Hi folks.
As perhaps some of you might know, it's been a busy couple of months with new employer and all, so i haven't had as much time hanging around here lately :unknown:
Anyway, I have some spare time to focus on the bike, and my god does she need it! :rofl2: Well, not really, but moditus i pretty self-explanatory :wacko3:
I don't have those big mod for this winter, but rather the small ones. Perhaps except for the FZR rearwheel conversion though :scratch_one-s_head:
Schedule mods for this winter:
FZR 17" rear w/brakedisc etc..
New clutch master cylinder
New Speigler clutch line
New rear brakelight switch (the banjobolt type)
New paint (fairing and tank)
New Speigler rear brake line
I have all ready done the light switch, so now my high and low beam are working again, and it looks new again.
Will be trying to do the right hand switch too soon.
I have all my FJ pictures saved on SkyDrive, and motorcycle in a public folder, but for some reason the pictures wont show up here when insert image is used. Anyone know why?
This how the old girl looks like now. Sorry for the bad pictures, my phone was the only thing left with any batterypower :yes:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_08_01_14_12_59_15_3.jpeg)
Here's the new aftermarked fiberglass fairing that i am test fitting, and drilling holes for mounting. It will leave for paint later this week. There is some issue with fitment with the speedometer plasticcover, but i guess that always can be resolved by trimming of the excess plastic parts that interferes.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_08_01_14_12_59_12_2.jpeg)
Here you see the light switch that i fixed. Need re-soldering inside, and of course some wiring issue below as you can see. The best result was using bullet connectors for now, until i can find a suitable connectorblock that i like.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_08_01_14_12_59_09_1.jpeg)
Might not be so hard to see which wheel is new and which is not? And yes I know white rims and dirt is a bad combo! :rofl2:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_08_01_14_12_59_06_0.jpeg)
Okay, this is a link to my public folder on skydrive, containing all my motorcycle pictures... Been asked several times to upload scenic pictures from my rides, and i will try to do that a lot with in the next riding season. Promise :good2:
Check it out, and please let me know if the link doesn't work.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103 (https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103)
How are you going to mount the toilet seat? :crazy: :crazy: Did you get it from Randy?
Quote from: jscgdunn on January 08, 2014, 03:12:20 PM
How are you going to mount the toilet seat? :crazy: :crazy: Did you get it from Randy?
Its the new Corbin seat!! Since Randy don't sell shit, he delivers quality stuff to get it done! :good2:
I was wondering how long it would take before someone mention that toilet seat! By the looks of it, it diden't take long :good2:
I love the front disc brakes!!!! Good call !! :good:
(http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u517/photocandman/mywheels096.jpg)
Can't go wrong with them! :good2:
Quote from: CanDman on January 08, 2014, 04:04:14 PM
I love the front disc brakes!!!! Good call !! :good:
(http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u517/photocandman/mywheels096.jpg)
That is just beautiful. Well done!!! :good:
CraigO
Well, went to my painter guy to day to deliver the last parts. (fairing and sidescoops)
As you can see of the rest of the pictures, he has allready started working on the other parts :good2:
I had to go with the old plastic scoops instead of the fiberglass that came with the fairing. The only reason for that was actually the fitment. The old scoops did fit better then the new ones :pardon:
Anyway... just a couple of weeks now for its ready :good2:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_10_01_14_1_06_36_9.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_10_01_14_1_06_32_8.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_10_01_14_1_06_28_7.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_10_01_14_1_06_24_6.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_10_01_14_1_06_21_5.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_10_01_14_1_06_17_4.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_10_01_14_1_06_10_2.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_10_01_14_1_06_07_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_10_01_14_1_06_03_0.jpeg)
You have some good works going on there. I just wanted to thank you for posting the link to the photos. I'm going to need to see a few of them when I re-assemble my bike. I caused a big problem for myself when I had a divided tray, that I was sorting my hardware in as I dis-assembled my bike, on top of a trash barrel. The tray was half full of hardware when I tipped it over onto the floor. :mad: I didn't take near enough pics to overcome this. Your pics will help alot.
My son and I are painting my engine and frames tomorrow so the re-assembling process will begin soon.
Thanks.
Yes sharing those pictures is very usefull. I to have had much help by looking at pictures posted by other members.
Not only do you see how the projects of others progress, it might also give you the help or idea for your own. Not to mention help with ideas on how to tackle various issues one experience with tinkering on this old bikes.
I will keep feed the link with photos as fast as I get them :-)
Will soon be posting clutch line change and clutch master cylinder change... :good2:
Today my new clutchline arrived in the post!!
The clutch line is now matching the color on my brake lines... :good: If i only were able to get a speedometer cable in the same color too.... :dash2:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_15_01_14_12_39_20_0.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_15_01_14_12_39_24_1.jpeg)
And heres my solution to my faulty rear brake switch.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_15_01_14_12_39_28_2.jpeg)
Yesterday my machined sprocket carrier and brake torque arm arrived from UK, and will be ready to fitted soon!
Will try to post pictures later on..
Cheers
Ken
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_15_01_14_1_22_35_6.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_15_01_14_1_22_32_5.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_15_01_14_1_22_28_4.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_15_01_14_1_22_24_3.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_15_01_14_1_22_20_2.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_15_01_14_1_22_17_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_15_01_14_1_22_14_0.jpeg)
Oh, and finally, the winter decided to show up!! :good2:
Quote from: keand3 on January 15, 2014, 12:45:00 PMToday my new clutchline arrived in the post!! The clutch line is now matching the color on my brake lines... :good: If i only were able to get a speedometer cable in the same color too.... :dash2:
Cheers
Ken
Ken,
The electronics crew uses plastic heat-shrink sleeving to protect electric wire bundles. Electronics parts supply shops should have it in stock, by the meter. This sleeving comes in all sizes, and many colors. I would hope that you can find the right color (or at least close enough in color) to match your hydraulic lines. This color sleeving can get dirty, so you may also wish to install a clear (transparent) second sleeve over the first. The clear sleeving will be be much easier to keep clean. Make up a few test pieces, with and without the clear sleeving, to see the results. This sleeving shrinks to fit by applying heat, using a hot-air gun. A hair dryer may do the trick, there. Most heat-shrink sleeving will shrink to either 50% or 75% of the original size. The electronics parts shops may have both types.
Cheers,
Red
Red, Thanks a lot!! :good2:
This was just the kind of solution i was looking for!
I will defently look into this.. My guess is that its probably easier and cheaper for me to find this online or on eBay.
But thanks again, for the tip :good:
Cheers
Ken
Some heat-shrink tube will only reduce by 40% while others as much as 75%, it should be in the specification how much. measure the diameter of the speedo cable, and the smallest collar the shrink tube needs to go over. Then check what initial diameter the tube comes in, you can then determine how much reduction % you need. Watch out for the stuff that has thermal glue on the inside. It makes for really good sealed wires and terminations, but if you need to remove it, :dash2: :dash2: :dash2:
No removment, but replacement :wacko2:
Hey Mark, would the angle on the CBR mirror be acceptable if i manage to use the mounting plates the came with? Those mirror adapters turned out to be too expensive to fabricate here locally apparently. Thought i go for the cbr mirror mode with intergrated turnsignal.
Quote from: keand3 on January 15, 2014, 02:49:36 PM
No removment, but replacement :wacko2:
Hey Mark, would the angle on the CBR mirror be acceptable if i manage to use the mounting plates the came with? Those mirror adapters turned out to be too expensive to fabricate here locally apparently. Thought i go for the cbr mirror mode with intergrated turnsignal.
I might know where a set of my custom wedge plates might be found. Let me send off a PM and see what happens.
Thanks Mark :good2:
About bloody time!! :diablo:
Finally winter is here :good2:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_17_01_14_3_46_41.jpeg)
Just got this pictures sent over from the painter on my phone..
I think it will look really good when it get some decals on and clearcoat.
Unfortunately i have left the ambulance color for the bike, and expect a visit from the Red Power Ranger to whoop some sense into me :good2:
But not to worry. Spare parts are constantly added so i will soon have enough fairing parts for a second complete set. :pardon:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_19_01_14_3_05_49.jpeg)
Quote from: keand3 on January 19, 2014, 03:15:20 AM
Just got this pictures sent over from the painter on my phone..
I think it will look really good when it get some decals on and clearcoat.
Unfortunately i have left the ambulance color for the bike, and expect a visit from the Red Power Ranger to whoop some sense into me :good2:
But not to worry. Spare parts are constantly added so i will soon have enough fairing parts for a second complete set. :pardon:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_19_01_14_3_05_49.jpeg)
Nice paint job and I like the color. Can't wait to see the decals that you are using. Love that color Ken !
George
There is no right or wrong color. Very nice paint. Enjoy the task of picking them up. When you get home the smell of fresh paint will fill the whole garage!!!
George, as of now I only have the oem fj1200 decals. But haven't decided if I only want to go with standard fj decals or add some newer ones or other marks. Looking at a clean simple fish so that the paint is in focus and not the decals. Going No decals would seem to monotone i think. We'll see
:good2:
I think RPM deserves a spot never the less , if i only can find those stickers again :scratch_one-s_head:
Fj johnnie, yes the smell of fresh paint is addictive :good:
Hey Ken, no ass whipping from the Monkey today. You can have any color you want, its your FJ. I will be waiting to see how it turns out, just don't bugger it up!!!! :shok:
Then i will have to whoop my self some. You see i do think the ambulance color is superior, and is the theme that fits the bike best, IMO :good2:
But it would be increased expens going with 3 color so my budget had to settle for one. :dash1:
Anyway I think it's a awesome color.
The blue looks awesome. Can't wait to see the finished product. You mentioned that you have a set of decals. What color set are you going to use?
My 87' came Monotone black when I purchased it. I agree with you, needed some color added. I went with the OEM Gold/Silver 89' decals. This is the set I ordered.
http://www.diablocycle.com/FJ1200-1989-Complete-Decal-Set.html (http://www.diablocycle.com/FJ1200-1989-Complete-Decal-Set.html)
The only thing I was not thrilled with, was the FJ is a bit larger than OEM.
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on January 19, 2014, 10:54:29 AM
The blue looks awesome. Can't wait to see the finished product. You mentioned that you have a set of decals. What color set are you going to use?
My 87' came Monotone black when I purchased it. I agree with you, needed some color added. I went with the OEM Gold/Silver 89' decals. This is the set I ordered.
http://www.diablocycle.com/FJ1200-1989-Complete-Decal-Set.html (http://www.diablocycle.com/FJ1200-1989-Complete-Decal-Set.html)
The only thing I was not thrilled with, was the FJ is a bit larger than OEM.
Fred
Well, the color of the decals is black. At least the last set I ordered. I had one set i ordered last year, but i have misplaced it somewhere and can't find it. That was with the red and black colors for teh 86.
I thought i might go for silver decals, but since the paint is allready very shiny, i don't think they will match up.
