So guys, i had to get apart all the four carbs. I have seen that all the diaphragms have holes, and/or cracks on them.
3-5 on each diaphragm.
I had to buy an another used carbs-line on sunday. I disassembled it : same trouble - all diaphragms are dead.
Now, i think these holes cannot be fixed right ? The diaphragms would be too rigid after a bonding.
Replace, clear alternative.
Okay, i have two ideas. First, i have also an old but great conditioned '88 XJ900 Seca (31A)
Could it be that the Seca has the SAME diaphragms as the FJ does ? For the first look the carbs are the same.
The second idea is that i will buy that FJOC replacement kit, or i'll search on Ebay.
(http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5263/kp039.jpg) (http://img23.imageshack.us/i/kp039.jpg/)
Vilike........this company is in Canada I believe.......they are the cheapest I have been able to find.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-FJ1100-FJ1200-CARB-SLIDE-DIAPHRAGM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ130333483506QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_987wt_940 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-FJ1100-FJ1200-CARB-SLIDE-DIAPHRAGM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ130333483506QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_987wt_940)
I have heard of folks repairing them with spray silicon rubber, but do not have any details, sorry.
Harvy
I need to check tomorrow, but I think I can supply a brand new set of carbs for $400.00. This will be late model carbs that are fuel pump compatible.
To convert them to gravity, only the fuel inlet needle seat needs to be changed out. When you change them out, use the new o-rings that are in the new carbs.
I will followup in the morning.
Randy - RPM
Allright, thanx for your replies !
Well, i found this on Ebay UK :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Carburettor-Diaphragm-Yamaha-FJ1200-86-9-NEW_W0QQitemZ370267441335QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item5635a8c8b7 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Carburettor-Diaphragm-Yamaha-FJ1200-86-9-NEW_W0QQitemZ370267441335QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item5635a8c8b7)
I had to find some other offerings too, but there were the half of my monthly payment... :nea:
I've never tried this, but...
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/archive/o_t__t_5858__cv-carb-slide-diaphragm-repair-it-works.html (http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/archive/o_t__t_5858__cv-carb-slide-diaphragm-repair-it-works.html)
Someone on one of the other FJ groups used Liquid Electrical Tape or Plasti-Dip (cut 50% with naptha, IIRC) successfully, as well.
YMMV
Randy T
Indy
I have done the liquid electrical tape fix and it works great. Opened my carbs for the first time in about 5 years and the diaphragms still looked good.
I used a q-tip to apply the stuff to the areas that needed it.
Quote from: rktmanfj on October 20, 2009, 07:19:30 AM
I've never tried this, but...
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/archive/o_t__t_5858__cv-carb-slide-diaphragm-repair-it-works.html (http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/archive/o_t__t_5858__cv-carb-slide-diaphragm-repair-it-works.html)
Someone on one of the other FJ groups used Liquid Electrical Tape or Plasti-Dip (cut 50% with naptha, IIRC) successfully, as well.
YMMV
Randy T
Indy
Quote from: rktmanfj on October 20, 2009, 07:19:30 AM
Someone on one of the other FJ groups used Liquid Electrical Tape or Plasti-Dip (cut 50% with naptha, IIRC) successfully, as well.
I was the one who came up with the Liquid Electrical Tape - and it works! I have used it for small holes successfully. I'm not sure how well it would work on tears. As long as the tears are small it should work fine. Every couple years I reapply. If I were you I would give it a try. At least it would work well enough for you to get your bike running and tuned temporarily - very easy to access and change later.
This is the stuff I used:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/1_20_10_09_11_20_53.jpeg)
You can buy it here:
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_39763 (http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_39763)
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 20, 2009, 03:39:39 AM
I need to check tomorrow, but I think I can supply a brand new set of carbs for $400.00. This will be late model carbs that are fuel pump compatible.
To convert them to gravity, only the fuel inlet needle seat needs to be changed out. When you change them out, use the new o-rings that are in the new carbs.
