I noticed this morning and once a month ago when starting it was slow in starting. It did this "woo woo woo " type sound like its a drained battery. I bought a new battery last year and leave it on the charger but it was one of those real cheapy generic brand ones too. What should I be looking for next time(if) it happens again?
I am very happy with the AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery I got from Randy. It cranks better than the bargin brand Lead Acid battery and should last longer. It also keeps a charge better than my old battery. I also like the fact that it is sealed. If you want save weight and make tour wallet lighter Randy has the Lithium battery as well. It should crank even harder.
Randy's batteries: http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=battery (http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=battery)
Does my issue sound like a battery issue for sure though? It's only happened twice and everytime wile sitting(it's always on a battery tender though)?
You can take it to an automotive shop and have it tested. That way you can know with more certainty. Most of the time this issue is caused by a weak battery. My old battery got progressively worse and finally would not crank at all, so I knew it was the battery. I kept it on a tender as well and kept the electrolyte topped off, I got about 4 or 5 years out it. I don't bother with the tender on my AGM battery. The few times I put it on the tender, it switched to from charge to maintain after a minute. So unless it is gonna sit for more than a month I don't bother.
Leaving the battery on a trickle charge or tender does not help the life of it one bit.
I use AGM batteries on all my bikes, 4 of them, and they really are a superior battery. Gel batteries are not quite as good but are better than a "wet" type battery.
You might be able to pull the life back into it, if you are lucky, but I'd start thinking about another one.
I agree on the battery issue..... Well said fellas...
However, it may be a good time to consider cleaning and servicing your starter motor.
Follow the path of power from the battery to the starter. Take apart, sand and clean all the electrical connections.
Thx guys- I saw those earthx batteries at the motorcycle show recently and was considering one. The battery I have now was an emergency buy and was the absolute cheapest one I could find at the time. Think it was like $60 special. I didn't realize keeping on battery tender didnt matter
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 26, 2014, 11:57:24 AM
I agree on the battery issue..... Well said fellas...
However, it may be a good time to consider cleaning and servicing your starter motor.
Follow the path of power from the battery to the starter. Take apart, sand and clean all the electrical connections.
What Pat said.
The best battery won't help if your starter is crap. :unknown:
That said, while the AGM batteries rock, the lithium ones are way beyond, performance wise.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 26, 2014, 11:57:24 AM
I agree on the battery issue..... Well said fellas...
However, it may be a good time to consider cleaning and servicing your starter motor.
Follow the path of power from the battery to the starter. Take apart, sand and clean all the electrical connections.
^^^^^^^^^^^this right here. It should make a big improvement.
AGM batteries are an expensive taste. Once you learn that you don't have to simply get a new battery every or everyother winter...., then figure out that they really do last approaching forever? And the cranking power is a dramatic jump, too. Now I've got them in everything that's been in runnable condition that needed a battery at the time. You feel a bit of a dork paying double the going rate, but I've yet to have one strand me in any of my cars/bikes.
I'll reinforce Pat's idea as well. A starter with a nice tummy full of clean bits works much better than one that is full of bleah. And it's not a big job at all to do.
Hey Vsek, if you really want to check your battery, try these instructions from Yuasa. Even though it sounds like you don't have that brand of battery, you should get similar readings from your Voltmeter.
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&id=30 (http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&id=30)
QuoteYuasa FAQ's
How do I test my 12 Volt battery and charging system?
Whenever handling your powersports battery, make sure you wear eye protection and take the appropriate safety precautions associated with handling lead acid batteries.
Following are three tests you can perform on your battery and charging system.
Static Battery Voltage Test
-Prior to conducting this test, make sure the battery has not been recently charged. You must wait at least one hour after charging your battery to conduct this test.
-Adjust voltmeter to DC volts (20 volt range).
-Place voltmeter leads to the battery terminals. (positive to positive and negative to negative)
-Read voltage and refer to the chart below.
Methods of Checking Battery Condition
Voltmeter
100% Charged (w/Sulfate Stop) 12.80v
100% Charged 12.60v
75% Charged 12.40v
50% Charged 12.10v
25% Charged 11.90v
0% Charged less than 11.80v
Starting Load Test
-Adjust voltmeter to DC volts (20 volt range).
-Place voltmeter leads to the battery terminals. (positive to positive and negative to negative)
-Watch the voltmeter as you start your motorcycle.
-If the voltage drops below 9.5 volts, the battery has very low capacity and should be replaced.
Charging System Test
-Adjust voltmeter to DC volts (20 volt range).
-Place voltmeter leads to the battery terminals. (positive to positive and negative to negative)
-Start your motorcycle.
-Bring engine RPM's up to approximately 3,000
-Compare the voltage reading to the specification in your owner's manual.
Quote from: andyb on February 26, 2014, 01:27:19 PM
AGM batteries are an expensive taste. Once you learn that you don't have to simply get a new battery every or everyother winter...., then figure out that they really do last approaching forever? And the cranking power is a dramatic jump, too. Now I've got them in everything that's been in runnable condition that needed a battery at the time. You feel a bit of a dork paying double the going rate, but I've yet to have one strand me in any of my cars/bikes.
I'll reinforce Pat's idea as well. A starter with a nice tummy full of clean bits works much better than one that is full of bleah. And it's not a big job at all to do.
I used to think the AGMs were pretty impressive too, until I watched giantkiller give his lithium battery a workout at the '11 ECFR.
My AGM would've probably been run down almost twice over. But it did last
several years.
OTOH, if you think the AGMs are expen$ive, don't look at the lithiums. :shok:
Clean all the terminals up including the ground cable end on the engine. Follow FeralRdr's advice.
I run a off brand AGM and it's been good for me. Waiting for it to die so I can try a Lithium battery......
George