Black would perhaps give it the darker heavy tone that it needs to "break" off the bright blue color.
The color is by the way named "Interlagos Blue" and is a color option found on a lot of BMW's M5 and M3's.
Cheers
Ken
Went to the paint shop today and attached the decals to the fairing.
Unfortunately i forgot my phone and weren't able to take any pics so i will try to explain instead.
The belly pan will just have letters spelled Yamaha on both sides.
On the tank i choose to have the word Yamaha followed by their logo.
Side panels will state FJ1200, all decals are black.
Will post pictures on Thursday i guess. They should be finished by then. Other then that my rim got itself some new bearings and brake disc :good2:
Cheers
Ken
Ken,
Your paint pics look great..be great to see the finished product.
Jeff
I can't wait to see how it looks. I will save your seat at the Ambulance Drivers secrete clubhouse in case you change your colors back.
Great looking mods. :good2: Paints awsome! Grabbed five pics from your gallery. I'll be starting to assemble soon.
Quote from: jscgdunn on January 21, 2014, 03:48:19 PM
Ken,
Your paint pics look great..be great to see the finished product.
Jeff
Jeff, yes I must say I', pretty happy with the result. Hopefully i didn't screw it up with the decals yesterday. :unknown: I am most concern for the tank and how it will end up looking with the decals... :scratch_one-s_head:
I did not put any on the main fairing, for now. Will waite and see how it turns out. Isn't that much work attaching new decals, and a layer of clearcoat. :good2:
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 21, 2014, 03:49:04 PM
I can't wait to see how it looks. I will save your seat at the Ambulance Drivers secrete clubhouse in case you change your colors back.
Mark, once a ambulance driver always a ambulance driver :dance:
As I have said earlier, I will have a second fairing with the "propper" color, so you just go ahead and hold off that seat in that clubhouse :good2: Will there be beer?
Joe,
Glad some of my pictures will help you. Post pictures of your assemble :good2:
Cheers
Ken
Now we know why Ken can afford new paint:
http://business.time.com/2014/01/10/every-norwegian-is-now-a-millionaire-kind-of/ (http://business.time.com/2014/01/10/every-norwegian-is-now-a-millionaire-kind-of/)
Hehe.... If you have seen some of the roads we got up here, you will know where they saved the money :biggrin:
I manage to snap a photo on the go to day, will try to take some more pictures later today or tomorrow. Will for sure take a lot when putting the fairing back on
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_23_01_14_10_15_18.jpeg)
Looking good Ken....
Been searching the forum but can't seem to find find it.
I need to know the measurements for the fuel line for the 86 fj1200 with vacuum petcock.
Remember reading a thread were this was covered, and that the vacuum pumps need a wider inner diameter on the tubing than the powered one's .
Thought I'll replace those lines before i put the tank back on.
Found a thread where 10 mm were mentioned. But unclear if that was inner or outer diameter...
10MM is the ID for the fuel line.
Thanks :good2:
Love that shade of blue :good2:
Okay, started to put her back together today.
So far all the parts are attached to the bike except from the main fairing and belly pan. (Was to feckkin cold)
Before I put the main fairing back on, i need to do some wiring etc. I also need to figure out how i want my new turn signals.
I have been thinking of doing the CBR mod with intergated turnsignals
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380737038187?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/380737038187?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)
Although, they are LED and i would need a resistor for them but i don't know which one. There are literally thousands of them..
Quote from: keand3 on January 24, 2014, 08:55:44 AM
I have been thinking of doing the CBR mod with intergated turnsignals
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380737038187?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/380737038187?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)
Great idea! Stock blinkers don't look that good IMHO. If these are available as a Honda OEM part, I would advise to get those. I can't tell if the one's you've listed on ebay are OEM or aftermarket. I've had 4 different mirror sets on my FJ. The OEM Hondas that are fitted now are much better than any of the aftermarket I tried. If you're just after looks, I guess it doesn't matter, but if you want to see what's behind you and actually be able tell what you're looking at-- go with the OEM Honda, you won't be sorry.
Well i do change them in order to be able to see past my shoulder so i all ready have Honda mirrors. :good2:
Theese cbr mirrors is aftermarket i guess, but not the cheap replacement as far as i can see. They are made to replace the oem ones. Though slightly different design with integrated turnsignal
You're right. I looked and integrated turn lights don't appear to be available on OEM 's. Those that you posted will look great! Post some pics if you go with it.
Hopefully they will work out great too...
Won't know for sure until i try them.:-)
Quote from: keand3 on January 24, 2014, 11:28:48 AM
Hopefully they will work out great too...
Won't know for sure until i try them.:-)
R&D for FJ mods is a very noble cause. :good2:
Okay, have been taken some photos again but still i used my phone. Sorry for that! :pardon:
It's so fekken cold outside so I don't dare taking my good camera out just yet. Will wait until I'm ready with the electrical stuff and everything can mount back on.
How is it with access for the mounting the rear brake caliper after the wheel is assambled? I need to service my caliper, but i would like to get the new rear wheel back on asap. Do I need to get the caliper on first?
For those of you that have read my other threads on various issues and so on, know that i had a issues with my high/low beam switch.
I did figure it out, and as you probably see of the pictures, not only did i fix the handlebar switch itself, but also needed to do some wiring as well since all the wiring going into the OEM harness is all new.
The solution at the time was a simple bullet connectors on each wire after the blue 12wire connector block (thinks it's 12??). And this works perfectly, until i started rearrange them to make room and prepare for the main fairing. :good2:
But this F$"#"&" cold have made every F&/"%" wire so stiff, that they allmost brake in half just by touching them.. :dash2: Makes it impossible to work with... Heating them or the garage would take ages so that's not an option..
The wires them self is quite thin and I might have to see if replacing them with some smaller bullet connectors is possible or wise. Some just slipped right out the clamp. The ones currently fitted it designed for 0,5mm to 1,0mm wires so they aren't that big either... Poor workmanship perhaps? :scratch_one-s_head:
Okay, hers a picture of those bullet connectors. The most ideal thing would be to replace the hole blue connector box, but there aren't any 12 way on eBay that i can find... Perhaps some one here knows of any good ones?
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_25_01_14_6_09_27_0.jpeg)
It's starting to take shap now. Will mount the new rear wheel soon as well. Have it laying in the backround
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_25_01_14_6_09_30_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_25_01_14_6_09_33_2.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_25_01_14_6_09_36_3.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_25_01_14_6_09_39_4.jpeg)
Quote from: keand3 on January 25, 2014, 06:19:55 AMThe solution at the time was a simple bullet connectors on each wire after the blue 12wire connector block (thinks it's 12??). And this works perfectly, until i started rearrange them to make room and prepare for the main fairing.
Okay, hers a picture of those bullet connectors. The most ideal thing would be to replace the hole blue connector box, but there aren't any 12 way on eBay that i can find... Perhaps some one here knows of any good ones?
Keand3,
If a wire slips out, it may be too thin. Twist the bare wire into a smooth pin-shape, fold the bare wire back in half, and install this "thicker" wire into the connector. Try this trick with some test pieces, first, and if it works for you, then you can do this trick on the bike.
I would not hesitate to replace one 12-pin connector with two 6-pin connectors, if that is possible. Just be sure to make a good diagram of the two connectors, with a list of which pins/wires went into each connector. Keep this connector/pin diagram forever, with your bike's technical information. You might want to make the wires shorter for one 6-pin connector, so the two connectors will install one-after-the-other, rather than side-by-side on the bike.
I would bet that one of these guys (linked below) will be able to supply a new 12-pin connector for you. Write up an email to send to them, giving them the dimensions of the connector, and the pins, and include a picture or two of the connector/pins. Send a copy of this email to each supplier on the list.
http://vintageconnections.com/ (http://vintageconnections.com/)
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html (http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html)
http://www.electrosport.com/accessories/connectors-and-wiring.html (http://www.electrosport.com/accessories/connectors-and-wiring.html)
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html)
If it's too cold for the wiring job now, save that work for warmer weather. Damaged insulation can be a nightmare to find and fix, later.
Best wishes.
Red
Thanks for the tip Red! :good2:
Yes, i have also considered 2 x 6pin connectors. It really doesen't matter i guess. The main thing is to have the wires in a proper connector box, so it all fits well... :good:
Have been to some of those sites you mention, but wil revisit them (regardig 2x6pin :-)
Yes, damaged insulation is a pain in the butt.. Been there there a couple of times allready. I usally just replace the whole wire instead of trying to fix it... Never know when those old wires decides to break :nea:
Cheers
Ken
Need a new rear wheel axle...
Got the FZR wheel mounted today and it looks really nice :good2: But i wasn't able to torque the nut to spec... The axle head has taken some beating over the past 28 years, and keeps on slipping so it will replace it.
Just another thing to ad to the shopping list I guess... (Guess one isn't suppose to see the end of that list?)
Ken
love that colour
Ken, keep it coming, your love for your FJ is showing. I would love to be near by and watch your project first hand. And have a beer or two. :drinks:
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 26, 2014, 12:54:49 PM
Ken, keep it coming, your love for your FJ is showing. I would love to be near by and watch your project first hand. And have a beer or two. :drinks:
Well, me been working in the airline industry for over a decade, might consider California - Norway as near by... :rofl2: Old habit with cheap tickets I guess :biggrin:
New employer have non benefits like that, what so ever... unfortunately :dash2: But the do pay me to take more education... Not many employers left who does that. With out it, my FJ wouldn't been treated as good as she has up until now.
Mark, the pictures will come flying soon i hope.. :drinks: One can't say no to FJ porn.... Specially when it's home in your own garage :sarcastic:
New rear wheel axle, pictures will be taken with the new rim :good2:
Belly pan
Front fender
Wiring, so i may get the main fairing on
Main fairing
My second CBR mirror mod, but this time with integrated turnsignals. (includes resistors for the LED's)
Rebuild of rear brake caliper, plus new bolts for front and back calipers.
New chain
++++++
I might also take some video footage, how would folks react to that? Yes or no?
Cheers
Ken
The color is beautiful. Around here, we would call your motorcycle a "sleeper". Nothing negative at all. Good, very good to be a sleeper. If you and a red bike pulled up together at a stop light and the cops were watching the intersection, They would be looking at the red bike. Blue is a mellow, quieting color that sets people calm. You could be speeding and a cop, if they did'nt have the radar on, would think you were not.
Where as a red bike, if you were not speeding, the cop would think you were. I had a 1100 suzuki new and red and a friend I worked with liked my bike so much he went down and bought the same model in blue. We would ride together at lunch hour and some times after work. Time after time, It was me they were looking at. Been pulled over for going a little over the speed limit just so they could chech me out and never bothered my buddy at all. It's good to be a sleeper!
