!!
Lol lucky you! I'm not worried about myself I LOVE the heat here. I just ordered a matching mesh jacket and pants combo. I'm defnitely going to see how this computer fan idea works out. I just want the damn snowbirds and spring training junkies to leave my city! :diablo: Freeways are at a standstill everyday now.
With your plans of riding your FJ in the AZ summer. I would also add a Oil Temp Gauge to monitor the internal temps.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3ARPMMGP&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3ARPMMGP&cat=39)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-Smoke-7-Color-LED-Oil-Temperature-Temp-Gauge-Pod-Meter-w-Sender-New-/390616885735?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af294a9e7&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-Smoke-7-Color-LED-Oil-Temperature-Temp-Gauge-Pod-Meter-w-Sender-New-/390616885735?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af294a9e7&vxp=mtr)
Fred
In order: 1) Proper jetting 2) RPM cooler 3) 15w-50 Ester based full synthetic (Redline oil, Amsoil, etc)
DO NOT forget a 2 liter Camelback for the rider. Don't leave home without one.
Remember, the inverse of wind chill effect is real and deadly, hydrate, hydrate, hydrate.
Cheers and again congratulations!
Quote from: aviationfred on March 18, 2014, 07:00:26 PM
With your plans of riding your FJ in the AZ summer. I would also add a Oil Temp Gauge to monitor the internal temps.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3ARPMMGP&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3ARPMMGP&cat=39)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-Smoke-7-Color-LED-Oil-Temperature-Temp-Gauge-Pod-Meter-w-Sender-New-/390616885735?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af294a9e7&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-Smoke-7-Color-LED-Oil-Temperature-Temp-Gauge-Pod-Meter-w-Sender-New-/390616885735?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af294a9e7&vxp=mtr)
Fred
Wow that's pretty cheap and VERY useful! Thanks for the recommendation. I will definitely have to do that.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 18, 2014, 08:46:10 PM
In order: 1) Proper jetting 2) RPM cooler 3) 15w-50 Ester based full synthetic (Redline oil, Amsoil, etc)
DO NOT forget a 2 liter Camelback for the rider. Don't leave home without one.
Remember, the inverse of wind chill effect is real and deadly, hydrate, hydrate, hydrate.
Cheers and again congratulations!
Neck Muff too.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 18, 2014, 08:46:10 PM
3) 15w-50 Ester based full synthetic (Redline oil, Amsoil, etc)
Amsoil available here. Drop me a PM.
That just sounds obscene ...
Using a thicker oil will help keep the engine cool. I use Yamalube 20w/50 in mine and haven't ever had a problem of running to hot.
Quote from: motogp52 on March 19, 2014, 12:34:27 PM
Using a thicker oil will help keep the engine cool. I use Yamalube 20w/50 in mine and haven't ever had a problem of running to hot.
This is a very common misconception that thicker oil helps keep the engine cool. The exact opposite is true, to a point. Its a complicated subject that can be boiled down to flow. Pressure and flow are inversely proportional. When pressure goes up flow goes down and its flow that cools the engine.....Dammitt, I told myself I would not get sucked into an oil debate :dash1:
IMHO a fully synthetic 10w-40 meets the recommended viscosity specification better than a 20w-50.
in addition to Pats recommendations there are steps you can take to keep exhaust heat in the exhaust system. ceramic coatings help reflect the heat back into the headers. You can wrap the headers as well to insulate. To me the header wraps are ugly but effective.
Scott
Quote from: FJscott on March 19, 2014, 04:27:55 PM
Quote from: motogp52 on March 19, 2014, 12:34:27 PM
Using a thicker oil will help keep the engine cool. I use Yamalube 20w/50 in mine and haven't ever had a problem of running to hot.
This is a very common misconception that thicker oil helps keep the engine cool. The exact opposite is true, to a point. Its a complicated subject that can be boiled down to flow. Pressure and flow are inversely proportional. When pressure goes up flow goes down and its flow that cools the engine.....Dammitt, I told myself I would not get sucked into an oil debate :dash1:
IMHO a fully synthetic 10w-40 meets the recommended viscosity specification better than a 20w-50.
in addition to Pats recommendations there are steps you can take to keep exhaust heat in the exhaust system. ceramic coatings help reflect the heat back into the headers. You can wrap the headers as well to insulate. To me the header wraps are ugly but effective.
Scott
Lots of good ideas here and I've incorporated a few:
While I was doing the full rebuild, I had the headers coated with a thermal barrier ceramic coating to help keep the heat *inside* the headers.
"Thermal Barrier products significantly reduce heat transfer of components that operate at elevated temperatures. These coatings are used extensively in the automotive, commercial truck, heavy equipment and performance racing industries. Thermal barrier products increase performance, reduce maintenance cost and protect against corrosion. Thermal Barrier products can alter heat transfer by up to 15% depending on the specific application."I also had the cylinders coated with Cerakote Transfer Black C-187 to help get the heat *out* of the engine.