I will followup in the morning.
Randy - RPM
Okay, I can get new carbs for $400.00. These are brand new never have had gasoline in them. Like I said earlier, these can be changed to the gravity feed model bikes with ease. If you have dual inlets, then the carbs would have to be separated and the dual inlets installed.
If you are in need of a new set of carbs for next season, let me know. Who know they might make good Christmas gift...
Thanks, Randy - RPM
Okay, thanx a lot guys. Well, i think i will try this "Liquid Electric Tape" first. If it works not, then ebay.
I am a bit less of money now, so i cannot buy carbs or other expensiver things.
Hungary slowly goes down now. Everybody suffers this "economic crisis".
So, if everything will running good, my little brother will buy my XJ900. Then i can buy carbs or something...
Sorry for the off things.
Thanx again guys ! :bye:
There are 4 new diaphrams on ebay right now with a buy it now of 274 for the set, but at that price a better investment with all new parts are those carbs at 400, if mine are shot, that will be my first big purchase!!
or maybe lectrons or keihins to eliminate the diaphram problem once and for all.
Keep us posted on what you find and come up with.
Good Luck and Welcome also !! :good2:
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 20, 2009, 12:57:40 PM
I can get new carbs for $400.00. These are brand new never have had gasoline in them. Like I said earlier, these can be changed to the gravity feed model bikes with ease. If you have dual inlets, then the carbs would have to be separated and the dual inlets installed.
Hey Randy, have you actually done this retrofit? What do you do.. install the dual inlets, and replace the original center inlet with one of the extra solid crossover tubes? Thanks. I remember this topic from a couple years ago.. and I'm sure Wade remembers it well, too. :scratch_one-s_head:
--- In yamahafj@yahoogroups "Wade Kehner" wrote:
I had a broken float post on a carb and replaced the carb body . I
> was looking at the carb again yesterday and noticed that there is an extra inlet across from where the fuel enters the carb body. It looks like the extra one was bored out. My oringinal carb body had only 1 inlet that went all the way into the carb. Am I missing something?
> Would sealing this extra inlet solve the problem?
--- In yamahafj@yahoogroups.com, "troy_suiter" wrote:
> .. that carb was taken from a fuel-pumped carb bank (actually off a legends car). Instead of having 2 fuel inlets between 1&2 and 3&4, there is only one 1/4" fuel inlet between 2&3 then crossover tubes connect the other carbs together.
> hence the extra fuel inlet on the opposite side of the carb.
Nope,
But I will being doing it right now. I will let you know after I get done. I expect that the crossover tube removed will be the same diameter of the single inlet pipe allowing it to be installed as it's replacement.
I will advise shortly.
Randy - RPM
No problems. When the new set is broken down, one of the aluminum crossover tubes will fit in place of the center inlet fitting. The dual inlet fittings will then go in between the two outer carbs where the crossover tube was located.
As I stated before, the dual inlet system will now feed all four carbs instead of being a supply source for just the two outer carbs.
The brass needle seat will also still need to be change to the gravity acceptable orifice.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 21, 2009, 05:12:11 PM
No problems. one of the aluminum crossover tubes will fit in place of the center inlet fitting. The dual inlet fittings will then go in between the two outer carbs where the crossover tube was located.
:good2: Cool beans, THANKS!
Kookaloooo!
Quote from: Marsh White on October 20, 2009, 11:23:37 AM
Quote from: rktmanfj on October 20, 2009, 07:19:30 AM
Someone on one of the other FJ groups used Liquid Electrical Tape or Plasti-Dip (cut 50% with naptha, IIRC) successfully, as well.
I was the one who came up with the Liquid Electrical Tape - and it works! I have used it for small holes successfully. I'm not sure how well it would work on tears. As long as the tears are small it should work fine. Every couple years I reapply. If I were you I would give it a try. At least it would work well enough for you to get your bike running and tuned temporarily - very easy to access and change later.