Can you see your bike with a metalcast blue engine. Oh... ya! :blum1: You see the vision now, don't you. :wacko2:
That's what happened to me. I saw the red! :wacko3:
Quote from: Joe Sull on January 27, 2014, 05:27:57 PM
Can you see your bike with a metalcast blue engine. Oh... ya! :blum1: You see the vision now, don't you. :wacko2:
That's what happened to me. I saw the red! :wacko3:
Don't get me started :dash2:
To late... Allready in my head
Veeerrryyyy nice Ken, what a beautiful blue. The black decals suit it well.
Quote from: X-Ray on January 29, 2014, 07:54:15 AM
Veeerrryyyy nice Ken, what a beautiful blue. The black decals suit it well.
Thanks. I think so too :good2:
A week a way from home i finally have a day off. Though i mount the new givi tank lock, fill her up and start her...
Well since i had issues mounting it last time, i thought ill test screw them first. The two first one went easy. Probably paint residue that made the tank threads tight.
Trying the third and last one, it got stuck and the allen head got rounded... Givi obviuslly dont send screws of the hard stuff, its so incradible soft so that a warny to you guys :yes:
Tried every handtool i have, no luck getting it out. So i figured it was time for the "easy way out". Only to find out at the moment the tool gets a hold of the screw that my drill was out of juice!! Damn it.. Well, what seemed to be a easy job mow takes houres, just to wait until the drill has enugh juice again..
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_01_02_14_4_46_34.jpeg)
Nice. Very nice.
Looks like you could grab a hold of it with some vice grip pliers. If you can, that may be
A quick solution. I think I would chase the threads with a tap after you remove the stripped
Bolt.
You could slot the head if you a Dremal like tool. But it does look like you can just spin it off with locking pliers.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 01, 2014, 11:10:56 AM
You could slot the head if you a Dremal like tool. But it does look like you can just spin it off with locking pliers.
I ended up cutting the head off. I then used a big locking plier to spin it out. Couldn't get a good grip with that head on.
Luckely i had two tank lock set, so i had spare screws so i was able to get the lockring mounted. But this time around i did not force bolt. I just twisted it back and forth until freely would screw itself down.. :good2:
I do love my new tank bag, its just awesome..
Anyway, the most important thing is that i was able to start her :dance2:
She didn't fire right up at first though. No wonder needed to give the battery some juice and crank it so the petrol would get circulated again... After that she fired right up :good2:
Kinda surrealistic, starting your motorcycle in the garage with 60cm of snow outside...
More pictures to come.
That must good to know the bike is running again. I hope mine starts
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 01, 2014, 03:56:20 PM
That must good to know the bike is running again. I hope mine starts
Yes, I regularly fire her up and let her run until shes good and worm. :smile: Emptying the fuelttank and carbs for fuel etc, and do all the propper work that's needed to be done, or following the storage procedure of the manual is to much work for me.. For me firing her up in when its cold works much better. A lot more fun too :good2:
Allthough I know the big girl isn't so fond of idling too long...
Cheers
Ken
Okay, so i spent some hours in the garage tonight... The wife had the house filed with her friends. Boy did i need those hours..
I noticed immediately a smell of gas.. But could not see any leaks. I did move the bike to a better spot and started test fit the new painted fairing. It looks awesome by the way.
I needed to drill out the holes for the windscreen some more but thats about it. Some how i have misplaced my package of fairing bolts and rubber grommits to go with them so i didn't want to mount it. Lucky call i guess.
On the floor there is a noticeable fuel stain, and i traced it back to the fuel tank. It had been dripping down on the carb and airfilter, and a small lake had garherd underneath on the rubbershild.
U thought dammit, now i have to buy a new petcock. Luckily it turned out to be one of the petcock bolts that were loose. Could not see any more leaks after it was tightened.
I don't know how, but the glue holding my heat shield underneath the tank had start dissolving! I could without ease just peel the hole thing straight of. Might be the fumes from the fuel that cause it?
Anyway, it gave me the opportunity to check the fuel line, and i need to replace the main line from the petcock and down to the splitter..
Anyone know the dimensions on the rubber line that feeds tbe vacuum line to the petcock?
Cheers
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_20_02_14_3_13_24_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_20_02_14_3_13_21_0.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_20_02_14_3_13_27_2.jpeg)
I measured mine off my 85 and it's 24.7 cm long and it looks like 5mm id.
I don't see any safety wire on that petcock!
Good call on the safety wire! I was gonna mention it but you posted first. Ken, the fuel hose diameter is 10MM, 3/8" auto fuel line is 9.5MM and that is what I use. The tube wall is thicker but it fits and routs well enough, but you need to use larger clamps where you use the 3/8" hose.
Good call, there isn't a safty wire in it. :good2: I removed it when i cleaned up the mess. Don't worry, i will reattach a new one when i put her back together. :dance2:
Thanks for the dimensions. Will replace the hoses as soon as i get a hold of the right sizes.
Cheers
Have encountered a issue with my fzr rear wheel mod.
I was mounting the new back wheel and everything looked great, until i where about to change the pads.
As you can see of the pictures, the caliper is close, way to close to the brake disc itself. Its almost metall against metall.
I did fasten the rear axle some more i got slightly more room. After i aligned the chain and wheel i have got a few more mm of Clarence. But im not quite happy with it yet. Anyone who have experienced something similar?
I bought the parts pre machineed from Doc at the uk fj club, and the parts seem to bee correctly machined.. Have sent him photos some days back but he haven't replied me yet.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_25_02_14_9_55_22_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_25_02_14_9_55_18_0.jpeg)
Are you using the correct collar or spacer for the wheel? Is it in the right way round? Just a thought.
That's no good. Too much of a offset. A little is ok but that's too much.
I can't see from the pictures, but can you put some spacer washers in to center the caliper?
I needed to do that with the YZF1000 (TAce) conversion on my bikes.
Quote from: FJ111200 on February 25, 2014, 10:54:42 AM
Are you using the correct collar or spacer for the wheel? Is it in the right way round? Just a thought.
Yes, the collars also came in the package. Don't remember the sizes but the biggest one is in the brake disc side, between the rim and torque arm.
Pat, so your saying i should add one more spacer on the right side?
Cheers
Where the caliper bolts to the mount arm, 2 bolts, can you put washers between the caliper and mount?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 25, 2014, 11:37:55 AM
Where the caliper bolts to the mount arm, 2 bolts, can you put washers between the caliper and mount?
No, that would move the Caliper closer to the wheel and close up the gap i already have. I need to have it moved further away from the wheel to have the disc sentered in the caliper.
The photos are taken from behind the bike and Caliper.
I still have my OEM collars somewhere and that is somewhat thicker then the one that came with the package. I might try to see if that helps.
Gotcha, then you have to move the mount arm by shaving the outside and add spacers on the inside.
Or...shaving the caliper to move the center line closer to the rotor.
Hmm...
Shaving the outside... Damn it, then i need to send the part away to have it done, I don't have the equipment to do it my self. (Or the know how either)
I bought it because it was suppose to be a "bolt on" package... Clearly I was misstaken.. :dash2:
Then I need to have the a collar made up with is the exact same in thickens as what i shave of the mount arm, right?
The weird part is, that in the opposite side of the caliper, the offset is fine.. But the disc i straight, I just checked... :scratch_one-s_head:
Can you space the rotor out?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 25, 2014, 12:29:05 PM
Can you space the rotor out?
Perhaps, but then as it turns around its even futher out, and his the metall on the caliper.
Doc writes in his 17" FZR write up:
On the Disc side you will need to have the brake torque arm bracket reduced on to the swingarm side by 12mm, this will make the total width 20mm. The spacer between the torque arm bracket and the wheel will need to be 12mm (standard is 13mm) again 20mm inner diameter and outside same diameter as OE spacer (seals are different between models so spacer has different outside diameter.)The spacer that came along is just 1mm thiner, and is not enugh to make the disk that off track.. Might it be the caliper itself not staight?
Here's a long shot, have you got a spare left hand front 1TX or 36Y brake caliper?
If you have just try that in the place of the rear caliper you've got. It will fit, I used one for a rear on my FJ.
As I say, it's a long shot.
Hmm... I think I have one, but not sure if it's left or right side.. When I upgraded the forks, oone of the bolts were impossible to get of so i sold the fork with the caliper on...
I will try looking for it and see if it fits. Long shots have saved me before, so fingers crossed :-)
Ken, I may have the answer for you. I can remember clearly thinking about 6mths or more ago that this was going to be a problem with the parts you were gathering. I just can't recall what it was.
I will have a look back through the posts when I get home tonight. Hopefully it will shed some light.
Noel
Thanks Noel. :good2:
Something to shed some light would be nice :good2:
Ken
Ken, is the disc sitting on top of these lugs or around the outside of them?
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5544/12784740894_992a2509df_c.jpg)
Noel
Ken, does you FZR wheel have a number stamped on it, something like 4JH, on one of the spokes?
Noel
Ken, does your rear caliper bracket look like this?
(swingarm side)
(http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab154/firehawk068/FJ1200%20Wheel%20Project/CIMG4313.jpg) (http://s859.photobucket.com/user/firehawk068/media/FJ1200%20Wheel%20Project/CIMG4313.jpg.html)
If it doesn't, you need to have it machined so that it moves the caliper closer to the swingarm (away from the wheel)
I checked back in my notes, and I had 10mm removed from the flywheel side.............(from the stock brake caliper bracket)
I also had 7mm removed from the cushdrive, and the collar between the cushdrive bearing and the wheel bearing.....
(http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab154/firehawk068/FJ1200%20Wheel%20Project/CIMG4309.jpg) (http://s859.photobucket.com/user/firehawk068/media/FJ1200%20Wheel%20Project/CIMG4309.jpg.html)
This is my caliper/rotor spacing
(http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab154/firehawk068/Maintainence/Rear%20Brake%20Pads%2008-24-13/P8240014_zps5517820a.jpg) (http://s859.photobucket.com/user/firehawk068/media/Maintainence/Rear%20Brake%20Pads%2008-24-13/P8240014_zps5517820a.jpg.html)
(http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab154/firehawk068/Maintainence/Rear%20Brake%20Pads%2008-24-13/P8240004_zps1684f680.jpg) (http://s859.photobucket.com/user/firehawk068/media/Maintainence/Rear%20Brake%20Pads%2008-24-13/P8240004_zps1684f680.jpg.html)
I used a FZR1000 Exup wheel 17x5.5
Hope you get it sorted out.
PS: By the way, your FJ is looking good so far! :good:
Noel, there wasn't any pictures in you post, so i can't really answer you. But i think they sit on top. Week have to check tonight after work.
I think i have access to photo of my run on my phone, I'll check for that number.
Yes, my caliper bracket is machined and also the cushdrive is machined. The collars is also in the right dimension.
Might be a stupid question, but could you explain what flywheel is? Its a term in unfamiliar with :pardon:
Cheers
Ken
Noel, i couldn't see from that picture if the rim had that number stamped on. Will check tonight. If you look at the bottom picture from Firehawk068 and see how his disc is mounted that's how mine is too. :-)
Firehawk068 (don't know your real name)
It looks to me that you have roughly the same amount of clearance from disc to the outside of the caliper as i do..
