Anyone here ever tried this stuff? :unknown:
http://www.metalrescue.com/home.aspx (http://www.metalrescue.com/home.aspx)
http://www.metalrescue.com/assets/pdf/Motorcyle%20Gas%20Tank-Workshop%20Hero%20White%20Paper.pdf (http://www.metalrescue.com/assets/pdf/Motorcyle%20Gas%20Tank-Workshop%20Hero%20White%20Paper.pdf)
I have a couple of tanks and some other stuff that need cleaning badly, so I'm considering getting a bucket of it.
It sounds like this stuff http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-P1C21.aspx?gclid=CKbE7o3Fx7wCFVQV7AodJ2kALA (http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-P1C21.aspx?gclid=CKbE7o3Fx7wCFVQV7AodJ2kALA)
I have tested a small sample and it works, the rust was gone over night.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 12, 2014, 03:35:33 PM
It sounds like this stuff http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-P1C21.aspx?gclid=CKbE7o3Fx7wCFVQV7AodJ2kALA (http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-P1C21.aspx?gclid=CKbE7o3Fx7wCFVQV7AodJ2kALA)
I have tested a small sample and it works, the rust was gone over night.
Wish there was an easy answer for FJ tanks. I used the same stuff and it works ok for surface rust. Used it in a tank over night, rotating it as often as I could. 2 treatments. It is kind of expensive. I worked on my tank for a solid week. Because of the fuel tank design it is a real pain to get clean.
Started off with white vinegar and lots of bolts, nuts, screws etc shaking and rotating (a lot............ then some more......)
Flushing with water
went through 3 or four treatments like that
more soap and hot water
Removed all the bolts, nuts, etc, etc... It will take some time, some will get jammed down in the lower "wings" of the tank.
Back to the white vinegar overnight. 4 or 5 gallons... a few more times.
More hot water
Then I went to the Evapo-Rust treatment (2 times)
Washed out and dried. (I used a heat gun dry out the inside)
The white vinegar worked surprisingly good. For me the hardest areas of the tank was down in the lower wings (can't see) and on the roof of the tank especially up to the front (can't see). Used flashlights, inspection mirrors etc.... Still hard to inspect. One of those inspection scopes would be nice for that.
That's basically what I did. When done I installed a new petcock with new screen, adapted in a larger fuel filter (Fram G-12 from Walmart). I can send you pictures of how I mounted the filter if you like. I have been running the bike and so far no problems. The new filter is clear so I can inspect it and at 2.99 a piece I can change it often... Media appears to be the same. After a while I might go back to the Yamaha filter. For now I want a clear filter with more media until a feed 5 or 6 tanks fulls of fuel through it.
George
I don't know the number (I'm at the office), but I did manage a while back to find a NAPA filter that is very similar to the OEM one.
I think I will invest in some of the stuff and see how it works out.
Might be a few days before I have time, though.
If it does work, the H2 tank I have will be the real test...
Quote from: not a lib on February 12, 2014, 05:14:48 PM
I don't know the number (I'm at the office), but I did manage a while back to find a NAPA filter that is very similar to the OEM one.
I think I will invest in some of the stuff and see how it works out.
Might be a few days before I have time, though.
If it does work, the H2 tank I have will be the real test...
I used one of these for a plug in the fill tube. I don't remember if it was 1 1/2 or 2 inchs. I took it apart and trimmed the plastic disc down a little to get a tight fit.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Mechanical-Test-Plug-33400/100342630 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Mechanical-Test-Plug-33400/100342630)
Noticed that sometimes things that look like rust in a tank is varnish.
George
To see all the nooks and crannies in the tank, would a borescope be handy?
<running for cover>
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 12, 2014, 06:45:50 PM
To see all the nooks and crannies in the tank, would a borescope be handy?
<running for cover>
wanta borrow a helmet :lol:
George
I didn't check the price on that, but with the slick marketing, how about this:
There was just a thread on KLR650.net about de-rusting tanks, (main discussion forum, Dec. 9th), and I think I'll use either phosphoric acid, (milkstone remover), or the electrolysis. (My wife's '56 Ford truck needs it.)
Both are really cheap, easy, and they say effective. I've also used de-scaler in the past, (another weak acid solution that's used in swamp coolers), with great results. My VW friends also like the POR15 products.
The only negative I've heard is to avoid Kreem tank liner, it apparently isn't working well with ethanol fuels.
I went to my local hardware store and picked up a gallon of the acid solution for what, $12- or so?
For the electrolysis, all you need is a battery charger and some Arm&Hammer washing soda.
:hi:
I have used Rusteco which works well but is pricey. A length of chain is much easier to remove than loose nuts and bolts.