This is the stuff I used:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/1_20_10_09_11_20_53.jpeg)
You can buy it here:
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_39763 (http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_39763)
I've seen the same stuff at Home Depot.... I guess I better buy a can next time I see some.
Yesterday i had to order four diaphragms from a bike-breaker here in Hungary. Im waiting those things for tomorrow, so if they arrive i'll report ! :good2:
Hi there,
so i had to get those diaphragms from the breaker.
The results : 2 from the four are cracked, and all the four slides are a different type.
The bottoms of the slides are totally flat.
On my FJ 1200 the bottoms are have curves on them. So now i have to get them back to the breaker. He's buying them back, no problem.
I think i'm going insane guys... :dash2:
Okay, there is another alternative here : a carbs-set from an '1990-er FJ 1200. Here i go again... :bye2:
I will check in guys !
Hey, i just bought a carbs-set from a 3CV. I take it in and a few hours later i will tell you guys whats happened .
:good:
These dont seem too bad
http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/index.htm (http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/index.htm)
Thanx.
Well, i had to replace only the diaphragms in the carbs-set. It works not better. :boredom:
I think it was not the only trouble of my bike.
The engine starts fine. At 1000-1500 rpm it runs fine too without acceleration. But as i give a minimal acceleration, the engine drowns to stop, and bangs.
Sometimes i can run it up to 3-4000 rpm, then it banging too but it runs a bit smoothly.
And sometimes not all the four cylinder runs.
I have no idea...Maybe ignition ?
Quote from: Vilike on January 02, 2010, 09:45:57 AM
I think it was not the only trouble of my bike.
The engine starts fine. At 1000-1500 rpm it runs fine too without acceleration. But as i give a minimal acceleration, the engine drowns to stop, and bangs.
If engine won't rev, the following possible issues come to mind:
1) Fuel starvation.
2) Poor dwell angle. As FJ's don't have points it becomes a coil issue.
3) Plug gap too big.
If by bang you mean backfire then this would again suggest:
4) Overfuelling
5) Ignition missfire
Quote from: Vilike on January 02, 2010, 09:45:57 AM
Sometimes i can run it up to 3-4000 rpm, then it banging too but it runs a bit smoothly.
And sometimes not all the four cylinder runs.
Sometimes is more indicative of electrical problems, the banging and runs smoothly points to:
6) crossfire between ignition leads or
7) faulty coils.
But could also be:
:bomb: sticking valves.
If the choke is off and it doesn't blow black smoke at idle we could likely rule out 4).
If bang is backfire we can rule out 1).
Now check spark plug resistance and gap.
Then check resistance on coil windings.
Run it in the dark and look for sparks jumping everywhere, or get mate to stick his hand on leads whilst reving engine. :rofl2:
If bang is mechanical noise check :bomb:
Hope that helps
Thanx ren-dog ! I will check on your ideas ! :good2:
Okay. I had to change the entire carbs-set on the FJ. But here is a question : On the "new" 3CV carbs set, there is a pipe with a snag beetween the second and third carbs. What is it for ?
On my 1TX FJ, there is no pipe like this. Is this the place for the rubber tube from the tank ???
http://www.imagebam.com/image/6e28ae62315158 (http://www.imagebam.com/image/6e28ae62315158)
(http://7.imagebam.com/dl.php?ID=62315158&sec=ded3fc8b57b35b5dac391ca2f9927ac7)
wait.. isn't that the fuel inlet?
..you're trying to use the carbs from a fuel-pump'd FJ on an FJ that is gravity feed...
read the previous posts in this topic.. Randy explains how to take the carburetors apart and install the correct dual inlet system that your FJ uses.
it never ends :dash1:
Please excuse the noobness, but is there a reason you can't use these (I am surely missing something, no mention of year)?
http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_kit_list_part.php?make=Yamaha&cat=Carb_Slide (http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_kit_list_part.php?make=Yamaha&cat=Carb_Slide)
FJ1100 1100cc FJ1100 (1985) (50H) Carb Slide Diaphragm
FJ1100 (1985) (50H) Carb Slide Diaphragm OEM Quality, Complete Mikuni Slide Assembly replaces OEM#50H-14940-00.