My wheel spins just fine, well, it has some resistance but that's due to the newly installed ebc pads.. :-)
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on February 25, 2014, 11:55:41 PM
Noel, there wasn't any pictures in you post, so i can't really answer you. But i think they sit on top.
Cheers
Ken
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5544/12784740894_992a2509df_c.jpg)
The reason I asked is that the amount the disc appears to be too far out is about the same depth as those lugs and while I haven't had time to look anything up I seem to recall something about the disc you ordered at the time.
What model wheel is the disc for?
Noel
I think it's for the the 91 model..
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on February 26, 2014, 03:02:24 AM
I think it's for the the 91 model..
Ken
OK, now it has come back to me. From what I recall you have an unidentified FZR rim -there were a number of models, all with different rotors - and I think you bought an FJ disc (?) I'm no model expert but I can think of three FZR's that I know all have different rotors and 2 of those 3 will not fit an FJ disc. Don't know about the 3rd one.
In my case there was a model within a model (FZR600) and they were only sold on certain continents under different names. Took a while and a couple of wrong orders to figure that one out.
What I am asking is, does the disc sit where it should on the hub?
The amount the rotor appears to be off centre is about the same as the depth of those lugs.
Is the disc sitting around the outside of them or on top of them.
Presumeably, if you bought the "kit" from UK FJ, that should not be the problem.
Anyway, eliminate the easy stuff first and make sure it's sitting where it should.
If that's not it we can delve a little deeper with some better photos.
Noel
I think you might be on to something there Noel.
I had to look up the rim i bought on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360718049473?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D360718049473%26_rdc%3D1 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360718049473?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D360718049473%26_rdc%3D1)
I will try to take some bettet pictures to night. Will use a propper camera and not the phone :-)
I go by memory now, but i recal the disc sitting correctly on the hub, it sits/ go around those lugs.
Ken
Noel, I made some progress to night. But first, my rim didn't have 4JH inprited on the spoke, mine was labeled with R-62
I have been talking to Doc in the UK, and its fairly common with some offset. He suggested the easiest thing to try first (which i did), and that was to replace the collar/spacer on the right/disc side with the OEM spacer.
The OEM spacer is 13mm thick, and the machined one is 12mm. The 1mm seems to have fixed it.
Well, when I say fixed it, I don't mean its centered and all is perfect but the offset is reduced to and within tolerance for what I would drive with.
Take a look at my shared and public folder with pictures. If you scroll all the way down to the bottom you'll see the last photos taken today. There you will see the new clearance and in print on the rim.
My OneDrive folder (https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103)
I will try to acquire a let front side OEM caliper to see it that would make any difference...
BTW, if a front caliper is possible to mount on the rearwheel, would the bluedot caliper bolt straight on to, as it does on the front??
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on February 25, 2014, 11:55:41 PM
Might be a stupid question, but could you explain what flywheel is? Its a term in unfamiliar with :pardon:
Cheers
Ken
Mt Bad! :flag_of_truce:
I meant to say "Swingarm Side". Sorry for the confusion............
And yes, my rotor is slightly offset to the right inside the caliper, but it is not close enough to touch anything, and there is plenty of room for a brand-new pad inside there, so it won't affect anything............
That's good. Mine to is like that so hopefully everything roles smoothly as soon as the f#$&$ winter is over.
Taking of and on the rear wheel is a pain, but on the bright side is that i mess up my white rim... And that means cleaning :yahoo: :yahoo:
And while i was at it i had to do the front a well :good2:
I probably had mine on and off about 5 or 6 times fitting everything in just right............................
when everything is spaced correctly, it should just slip in with barely any force........If I remember correctly, I used the stock FJ wheel/cushdrive spacers.
Sounds like you got it under control now Keand. You'll be ready for spring early? When does the winter start drawing back up your way?
Yes, everything just slide in now :smile:
Joe, the last winter we got an early spring, in March already. But its not uncommen for winter and snow to a be laying well into April. But this winter had been pretty mild, so allot of the snow has gone in just a few days, but is keeps freezing during the night. So hopefully one could start riding by the end of April :good2:
Cheers
Ken
WELL! Winter will just not die here :ireful:. The odd thing is that the ocean water temp didn't get below 34* f. The air has been colder that it's been in 20 years but the water temp has been relatively warm. Back in 91 I was diving for sea urchins and it was a little colder than this year but the water temp was 28* f. The ocean froze out to and island 7 miles away. Coast guard ice breakers came thru the thoroughfare and made it so we could get out. We dove drysuits and full face mask. The water was ice crystals, the only thing keeping it from freezing was the current and tide.
The thing is that it's to late in the season to be 0 every night and there calling for the same for the next 10 days.
It is a very long, cold winter for us here:
http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/canada/alberta/calgary (http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/canada/alberta/calgary)
- 30 in March? Have not heard about global warming for a while. :good:
Quote from: jscgdunn on February 27, 2014, 05:31:59 PM
It is a very long, cold winter for us here:
http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/canada/alberta/calgary (http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/canada/alberta/calgary)
- 30 in March? Have not heard about global warming for a while. :good:
Thats what our forcast looked like in 91. I bet that common for you but not this late in the season?
You guys should have come over for the Australian FJ Rally.
The forecast for the next week is high 20s to low 30s in/around Jindabyne.
Hope we don't get too much rain there as well.
Australia here i come! :good2:
Back to my recent fuelleak..
I can't for the life of me, track down any fuelline locally that has an ID of 10mm.I'm only able to find 9mm.
That should work right? That dimension can have alot more fuel running through it, then what the carbs need if i have calculated correctly.
Cheers
Ken
Ken, the 9mm hose should work without any problems. The main thing is to route it correctly. Make sure that when you fit the tank that the hose is not crimped at all. Even a slight crimp will shut the fuel off once it's subjected to heat from the engine. Don't ask how I know. Fuel line routing is "CRITICAL" on the gravity fed models. Regards, Pete. :i_am_so_happy:
9MM fuel line will work, my current line is 9.5MM or 3/8 inch. The package listed it as 3/8 inch [9MM]. I have had the throttle in all positions from idle to WOT with no problems. however, while in WOT it was for short durations only. :blush:
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 28, 2014, 07:27:12 AM
while in WOT it was for short durations only. :blush:
Understandably :flag_of_truce:
Nothing beats the sound of that old engine howling at full revs and blasting towards the soundbarrier :good2:
Cause your ambulance would do mach 1, right? After all, you are the Red Power Ranger :rofl2:
Thanks though. I will install the fuelline as soon as i get a hold of a new heatshil for the tank.
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: Joe Sull on February 27, 2014, 06:00:13 PM
Thats what our forcast looked like in 91. I bet that common for you but not this late in the season?
[/quote]
For southern Alberta even -20 for extended periods is unusual...more normal for Manitoba where I grew up. -30 in March is very unusual for anywhere near the 49th parallel (ie US border). Yes we are :bad: with envy for Aussies this time of year, or for that matter, the California folks who see no need to own a pair of wool socks.
Told ya so:
http://ca.news.yahoo.com/blogs/geekquinox/official-winter-misery-index-confirms-just-awful-winter-205436337.html (http://ca.news.yahoo.com/blogs/geekquinox/official-winter-misery-index-confirms-just-awful-winter-205436337.html) :flag_of_truce:
We need some of that Mexican weather.
I think there giving "Chili today, Hot tomali" :wacko1:
And we here in Indy are expecting 6-10" more snow. :sorry:
All the old snow was almost gone.
56 and sunny today :good2:. Hope to cold breaks for everyone soon. It get's old quick.
George
Pissing rain right now... But we really need it...
30's in the morning and 50's in the afternoon last two days in Denver - got to ride both of them! :greeting:
Snow and freezing rain in the forecast now :flag_of_truce:
Quote from: fj1289 on March 01, 2014, 10:38:18 AM
30's in the morning and 50's in the afternoon last two days in Denver - got to ride both of them! :greeting:
Snow and freezing rain in the forecast now :flag_of_truce:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/1656344_10152334872997650_1470699512_n_zps12df28cb.jpg)
Quote from: not a lib on March 01, 2014, 11:28:42 AM
Quote from: fj1289 on March 01, 2014, 10:38:18 AM
30's in the morning and 50's in the afternoon last two days in Denver - got to ride both of them! :greeting:
Snow and freezing rain in the forecast now :flag_of_truce:
(http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu159/rktmanfj/1656344_10152334872997650_1470699512_n_zps12df28cb.jpg)
Nice! I am actually liking the idea of a "down" season - makes it easier to tear into the bike for mods or preventative maintenance without rushing to get back on the road.
At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it!
I bet it's 60 in Norway today. (popcorn)
Ken not found!
Quote from: FJ111200 on February 25, 2014, 01:20:58 PM
Here's a long shot, have you got a spare left hand front 1TX or 36Y brake caliper?
If you have just try that in the place of the rear caliper you've got. It will fit, I used one for a rear on my FJ.
As I say, it's a long shot.
Would the left blue dot fit too??
Joe, actually to its quit hot... 32 f, or as we call it 0 degrees celcius... Beeing a metric country and all... :rofl2:
Cheers
Kem
Quote from: keand3 on March 02, 2014, 02:35:07 AM
Quote from: FJ111200 on February 25, 2014, 01:20:58 PM
Here's a long shot, have you got a spare left hand front 1TX or 36Y brake caliper?
If you have just try that in the place of the rear caliper you've got. It will fit, I used one for a rear on my FJ.
As I say, it's a long shot.
Would the left blue dot fit too??
Honestly don't know Ken. The blue spots fit the 3CV and later, so I doubt it. Have you got one to try or measure?
I have a blue dot fitted, but as you said it fits 3CV and later so i don't think so either. Will measure and see. I have my right 1TX caliper but can't find my left one. Guess I'll have to find one on eBay I guess..
Are you still having a problem with the clearance issue between the caliper piston and the disc?
I only suggested using the 36Y/1TX caliper as a "maybe". I know it works 'cos I fitted one on my FJ. They must also heve a bigger bore for the fluid as I found you can lock the rear wheel without much pressure.
Has too much metal been taken off the caliper bracket to cause your problem? I personally wouldn't touch FJOCUK with a barge pole.
Quote from: FJ111200 on March 02, 2014, 03:23:05 AM
Are you still having a problem with the clearance issue between the caliper piston and the disc?.
Has too much metal been taken off the caliper bracket to cause your problem? I personally wouldn't touch FJOCUK with a barge pole.
Fjclub send of this brackets to be machined elsewhere, so they don't do it them self. And they should have been quality checked before shipping them out. Don't know if they did so i did measure then my self. :scratch_one-s_head:
The thickness of the caliper bracket seems to be correct when i measure it, so I'm actuall not sure what causes it
I haven't tried fitting the OEM spacer on the left, it should be some mm thicker then the one that came with the kit.
