Happy New Year! Swifty here, wishing all a Happy New Year. My New Years resolution is to join the FJ forum to gain from your insights, talk with fellow riders, owners, and wrenchers. I have a new to me 1986 FJ1200, with only 3100 miles. It has not run in perhaps 15-20 years. I got it from a friend whose brother had it and dropped it twenty years ago. Unfortunately he got sick and died before he could fix it. It has sat in a garage along with many other bikes waiting for repair. The family liquidated all his bikes, and I was fortunate to see this FJ1200 in the back of the garage, and took it home with me.
I have changed to oil, pulled the carbs for cleaning, and checked the tank, which is clean. It has a little bit of surface scratches and a couple cracks in the fairing on the right side fairing and chin cowl.
I would like to refurbish the bike to its original condition. I would appreciate any insights you all might have. Where I can get a new chin cowl, or how to fix this one. What else I should do prior to starting, running the bike. I plan on cleaning the carbs, and cleaning, flush and inspect the brake calipers, master cylinders. Thank you for any advice you may have. I have been working on bikes as a hobby for a number of years now.
I am located in south west New Hampshire.
Thanks for listening,
Swifty
Hi Swifty,
Happy New Year. Congrats on saving the FJ from the barn.
What to do.......
Clean the carbs, get the "socket head screw & O-ring kit" from Randy at rpmracingca.com to start. That will also give you a step by step description of what and how to do it. You can get some pics of the procedure here in the files section too.
Before you ride it again -
Change the oil and filter.
Replace your fuel and vacuum lines (take pics so you get the orientation correct)
Replace the brake lines with SS brake lines. The OEM lines on your bike are way too old to be used safely.
Replace the brake and clutch fluid - flush the lines and calipers with new fluid once and then refill with clean new fluid.
Replace the tires. Yes, I know they look like new, but they are OLD, and cracked, and hard as iron with grip to match - Replace them
You will probably (almost certain) also have to replace the battery.
Wash, clean, and lubricate everything you can get to.
Ask on this list for someone local to you to help you balance your carbs.
Check your fuel tank petcock carefully. Safety wire it if needed.
The chin cowl is difficult to find, search Ebay. If it can be repaired, that may be your best option. Learn to plastic weld.
Harbor Freight has some cheap plastic welders
There is more you could do to the bike, but that will get you started.
rpmracingca.com is a good and reasonably priced source for most parts, and Randy is an active member here.
In addition to what Arnie has already posted. With the bike sitting for 2+ decades. I would also consider replacing the fork seals and purchasing a New rear shock from Randy at RPM.
+1 on finding an almost new FJ.
Fred
OK Swifty her again. Thanks to all for the advice.
So, here goes...
Here is my 1986 FJ1200 as it is now.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_25_38.jpeg)
New Years Eve 2013....
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_38_48.jpeg)
http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_45_41_2.jpeg (http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_45_41_2.jpeg)
http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_45_41_1.jpeg (http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_45_41_1.jpeg)
http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_45_40_0.jpeg (http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_45_40_0.jpeg)
http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/thumb_3869_31_12_13_7_45_42_3.jpeg (http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/thumb_3869_31_12_13_7_45_42_3.jpeg)
http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/thumb_3869_31_12_13_7_45_42_5.jpeg (http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/thumb_3869_31_12_13_7_45_42_5.jpeg)
http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/thumb_3869_31_12_13_7_45_42_4.jpeg (http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/thumb_3869_31_12_13_7_45_42_4.jpeg)
Here's the last three pics full size...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_45_42_3.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_45_42_4.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_31_12_13_7_45_42_5.jpeg)
I'll update this on what Iv'e found and as the project progresses.
C'yall next year!!!
Swifty
Let's see what it say's here.....
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/whiterabbit30/DSC04810.jpg)
Yup! Just change the oil. :rofl2:
Swifty,
What a great find and a fine looking FJ she is!
Keep up with the pics as you get her all cleaned up and back in spec.
Cap'n Ron. . .
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
January 2, 2014
Swifty here, I must thank you all again for the inspiration. They say that if you tell someone your goals, you are more likely to succeed. Thank you for your support!
Anyway, first thing on the list; change the oil. Here's what it looked like. Still new? Changed it anyway.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/medium_3869_02_01_14_1_31_52_0.jpeg)
Here are the plugs. They look like they are the originals. With only 2143 miles I'm going to treat this as a new bike break in maintenance!
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/medium_3869_02_01_14_1_31_53_1.jpeg)
C'ya later,
Swifty
Two things to be aware of:
You're missing a large thin washer that is hopefully still stuck to the rubber grommet on the oil filter element.
Be very careful on the filter housing "drain bolt" when you put it back together. It will strip really easily. If you get it back in and all sealed up, never remove it again.
Or.......Just get a spin on filter adapter from RPM and be done with it......
Judging by the condition of paint on your oil filter housing, I would bet you a jelly donut that your clutch slave is leaking...
Here are a few items you may be interested in to give the new to you FJ years of reliable service.
Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild kit.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AS%2FK&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AS%2FK&cat=39)
Clutch Slave Cylinder if your OEM Slave is corroded
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3Aslavecyl (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3Aslavecyl)
Spin-on Oil Filter Adaptor
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=spinonfilteradapter&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=spinonfilteradapter&cat=39)
Spin-on Oil Filter
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SpinOnOilFilter (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SpinOnOilFilter)
Spin-on Oil Filter Magnet
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=OFM&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=OFM&cat=39)
Fred
That large thin washer - is it important ? I dont have one , what does it do ? And yes the spin on adaptor is on the list
Quote from: stua1959 on January 03, 2014, 07:06:43 AM
That large thin washer - is it important ? I dont have one , what does it do ? And yes the spin on adaptor is on the list
I would recommend you get another washer. Looks like it provides a bearing surface for the spring. The washer is fairly thick so it probably provides some small preload for the spring. It is 2 to 3 dollar item from Yamaha or RPM. If it wasn't required Yamaha would have not installed it. The filter, what ever type you use is in the heart of the motor. IMO don't leave parts out. :good2:
Don't pinch the side stand wire when you reinstall the housing. It is easy to get trapped under the housing and housing O ring.
Two of the best convenience items that I have done to my bike is the spin on oil filter and the UniPod air filters. I do all my own service work. When you convert to a spin on filter you eliminate the spring, washer, inside filter, o ring, housing, bolt, drain screw and the chance of pinching your side stand wire. It makes oil changes a lot less messy and quicker. :morning1:
George
I went years without that washer, did not know it was supposed to be there till I saw it in a diagram. I could have bought a new washer but I got the RPM spin-on adapter instead. Way better than stock. And no more pinched wire causing leaks.
I think the main use for the washer is to keep the spring from pushing the filter's rubber grommet out of position which would allow unfiltered oil past the filter.
Quote from: aviationfred on January 02, 2014, 05:33:28 PM
Here are a few items you may be interested in to give the new to you FJ years of reliable service.
Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild kit.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AS%2FK&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AS%2FK&cat=39)
Clutch Slave Cylinder if your OEM Slave is corroded
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3Aslavecyl (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3Aslavecyl)
Spin-on Oil Filter Adaptor
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=spinonfilteradapter&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=spinonfilteradapter&cat=39)
Spin-on Oil Filter
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SpinOnOilFilter (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SpinOnOilFilter)
Spin-on Oil Filter Magnet
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=OFM&cat=39 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=OFM&cat=39)
Fred
Swifty here, thanking you for the info and links. So here's the status of the oil filter.
Repainted Oil Filter cover due to.... you guessed it clutch slave cylinder leak!
Re-installed filter, no leaks from filter drain screw (note to self luckily not stripped).
Looked closely for pinched wires...."pheewww, missed it by that much"
Spin on filter and adapter on wish list with rpm for next oil change.
Note: have not started engine yet so not sure if filter will leak with proper oil pressure?
Here's some pics...
Repainted and installed
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_05_01_14_10_19_29_0.jpeg)
Wire's were not pinched
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_05_01_14_10_19_29_1.jpeg)
Question:
What is the red plastic in the sprocket?
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_05_01_14_10_19_30_2.jpeg)
C'ya
Swifty
Whatever you do, put the slave cylinder back on before you leak-test the oil filter... or at least make sure the cat is in a safe place. :biggrin:
Quote from: Swifty on January 05, 2014, 10:31:21 AM
Question:
What is the red plastic in the sprocket?
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/6/3869_05_01_14_10_19_30_2.jpeg)
That is possibly noise damping material, I had a chunk of black plastic fall out when I changed my front sprocket. Randy said the factory installed it to reduce noise. Kind of ironic though. They drill out sprockets like that to reduce the weight (lightening holes), and then add some weight back to it.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 02, 2014, 05:14:29 PM
Or.......Just get a spin on filter adapter from RPM and be done with it......
Judging by the condition of paint on your oil filter housing, I would bet you a jelly donut that your clutch slave is leaking...
Pat,
Swifty here, thanks for your guess of clutch leaking, you win a jelly doughnut!
Anyway, the spin on is on my wish list for the next oil change.
Next on my list is the clutch slave rebuild. I'm guessing the brake and clutch masters will need it too.
I saw a recommendation to replace rubber hoses, not a bad idea, these look ok. I think the bikes been stored inside.
The tires have a 1995 date code, they look great, still have the "nubs".
Thanks for your advice.
Wishing I was in California about now!
Keep the rubber side down,
Swifty
Quote from: Swifty on January 08, 2014, 04:26:27 PM
The tires have a 1995 date code, they look great, still have the "nubs".
Even though the tires have the molding nubs and may have tread that has very little miles. You have 19 year old tires. The rubber will not have the same pliability as they did when brand new. IMO They should be replaced before you ride the bike.
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on January 08, 2014, 05:00:43 PM
Quote from: Swifty on January 08, 2014, 04:26:27 PM
The tires have a 1995 date code, they look great, still have the "nubs".
Even though the tires have the molding nubs and may have tread that has very little miles. You have 19 year old tires. The rubber will not have the same pliability as they did when brand new. IMO They should be replaced before you ride the bike.
Fred
+1
Same for the OEM brake lines.
Quote from: not a lib on January 08, 2014, 05:29:24 PM
Quote from: aviationfred on January 08, 2014, 05:00:43 PM
Quote from: Swifty on January 08, 2014, 04:26:27 PM
The tires have a 1995 date code, they look great, still have the "nubs".
Even though the tires have the molding nubs and may have tread that has very little miles. You have 19 year old tires. The rubber will not have the same pliability as they did when brand new. IMO They should be replaced before you ride the bike.
Thanks guys. Any recommendations for tires. Not a real aggressive rider.
Fred
+1
Same for the OEM brake lines.
With stock wheels, many members have had good results with Avon Azaro AV45 front and AV46 rear.
Fred