$93.95 USD
FJ1100 1100cc FJ1100 (1984-1985) (47E) Carb Slide Diaphragm
FJ1100 (1984-1985) (47E) Carb Slide Diaphragm OEM Quality, Complete Mikuni Slide Assembly replaces OEM#36Y-14940-00.
$78.00 USD
I seen 3CV mentioned so there are these too:
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Yamaha/FJ_1200_3CV_Type/88-90/picture/Carburettor_Diaphragm/ (http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Yamaha/FJ_1200_3CV_Type/88-90/picture/Carburettor_Diaphragm/)
Yamaha FJ 1200 (3CV Type) 88-90 Carburettor Diaphragm £ 60.14
Quote from: Vilike on January 04, 2010, 05:48:06 AM
Okay. I had to change the entire carbs-set on the FJ. But here is a question : On the "new" 3CV carbs set, there is a pipe with a snag beetween the second and third carbs. What is it for ?
On my 1TX FJ, there is no pipe like this. Is this the place for the rubber tube from the tank ???
Ahhh. I see now.
Your bike has fuelling issues because
the fuel metering is different inside these different model carbs.
The fuel feeds are in different places,
The needle and seats inside the carbs are different,
You will also have to check the float heights
etc, etc, etc.
Do like TRoy says and look for posts on changing carb internals from fuel pump to gravity fed. :drinks:
Quote from: indyblue on January 04, 2010, 03:02:29 PM
Please excuse the noobness, but is there a reason you can't use these (I am surely missing something, no mention of year)?
http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_kit_list_part.php?make=Yamaha&cat=Carb_Slide (http://www.carbkitscapital.com/carb_kit_list_part.php?make=Yamaha&cat=Carb_Slide)
FJ1100 1100cc FJ1100 (1985) (50H) Carb Slide Diaphragm
FJ1100 (1985) (50H) Carb Slide Diaphragm OEM Quality, Complete Mikuni Slide Assembly replaces OEM#50H-14940-00.
$93.95 USD
FJ1100 1100cc FJ1100 (1984-1985) (47E) Carb Slide Diaphragm
FJ1100 (1984-1985) (47E) Carb Slide Diaphragm OEM Quality, Complete Mikuni Slide Assembly replaces OEM#36Y-14940-00.
$78.00 USD
Are these prices for EACH diaphragm????????
If so, then simply contact Randy and pay a mere $400 for a COMPLETE, BRAND NEW SET OF CARBS!!!!
(that's a set of 4 complete carbs!!!!)
DavidR.
Hi guys !
The FJ runs great ! We had to fix the problem with the replacing of the carbs-set.The last trouble was that the 1TX carbs-set has two fuel-inlets, the 3CV set has only one. And we accidentally confused the inlet snags with the overflowing snags. Now the bike has a 3CV carbs-set and runs very smoothly.
Thank you for all your help guys !
:drinks:
Congrats and well done :good2:
betas my idea s .... i sued the thumb out of a rubber glove and some non hardening aviation gasket goo on the carbs of the honda vt500e that i HATED. didnt work to good but was better than the holes.... cut the thumb off slipped it over the carb slide..(round ) and then hel it in place by using the groove around the top of the slide and some fine copper wire... painted the inside with gasket goo and slid back into throttle body, put top on and cut away excess like a pie in a pie tin... never to be opened again..... still wouldnt pull more than 110k's downhill with me tucked down so far it looked like i was being obscene .... and yes it did need a tail wiind, head wind washed off ten kays an hour. hence why i hate honda's.( with the exception of the bol'dor) :sorry:
Thanx Kopfjaeger. It is allready fixed. I had to replace the carbs-set with a 3CV set.