The only concern i have fitting it isvthat the offset on the chain will be to great.
Well! Did you finish it? (popcorn)
No, iam working 13 - 14 hours days so time isent on my side.
I will however make some measurements to during the weekend and see if I may order some next week.
Took off my end pieces on the handle bar, by the first look of it it look my endbar blinkers won't fit.
Will tinker around and see..
Cheers
Ken
Just a quick update on the thread.
Last night i was able to glue on a new heat sheild it, change the bad fuel line and safty wire the petcock.
It was a bit cold outide yesterday so i hope the glue and shield have bonded by now.
Here's some pics
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_11_03_14_6_49_46_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/2912_11_03_14_6_49_43_0.jpeg)
Just a note. The fuel line to the petcock needs to run UNDER the hose feeding carbs 3&4. Otherwise it could pinch off.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on March 11, 2014, 02:02:55 PM
Just a note. The fuel line to the petcock needs to run UNDER the hose feeding carbs 3&4. Otherwise it could pinch off.
I believe it runs under both hoses. Otherwise it will pinch on the #1 & 2 hose as well.
I did a search because I didn't understand.
Monkey wrote this;
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9266.msg87760#msg87760 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9266.msg87760#msg87760)
Scroll down to see picture #2
I'm glad this came up.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on March 11, 2014, 02:02:55 PM
Just a note. The fuel line to the petcock needs to run UNDER the hose feeding carbs 3&4. Otherwise it could pinch off.
Thank you for noticing guys :good2:
You are absolute right! it needs to be routed underneath those two feed lines.
I have never had any fuel starvation issues with the bike, and i think the PO Did ride it like this.
I didn't notice the improper routing until the first winter when it came a part. :dash2:
After the picture was taken it was routed correctly. :good2:
Looks like I'm getting a few days off of work this week so i will try to get around installing the handlebar blinkers.
Anyone with a good idea of where to drill the hole in the handlebar for wires?
Cheers
Ken
Do you put something under the tank or levitate it somehow while you diddle with the hose clamp and hose?
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 12, 2014, 05:28:24 AM
Do you put something under the tank or levitate it somehow while you diddle with the hose clamp and hose?
With the front lugs engaged you can lift the back of the tank quite high, even higher than this if necessary.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3733/13102380475_bc0a911565_c.jpg)
Since my tank is practical empty now, I just take ti off or hold it with one hand.
For a heavier tank or when in need of both hands I do as ribbert does, as shown on the picture. :good2:
My tank had to be empty before I glued on the heat shield. The next job is to try and clean up that conact glue from the spraycan, that slightly hit the new paint...
Cheers
Ken
Kookaloooo :good2: :good2: :wacko3: :wacko3:
I had my first ride today!! What a feeling! It seems like the spring has arrived early this year so I am hopping it will hold... We can how ever expect snow for at least two more month (that's inc. march)
Anyway, work has been a bitch lately and the hours feels like been multiplying for each week. I have not bother on taking photos of the reassemble of the bike up until now.
I will how ever take some tomorrow, or sunday, and upload. I'm quite happy with the end result and the paint etc.
Still got some minor things to do before its completely finished and ready for this year season. I am waiting for my new clutch reservoir to arrive from the states within 2 weeks or so, and a set of new mirrors from Germany. (BTW, have a 2 pairs of unused CBR mirrors (with and with out integrated turnsignals) if anyones interested)
Need to change to my new chain. (yes I know, I should have done it before riding!! ) Have to order a new windscreen so my old one won't ruin the look of the new paint.
I have installed the new Kellermann BL2000 endbars turnsingnal blinkers and they are just a delight to use :good2: No more fainring fiddling and turnsignal bracket repairs! :dance:
My clearance issue on the rear brake caliper, seem now the be within acceptable offset... All though there is no braking power! I have no rear wheel brake so I have to look into that.
Any "special" trick to bleed that damn rear caliper? I think there might be some issues internally with the caliper, cause it doesn't seem to get fluid evenly on both sides. When I bleed on the outside it seems to work fine, but on the inside it only leaks when I undo the bleed screw.
I use compressed air so there shoulden't be any problem getting the fluid through the system, although it seems like that the case..
I have no personal experience with these but the concept is spot on, and others praise them. I will be upgrading my FJ with them.
http://www.speedbleeder.com/ (http://www.speedbleeder.com/)
(http://www.speedbleeder.com/images/sbani.gif)
I speed bled my brakes with a little hose on the fitting long enough to reach to the bottom of a little clear jar. I put a little fluid in to cause a seal.
I'm sure that you do the same thing. The thing is that it doesn't work to get all the air out for some reason. My bike set for a day or so and I set up the jar and the tube on the fitting the same way but I used a wrench on the fitting. I just don't want fluid on the paint.
I pump up the brake and hold it then open the valve. When the lever hits bottom close the valve. Do that 5 times and you should be good.
My brakes and clutch are rock solid
I had a hard time with the clutch. I must have speed bled for 15 minutes till I started to get something. I got it a point were the clutch was working but there was still air in it. Sitting overnight must let the bubbles move to one spot. I went back and bled with a wrench and the clutch pumped up hard. good luck. It will be great to see the pics. :hi:
Thanks for the tip Monkey and Joe.. :good2:
Monkey: Those speedbleeders, are they ment to use with compressed air and without using a wrench to open the fittings as usually?
Joe: Yes i will try the manually method as you described, it might give me some luck. I do get fluid through the system, but the fitting on the inside is tricky. When i open it after build up pressure it seems to leak at the base on the fitting. The fluid comes from underneath and up and out through the hole and not through the fitting it self it seems.
Even a tight wad like myself is willing to gamble $7 on a speed bleeder to try and get my clutch half way decent. I'm getting tired of having to nurse first gear in - be great if it cures or improves this action.
Andy
Hi Ken,
Put some Teflon plumbers tape on the bleeder. Also keep the tube full by keeping it elevated above the bleeder. A vacuum pump also helps to get the air moving sometimes....esp with the clutch slave. Lots of good u tube videos too.
Jeff
Ken,
It sounds like that bleeder needs the teflon tape (as Jeff recommended), and also may be blocked with crud.
You can clean it easily with a small wire, and its better to do so from the tip out.
Quote from: keand3 on March 21, 2014, 05:16:40 PM
Monkey: Those speedbleeders, are they ment to use with compressed air and without using a wrench to open the fittings as usually?
The SB (Speed Bleeders) simplify the old tried and true way of bleeding. The threads are coated to seal them so air cannot get sucked back in. The check valve acts like keeping the end of the tube under the surface of the fluid. It also eliminates the need to loosen, bleeder, squeeze lever, just as the squeeze is ending tighten bleeder.
It is easier to describe the process with the SB. Install clear tube on bleeder to direct old fluid to waste container. Crack the SB open just a touch, maybe an 1/8 of a turn. Squeeze lever slowly, watch fluid flush out through clear tube into container. Repeat squeezing process till air bubbles are no longer coming out of tube with the fluid. Top off master as needed during this process. When satisfied that bleeding is complete, tighten SB, clean up and ride. No air required, unless you want a fan blowing to keep cool with....
Here is some sealent for speed bleeders if you use them a lot. Wonder if it would work with old fashion bleeders instead of yellow or red Teflon tape ?
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/3855/Speedbleeders (http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/3855/Speedbleeders)
Some bleeders. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s?keyword=speed+bleeder (http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s?keyword=speed+bleeder)
George
Thanks for tips on the bleeding guys, will look into it when i have the time :good2:
In the mean time, here's some photos of the bika as promissed.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_22_03_14_3_49_14_0.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_22_03_14_3_49_18_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_22_03_14_3_49_21_2.jpeg)
Extremely nice looking bike. Is that black on the duck bill?
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 22, 2014, 05:07:10 PM
Extremely nice looking bike. Is that black on the duck bill?
Thanks! Im quite happy with the result.
Duck bill?? Please explain so a foreigner could understand :pardon:
Ken
The rear section in back of the seat.
blue and the flare looks black?
Very nice Ken :good2:
the white wheels go nicely with the dark blue.
Scott
Quote from: FJ111200 on March 02, 2014, 03:23:05 AM
I personally wouldn't touch FJOCUK with a barge pole.
:good2:
Ken,
Nice job. You're going to love that GIVI tank bag almost as much as you will hate the white wheels even though they look nice.
Now go and ride that thing.
Quote from: Arnie on March 22, 2014, 08:27:41 PM
Ken,
Nice job. You're going to love that GIVI tank bag almost as much as you will hate the white wheels even though they look nice.
Now go and ride that thing.
Yes! That givi tank bag is incredible nice. The only drawback is that the back part of it is sitting/hanging down onto the tank and leaving marks from the fabric thats a pain in the ass to get of when washing the bike.
The white wheels dosent stay white for long, but thats just a reason to wash it :yahoo:
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 22, 2014, 05:33:12 PM
The rear section in back of the seat.
blue and the flare looks black?
Yes you are quite right Joe, The flare is black and the rest is blue. So thats what you call the duck bill... :biggrin:
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on March 22, 2014, 11:46:00 PM
The only drawback is that the back part of it is sitting/hanging down onto the tank and leaving marks from the fabric thats a pain in the ass to get of when washing the bike.
Ken, your bag may not be adjusted properly. No part of my tank bag touches my tank. Maybe a picture of it as you have it installed.
Yes, i guss your spot on, it might just be an adjusment thing. Ill take some more photos later today :good2:
So you wired some directional LED's? How did you wire the relay? I want to get the alien antennae off my bike. LED's are cheap. My son wired up his Harley by changing his mechanical flasher for an electric flasher relay. He bought a 5 pin relay and wired it to the flasher and then wired the LED directionals to the 5 pin. It works good. The directionals are running lights that flash off and they do it at a normal rate. I'm curious how you did it.
I'm afraid i have to disappoint you, but i used resistors this time around. I will be wiring a new relay, but work hours is killing me so i haven't had the time yet.
As discussed earlier i would like to replace the hole oem flasher relay but that means giving up all of those saftyfeatures that comes with the bike. So I'll guess i just attach those turnsignal wires on the new relay and have then both.
So i discovered another fuel staining the floor underneath the bike. Not quite sure where it comes from but i did have look at it.
I don't think it's my homemade seal as is seems pretty good.
As some might remember the last fuel leak was due to in propper installment of one of the screws. I hadn't screwed it all the way in and torquet down. I tightened both screws down so they should be fine.
I also noticed after replacing the fuel line that the it had been to long and gotten a bend just by the petcock. I cut of the excess line and reattached it again.
The fuel tank is full so i wouldn't want to take the petcock out yet so hopefully it was fixed. The bike has been sitting at the same spot since, and there hasn't been a build up fuel stain on the floor, so i hope it's fixed. I do how ever think it's about time i order a new petcock, mine has been in the bike since it was new.