"Transfer Black is formulated to provide an increased thermal transfer from a surface to a free flowing air environment. When applied to metal substrates, this coating is proven to increase thermal transfer of up to 35-40% versus uncoated metal substrates. This increased thermal transfer results in components operating at lower temperatures, thus creating gains in efficiency, and extending part life."I use a full synthetic, wet clutch specific 10w-40 motorcycle oil and am about to install Randy's shiny new oil cooler.
I also effectively use lane splitting and timing for red lights to minimize my ever needing to stop in traffic.
Added up, this gives the engine the best chance of staying cool on the odd occasion I'm riding in 100 degree temps here in SoCal.
Cap'n Ron. . .
I have Delkevic silencers on my 3CV. Apart from the noise :good2:, They are not hot to the tough after a run, compared to the standard silencers,. So, I assume they flow freer (freeer?) and let the exhaust heat out quicker.
Quote from: ELIMINATOR on March 20, 2014, 11:44:47 AM
I have Delkevic silencers on my 3CV. Apart from the noise :good2:, They are not hot to the tough after a run, compared to the standard silencers,. So, I assume they flow freer (freeer?) and let the exhaust heat out quicker.
Could that be from a "hot" day in England being ~65F? :rofl2:
Sorry! Couldn't help myself!
To actually add to the thread, when I'm commuting during the summer here in Austin (that tends to run from March to November most years) and in stop-and-go traffic, I have found that NOT having the belly pan on helps the bike shed heat. I've got both a larger oil cooler (13-row Setrab) and an oil temp gauge to monitor the heat. Even in 105F+ temps, the oil rarely tops 225F unless I'm really stuck in traffic and not moving for 5-10 minutes where it has hit 245F before. As soon as I get moving again, it drops pretty quickly back into the 220s. The oil cooler works so well that I have to actually cover it up during the winter months or the bike never really warms up. I installed it before Randy offered his (with its internal thermostat).
I also change things around for the seasons like running the stock airbox in the winter (K&N filter and lots of 1/2" holes drilled in the intake side to keep the "snorkel" from being a restriction and the air runners in the airbox really do make a difference in low-end response) and UNI pods in the summer to ingest the coolest air possible when it's hot. Also, the inner rear fender has been removed so more hot air can exit the carb/under-seat area.
And it always matters what you are doing... but one thing the made quite a difference on a ride out to CA in July a few years ago (I think it was ~115F heading across the CA desert) was that I pushed my fork tubes down in the triples to give me an extra inch or so of ride height in the front. Made quite a difference in airflow thru the oil cooler. That was a pretty hot ride. The kind of ride where you move your hands out to the ends of your bars to cool them off only to find out it doesn't help! And yes, there was a Camelback in my tank bag! Filled it with ice twice that day.
In my opinion removing the airbox and installing the unipods will reduce the running temperature. It allows more airflow .
Quote from: fj johnnie on March 20, 2014, 09:01:15 PM
In my opinion removing the airbox and installing the unipods will reduce the running temperature. It allows more airflow .
Common misconception.
A high efficiency exhaust system and Low restriction air filters will cause your fuel air ratio to change.
More air in and more air out of your engine will cause your engine to run lean, thus hotter, not cooler.
That's why 'proper jetting' is always #1 on the list for a cool running engine.
Jetting, jetting, jetting.
So I installed the oil cooler and the Uni Pods that RPM sells. The pods are causing me to run richer! Compared to the horrible (super airflow not filtering out dust) K&N pods. (I have an air/fuel ratio meter mounted so I can tell). That definitely works to my benefit though because that richer ratio will keep my engine cooler. I just have to order the temp gauge and adapter mount thing and I'm all set! Bike was getting so hot touching the plastics burned lol. Thanks for all of the advice guys!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 20, 2014, 09:51:32 PM
Quote from: fj johnnie on March 20, 2014, 09:01:15 PM
In my opinion removing the airbox and installing the unipods will reduce the running temperature. It allows more airflow .
Common misconception.
A high efficiency exhaust system and Low restriction air filters will cause your fuel air ratio to change.
More air in and more air out of your engine will cause your engine to run lean, thus hotter, not cooler.
That's why 'proper jetting' is always #1 on the list for a cool running engine.
Jetting, jetting, jetting.
Sorry what I meant was that with the stock airbox removed, airflow around the outside of the motor is enhanced. The stock airbox will reduce airflow, as it is a big mass blocking air from flowing freely through the center of the bike.
Gotcha, remember the air box is on the other side of the heat shield and the shield physically blocks a lot of air (and heat) from passing through.
An early hard lesson I learned: Don't remove the heat shield and/or lower curtain...(don't ask)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 24, 2014, 06:54:23 PM
Gotcha, remember the air box is on the other side of the heat shield and the shield physically blocks a lot of air (and heat) from passing through.
An early hard lesson I learned: Don't remove the heat shield and/or lower curtain...(don't ask)
You read these post's and you always learn something.. I raised my shield up a little around the starter/ alt area with the thought of additional cooling. Guess tomorrow the curtain will come back down :dash2:.
George