Lots of great info here, but I'm still undecided. :unknown:
I have a gallon (wonder if that's enough) of phosphoric acid, and also everything required to do the electrolysis method. It's a bit cold out ventilate the garage to do the electrolysis right now, though. My other concern about the electrolysis method is getting the anode in a 'line-of-sight' position to every nook and cranny of the fj tank. It'll work great for my CB360 tank and some other odd bits, though!
Quote from: movenon on February 12, 2014, 06:24:51 PM
I used one of these for a plug in the fill tube. I don't remember if it was 1 1/2 or 2 inchs. I took it apart and trimmed the plastic disc down a little to get a tight fit.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Mechanical-Test-Plug-33400/100342630 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Mechanical-Test-Plug-33400/100342630)
Noticed that sometimes things that look like rust in a tank is varnish.
George
Quote from: JMR on February 14, 2014, 06:54:29 AM
I have used Rusteco which works well but is pricey. A length of chain is much easier to remove than loose nuts and bolts.
These are what I used when I did my 87's fuel tank several years ago. As JMR has said, Rusteco isn't cheap, but it will get the rust out without damaging your paint. If I recall correctly, I spent $125 on a 5 gallon bucket, then about $4-$5 on two of the mechanical plugs. I combined the lower disc (w/threaded post) of the 1 1/2" plug with the rubber seal and top disc of the 2" plug. It has been awhile, but the issue I believe I had run into, was that the lower section of the 2" plug wouldn't fit in the neck of the fuel filler port, but the seal of the 1 1/2" plug was too small to seal the filler port. To get it to work, I had to disassemble the plug, and feed the lower section and rubber seal into the port first (without dropping them), then capped them with the 2" top disc and wing-nut. For the bottom of the tank, I was replacing the fuel level sensor and petcock anyway, so I used the old parts during the treatment.
Here are the plugs I used.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Mechanical-Test-Plug-33400/100342630 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Mechanical-Test-Plug-33400/100342630)
(http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/cc/cce19486-6e0c-4915-b604-100b4449458c_1000.jpg)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-2-in-Mechanical-Plastic-Test-Plug-33401/100346775 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-2-in-Mechanical-Plastic-Test-Plug-33401/100346775)
(http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/04/046a491a-d4b6-4cb8-af04-8f77b1911fe4_1000.jpg)
Went out and looked at mine. It is a 1 1/2 inch plug. I found that the plug would not seal up. The plug would suck down until the top disk hit the lip of the tank preventing me from tighting it down more. I took the top disk off and ground the diameter down to 1 11/16 inch. Also took the bottom beveled plate and sanded down the face slightly. All you are after is to get the rubber to expand slightly more in diameter.
I used it a lot with the tank inverted and didn't leak a drop. The tanks paint was perfect so I was real sensitive about not dripping or leaking any chemicals on it.
George
Thanks, guys!
I'll stop by the Home Depot tomorrow on the way back from the Motorcycle Expo. :good2:
Randy, I have had good luck using ZEP brand Calcium lime and rust remover diluted 50/50 with water as a rust dissolver/converter. If there is heavy scale drop in a handful of steel nets to shake around and knock the scale loose.
Let the mix soak in the tank overnight and then chase with a small amount of baking soda in distilled water to rinse and inspect. If you don't get all the rust the first time simple pour the mix back in and try again the next morning...
Once you are sure you got it all rinse with denatured alcohol and dryit out with compressed air.
Phosphoric acid works much faster but can quickly ruin paint. The CLR is far more forgiving.
To plug up the filler and the fuel gauge hole just go to your local pool supply and get a #10 winterizing plug for the filler,and a #6 for the fuel gauge hole. They fit perfectly.
John
PoolPros-Stl
Quote from: the fan on February 14, 2014, 08:13:27 PM
Randy, I have had good luck using ZEP brand Calcium lime and rust remover diluted 50/50 with water as a rust dissolver/converter. If there is heavy scale drop in a handful of steel nets to shake around and knock the scale loose.
Let the mix soak in the tank overnight and then chase with a small amount of baking soda in distilled water to rinse and inspect. If you don't get all the rust the first time simple pour the mix back in and try again the next morning...
Once you are sure you got it all rinse with denatured alcohol and dryit out with compressed air.
Phosphoric acid works much faster but can quickly ruin paint. The CLR is far more forgiving.
Thanks, Bill!
Quote from: craigslist1340 on February 14, 2014, 10:23:02 PM
To plug up the filler and the fuel gauge hole just go to your local pool supply and get a #10 winterizing plug for the filler,and a #6 for the fuel gauge hole. They fit perfectly.
John
PoolPros-Stl
Thanks, John!