Ken,
There may be a speck of dirt in one of the needle and seats? Take her for a good run to get the fuel moving...a few taps on the float bowl sometimes helps too.
Jeff
Quote from: jscgdunn on March 25, 2014, 08:28:49 AM
Ken,
There may be a speck of dirt in one of the needle and seats? Take her for a good run to get the fuel moving...a few taps on the float bowl sometimes helps too.
Jeff
Thanks for tip Jeff :good2: but i know for sure the leak is from or on the petcock somewhere. The first time it leaked it was obvious since one screw wasn't set all the way in. :dash2:
The second time i did manage to see small drips of fuel originating from the petcock, but not exactly where on the petcock. I will how ever try to look at it again, and if then still leaks, it's time to change it.
I am glad i do have a safty wire though :-)
Well.... Finally the shit hit the fan....
I took off the tank today to have a closer look at the petcock to see if i could locate the source of the leak...
By the looks of things it looked like it was the seal i make my self that wasen't propperly seated. (I had the weld in nut repaird earlier for those who remeber)
Anyway, as I where to bolt the petcock back on, the bolt on the previously repaird nut wouldent torque down. It keept spinning and spinning... So now I need to have it repaired, again... :dash1: :dash1:
I'm not sure if that was the source to the leak, but its likely it was a part of it as the seal underneath the part of the petcock looked like it wase't propperly done.
But I can't seem to make up my mind if I should buy a new petcock or not....
Here's the link for the repair I was talking about:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7636.msg83873#msg83873 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7636.msg83873#msg83873)
The petcock uses an o-ring to seal, did the repair change the surface so you cannot use the o-ring now?
I do have new o-rings in a bag somewhere...
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on March 25, 2014, 03:24:14 PM
The petcock uses an o-ring to seal, did the repair change the surface so you cannot use the o-ring now?
I do have new o-rings in a bag somewhere...
Randy - RPM
Yes Randy, I did use the O-ring but since the new nut is slightly higher and not flush with the tank as the other nut, I needed something "even" them out.
It worked perfectly last year when I did it, but I think I got sloopy this time around.
I would how ever need some new O-rings for the petcock, and for the bolts too probably...
I'll sendt you and email with what I need :good2:
Ken
Heres's the pictures I took yesterday from the tank leak.
On this picture you see the new seal that will go on as soon as I have gotten the nut repaired.
I guess most of you understand why I need and make that extra seal underneath... :good2:
The last seal I made was just a fraction to small didn't cover the hole area of the petcock, and that was probably the source of my leak this time. I can not tell if the nut were broken at that point, or if I might have overtighten it the when trying to torque it down the last time.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_26_03_14_1_32_40_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_26_03_14_1_32_37_0.jpeg)
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 21, 2014, 04:17:35 PM
I speed bled my brakes with a little hose on the fitting long enough to reach to the bottom of a little clear jar. I put a little fluid in to cause a seal.
I'm sure that you do the same thing. The thing is that it doesn't work to get all the air out for some reason. My bike set for a day or so and I set up the jar and the tube on the fitting the same way but I used a wrench on the fitting. I just don't want fluid on the paint.
I pump up the brake and hold it then open the valve. When the lever hits bottom close the valve. Do that 5 times and you should be good.
My brakes and clutch are rock solid
I had a hard time with the clutch. I must have speed bled for 15 minutes till I started to get something. I got it a point were the clutch was working but there was still air in it. Sitting overnight must let the bubbles move to one spot. I went back and bled with a wrench and the clutch pumped up hard. good luck. It will be great to see the pics. :hi:
Joe, I manage to solve the braking issue today (only to find another one)
It turned out to be one of the bleeders was filled with old dirt and stuff... I drilled out the holes and cleaned it, sealed the thread with some tape and Voila! it bleeded perfectly!
I then discovered that I had no rear brakelight when pushing the pedal. The damn pressure banjo bolt have had their wires snapped straight off!! :dash1: How that have happend I have no idea..
Wont bother fixing that until the wheel comes off nex time...
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: yampug on March 22, 2014, 06:03:05 PM
Quote from: FJ111200 on March 02, 2014, 03:23:05 AM
I personally wouldn't touch FJOCUK with a barge pole.
:good2:
Hey Man, you're still in the land of the living YP? Nice one Pal.
How's your
FJ?
You will be pleased to know you where the topic of some concern a few weeks ago, some of us were wondering were you'd got too?
Quote from: pete m on March 30, 2014, 04:07:39 AM
Quote from: yampug on March 22, 2014, 06:03:05 PM
Quote from: FJ111200 on March 02, 2014, 03:23:05 AM
I personally wouldn't touch FJOCUK with a barge pole.
:good2:
Hey Man, you're still in the land of the living YP? Nice one Pal.
How's your FJ?
You will be pleased to know you where the topic of some concern a few weeks ago, some of us were wondering were you'd got too?
At the risk of hi-jacking this thread, who was the topic of some concern? Me or pug? If it was me then great, anything to have a good old dig at those wankers.
Good one Ken :drinks: Glad you got them pumped up.
Finally got some spare time to look at the tank today.
I tried to make my custom tank seal, as i did last year, after having a nut installed. But this time around it seems like it keeps giving me trouble.
No matter how i make the seal, it keeps leaking. Not much just a few drops and i don't drive at all when there's a fuel leak.
It looks like the new nut is slightly off set compared to the bolt hole on the petcock, might be the cause of it, unknown but it is leaking from that area around the nut.
I figured i might need a thicker material to make the seal of to compensated for any uneven surfaces. But I had non laying around and ask stores were closed. Luckily i found a tube of silicone sealant
to use when making custom seal. I took the tube and laid some sealant around the new nut, and outer edged of the petcock aera on the tank before pressing on the home made seal as earlier and bolted down the petcock.
I will let the sealant harden to tomorrow before i turn the tank right side up and check if holds. hopefully it does and i could have it for a spin tomorrow...
Forgot to take pictures though.. Sorry about that..
Oh, and Mr. Monkey, i will try to take a photo of the givi tank bag tomorrow as you requested earlier. (made those not washable away marks)
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on April 05, 2014, 03:18:57 PM
Oh, and Mr. Monkey, i will try to take a photo of the givi tank bag tomorrow as you requested earlier. (made those not washable away marks)
Cheers
Ken
Ken, is this the problem you are referring to?
Quote from: keand3 on March 22, 2014, 11:46:00 PM
Yes! That givi tank bag is incredible nice. The only drawback is that the back part of it is sitting/hanging down onto the tank and leaving marks from the fabric thats a pain in the ass to get of when washing the bike.
Cheers
Ken
I had the same problem but at the front, just enough contact to mark the paint. I think they probably suffered some distortion when packed tight for shipping. Let's know.
Noel
Noel,
Yes that's the problem I'm referring to :good2:
I will need to give the tank a good wash and see if polishing it will help.
Ken
Ken,
Silicone is not fuel resistant and will not work to seal fuel. In fact one of the easiests ways to remove silicone is to soak it in gas.
Randy
Quote from: keand3 on April 05, 2014, 03:18:57 PM
Finally got some spare time to look at the tank today.
I tried to make my custom tank seal, as i did last year, after having a nut installed. But this time around it seems like it keeps giving me trouble.
No matter how i make the seal, it keeps leaking. Not much just a few drops and i don't drive at all when there's a fuel leak.
It looks like the new nut is slightly off set compared to the bolt hole on the petcock, might be the cause of it, unknown but it is leaking from that area around the nut.
I figured i might need a thicker material to make the seal of to compensated for any uneven surfaces. But I had non laying around and ask stores were closed. Luckily i found a tube of silicone sealant
to use when making custom seal. I took the tube and laid some sealant around the new nut, and outer edged of the petcock aera on the tank before pressing on the home made seal as earlier and bolted down the petcock.
I will let the sealant harden to tomorrow before i turn the tank right side up and check if holds. hopefully it does and i could have it for a spin tomorrow...
Forgot to take pictures though.. Sorry about that..
Oh, and Mr. Monkey, i will try to take a photo of the givi tank bag tomorrow as you requested earlier. (made those not washable away marks)
Cheers
Ken
Are you using the factory screws with the seals under the head ?
George
Randy, yes I'm aware of it :yes: not sure if it is silicon, but its red and the paste resambles silicon.
I thought i give it a go and see if it can seal the fuel. The package description stated it was oil and fuel resistant so i thought, "what the heck" :pardon:
I do anticipate it to leak still and the only the worst thing that could happen is that i have to start all over again. :good2: Will report back wether it holds or not.
George,
Yes i have new screws i got from Randy with appropriate seal last year :good2.
Quote from: keand3 on April 05, 2014, 11:40:41 PM
.........the worst thing that could happen is that i have to start all over again.
The worst thing that could happen is, if the fuel dissolves it and it ends up in you carbies.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on April 06, 2014, 08:37:17 AM
The worst thing that could happen is, if the fuel dissolves it and it ends up in you carbies.
Noel
Well, yes except from that :wacko3:
The seal has been holding up for 24h soon. No sign of leaks yet, but i will have it laying a while longer..
Ken
I was just looking at you by satellite :biggrin:. Looks like some good countrified riding to the westward of you on 303. Is that were you go riding?
Quote from: Joe Sull on April 06, 2014, 02:58:16 PM
I was just looking at you by satellite :biggrin:. Looks like some good countrified riding to the westward of you on 303. Is that were you go riding?
Damn! Your close man!!
303 is actually in norwegian road called "Riksvei 303". Theres no good translation but its a small road owned and maintained by the state government. :yes:
It's a long old road that leads all the way south in the country bu intertween and mixing with other roads :good2: It has a certain charm when you get a bit futher south from where I live :i_am_so_happy:
Will mount my Go Pro on day, and record the 303 for you and upload it to YouTube.. :good2:
The really good roads is the coastal roads to the west and far north...
Speaking of riding, my fix on the petcock seal has now hold the fuel for 24h without any leaks, so I went crazy and got the tank on the bike.. Gotta ride as soon as possible, or I will sell my bike to an eskimo! (no offence)
I also mounted my new mirrors from Germany in black aluminum, and they look awesome. Will see if I have time to take pictures tomorrow..
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on April 05, 2014, 09:31:20 PM
Noel,
Yes that's the problem I'm referring to :good2:
I will need to give the tank a good wash and see if polishing it will help.
Ken
Ken, not long after I discovered the bag rubbing on the tank, I bought the one below. The size (it's considerably smaller) and semi rigid case suited me better and I now only use the other one a few times a year on trips. On these occasions I stick some tape on the tank.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7337/13690211825_5cb4b791e7_z.jpg)
If I had continued to use it though I was going to make a second ring (the metal horseshoe) to lift it up slightly.
I fitted the bag yesterday and to my surprise there was heaps of clearance, as you can see.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3698/13690232103_643c97b08b_z.jpg)
I now have a new theory, the heat from the fuel tank makes it sag when it has some weight in it??
Anyway, I think if you raised the ring by 3-5mm it would be OK. The other thing I considered was cutting a piece of 10mm marine ply to place in the bottom of the bag.
Noel
Google maps on the road!!!! YES!
AND on a Givi tanklock bag.
(http://www.omniaracing.net/images/products/bauletti--borse/borse-serbatoio/XS307%20Tanklockl.jpg)
No sooner was I getting excited at the prospect of this ( I love google maps ) and I realised that if I can get maps on it I can get email, news, youtube, porn, err more news, the forum, ebay etc.
Being away from all this is part of what makes a bike ride so therapeutic. I know you can get all this on your phone, but it's not as tempting. I think I'll stick with the map pocket.
Pat would agree (not an occasion to let go unacknowledged) :good:
Noel
Noel
Noel, thanks for the tip.
I will try adjusting my current tank bag and see how it turns out.
However, it is tempting to order a new one as the one in your last post :good2:
Noel,
When I saw your 1st Givi tankbag, I was inspired enough to go out and buy one for my Aprilia Shiver.
It has a plastic tank cover over a plastic tank :wacko3:
I have not seen any evidence of it touching the tank no matter what I carry in it.
Just my observation, YMMV.
Due to the location of my tank filler, I mounted the clasp to the back of the bag.
Quote from: Arnie on April 07, 2014, 09:53:29 AM
Noel,
When I saw your 1st Givi tankbag, I was inspired enough to go out and buy one for my Aprilia Shiver.
It has a plastic tank cover over a plastic tank :wacko3:
I have not seen any evidence of it touching the tank no matter what I carry in it.
Just my observation, YMMV.
Due to the location of my tank filler, I mounted the clasp to the back of the bag.
It's the seam at the very front of the bag that droops and touches, not where it mounts. Would depend on the curve, or lack of it, on the tank top.
Noel
Yes, that's what happens with mine too..
Looks like it will go away when i polish the tank, but i can't be doing that every time i wash the bike... :-) Some here would probably beg the differ. :rofl:
Ken
Quote from: ribbert on April 07, 2014, 06:45:59 AM
Quote from: keand3 on April 05, 2014, 09:31:20 PM
Noel,
Yes that's the problem I'm referring to :good2:
I will need to give the tank a good wash and see if polishing it will help.
Ken
Ken, not long after I discovered the bag rubbing on the tank, I bought the one below. The size (it's considerably smaller) and semi rigid case suited me better and I now only use the other one a few times a year on trips. On these occasions I stick some tape on the tank.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7337/13690211825_5cb4b791e7_z.jpg)
Noel
Noel, what's that thing with the little screen beside your GPS.
Tony.
Quote from: Bones on April 09, 2014, 02:30:44 AM
Noel, what's that thing with the little screen beside your GPS.
Tony.
It's a digital tyre pressure and tyre temperature monitor (with a low voltage alert), updates at 2 second intervals. It has proven to be 100% accurate over the last few years. All the parameters for the alerts are programmable.
It saved me falling off once. Making a turn from traffic lights, I had made a "third" lane on the outside of the two lanes of turning cars relying on getting the jump on them. Being on the outside of the turn would have required a fairly aggressive take off and turn at the same time.
While sitting at the red light, the low pressure alert caught my eye and in disbelief I watched the pressure disappear to zero over the duration of the light. Had I nailed as intended with a fully deflated back tyre, I reckon I would have gone about 10' and been sitting on my arse in the middle of the road.
Some people like to monitor oil temp, voltage etc. I like keeping an eye on my tyre pressures.
Useless fact: The rear runs about 8 deg C hotter than the front when cruising. The hottest I have noticed is about 57 deg C. The temp readings are just a novelty though and take their readings from the air inside the tyre so a blistering set of twisties or burst of speed and acceleration shows little change and does not indicate what is happening at the tyre surface.
Noel
Wher have you installed the sensors for the reading?
Whats the name of this gadet? I would like one my self :good2:
Quote from: keand3 on April 09, 2014, 07:24:42 AM
Wher have you installed the sensors for the reading?
Whats the name of this gadet? I would like one my self :good2:
It is called a "Mobiletron TPMS" Most of these units, of which there are many, use sensors that replace the valve cap.
This one has a more substantial and accurate unit mounted inside the well of the rim and secured by a a large worm drive SS clamp as per the diagram below. You have to fit them with the tyre off.
I have had mine for approx 3 years and have not changed the batteries yet. You have to be very careful changing tyres. They come with a sticker for the wheel to remind you or the tyre changer.
It continues to work flawlessly and I'm very happy with it. Also, Mobiletron is a long established actual company and manufacturer of all sorts of monitoring devices and sensors.
I also like the uncomplicated display. Some of them are too busy.
(http://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/US6805000B1/US06805000-20041019-D00003.png)
(http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/download/file.php?id=12537)
Noel
Thanks Noel for the info on the TPMS.
A 7 year battery life for the wheel sensors is the best I've seen. I didn't notice with my quick review, are the batteries for the sensors readily available, or are they unique to Mobiletron?
Did I read it right? The receiver also monitors the battery voltage?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 09, 2014, 11:38:17 AM
Thanks Noel for the info on the TPMS.
A 7 year battery life for the wheel sensors is the best I've seen. I didn't notice with my quick review, are the batteries for the sensors readily available, or are they unique to Mobiletron?
Did I read it right? The receiver also monitors the battery voltage?
I don't recall reading anything odd about the batteries. I would find it very strange if they were not off the shelf types though. No reason for them not to be.
Yes, it
monitors voltage. Not a readout but a programmable low voltage alert, red flashing symbol.
Noel
Having identiyfied the wird sound from my back wheel (which is the biggest and stupieds mistake I have ever made), I am now waiting for the hollidays past and to have some new bearings arrive in the mailbox from Randy....
Meanwhile, I have rebuild the rear master cylinder but there is always, always something else happening forcing med to focus my attention on this as well... Not the biggest issue in the world, but I discovered that the small screw thats clamps the rear brake pedal had snaped... Right in the middle.... Although I really hade to force the pedal out from its grooves, I would feel safe riding until I know thers a screw holding it in place.
Have no idea on how long it have bee like that, but it anoys me that Murphy's Law always pays a visit from time to time...
Was hoping to have a screw laying around that would fit, but no. This screw has a thread pattern that looks like a wooden screw... (if you know what i mean) Will se if im able to get a picture of it tomorrow. (Have to find it again, first)
Cheers
Ken
This chart my help you find the right screw.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_drill_and_tap_sizes (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_drill_and_tap_sizes)
I use it a lot.
Your probably familiar with "easy outs" for removing broken bolts.
Good luck with the rear wheel.
Ken,
From memory, that is a "normal" machine screw threaded part. Again, from memory, it is a 6mm x 1.0 thread size.
I would guess that if you've got a tapering wood screw like thread, that some DPO has just forced what they had handy into that hole. Yamaha uses this particular clamp bolt on a few other bikes as well, see link:
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-90109-06468-00.html (http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-90109-06468-00.html)
Quote from: Arnie on April 20, 2014, 07:44:03 PM
Ken,
From memory, that is a "normal" machine screw threaded part. Again, from memory, it is a 6mm x 1.0 thread size.
I would guess that if you've got a tapering wood screw like thread, that some DPO has just forced what they had handy into that hole. Yamaha uses this particular clamp bolt on a few other bikes as well, see link:
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-90109-06468-00.html (http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-90109-06468-00.html)
Arnie, does that screw look anything like this? Thats the bolt that snapped... :scratch_one-s_head:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_21_04_14_12_14_36_0.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_21_04_14_12_14_39_1.jpeg)
Just to show that the brake fluid is some strong shit, this is how my rear master cylinder housinig looked like after I had peeled off all that loose paint... :wacko3:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_21_04_14_12_14_43_2.jpeg)
Cheers
Ken
Ohh.... And I just love washing those white rims....... :good2: :wacko2: :wacko2: :wacko1: :good2: :good2:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_21_04_14_12_14_46_3.jpeg)
That can't be the stock screw. It's got to be the PO's answer to a quick fix. :sarcastic:
Quote from: Joe Sull on April 21, 2014, 01:56:24 PM
That can't be the stock screw. It's got to be the PO's answer to a quick fix. :sarcastic:
A left hand drill bit should make quick work of that.
Quote from: Joe Sull on April 21, 2014, 01:56:24 PM
That can't be the stock screw. It's got to be the PO's answer to a quick fix. :sarcastic:
That was what I was thinking to.... :rofl:
Quote from: not a lib on April 21, 2014, 01:57:24 PM
A left hand drill bit should make quick work of that.
Yup, hopefully it does :-) But every time i try to fix a broken screw on the bike, F"%/&# Murphy shows up every time :wacko3:
Ken,
That looks like a self-drilling self-tapping tek screw.
Unfortunately for you, they are hardened and you're gonna have a tough time getting the broken part out.
Even if you do get it out, the original thread will be Fukked. However, there is enough meat on that brake lever that you should be able to drill and tap it to the next size. A US SAE 1/4" bolt is ~ 6.25mm which may be large enough.
Or just drill it through and put a bolt and nut on, its only used as a clamp after all.
It just occurred to me...
I thought the ambulances all had aluminum brake pedals. :scratch_one-s_head:
Quote from: not a lib on April 21, 2014, 09:01:21 PM
It just occurred to me...
I thought the ambulances all had aluminum brake pedals. :scratch_one-s_head:
Mine does, the 84' I saw two weeks ago did not. I was thinking it was a replacement part. Now I have to wonder about that....
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 21, 2014, 09:18:42 PM
Quote from: not a lib on April 21, 2014, 09:01:21 PM
It just occurred to me...
I thought the ambulances all had aluminum brake pedals. :scratch_one-s_head:
Mine does, the 84' I saw two weeks ago did not. I was thinking it was a replacement part. Now I have to wonder about that....
The brake pedal, passenger pegs, etc. on both of my 3CVs are steel, but I have those same parts from an '86, and they're cast aluminum.
In my repair of the 1990 I needed a right side rider peg. I picked up an 86 or 87 peg and it is cast and my 1990 was a stamped steel. Just another one of the small differences between models.
George
Quote from: Arnie on April 21, 2014, 08:04:36 PM
Ken,
That looks like a self-drilling self-tapping tek screw.
Unfortunately for you, they are hardened and you're gonna have a tough time getting the broken part out.
Even if you do get it out, the original thread will be Fukked. However, there is enough meat on that brake lever that you should be able to drill and tap it to the next size. A US SAE 1/4" bolt is ~ 6.25mm which may be large enough.
Or just drill it through and put a bolt and nut on, its only used as a clamp after all.
Arnie,
I got that fukker out :good2: Don't think I'll bother my self with tapping it to the next size, I'mgonna keep it simple and use a bolt and nut i think :dance2:
Thanks for the advice :good2:
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 21, 2014, 09:18:42 PM
Mine does, the 84' I saw two weeks ago did not. I was thinking it was a replacement part. Now I have to wonder about that....
You have yours pedal out of aluinum? Hmm... Mine is made out of steel... :scratch_one-s_head:
Ken
Ken, you should try the OEM 6x1.00mm bolt to see if the threads are damaged or the PO was just a lazy POS. You may get lucky :yahoo:
Another very minor thing you can do with the brake pedal off is to grind off some of the metal on the left side of the foot pad and round the corner a little. It will not stop the pedal from impacting the clutch cover in the event of a mishap but might end up being the difference between a dent or scratch in the cover vs a cracked cover.
George
The PO had completely ruined the threads I'm afraid. I drilled out the rest and went easy with bolt and nut.
George, thanks for the tip.
I would never have thought of that :good2:
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on April 22, 2014, 01:28:30 AM
You have yours pedal out of aluinum? Hmm... Mine is made out of steel... :scratch_one-s_head:
Ken
Well, I have an '86 pedal that's of aluminum... the pic of your steel one made me question my memory for a second.
I'd guess the PO changed it out at some point. :unknown:
Quote from: movenon on April 22, 2014, 05:47:00 AM
Another very minor thing you can do with the brake pedal off is to grind off some of the metal on the left side of the foot pad and round the corner a little. It will not stop the pedal from impacting the clutch cover in the event of a mishap but might end up being the difference between a dent or scratch in the cover vs a cracked cover.
George
That's brilliant. I'll be doing that if I remember the next time I have the thing apart!
Got the new bearings in the wheel today, and this time I remebered the spacer on the sprocket carrier :rofl2:
Went for an 1,5 h drive with no sign to any fault what so ever... :yahoo: :yahoo:
But... 500 meters from my house my rev counter and fuel gauge stopt working.. :dash2:
It was the fuse that had blown, and thats the first fuse to go since I bought the bike.. But I still womder why it blew...
Cheers
Ken
Hi guys..
Well, I did manage to tighten that sucker up, and now the banjo bolt is holding up :good2:
Have ordered a new pressure banjo bolt so I can get the rear brakelight going again, but until then I'll ride without..
I got my self some nice new treats, toys or what ever you would call it to my bike :yahoo:
Notting big or fancy or anything like that, but a new reservoir for my clutch master cylinder...
Sorry for those bad photos... I will try to take some new ones with better quality, but the will be uploaded at my public folder in OneDrive. So if you would like to see them I suggest you look there. :pardon:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_29_04_14_12_45_44_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/2912_29_04_14_12_45_41_0.jpeg)
Cheers
Ken
Hi guys, a little update on the bike...
The bike is performing outstanding! Someone in an earlier thread of mine mentioned that my bike (with the blue color) looks like a sleeper. Meaning it doesn't attract attention form the guys in blue...
Well, I can report that as of now, that's true! I probably just been lucky though, but its nice to think the color is helping :yes:
That fekken moditus always keeps pointing me in directions on where i can improve things, damn it!.... :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: The list just keeps growing and growing...
Yesterday the bike just passed 110.000km and its still kicks ass like my mother in-law! :rofl2:
I have been using the Kellerman BL2000 handlebar turnsignals i while now, and I got to say I really like them. I Had some issues at first, especially on the throttle side that it would get "unscrewed" when ever I used the throttle and when its was fully open. The rubber was twisting it back as I was throttling. Fixed it bu gently cutting of the tip rubber handles. They need to be replaced anyway but i won't be doing that until the winter.
I got a an offer for the bike (unseen, just the rumor spreading ;-) from a guy futher down south in the country. He was commuting in from Greenland for the summer to work and need transport.. I politely decline the offer, its not for sale! NEVER!
Joe, he being from Greenland and actually being an Eskimo (I had to ask! :-), I thought it would had been fun selling it to an Eskimo as you said back in my thread describing the seasons first ride...
Here's the thread (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11233.msg111016;topicseen#msg111016)
Quote from: Joe Sull on March 21, 2014, 04:34:13 PM
Quote from: keand3 on March 21, 2014, 01:23:50 PM
It was lovely letting her loose again, and feeling her lust and desire for that twisting throttle! She hungers for more torque, speed and action, I am certain of it! :wacko3: :wacko3: :wacko3:
You could sell your FJ to an Eskimo with a line like that.
I had an attempt on recording a video here some days back, but the mounting point of my GoPro was not good. Wind exposure made the video unwatchable as its was flickering all over the place. Will try again soon with the camera mounted on my helmet. Will try to catch some footage of those local scenic places and upload it to youtube for you guys to watch..
Cheers
Ken
The FJ's a very powerful and scary motorcycle. :blum1: You go running around using wide open throttle and everybodys gonna pay attention, Blue or not. :biggrin:. I think I've only, maybe hit 8k on the tach. I was to worried to look down.
Those masters you got look awesome!!! I didn't see that post on the 29 th of April. Must have missed it. The fellow from Greenland might be better off with a Vespa scooter. He can put chains on it and show his dogs how to pull a sled. :crazy:
What are you using on your chain for lube now. I'm trying to get a hold of some of the wax based teflon stuff but they don't sell it around here. I am trying chainsaw bar oil for a couple of days now. I got a 1/2 gallon of the winter grade. The summer grade is a lot thicker. That would be best. I found some Tri-flo yesterday at the local hardware. I stuck it under the seat so it's there. Bar oils cheap and it's not hard to brush on.
Good luck with the video. Joe :bye:
When you say masters, you are refering to the resorvioir?
I use Castrol Racing chain lube for my chain, its on a spraycan and they know how to overprice them self... But I think the lube is excellent for my use :good2:
Wax based teflon stuff? Never heard off. Any good? There are endless choises when it comes to lubeing... :wacko3:
Recorded a hour or so driving yesterday, will try to upload today ;-)
Cheers
Ken
I thought you replaced both clutch and front brake master cylinders. They don't look stock anyway.
Heres a link to something Capt. Ron wrote about wax based teflon lube for chains. I want to try it.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=10326.msg99945#msg99945 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=10326.msg99945#msg99945)
Ahh... Now I'm on the same page as you :greeting:
Yes, I have replaced both of the m/c. The brake m/c I replaced when I did the front wheel mod last year. It came of an 97' R1, a 14mm piston.
The clutch master cylinder I replaced this winter, before the start of the season. I drove it somewhat ugly looking to begin with. I had to make a temporarily bracket for an old reservoir until I got my new one (the blue one in the picture) I took 8 fekken weeks to manufacture that little thing, but I think it was worth it :wacko3:
The lube Capt. Ron wrote about looks nice... Don't know if we have them over here either.. Perhaps eBay is the way to go..
I'm looking forward to viewing your videos.
If I can't be there in person, the video is the next best thing!
Your bike looks great.
Steve
Quote from: Steve_in_Florida on June 04, 2014, 07:12:51 AM
I'm looking forward to viewing your videos.
If I can't be there in person, the video is the next best thing!
Your bike looks great.
Steve
I'll advice when its up and ready :good2: Its an hour of footage so it need some serious editing.
Cheers
Quote from: keand3 on June 04, 2014, 01:35:30 AM
Wax based teflon stuff? Never heard off. Any good? There are endless choises when it comes to lubeing... :wacko3:
Cheers
Ken
Well, when you need the best of anything, you should look here;
RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com/)
Here is the chain lube:
Tank Bag size;
Tri-Flow 4oz (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tri-flowS)
Garage size;
Tri-Flow 12oz (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=tri-flowL)
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy!
Now I know what to add on my next order :good2:
Well Joe, and all you other guys, as promised here's the video. I had forgot how much time it actually takes to edit footage so I haven't put all my effort into this video. :dash2:
Been a while since I've done any editing so I quickly realized that I need to freshen up a bit on that.. :scratch_one-s_head:
Will improve until the next one though :good2:
I added some free music offered by YouTube onto the first half of the video, and the second half is with "driving" noise but mostly windnoise I'm afraid.. :pardon:
The trip took me trough some small towns and country side along the coast, southbound from where I live. As Joe pointed out from goggle maps, the road is called RV303..
(will be taking the corner part later on Joe)
Enjoy!
FJ1200 Short trip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nO1Bv8el1LQ&feature=youtu.be)
Anyone know how to get the video to be viewable like the photos in the thread??
Good job with the video Ken. I liked it! I was surprised to see that you drive on the right like we do. I guess scandinavia is different than europe. I don't get out of the country much. The urban areas you drove thru look quite different, as far as architecture but the highway looks very similar to I-95 in Maine. You wouldn't see tunnels like that here, at least in my neck of the woods. I noticed that they put tunnels in were blasting out rock would be easy. some of the tunnels went thru mountains, I can see that. Tunnels must be cheaper than building bridges. If they wanted to expand the road, they'de have to take the tunnel out. :dash1:
I Removed my rear wheel and gave my chain a bath in kerosine. Brushed it on the wire wheel. Washed it again with a brush and kerosine. Took the cover off the counter sprocket and washed under that. Took off my starter and broke it down. Got that all clean inside. She's been a little sluggish starting. Everythings together now and the starters working properly. I did use Tri-Flo on the chain. Comes out of the can thin. I'll have to do it again, I think, after the kerosine gets squeezed out. The chain looks almost new and the wheel seems free'er. A lot of grime came out of it.
Nice country,Ken. Looks a lot like driving the Fraser Canyon only with 4 lanes instead of just 2. Great video. Big R
Thanks. It was fun making it :yahoo: Will be makeing more soon i hope.
Actually, as far as i know, UK is the only european country that drive on the left side. All other drives on the right :good2:
The urban areas, meaning town like denseti, is typiclly 50 and 60's architecture.
Cheers
Ken
Quote from: keand3 on June 04, 2014, 10:22:47 PM
Thanks. It was fun making it :yahoo: Will be makeing more soon i hope.
Actually, as far as i know, UK is the only european country that drive on the left side. All other drives on the right :good2:
The urban areas, meaning town like denseti, is typiclly 50 and 60's architecture.
Cheers
Ken
The UK, Ireland, Malta & Cyprus are the only European counties that drive on the left. Sweden did until 1967 when they changed. That must have been an interesting day.
I'm from the UK but have driven a fair amount in the US/Canada/Europe without a problem. I've only ever driven hire cars so it's natural to drive on the side that put you near the middle of the road. On bikes it's ok if there is other traffic about - you copy them. If it's quiet I have on occasions started out on the wrong side. Going round roundabouts the "wrong way" is strange.
The biggest problem for me was when I used to ride in France. They have the "priorite a droite" (priority to the right) rule. Traffic on the right at crossroads, entering roundabouts and sometimes (but not always) from side roads have priority. I think this is being phased out. Although in France it's hard to tell when someone pulls out in front of you if they had priority or if they just don't give a shit.
Yes, you nailed it. As long as you are seated near the middel of the road it should be fine :good:
Spraking of doing the roundabouts the wrong way, i drow in london a few years back, that throwed me a bit :crazy: